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I'm sick of wearing a backpack when I ride, at high speeds it sucks. What kind of aftermarket storage is available for a ninja 250 that doesn't mess up the aerodynamics of the bike? I'm looking to carry (at most) a few folders, a wallet, and a phone.
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May 28, 2009 20:45
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| # ? May 15, 2024 05:19 |
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Tank bag http://www.bikebandit.com/product/9277 Or tail bag http://www.bikebandit.com/product/18887 There's a zillion variants.
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May 28, 2009 20:55
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Oceanlife posted:I'm sick of wearing a backpack when I ride, at high speeds it sucks. What kind of aftermarket storage is available for a ninja 250 that doesn't mess up the aerodynamics of the bike? I'm looking to carry (at most) a few folders, a wallet, and a phone. I'd recommend saddle bags, as they're just too drat convenient. Though if you want something aerodynamic almost any tank bag will work for you, doubly so if you want to carry passengers, as a tank bag would rule that out.
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May 28, 2009 21:13
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Bungie the backpack to the seat.
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May 28, 2009 21:57
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Bike is a 04 Honda CBR600 F4i.. My bike makes a deep rattling/knocking type noise in the engine that isn't noticeable on start up, but once it gets warm I can feel it and hear it. I can't tell exactly when it's coming from I just notice it once in a while when riding. When I'm in neutral like sitting at a light and I hear it, it lessens when I pull the clutch lever in. I think it's done this since I bought the bike with 19,000 miles on it and now it has 30,000 miles and it doesn't seem to have changed. I'm suspecting clutch basket.. if I just let it go for a long time does that damage anything else? What exactly would the basket be banging against? I've changed the clutch plates on my Ninja 650r and that wasn't too hard, is the basket about the same?
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May 29, 2009 03:03
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Chris Knight posted:Bungie the backpack to the seat. I got a small dedicated riding "backpack" and it works infinitely better tied and bungied to the grab rail as compared to actually being work on the back. I can carry my bungie net in it, too, so I can actually haul a bit of stuff if I have to. Well, "haul" in bike terms, buy you get my meaning.
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May 29, 2009 03:07
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TheReverend posted:I'm thinking about getting a bike but I know very little about them. I kinda liked the Suzuki S40, but the tiny tank and single cylinder engine wouldn't have worked for my riding. The S50, C50, or M50 should all be good for beginners. Also in the same range are Honda Shadows, the smaller Yamaha/Star V Stars, or the Kawasaki Vulcan 500 or 900. I personally got the Vulcan 500 for the small size, high revving engine, and six speed transmission, but you should sit on them all to see what's comfortable.
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May 29, 2009 04:03
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I picked up a 1975 Honda CB500T a couple weeks back and just have a noob question about the idle. The guy I bought the bike from did a great job setting it up to ride, but I think he has the idle set too low. The Clymer manual for the bike says the idle should be set between 1k and 2k. Right now the needle bounces just at or over the 1k mark, but to me the engine always sounds like it's sputtering a little. Here's a short video of the bike being started, revved to 3k, and back to idle for a few seconds. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsLeAMGuBvE Am I just not used to a decent sounding idle, or should I tweak it a little?
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May 29, 2009 04:08
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Sounds pretty normal for an air cooled bike.
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May 29, 2009 04:11
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Agreeing that it sound normal however tachometers of that era were notoriously inaccurate at low rpms like that. My KZ650 should be around 1000rpm at idle but I find its happier at 1200-1300 on my tach. I suspect that number is closer to a real 1000 rpm. Either way unless you hear the cam chain slapping around I'd just leave it. Old air cooled engines make all sorts of worrying and awesome noises.
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May 29, 2009 05:45
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BigHustle posted:I picked up a 1975 Honda CB500T a couple weeks back and just have a noob question about the idle. Sounds okay to me, but you could up the idle a little (like to 1200 or 1500 rpms) and it would still be within normal idle range. It wouldn't likely help the bike at all, but it might make you feel better. 
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May 29, 2009 06:44
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OMGWTFWALLHACK posted:To be honest I've considered this but I don't want to get shavings everywhere in the body of the carb. It's still what I'll do if there isn't some awesome trick to it. Heating the thread area with a torch will help immensely when trying to get a stuck jet out. Make sure you do it!
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May 29, 2009 07:23
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8ender posted:Either way unless you hear the cam chain slapping around I'd just leave it. Old air cooled engines make all sorts of worrying and awesome noises. When I have my bike ideling, every 2 or 3 seconds or so theres a couple ping noises that happen... How to explain, hmm. Like: rumble rumble rumble ping ping ping ping rumble rumble rumble ping ping ping ping etc... (lord I feel silly) The engine is still rumbling away I just hear the ping over the top of it. When you said something about a chain it made me think that it could be something like that, miss-timed. What do you think it could be? Is it just my bike warming up or do I need to adjust something? Rebel 450.
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May 29, 2009 08:43
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tranten posted:Is it just my bike warming up or do I need to adjust something? How many miles is on it? If it goes away when warm I wouldn't worry about it. My bike makes ungodly cam chain noises while I sit there looking horrified until it warms up. Its normal for the KZ650. Now I don't know if its normal for a cold Rebel 450 but I do know that you've got an automatic tensioner, so short of pulling the valve cover and putting a new tensioner in there isn't much you can adjust. If the noise continues when hot then its probably worth taking a look. There was a Honda model that was infamous for making a pinging noise like that when the cam chain was stretched but I can't recall which one it was.
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May 29, 2009 12:04
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Well gently caress. I've been having some vacuum issues with my petcock, mostly because I replaced an old but perfectly good hose with a new but slightly too big one. It leaked at the carb socket and the last day I had to ride on prime as it wouldn't flow otherwise. Replaced the hose with a proper one today, used a pump and tested that the petcock flows on vacuum, doesn't flow on no vacuum and doesn't suck gas through the vacuum port. That fixed, I checked my oil, expecting it to be half full on the glass as it was when I changed the oil a few days ago. But no, it's way full. Pretty sure I can smell gas from the filler port as well, but it's not very obvious. Now, if prime for whatever reason caused gas to leak into my crankcase, is it a really bad, don't ride situation? Will it evaporate through the breather over some time? And shouldn't the gas float on top of the oil? The stuff in the glass is all oil-coloured, but perhaps the specific weights of oil and gas isn't that different. aventari posted:
Maybe it just needs a throttle body sync? If it was off it would cause vibrations and pulling the clutch would ease the load on the engine = less vibrations. Just a random thought.
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May 29, 2009 12:47
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Ola posted:Now, if prime for whatever reason caused gas to leak into my crankcase, is it a really bad, don't ride situation? Will it evaporate through the breather over some time? And shouldn't the gas float on top of the oil? Yes, you should change the oil before you ride. Some will evaporate, but not enough and the ability of the oil to do its job has been compromised. Gas is just a product of oil, so they'll mix together just fine
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May 29, 2009 13:29
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`Nemesis posted:Yes, you should change the oil before you ride. Ooops. Oh well, that valve noise is just like normal and I think I might have been stupid and checked the oil while the bike was on the center stand but not level. Will recheck after work. Also, I took a sample of my previous oil and I'm sending it in for analysis today. Will be fun! 
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May 29, 2009 15:37
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Ola posted:Well gently caress. I've been having some vacuum issues with my petcock, mostly because I replaced an old but perfectly good hose with a new but slightly too big one. It leaked at the carb socket and the last day I had to ride on prime as it wouldn't flow otherwise. Replaced the hose with a proper one today, used a pump and tested that the petcock flows on vacuum, doesn't flow on no vacuum and doesn't suck gas through the vacuum port. Ditch it and get a Golan or Pingel petcock.
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May 29, 2009 15:51
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The petcock works perfectly, it was my choice of vacuum hose which was bad. Speaking of that, if it overflowed on prime it should overflow with the bike running as well, shouldn't? The flow was pretty good when I hooked up a vacuum pump and a hose in a bottle. The floats have to seal just as much either way. So perhaps the oil is fine I'm just being all  
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May 29, 2009 16:10
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8ender posted:stuff K, gravy. I figured it wasn't something insane, I'll have a listen more closely one of these times when it's fully warmed up but I'm fairly certain it goes away. Got about 17500 miles on it.
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May 29, 2009 19:28
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tranten posted:When I have my bike ideling, every 2 or 3 seconds or so theres a couple ping noises that happen... How loud is it and what kind of gas do you put in it?
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May 29, 2009 19:38
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Doctor Zero posted:How loud is it and what kind of gas do you put in it? Not that loud. It's not so much a ping as sort of just a knock of some sort... I usually put the middle octane in... 89 I think. It goes 87, 89, 91 right? I'm a new owner and it's my first bike, should I be looking at some sort of additive or something?
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May 29, 2009 19:47
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tranten posted:Not that loud. It's not so much a ping as sort of just a knock of some sort... I usually put the middle octane in... 89 I think. It goes 87, 89, 91 right? I'm a new owner and it's my first bike, should I be looking at some sort of additive or something? You should run what the manufacturer recommends, which in your case is 87 octane gas according to the Rebel FAQ. It's possible that if you switch to regular it might go away, or be reduced. It's also possible switching to premium will make it go away too. Might as well run a tank of each and see if there's a change. A tank or two won't hurt you.
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May 29, 2009 21:02
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tranten, see if it's similar to the pre-sync idle in my video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asM3kQWPmLM It could just be that you need a sync. If you have two carbs that is.
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May 29, 2009 21:22
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aventari posted:Bike is a 04 Honda CBR600 F4i.. Actually I've been wondering what this could be on my bike as well, (Honda CBR600 F2). I notice it whenever it's warm, and it will go away when I put any pressure on the clutch. I wish I knew if this was normal, hopefully I can start up my F4i in due time to see if it makes the same noise! Also, would I would like to pull off my F4i's head when I pull the engine from the chassis, would I definitely have to replace the head gasket after removing the head at all?
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May 30, 2009 00:04
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Prelude Gundam posted:Also, would I would like to pull off my F4i's head when I pull the engine from the chassis, would I definitely have to replace the head gasket after removing the head at all? They are one time use. You might get away with not doing it but it's a bad idea. The bolts are also often one time use but I don't know about that particular engine.
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May 30, 2009 20:11
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Wow, more idle issues for me... I took the advice of Simkin and 8ender and left the idle the gently caress alone. This is the first day I've been able to take it out since I got it, since there was some motor vehicle commission fuckery to deal with. Anyway, I started the bike, ran to the gas station, filled up with 93 octane, and rode about 6 miles. I had no issues with the bike at stoplights. I stopped at a pizza place for a water break and 10 minutes later went to leave. The bike turns over just fine, but will not idle at all. I have to rev the throttle to get the bike to start and keep steady pressure on it over 2k or else it dies as if I'd hit the thumb switch to kill the engine. I limped it home (not fun for my first time out on the bike) and tried again after the bike sat for about 30 minutes, and still nothing. Any suggestions on what to do here? The bike is currently on the charger since the battery died from too many attempts at starting the fucker, so I have plenty of time to figure it out.
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May 30, 2009 21:24
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BigHustle posted:Wow, more idle issues for me... Did you leave the choke on?
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May 30, 2009 22:03
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Z3n posted:Did you leave the choke on? Nope. I haven't touched the choke. Until now, the bike started fine without it.
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May 30, 2009 22:06
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BigHustle posted:Nope. I haven't touched the choke. Until now, the bike started fine without it. drat, easiest thing to fix so it comes to mind first. Sounds like clogged pilots, honestly. Do you think there could be some crap in the tank or that could have caused this?
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May 30, 2009 22:08
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Z3n posted:drat, easiest thing to fix so it comes to mind first. Not that comes to mind. The tank is pristine on the inside and it's only been opened 2 or 3 times since I got the bike to check fuel levels. I'm always sure to make sure the tank is clean before opening it.
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May 30, 2009 22:12
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New tire time! I need something for some hard riding on a ninja 500. I'm going a bit nuts before my trip to California.
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May 30, 2009 22:36
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KidDynamite posted:New tire time! I need something for some hard riding on a ninja 500. I'm going a bit nuts before my trip to California. Pirelli Sport Demons work great on my 500
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May 31, 2009 00:33
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So whats the general consensus on mid to late 80s gpz 600s? I keep seeing them on craigslist and get this irrational desire to watch Top Gun and emulate pre-crazy Tom Cruise. (I know he rode a 900 in the movie.)
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May 31, 2009 08:33
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OK, now I have no clue what's going on with my bike. Yesterday I took it out on the road and it ran fine until I stopped for water. Then the bike wouldn't idle. I decided to whip out the Clymer manual the guy gave me with the bike, only to find out that it's for the 250/360cc Hondas of the same time period. I know that the engine is essentially the same, but the pictures don't match up. After some trial and error, I got the bike to idle this morning. The idle is slower than when I got the bike, but that's not a big deal. The problem is that every time I give it some throttle, it dies instantly. I have no idea what the hell to do now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uzxfRGlaTA
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May 31, 2009 17:43
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The guy I bought my VFR from said he only ever used WD-40 on the chain and it worked great. Is this good practice or should I buy some chain lube and slop it on?
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May 31, 2009 18:29
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Nerobro posted:It's never the float levels. Yeah, it did sound like an intake boot problem. I tried spraying carb cleaner around them, and it didn't do anything. I figured that wasn't a sensitive test, so I actually ordered new ones, and put them on. Didn't help. I can get the bike to start pretty consistently now. It will start, and idle, doesn't sound like a great idle, but it idles most of the time. If I give it some throttle, it will hesitatingly rev to around 4000-5000, then try to die. If I release the throttle, it will drop revs and stall. If I release the throttle, then give it a little more at around 1000, it will stumble, and go back to idling. This is the part that sounds EXACTLY like a vacuum leak, except I don't see how it can be. I had leaky O-rings on a previous bike, and it had the same symptom. If the engine revs up, then you drop the throttle, a lot of vacuum is generated and with a leak, the mixture would get too lean and the engine would stall. But I am positive I don't have an intake leak, at the boots at least. The diaphragms on the carbs are all fine as well. What else could be wrong? Uncle Ivan fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 31, 2009 |
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May 31, 2009 20:07
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Gnaghi posted:The guy I bought my VFR from said he only ever used WD-40 on the chain and it worked great. Is this good practice or should I buy some chain lube and slop it on? WD40 does a HORRIBLE job at lubing anything, period. Clean the thing off with a toothbrush and kerosene and take a rag with a pool of gear oil and rub it on. Get the chain nice and slick on all parts, then take a clean paper towel and wipe off all the excess pretty well.
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May 31, 2009 20:35
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dietcokefiend posted:WD40 does a HORRIBLE job at lubing anything, period. Clean the thing off with a toothbrush and kerosene and take a rag with a pool of gear oil and rub it on. Get the chain nice and slick on all parts, then take a clean paper towel and wipe off all the excess pretty well. Sounds good, think I'm gonna go do that right now.
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May 31, 2009 21:14
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Are tank bags as bad as bumper bras on a car? I want something to keep my tank looking nice on my new sv650.
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Jun 1, 2009 00:02
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