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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:ere is a decent explanation of a cat: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalytic_converter Thanks. I checked today, and it is definitely oil, and it looks like it's coming out of the exhaust and spraying from the exhaust joint. Is it possible that there was too much oil?
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May 20, 2009 02:21
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I was fiddling with the bike earlier and I notice my gear shift is a bit loose. I try tightening up the bolt holding it in to no avail. I took it off(And snapped the bolt. Damnit.) and I find this. How on Earth would you wear a groove like that? Theres no scratches or anything on the end so it wasn't dropped. Did someone take a grinder to it or something? I don't think it's something to be fixed right away, it's more of a "what the gently caress?" orthod0ks posted:Thanks. I checked today, and it is definitely oil, and it looks like it's coming out of the exhaust and spraying from the exhaust joint. Is it possible that there was too much oil? I have seen that happen with some of our smaller equipment at work(Generators, trash pumps etc) so it's possible. vvvEdit: You probably know a lot more then I do then. I just throw gas in, make sure it runs and has oil. Another edit: Damnit, and I just noticed you answered my question too! Thanks. Chairon fucked around with this message at 03:32 on May 20, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 03:22
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It's made that way, so the pinch-bolt will fit no matter where the lever is aligned on the shaft. Have no fear. Take a hacksaw and widen the slot on the lever; the bolt will pull the "ends" tighter. Chairon posted:smaller equipment at work(Generators, trash pumps etc) I fix that stuff for a living (not that anyone cares). orthod0ks posted:Thanks. I checked today, and it is definitely oil, and it looks like it's coming out of the exhaust and spraying from the exhaust joint. Is it possible that there was too much oil? Have you checked to make sure it's not overfull?* PO may have overfilled it, carb may have overflowed into the engine**, or if it was on its side for any length of time, oil could've found its way into a cylinder. Keep an eye on the oil level, and put a few miles on it. It should go away--eventually. The exhaust doesn't get hot enough to burn it, so it has to blow out. *Like Shlomo said, more likely to burn/smoke. **Manual petcock? Do you shut it off when you stop? Dagen H fucked around with this message at 03:54 on May 20, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 03:29
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Bob Morales posted:Sounds like the clutch basket to me. How many miles on it? Like 11k, but the noise is coming from the opposite side of the bike as the clutch.
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May 20, 2009 03:44
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Chairon posted:I was fiddling with the bike earlier and I notice my gear shift is a bit loose. I try tightening up the bolt holding it in to no avail. I took it off(And snapped the bolt. Damnit.) and I find this. Thats how they are from the factory. If you look, the bolt that goes through the kickstarter protrudes into the space for the kickshaft. Its basically to keep the kickstarter from rattling off the bike when it gets loose.
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May 20, 2009 04:01
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So im going to change the fork seals on my 1981 GS 450EX and the clymer manual i have doesn't have my model with the fork oil level. The book only seems to have the levels after 1982. What are my options? Should i try and find the Haynes manual and hope its in their?
Lunchb0x fucked around with this message at 06:20 on May 20, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 04:10
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159ml per fork according to this page. http://www.suzukicycles.org/GS-series/GS450E-S_specs.shtml Does that sound similar to the amounts for the other years in your book?
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May 20, 2009 05:07
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BotchedLobotomy posted:159ml per fork according to this page. http://www.suzukicycles.org/GS-series/GS450E-S_specs.shtml They run from 143cc to 187cc. If i go somewhere in the middle will my forks explode?
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May 20, 2009 06:22
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Lunchb0x posted:So im going to change the fork seals on my 1981 GS 450EX and the clymer manual i have doesn't have my model with the fork oil level. The book only seems to have the levels after 1982. What are my options? Should i try and find the Haynes manual and hope its in their? Have you tried the film trick yet? If not give it a go.
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May 20, 2009 08:14
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Bob Morales posted:Sounds like the clutch basket to me. How many miles on it? Last night I tore the bike apart and inspected the exhaust header flanges, chain tension, rear tire alignment, and even did a quick drive around the neighborhood trying to locate and identify the noise. Even without a helmet covering my ears, without the fairings on the bike doesnt make the noise. I guess some piece of plastic is vibrating to all hell, making a VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV sound as I drive down the road in certain rpm ranges. I think the fix for this is going to be wearing my earplugs more often 
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May 20, 2009 16:47
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Chairon posted:
I found this kind of hilarious. Not in a mean way! Note that the inside of your kickstarter where that shaft goes through is also splined.
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May 20, 2009 17:29
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dietcokefiend posted:Last night I tore the bike apart and inspected the exhaust header flanges, chain tension, rear tire alignment, and even did a quick drive around the neighborhood trying to locate and identify the noise. Even without a helmet covering my ears, without the fairings on the bike doesnt make the noise. I guess some piece of plastic is vibrating to all hell, making a VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV sound as I drive down the road in certain rpm ranges. I think the fix for this is going to be wearing my earplugs more often Leave the fairings off 
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May 20, 2009 17:44
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n8r posted:Have you tried the film trick yet? If not give it a go. I bought all new seal, dust cover and o rings. Not a leaking problem just time to replace the oil and seals and cant find the right amount of oil.
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May 20, 2009 18:18
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bobula posted:I found this kind of hilarious. Not in a mean way! I think he meant the smooth groove in the center of the shaft.
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May 20, 2009 19:10
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A friend of mine lost the key for his '85 Honda GL500. I know crap-all about ignition systems. How hard is this going to be to resolve?
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May 20, 2009 19:44
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OrangeFurious posted:A friend of mine lost the key for his '85 Honda GL500. I know crap-all about ignition systems. How hard is this going to be to resolve? Depends. I'm assuming you mean 1981-83 GL500 since they didn't make the 500 after 83. If the key and ignition is coded then you'll be able to get a replacement key by looking at the number on the ignition lock cylinder and then searching around eBay and such. If it isn't coded then you can either get an entirely new ignition switch or call a locksmith. A new cylinder that might fit is available here for $30: http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Honda-GL1000-GL1000-CBX-CX500-Ignition-Switch-Assembly?sc=12&category=52495
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May 20, 2009 20:19
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8ender posted:Depends. I'm assuming you mean 1981-83 GL500 since they didn't make the 500 after 83. If the key and ignition is coded then you'll be able to get a replacement key by looking at the number on the ignition lock cylinder and then searching around eBay and such. That's exactly what I needed. In retrospect, I think it's an 82. I'm quite fond of that bike.
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May 20, 2009 22:48
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How slippery is cut grass to ride on? I've been avoiding it every time I come across it (pretty often in the summer when riding around the farms) thinking it'd be slippery, but I'm not sure if I should worry about it or not.
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May 21, 2009 00:20
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Uthor posted:How slippery is cut grass to ride on? I've been avoiding it every time I come across it (pretty often in the summer when riding around the farms) thinking it'd be slippery, but I'm not sure if I should worry about it or not. Wet or dry? If you are careful and you aren't riding something super heavy I dont think it would be a problem. The few times I have driven my zx600 over my front lawn I didn't notice any feeling like it was going to slip out from under me. I dont know if I would try booking it at like 40 though.
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May 21, 2009 00:36
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dietcokefiend posted:Wet or dry? If you are careful and you aren't riding something super heavy I dont think it would be a problem. The few times I have driven my zx600 over my front lawn I didn't notice any feeling like it was going to slip out from under me. I dont know if I would try booking it at like 40 though. It's freshly cut grass all over the road. It would be slightly damp until it dries out, I imagine. I'm just mostly worried about hitting it in a corner, though I avoid most of it in straight lines. I treat it like wet leaves, currently, but I have to worry about it all year round instead of just the fall.
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May 21, 2009 01:05
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Uthor posted:It's freshly cut grass all over the road. It would be slightly damp until it dries out, I imagine. I'm just mostly worried about hitting it in a corner, though I avoid most of it in straight lines. I treat it like wet leaves, currently, but I have to worry about it all year round instead of just the fall. Hahahaha well cut grass all over a road is another topic entirely. There is a road that I like to ride on that gets 2 corners covered in grass from some asshat mowing there lawn. Every single time the rear tire starts to get a slipping feeling as I go over it.
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May 21, 2009 02:49
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dietcokefiend posted:Hahahaha well cut grass all over a road is another topic entirely. There is a road that I like to ride on that gets 2 corners covered in grass from some asshat mowing there lawn. Every single time the rear tire starts to get a slipping feeling as I go over it. K. I'll continue avoiding it, then. Thanks. Everyone here seems to just push yard waste on the street. There's a scenic drive near me full of expensive houses and their idea of raking the leaves is blowing them into the road. I don't expect people to bag grass when they live on a farm in the boonies, however.
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May 21, 2009 03:05
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dietcokefiend posted:Wet or dry? If you are careful and you aren't riding something super heavy I dont think it would be a problem. The few times I have driven my zx600 over my front lawn I didn't notice any feeling like it was going to slip out from under me. I dont know if I would try booking it at like 40 though. *test-rides re-carbureted Nighthawk in yard, does a wicked tank-slapper*
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May 21, 2009 10:18
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Dammit, my bike quit charging again. I knew right away by the fading dash lights, almost made it home. Stator output tested ok, going to test the rectifier now. But on the last check it was actually charging. What are the symptoms of a dying battery? I really hope it's just the battery. After two hours on charging it was just 12.1-ish, where earlier it was 12.5 after just one hour. Bike idles at 11.8V and as right before I disconnected the R/R it went to low 13s at 5000rpm.
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May 21, 2009 16:08
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Ola posted:Dammit, my bike quit charging again. I knew right away by the fading dash lights, almost made it home. You ought to check your discharge with the bike running and not (but key on) in order to make sure there isn't something draining it.
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May 21, 2009 16:16
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Ola posted:Dammit, my bike quit charging again. I knew right away by the fading dash lights, almost made it home. Sounds like the battery to me. It's either the R/R or the battery, and it sounds like the battery just isn't taking a charge anymore.
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May 21, 2009 16:23
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R/R checks out perfectly as well. Gonna check for mystery drains, double check stator output and voltage drop between r/r and battery, but otherwise it looks like an open and shut case. Phew!
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May 21, 2009 16:38
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Lunchb0x posted:I bought all new seal, dust cover and o rings. Not a leaking problem just time to replace the oil and seals and cant find the right amount of oil. There really is no good reason to replace seals that are still working fine. You're just creating a lot more work for yourself. Just pull the forks, dump out the old oil and refill them to the proper level.
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May 21, 2009 17:11
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I have my problems sorted out on the GSXR. It wasn't the battery, the speed sensor is dead AND there is corrosion in the wiring harness connection that leads to the front end of the bike. What is odd is they both surfaced at nearly the exact same time. I cleaned the corrosion out of the connection terminal and the bike's dash does not reset now. I took the speed sensor out of the bike and it is scar'd up for some reason, I cleaned it and cleaned it's connections to the wiring harness but it still doesn't work. I had the battery tested at the batteries plus down the street and they told me 100% the battery is good. Also it is in fact not a factory unit as I once thought. The PO had jerry-rigged a connector for the positive terminal block instead of going and getting the proper hardware, so I fixed that as well. I am sooooo done buying used vehicles.
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May 21, 2009 18:12
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n8r posted:There really is no good reason to replace seals that are still working fine. You're just creating a lot more work for yourself. Just pull the forks, dump out the old oil and refill them to the proper level. So it not good to do service at the recommend time is what your saying? Do you skip on maintenance and just wait for poo poo to break? And i got new springs for the front to so why would i not change the seals since im already taking them apart. The whole point of the post was trying to find a proper level since the manual didn't have my exact model.
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May 21, 2009 18:17
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Lunchb0x posted:So it not good to do service at the recommend time is what your saying? Do you skip on maintenance and just wait for poo poo to break? And i got new springs for the front to so why would i not change the seals since im already taking them apart. The whole point of the post was trying to find a proper level since the manual didn't have my exact model. If the forks are right side up, which they are, then getting to the seals requires a lot more disassembly than you'll be doing when you pull the forks. n8r is completely right, there's no reason to take poo poo apart if it's working fine. If your seals aren't leaking, don't bother tearing the entire front end apart just to fix that. Pull the forks, dump the oil, put in new oil, drop the springs in the top, and reassemble them. The seals have one job: Stop oil from leaking out of the forks. If you're not leaking oil, there is absolutely no reason to replace them. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:24 on May 21, 2009 |
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May 21, 2009 18:21
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Lunchb0x posted:So it not good to do service at the recommend time is what your saying? Do you skip on maintenance and just wait for poo poo to break? And i got new springs for the front to so why would i not change the seals since im already taking them apart. The whole point of the post was trying to find a proper level since the manual didn't have my exact model. While I wont say to not do the seals, since after replacing mine I realized how easy how easy it was (with the right tools takes maybe 5 minutes per fork with them removed), seals don't generally have maintenance schedule outside of "replace when leaking". Also you can replace the springs on most forks without dealing with the bushings or fork seals (most bikes you can swap springs without even removing the forks from the triples either).
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May 21, 2009 18:22
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Changed my oil while I was at it, studied the filter up close and could see slivers of metal in there.  It wasn't much, maybe four or five tiny particles in each paper fold. Should there definitely be none of this or is it normal? Maybe the cheap synthetic is bad?Didn't change the filter on the last oil change so the current filter had about 4000 miles on it.
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May 21, 2009 18:28
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Ola posted:Changed my oil while I was at it, studied the filter up close and could see slivers of metal in there. What sort of metal was it? Magnetic? Automotive manual transmissions frequently shed material over time (most use magnetic drain plugs to catch this) has gears mesh together and wear. Motorcycles have the engine and transmission sharing the same oil, so I would only say it might be normal to see some of that over time. How big of particles are we talking about though. Small enough where you only notice the sparkly, or big like grains of sand?
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May 21, 2009 18:54
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dietcokefiend posted:While I wont say to not do the seals, since after replacing mine I realized how easy how easy it was (with the right tools takes maybe 5 minutes per fork with them removed), seals don't generally have maintenance schedule outside of "replace when leaking". Also you can replace the springs on most forks without dealing with the bushings or fork seals (most bikes you can swap springs without even removing the forks from the triples either). I have a friend who has done them multiple times and said it would only take maybe 10min a fork so i didn't see the harm since i was already opening them up for the fork springs. But im just worried about getting the right oil level and how that will effect the bike and forks.
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May 21, 2009 19:06
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Lunchb0x posted:I have a friend who has done them multiple times and said it would only take maybe 10min a fork so i didn't see the harm since i was already opening them up for the fork springs. But im just worried about getting the right oil level and how that will effect the bike and forks. Google up your particular forks to see if anyone has ran into trouble with the bushings binding together during the standard removal. If they are known to slip under eachother using the slide-hammer method, you will probably junk both inner and outer bushings in the process, adding some parts to the repair process. That is basically the only risk when it comes to replacing fork seals.
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May 21, 2009 19:08
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dietcokefiend posted:Google up your particular forks to see if anyone has ran into trouble with the bushings binding together during the standard removal. If they are known to slip under eachother using the slide-hammer method, you will probably junk both inner and outer bushings in the process, adding some parts to the repair process. That is basically the only risk when it comes to replacing fork seals. Ok, ill check up on that. Thanks
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May 21, 2009 19:11
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dietcokefiend posted:What sort of metal was it? Magnetic? Automotive manual transmissions frequently shed material over time (most use magnetic drain plugs to catch this) has gears mesh together and wear. Motorcycles have the engine and transmission sharing the same oil, so I would only say it might be normal to see some of that over time. How big of particles are we talking about though. Small enough where you only notice the sparkly, or big like grains of sand? Like powdery sand I suppose. One piece was a thin sliver, I guess 1 mm long. I'm going to think about sending an oil sample for analysis. Partly for fun science, partly to keep an eye on development. Anyone ever do this? It might sound like paranoid overthinking, but it would be a bit cool too.
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May 21, 2009 19:37
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Ola posted:Like powdery sand I suppose. One piece was a thin sliver, I guess 1 mm long. I'm going to think about sending an oil sample for analysis. Partly for fun science, partly to keep an eye on development. I have done it on my car before. Cool part is they can narrow down what components are wearing, since the metal composition is different between say forged rods, bearings, piston rings, and gear assemblies.
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May 21, 2009 19:47
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Ola posted:Like powdery sand I suppose. One piece was a thin sliver, I guess 1 mm long. I'm going to think about sending an oil sample for analysis. Partly for fun science, partly to keep an eye on development. I've done this on almost every change on my 599. I like the  .
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May 21, 2009 20:04
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