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tayl0r posted:I have a 93 Yamaha Virage 535. I bought it a couple of weeks ago and only rode it a few times since I was still waiting on getting my gear. I finally took it for a longer ride yesterday and I don't feel like I'm getting all the power I should have. When I took the MSF class I rode a little 250 and it felt just as powerful as this bike. This sounds really dumb, but make absolutely sure sure you're in 1st gear when taking off. This is what my bike would do if I were trying to start off in second (I can still get going if I feather the clutch enough). If you're a gear too high all the time your bike will get annoyed with you.
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May 23, 2009 21:36
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I have 1988 suzuki katana for starters. It was in bad need of an oil change so that was my project for today. After assembling all the tools I needed I went to work. Now it took a while and some trickery to get the drain bolt out - this was not a good sign. Drained all the oil and went to put the bolt back in and it doesn't go it. I can tighten it with my fingers then when I try to wrench it it must jump threads and gets loose again. I can't seem to get the bolt back in. The bolt itself looks to be in fine condition so this makes me think the oil pan is having problem. My question is do I have any options/how screwed am I? I'm thinking of taking the bike to a dealership to get looked at but I can't exactly afford that and I don't have a truck to take it in.
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May 24, 2009 01:30
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Cmdr. Shepard posted:I can only ride my Ninja 250 for about an hour before my rear end gets really sore. Is this typical for a cheap bike like that? Are there after-market seats or something I could buy? I was hoping I'd build up a sort of immunity to the uncomfortable seat after riding for a season but I didn't, and rides over an hour are almost painful. I can sort of solve the problem by stopping and taking a break and walking around for a bit every 45 minutes. This is next on my agenda, I went on a 4 hour ride today on my 250 and my rear end was killing me by the halfway point.
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May 24, 2009 02:16
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BronYrAur posted:I have 1988 suzuki katana for starters. It was in bad need of an oil change so that was my project for today. After assembling all the tools I needed I went to work. Now it took a while and some trickery to get the drain bolt out - this was not a good sign. Drained all the oil and went to put the bolt back in and it doesn't go it. I can tighten it with my fingers then when I try to wrench it it must jump threads and gets loose again. I can't seem to get the bolt back in. The bolt itself looks to be in fine condition so this makes me think the oil pan is having problem. My question is do I have any options/how screwed am I? I'm thinking of taking the bike to a dealership to get looked at but I can't exactly afford that and I don't have a truck to take it in. Uh probably a stripped oil pan, you can either make the hole bigger or buy a new one iirc.
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May 24, 2009 03:46
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teknicolor posted:Uh probably a stripped oil pan, you can either make the hole bigger or buy a new one iirc. There are oil pan fix kits for cars - I have no idea if they would work on a bike, but it would be better than replacing the pan.
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May 24, 2009 04:17
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orthod0ks posted:You guys are gonna get sick of me... Probably a stuck float. Tap the hell out of the carbs with the base of a screwdriver and it may stop leaking fuel. The oil level should not be completely full, it should be in the middle of the sight glass. If you can rock the bike back and forth and the level of oil never goes below the top of the sight glass, it's still overfilled.
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May 24, 2009 05:19
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BronYrAur posted:I have 1988 suzuki katana for starters. It was in bad need of an oil change so that was my project for today. After assembling all the tools I needed I went to work. Now it took a while and some trickery to get the drain bolt out - this was not a good sign. Drained all the oil and went to put the bolt back in and it doesn't go it. I can tighten it with my fingers then when I try to wrench it it must jump threads and gets loose again. I can't seem to get the bolt back in. The bolt itself looks to be in fine condition so this makes me think the oil pan is having problem. My question is do I have any options/how screwed am I? I'm thinking of taking the bike to a dealership to get looked at but I can't exactly afford that and I don't have a truck to take it in. I have so much experience with this due to Ford's wonderful decision to put an aluminum oil pan in my car. There are several options, the one that will work for you is this: they sell rubber plugs that have a screw through the middle. You tighten the screw and it squeezes the plug until it seals your oil drain hole. I think I have a few left over. I will look for them. I found them in an auto parts store in California somewhere. It's made by a company that has a whole line of things like that. I remember the packaging being yellow with black letters. If you can't find that another option is boating supply stores. What you want is weep hole plugs I believe. That type doesn't have a screw, it's more of a toggle switch. The final option is retapping the hole. If you can get a good straight angle into the hole you can do it with the pan on the bike, otherwise you will likely have to remove the engine to get to it... good luck!
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May 24, 2009 06:15
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Z3n posted:Probably a stuck float. Tap the hell out of the carbs with the base of a screwdriver and it may stop leaking fuel. Excellent. I'll try this tomorrow. I can see the oil level move. It's below half when on the side stand, and only at the top when held up straight.
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May 24, 2009 06:17
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orthod0ks posted:Excellent. I'll try this tomorrow. I can see the oil level move. It's below half when on the side stand, and only at the top when held up straight.
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May 24, 2009 07:34
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The NonBornKing posted:I have so much experience with this due to Ford's wonderful decision to put an aluminum oil pan in my car. There are several options, the one that will work for you is this: they sell rubber plugs that have a screw through the middle. You tighten the screw and it squeezes the plug until it seals your oil drain hole. I think I have a few left over. I will look for them. I found them in an auto parts store in California somewhere. It's made by a company that has a whole line of things like that. I remember the packaging being yellow with black letters. That first one sounds perfect. I am trying a new bolt first, it's cheap and who knows is my thinking. But if you have any more information on these plug/screw things it would be much appreciated.
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May 24, 2009 08:01
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BronYrAur posted:I have 1988 suzuki katana for starters. It was in bad need of an oil change so that was my project for today. After assembling all the tools I needed I went to work. Now it took a while and some trickery to get the drain bolt out - this was not a good sign. Drained all the oil and went to put the bolt back in and it doesn't go it. I can tighten it with my fingers then when I try to wrench it it must jump threads and gets loose again. I can't seem to get the bolt back in. The bolt itself looks to be in fine condition so this makes me think the oil pan is having problem. My question is do I have any options/how screwed am I? I'm thinking of taking the bike to a dealership to get looked at but I can't exactly afford that and I don't have a truck to take it in. Find a place that will put a helicoil in for you. It's cheap (like $35 max, I'd think) and it replaces the threads with a steel coil in the original size so you don't have to mess around with different thread size BS.
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May 24, 2009 09:43
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Krakkles posted:Does your bike not have a max/min line or something? It should have an upper line which the oil should not be above when the bike is upright (not on sidestand) and a lower line which the oil should not be below. It does, but since it was overfull, it's hovering just over the full mark at the top of the window. Leaning it over, I can see the top level of the oil though.
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May 24, 2009 14:04
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bobula posted:Find a place that will put a helicoil in for you. It's cheap (like $35 max, I'd think) and it replaces the threads with a steel coil in the original size so you don't have to mess around with different thread size BS. I had a helicoil put in my car. It only held until the next oil change. After that they said another one wouldn't work. I'm not sure if that was specifically something wrong with my car, but it's worth a shot.
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May 24, 2009 16:10
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That oil pan is probably cast aluminum, so just replace it.
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May 24, 2009 16:21
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BronYrAur posted:That first one sounds perfect. I am trying a new bolt first, it's cheap and who knows is my thinking. But if you have any more information on these plug/screw things it would be much appreciated. First of all, be careful with trying the bolts. Every time the bolt jumps the threads you are wearing a little bit more of the threads away. I've looked everywhere and I can't find my old plugs; my car died two years ago and I think I might have given them to the guy I sold it to. With rubber plugs there are three options. One has an expandable end that slips through the hole and then catches on the inside of the pan. These suck, they don't seal all that well and they can never be removed. The next type is like a but plug. I've never tried this kind before. The other type is the one I mentioned above with the screw through the middle, that's what I had and they worked great. I can't seem to find anybody that sells them online, but they do exist. Call around to all the local auto parts stores and tell them you've got a stripped oil pan bolt and ask if they have rubber replacement plugs. They'll know what you're talking about, this is a common occurrence.
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May 24, 2009 16:27
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I've been smelling burning clutch sometimes from my VFR. At first I thought it was me, as the bike seems to drop rpms fast, making my shifting kinda crappy, but cruising in first gear through traffic the other day I caught a wiff of it again without even shifting. My understanding is that the clutch is oil bathed, so checking my oil level is that same as checking trans fluid cause it's all one, correct? If so the oil is up to the proper level. The bike just hit 7000 miles, could this be trouble?
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May 24, 2009 17:46
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If it's only happened in traffic, you might be smelling something from another vehicle. 
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May 24, 2009 17:57
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Ola posted:If it's only happened in traffic, you might be smelling something from another vehicle. Nah I've got down and smelt the bike after parking, it's definitely me.
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May 24, 2009 18:02
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The NonBornKing posted:First of all, be careful with trying the bolts. Every time the bolt jumps the threads you are wearing a little bit more of the threads away. Well I just struck out at all the local auto parts stores. The best they could come up with is an 'oversized bolt'. Any opinions on that route? BronYrAur fucked around with this message at 19:23 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 18:26
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BronYrAur posted:Well I just struck out at all the local auto parts stores. The best they could come up with is an 'oversized bolt'. Any opinions on that route? As long as it's tapped straight, you shouldn't have a problem doing this. Just go up to the very next size though. I think Katana oil plugs are like 14mm, so go 16. Don't get one that is longer than the original plug. Make sure you have a good sealing washer on the new one. Don't use a cheap non-hardened bolt. Make sure it has a skirt on the head and not just straight hex against the metal.
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May 24, 2009 19:38
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BronYrAur posted:Well I just struck out at all the local auto parts stores. The best they could come up with is an 'oversized bolt'. Any opinions on that route? I had problems getting any of the self-tapping/oversized bolts to go in because I couldn't get a straight line on my threads, you may have better luck. If you can't find any rubber plugs then you don't really have much choice. Just make sure you have a good straight line on it and push really hard with the drill. Where do you live? Maybe some helpful goon with an engine hoist could help you get the pan off to be re-tapped at a machine shop.
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May 24, 2009 19:50
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The NonBornKing posted:I had problems getting any of the self-tapping/oversized bolts to go in because I couldn't get a straight line on my threads, you may have better luck. If you can't find any rubber plugs then you don't really have much choice. Just make sure you have a good straight line on it and push really hard with the drill. I live in Winnipeg! It's a hole for biking as insurance is beyond expensive. Hopefully this goes well, I will report back.
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May 24, 2009 20:02
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I know a lot of individuals have the thought of if you drop a helmet from a few feet up and it hits a hard surface such as concrete or asphalt, then the helmet is no longer any good. Has there ever been any sort of research or study on the matter that someone can refer me to, or does everyone just parrot what they hear from others?
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May 24, 2009 20:31
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I'm all knowledgeable about stripped threads because I'm an idiot. As another example of my idiocy I managed to remove a part of my air filter housing that isn't supposed to be removed. There was this stretchy rubbery stuff that was sealing the connection between these two pieces. Anyone know of something I could get to replace that seal? It looked spray on but could be a liquid or gel of some form.
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May 24, 2009 20:42
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Hughmoris posted:I know a lot of individuals have the thought of if you drop a helmet from a few feet up and it hits a hard surface such as concrete or asphalt, then the helmet is no longer any good. Has there ever been any sort of research or study on the matter that someone can refer me to, or does everyone just parrot what they hear from others? http://vodpod.com/watch/1160709-jay-leno-the-arai-man about 8 minutes in
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May 24, 2009 20:45
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BronYrAur posted:I live in Winnipeg! It's a hole for biking as insurance is beyond expensive. Hopefully this goes well, I will report back. Well it's been about 25 minutes since I put in 1.5L of oil and there are not drips or seeps to speak of so far! Going to put the rest of the oil in and fire it up shortly. I am interested to know if there are any Winnipeg bike goons on here that are good at this mechanical stuff as I am most definitely not.
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May 24, 2009 20:47
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:drop it on the ground? it's fine. arai says so. You da man. I figured a lot of people were full of poo poo and just repeating whatever they were told. I'm keeping this video handy for future use. Thanks.
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May 24, 2009 20:56
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I'm shopping for a new bike. Problem is, I'm 6'5" with a 36" inseam. I just sold my GS 850 and it was okay, but I wouldn't call it the most comfortable bike. I've been reading a bunch of forums, and I've gotten good recommendations on bikes for tall riders, but the problem is that these are mostly new bikes -- my budget mostly allows for older bikes. Here's what I have so far on my list: Kawasaki KLR-650 Suzuki DL650 DL1000 SV1000 Bandit 600/1200 Katana 750 Yamaha FZ6 Honda 919 VFR800 Triumph Street 3 Speed 3 BMW F650 R1100/1150/R1200GS All recommended as fitting taller riders. Most of these are far out of my price range, except for maybe a Katana, VFR, or Vstrom. I have no real interest in off road. What I'm looking for are predecessors to these models that aren't on the list, like the TL1000S which is the predecessor to the SV1000, so I can expand my search. Also, any other recommendations or model lines that I haven't listed here. Finally, is the SV1000 significantly bigger than the 650? I sat on an SV650 and it felt cramped, although I would probably be able to make it fit if I changed to an adjustable rearset. The SV1000 has more power than I need, but if the fit is better, I don't mind. edit: I've left off things like the ZX-12R and the FZ1 because while I hear that they're quite big and comfortable, I wouldn't feel confident with the amount of power those bikes have. Uncle Ivan fucked around with this message at 21:28 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 21:14
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Z3n posted:Probably a stuck float. Tap the hell out of the carbs with the base of a screwdriver and it may stop leaking fuel. I did this, and it's leaking at a much slower rate, but that may because it's low on fuel now. Any other simple solutions I should try before taking it to the shop?
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May 24, 2009 23:59
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Uncle Ivan posted:TL1000S I'm not quite as tall as you (6'3") but that bike will be far too small for you. It's set up as a sport bike, and I found it cramped as all hell, even with bar risers. I'd suggest looking for the bike that I have - a Kawi ZR-7S. It's a good, tall, sport touring/standard, and generally sells for pretty reasonable used prices. The Z750/1000 also felt about the same fit as well. Oh, and the Triumph Scrambler, but that may be out of your price range/interest.
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May 25, 2009 01:27
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Uncle Ivan posted:
I'm 6'3" with a 32 inseam and the Street 3 is quite comfortable for me. The Speed 3 is a little small, but still pretty good.
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May 25, 2009 03:39
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Does anyone use bicycle computers to have a more accurate speedo? I'm tired of taking 10% off my indicated speed.
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May 25, 2009 17:22
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When I stopped into a Harley/Buell dealer, the Buells I sat on seemed really tall. Maybe check some of those out? I'm not sure which models they were (not the Blast or Ulysses, though). I'm 6'1", and have no trouble flatfooting both feet on my SV, and these seemed much taller.
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May 25, 2009 18:16
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Does anyone use bicycle computers to have a more accurate speedo? I'm tired of taking 10% off my indicated speed. When I wanted to confirm the speed on my bike (hey its actually reading 1mph slow) I used a Garmin Foretrex 101 strapped to the handlebar. Much better than any bicycle computer and it even tracks your location.
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May 25, 2009 23:14
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Uncle Ivan posted:Yep, you're right, it's a carb setup problem. It's a 1982 GS750, it has the rubber intake boots, they're old, but they're flexible enough that it shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, I figured out what the problem was today. I pulled the carbs to reclean everything and recheck the float levels, threw them back on. quote:I was able to get the bike started today, it was stumbling around 1000 rpm for several minutes, warming up. I noticed that as time went on, the revs went up to a maximum of about 3000. I gave it some throttle, it revved to about 6000 then tried to die. Kept running at about 3000, sounding not too bad. After a minute, started dropping revs, sputtering, I added more fuel. As the fuel filled the float bowls, the idle went up to 3000, then dropped back to 1000, stumbling. I pulled off the air filters, the bike kept running. quote:I'm going to recheck the float levels once I get a set of calipers, but they were pretty close to the spec of 22mm using a tape measure. quote:So, basically, it looks like the jetting is catastrophically rich. Only part that doesn't really make sense is that the bike was running and idling pretty well 6 months ago, I rode it around until it stopped starting in the winter which prompted me to clean the carbs. I guess it's possible that the carbs were just so clogged to poo poo that it made a normally super rich condition into just the right mixture. quote:The air filters are clean, so I'm pretty sure that's not the cause. Besides, it shouldnt keep running with the air filters off. quote:It would be nice to find a set of carbs or a set of jets somewhere cheap. Also the needle doesn't look like the Dynojet needle that I have on my GS850, so I'm thinking that the needle here might not match the jet size (130 would correspond to the Dynojet stage 3 kit for the 1982 750) Anyone have old GS parts lying around? Lunchb0x posted:So im going to change the fork seals on my 1981 GS 450EX and the clymer manual i have doesn't have my model with the fork oil level. The book only seems to have the levels after 1982. What are my options? Should i try and find the Haynes manual and hope its in their? Oil level is a tuning thing.
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May 26, 2009 00:35
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Ok, The 71 yamaha is nearly ready for rego..... The last major issue is the blinkers, More to the point the lack of a flasher can! So Im thinking a car unit. Do they use a Positive or negative return ?
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May 26, 2009 00:39
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Kaptainballistik posted:Ok, The 71 yamaha is nearly ready for rego..... I don't know what you have available to you in aussie land but around here we can get a neat kit like the one below: http://www.motovan.com/cat/2009moto_EN/images/0362.jpg Comes with signals, flasher, mounts, and a crappy switch. If you've already got the signals and switch then a regular automotive flasher should work just fine. I forget what Yamaha you have but if its a 6 volt system then you'll need to source a 6v flasher, which means its eBay time.
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May 26, 2009 01:56
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Its a 12V bike but the flasher unit I foind on ebay was allegedly for a 6volt At-1. So its all a bit wierd as AT-1's were 12v....
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May 26, 2009 03:46
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If its 12v then don't worry about it, just pick up any old cylinder style flasher from a local auto parts store. Strange though, I thought that AT-1 was 6v. I wouldn't put it past Yamaha of that era to have made a few models with a 6v system before quietly switching to 12v. 8ender fucked around with this message at 03:55 on May 26, 2009 |
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May 26, 2009 03:52
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maybe it's like the dumbass flasher relay on my guzzi which takes 12v in and puts 6v out?
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May 26, 2009 11:21
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