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dietcokefiend posted:Are tank bags as bad as bumper bras on a car? I want something to keep my tank looking nice on my new sv650. Well tank bags actually tend to scratch them up in my experience. If you're talking about tank protectors, yeah they look pretty dumb. I'd rather just take the tank off and repaint it in a few years then ride around with one of those.
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Jun 1, 2009 00:25
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Dropped my nina on the right side. Started back up again. Was riding back home on the freeway and noticed that id rev it, but nothing would happen... the engine would get louder but my speed remained the same. Got it to my buddies place. Had some water. Started up again fine. Died on a hill. Managed to get it started again (somehow). Made it to the top of the hill... died again. Walked it home. It will start if I put the choke on and leave it. Well it will idle, but if I try to rev the throttle or take off the choke it dies. Before it died on the way home, I noticed that I'd be in first (or any gear) and Id rev to .. yknow... go faster, and nothing would happen. Then all of a sudden, BAM it would kick in. This is quite frustrating as all i did was drop it at a very low speed while making a u-turn
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Jun 1, 2009 00:27
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Idle speed is the idle without any choke, right?
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Jun 1, 2009 01:01
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^^^ Yep, engine warmed up to normal operating temp.BlueBayou posted:Dropped my nina on the right side. Started back up again. Was riding back home on the freeway and noticed that id rev it, but nothing would happen... the engine would get louder but my speed remained the same. Damaged clutch linkage?
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Jun 1, 2009 01:05
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Bucephalus posted:
What does that mean exactly? It will shift fine as far as I can tell (green light goes on for neutral). But the clutch lever was banged up in the fall... so maybe that is it? But why would that effect the throttle?
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Jun 1, 2009 01:15
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Well the throttle's another story, but I'm thinking that the clutch actuator (the piece at the end of the cable, that goes up into the clutch cover) may have gotten tweaked and isn't pivoting freely. Engine revs but bike doesn't accelerate = slipping clutch (not fully engaging). Bike launches violently = actuator becomes unstuck, clutch engages suddenly. Squeeze/release the hand lever, and watch the actuator to see if it moves smoothly through its entire range of motion.
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Jun 1, 2009 01:47
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Its not the clutch alone, it might be a slipping clutch and carbs. I'm betting carbs since it idles with the choke on, and dies when you try to rev it. Somehow it has become very lean, either through sucking up poo poo in the float bowls, or an intake leak.
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Jun 1, 2009 01:47
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Good call; I guess he said the engine "got louder", not necessarily "revved up".
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Jun 1, 2009 01:55
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Bucephalus posted:Good call; I guess he said the engine "got louder", not necessarily "revved up". Yeah. Sorry bout that. I dont have a tach, so I cant tell if it was revving or just being loud. Going to go have a look at the clutch right now. Edit: clutch looked fine. i played with it a little bit just to feel like I had done something. Tried to start it. No go at first. but it never starts in the cold with out the choke. Put the choke on. Started right up and responded to the throttle. So I'd assume at this point that all this means is I can now ride it to the repair shop instead of getting a tow. Since I doubt its totally fine. Any recommendations for a SF repair place? Or could it just be some problem that had to settle? Maybe I'll take a test ride to safeway later. BlueBayou fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 01:58
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Yeah, take it for a spin just to see what it does. As much as I hate PFM* repairs, sometimes things just correct themselves. *Pure Fuckin' Magic
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Jun 1, 2009 02:41
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My friend claims that oil got in weird places and has just settles back into the pan. But he might be on crack. I might take it in anyway since I'm not sure i trust myself to put these on by myself:  Since they keep me from dying and all...
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Jun 1, 2009 02:49
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Is it possible to change the gearing ratio of individual gears on a ninja 250? If it is possible, would I have to have the parts custom made? I want a taller 6th gear to lower the RPMs on the highway, but I don't really want to change the ratio of all the lower gears with new final drive sprockets.
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Jun 1, 2009 03:09
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My GS750 has some lame aftermarket grips on it, and I'd like to replace them with something comfortable that resembles the originals. I found OEM grips on ebay, but they're about $40, and that seems high. Anyone have any suggestions and/or am I just being a cheap bastard?
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Jun 1, 2009 03:27
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BlueBayou posted:My friend claims that oil got in weird places and has just settles back into the pan. But he might be on crack. Brakes are really simple if you are at least a little competent with a wrench. Remove the caliper from the bike, slide off the old pads, clean the caliper and pistons with brake cleaner and a soft brush (I used an old toothbrush), making sure the sides of the pistons are as clean as possible. AFTER you've cleaned the pistons and caliper body thoroughly, press the pistons back into the body all the way. You should be able to just press them in with your thumbs, though a c-clamp makes the process easier. Insert the new brake pads, inspect all of the rubber seals, lube the guide pins with some silicone lube, and reinstall the caliper on the bike. Unless something is leaking/hosed, you should not need to open the reservoir, disconnect any brake lines, or bleed the brakes. The torque for the bolts that hold the calipers on can be found in the guide at ninja250.org. That guide goes more in depth about everything. Actually, the torquing bit was the only thing that gave me trouble, as I don't have my own torque wrench. From there, you just have to find an empty stretch of road or driveway that's long enough for you to follow the bedding procedure for the pads. Usually involves 5-10 rounds of slowing quickly from 60-10 MPH or so. There should be info on that for your specific brand. Also I hate how the iSight takes pictures as a mirror image. 
sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 03:43
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BlueBayou posted:My friend claims that oil got in weird places and has just settles back into the pan. But he might be on crack. Putting a bike on it's side can cause all kinds of weird behavior. I wouldn't be too concerned about it if it's running fine now. Brakes aren't that bad, follow the walkthrough and double check everything when you're done and you'll be fine. That walk through is even a bit more in depth than is really needed, IMO.
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Jun 1, 2009 04:59
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orthod0ks posted:My GS750 has some lame aftermarket grips on it, and I'd like to replace them with something comfortable that resembles the originals. I found OEM grips on ebay, but they're about $40, and that seems high. Anyone have any suggestions and/or am I just being a cheap bastard? Grips are easy to install and theres lots of fun ones to choose from. To start check out Oury, who have been making their grips for a million years and still have a big following. I personally have a pair of the road grips on my two stroke and love them dearly for their vibration dampening. http://www.ourygrips.com/grips_menu.html#
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Jun 1, 2009 05:10
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Z3n posted:Putting a bike on it's side can cause all kinds of weird behavior. I wouldn't be too concerned about it if it's running fine now. Well we'll see when i take it out tomorrow. But so far it seems like my bike has been able to take quite the beating and keep on truckin' ... or bikin' as it were. Yay Ninjas As for the brakes.. yeah, the guide is hella complicated. I really just want a simple guide to just swapping the pads.
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Jun 1, 2009 06:33
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BlueBayou posted:Well we'll see when i take it out tomorrow. But so far it seems like my bike has been able to take quite the beating and keep on truckin' ... or bikin' as it were. Yay Ninjas It's way more simple than they make it look.  How much brake life do you have left on your pads?
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Jun 1, 2009 06:40
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BigHustle posted:Nope. I haven't touched the choke. Until now, the bike started fine without it. Bikes should always need choke to start. If your bike doens't, it's to rich. I'd kinda bet that your pilots are to rich, not choked. The bike wouldn't start because it was, more or less, flooded. Uncle Ivan posted:I can get the bike to start pretty consistently now. It will start, and idle, doesn't sound like a great idle, but it idles most of the time. *snip* You're still lean. That's how my GS550ES runs. Idles solidly, rev it, and the engine will nearly stall. And then recover. Richen the pilots a LITTLE, and you should be ok. dietcokefiend posted:Are tank bags as bad as bumper bras on a car? I want something to keep my tank looking nice on my new sv650. Yes. Wax the tank, then put packing tape on the tank. The packing tape will take the wear instead of the tank. BlueBayou posted:I might take it in anyway since I'm not sure i trust myself to put these on by myself: They should take you 30 minutes to install, if you have any tools at all. And, if you ask teknicolor, taking your bike to the shop IS putting your life on the line. Teknicolor was nearly killed by a shop loving around on her ride. Or, where are you from? Maybe someone could show you? Or... Hmm... I wonder who's got a EX500 who will show you the two bolts to remove. :-)
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Jun 1, 2009 07:04
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Z3n posted:It's way more simple than they make it look. I'm sure it will be fine once I get around to it. And I am not sure how much life is left. I've tried to take a look but the angle is awkward. Zenaida had a look and said I'd be okay for a while. But better safe than sorry Nerobro posted:They should take you 30 minutes to install, if you have any tools at all. And, if you ask teknicolor, taking your bike to the shop IS putting your life on the line. Teknicolor was nearly killed by a shop loving around on her ride. SF bay area. I know a few people. I just feel awkward asking for help. I'll stop worrying now. Thanks for the advice, CA has been nothing but awesome and helpful.
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Jun 1, 2009 07:31
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Nerobro posted:Bikes should always need choke to start. If your bike doens't, it's to rich. I'd kinda bet that your pilots are to rich, not choked. sectoidman posted:Is it possible to change the gearing ratio of individual gears on a ninja 250? If it is possible, would I have to have the parts custom made? I want a taller 6th gear to lower the RPMs on the highway, but I don't really want to change the ratio of all the lower gears with new final drive sprockets. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 12:10
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:she has a ride that was all customized too, different exhaust and intakes maybe. who knows what fiddling was done on the carbs to accommodate that. The guy I got it from supposedly put in an auto choke or something, at least according to my friend who bought it and rode it up from LA. But experience has taught me that this is false and I need to choke it. But now I am confused, do *all* bikes need chokes? Or is it just that those bikes that have chokes, use them, and those without chokes don't?
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Jun 1, 2009 17:27
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all bikes with carbs (not fuel injection) have chokes. however, depending on the design or settings of the carbs, they're not 100% necessary. my 1955 bmw has a choke that i never use, because it has a springless throttle and it has "ticklers" on the carbs which are like a momentary choke. and my 84 guzzi refuses to run right unless the idle mixture is set really rich, so rich that it doesn't really need a choke when it's cold. it does have a choke on it though, so the carbs may just be misbehaving. the vast majority of engines that have chokes do need them to start up cold properly.
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Jun 1, 2009 17:43
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The Buell Blast has an automatic choke so you never have to fiddle. My bike will start without a choke if it's above 80 degrees outside though it will run rough for a few minutes. Above 90 degrees, it starts and runs fine without a choke. (When the engine is cold. Runs fine once it's warmed up.)
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Jun 1, 2009 18:00
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My bike runs like poo poo cold and requires that you're constantly fiddling with the choke for the first 30 seconds or so. Then it settles down and I can run at half choke for another 30 seconds and then turn it off completely.
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Jun 1, 2009 18:09
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I usually need to ride with choke on for the first 5 minutes or so, gradually pushing it back until the engine warms up beyond the second mark on the temp gauge. Even then I have to anticipate throttle inputs from idle, as jumping right on it from a light might kill it if I don't blip it a little first.
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Jun 1, 2009 18:12
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On my ZX600 I need to put it on about half way, let it idle at about 3-4k until the temp starts to creep up, then it is good to go for the most part.
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Jun 1, 2009 18:13
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Nerobro posted:You're still lean. That's how my GS550ES runs. Idles solidly, rev it, and the engine will nearly stall. And then recover. Richen the pilots a LITTLE, and you should be ok. Turning the pilot mixture adjustment screws doesn't seem to make any difference. It's counter-clockwise to increase the flow on the pilot circuit, right? So, if you change the airbox for pods, you'd go from 1.5 turns out to 2.5 turns out or so, right? I'm going to try changing the main jets and the needle height. I have 120s in there right now, I might drop the needle a bit and go to 130s.
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Jun 1, 2009 20:53
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Ok, so I just put a new set of fairings on last week/this weekend. I guess I maybe pinched a wire. I had it idling this morning while I put my gear on, and I noticed smoke comming from some wires under the seat. I parked the bike jumped in the car and went to work. At lunch I took a closer look. There are 3 white wires which connect to some kind of module bolted to the battery case that connect to 3 black wires running down by the engine. Now I assume there is a wire pinched, however I don't know what their function is or what they do. Can anyone tell me where these wires go and what this module does? If I start the bike without the module plugged in it idles roughly and at around 2k rpm's. If it's plugged in it idles normally but the wires get hot hot HOT! I have my bikes service manual and I cannot find this module or the wires in it anywhere. Thanks in advance guys!
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Jun 1, 2009 22:12
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Ok, so I just put a new set of fairings on last week/this weekend. I guess I maybe pinched a wire. I had it idling this morning while I put my gear on, and I noticed smoke comming from some wires under the seat. I parked the bike jumped in the car and went to work. Sounds like the stator wires. Repair them.
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Jun 1, 2009 23:18
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Z3n posted:Sounds like the stator wires. Repair them. will do!
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Jun 1, 2009 23:38
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With the stator to the rectifier does it matter in what order the wires are plugged in? they have no identifying marks on them and when the tape burned off they came undone. Just 3 white and 3 black i assume it's all AC power so does it matter?
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Jun 2, 2009 01:07
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Bike started up fine. Made it about halfway down the block when it died. I think it happened after I tired to shift into 2nd, but that might have just been coincidence. Sigh. I guess its time to start looking for a mechanic and a towing company. bah
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Jun 2, 2009 01:19
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On the carbs you're running, 2.5 turns out is really rich.
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Jun 2, 2009 03:05
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I seem to be getting worse than expected fuel mileage, ~30MPG. I was wondering what I could do to improve this with my limited tools and limited knowledge? I already ran some cheap fuel additive carb cleaner stuff through and it doesn't seem to have done much. For reference it's a Suzuki Katana 600F
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Jun 2, 2009 04:09
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I'm thinking about moving to Arizona (Tucson) and having only ridden in Washington where the weather ranges from 35-90ish I'm curious what kind of precautions I'd need to take for riding in 105+ weather. I have an 08 r6, and have heard horror stories about cruiser engines seizing up in heavy traffic, as well as blacktop oozing so that the kickstand doesn't keep the bike up. Anything I should keep in mind?
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Jun 2, 2009 04:20
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What the hell would cause my brake pad slider pin to get this kind of wear? No wonder my front brakes seemed a bit louder than usual, the pad couldn't back away from the rotor.
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Jun 2, 2009 04:49
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Corrosion between the pad mounting tab and the pin eating the surface a bit, until it gets play, then the play causes more play, etc etc.
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Jun 2, 2009 05:11
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Taisa posted:I'm thinking about moving to Arizona (Tucson) and having only ridden in Washington where the weather ranges from 35-90ish I'm curious what kind of precautions I'd need to take for riding in 105+ weather. I have an 08 r6, and have heard horror stories about cruiser engines seizing up in heavy traffic, as well as blacktop oozing so that the kickstand doesn't keep the bike up. Anything I should keep in mind? For the oozing blacktop issue, you can carry around something to put under the kickstand to distribute the weightof the bike more evenly. The most commonly used items are a crushed aluminum can or a metal plate of some kind, like a junction box lid. You can always get fancy and show your hockey pride with a Parking Puck, assuming you're a hockey fan.
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Jun 2, 2009 05:25
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| # ? May 15, 2024 16:54 |
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:With the stator to the rectifier does it matter in what order the wires are plugged in? they have no identifying marks on them and when the tape burned off they came undone. Just 3 white and 3 black i assume it's all AC power so does it matter? Nope, doesn't matter.
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Jun 2, 2009 05:40
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