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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Get a Pit Bull stand, Harbor freight won't have near the build quality or reliability. I have two of these on my GSXR and they work perfectly.
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Jun 8, 2009 04:30
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edit. Answered my own question.
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Jun 8, 2009 05:03
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laymil posted:drat, it's actually shorter than mine I'd suggest finding one that works with spools... way more stable/secure. I got a T-Rex stand off ebay for about half the price of a pittbull and it works great.
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Jun 8, 2009 05:09
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. Oh well, I'll just deal with the extra lean for the time being. Thanks for measuring.
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the HF stands are replicas of the really high end ones. Replace the hardware in them and do your own quality control and you'll be fine.
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Jun 8, 2009 06:25
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What are my options for a full exhaust on my ex500? My cans are scraped and rusted from an accident where a friend crashed my bike and I think it's finally time to get rid of that poo poo.
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Jun 8, 2009 06:34
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Prelude Gundam posted:
I think its just mechanic time. I enjoy throwing money at problems until they go away.
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Jun 8, 2009 19:42
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What's the deal with slip-on exhaust? Is it a full replacement that requires no mod, or is it supposed to plug in somehow? I've googled and can't find much but a lot of offers to buy slip-on exhaust. My 1983 Shadow VT750C's exhaust is horribly blue'd and rusted, and it's not OEM. It's a MAC aftermarket bit. There's some Jardine slip-ons on e-bay all the time for $50-$100 and I'd like to pick them up and improve the look of my bike. I just don't want to get them and find out they require original exhaust or something like that. Also, can anybody say how well those universal heat shields work/look/install? The existing exhaust looks the worst out of the heads... I figure I can just hide it with those.
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Jun 8, 2009 20:49
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It's come time for my first tire change, and I've got a little problem concerning sizes. My 93 ex500 uses a 120/90-16 rear, and I'm having trouble finding such a tiny tire anywhere. Would a 130/90-16 fit all right?
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Jun 8, 2009 21:54
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Halo_4am posted:What's the deal with slip-on exhaust? Is it a full replacement that requires no mod, or is it supposed to plug in somehow? I've googled and can't find much but a lot of offers to buy slip-on exhaust. Slipons are basically different mufflers, sometimes different midpipes, depending on the system. A full system is headers, midpipes, and mufflers. You can usually put on a slipon setup without rejetting or using a PC3 and usually be fine. You will get better power and throttle response if you do rejet or get it tuned, though. If your bike has a particularly vicious lean spot to pass EPA at around 4k, it will make that worse, so if you've got a nasty lean surge at cruising RPM, you may want to rejet. Shimnming the needles will typically take care of it without shelling out for a jet kit and dyno time. As always, though, the best solution is a proper tune. AncientTV posted:It's come time for my first tire change, and I've got a little problem concerning sizes. My 93 ex500 uses a 120/90-16 rear, and I'm having trouble finding such a tiny tire anywhere. Would a 130/90-16 fit all right? A 130 will be fine. Don't go any bigger than that though.
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Jun 8, 2009 22:29
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Z3n posted:the HF stands are replicas of the really high end ones. Replace the hardware in them and do your own quality control and you'll be fine. Yea I got the aluminum one for my sv650 and it seems ok for now. The welds look like poo poo some child with a "My First TIG" might do. Beyond looks it appears to be strong enough to do the job well, even when shaking the bike all around.
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Jun 8, 2009 22:30
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I made an uninformed purchase for my first stand. Its a Lockhart Phillips and I'm a bit paranoid about it at times, Wish I had spent $50 for a piece of mind with Pit Bull
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Jun 8, 2009 22:32
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My new ZZR1200...  With Luggage and pig:  Thus far, I like it quite a bit. The good: drat fast, long wheelbase means it doesn't really want to wheelie so much as it wants to go forward very quickly. Only slightly more powerful HPwise than my 929 was, but with way more midrange and low end. You can ride it around under 3k all day long, and on the freeway it cruises effortlessly at 4k at 70mph. A little throttle and it pulls up to 100 in a couple of seconds, even in top gear. The hard bags are great for little stuff, but because the top is the only way to get stuff in and out of the bag, while they're big they're a little restrictive when it comes to getting things in and out of them. I may end up replacing them with a set of givis and a top box. The bad: The seat. Oh god. Too soft, hot spots very quickly, and after 225 miles yesterday, it was fairly miserable. However, it does offer a decent amount of space to move around, so by varying my position a bunch, it wasn't that bad. The ugly: I would have said the bike itself, but after riding it around yesterday, this bike attracts more positive attention than anything I've ever ridden. Kids wave, adults swoon (sort of) and everyone seems to like a guy riding around on a full dressed up hypertouring bike. I don't get it. I got more grins, waves, and attention yesterday in 200 miles than I ever did on any of my other bikes, from the hacked up triumph to the 929. Mystifying. Great bike, enjoying the hell out of it so far 
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Jun 8, 2009 22:40
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Welcome to the 1200cc monster club
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Jun 8, 2009 22:54
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Ain't those the Corbin beetlebags?
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Jun 8, 2009 23:16
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Phat_Albert posted:Welcome to the 1200cc monster club Danke. It's a pretty nice club. Phy posted:Ain't those the Corbin beetlebags? They are. I'd like to trade them for a givi setup. Need to start checking the ZZR1200 forums.
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Jun 8, 2009 23:18
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Don't practice your golf swing near the bike.  No, really what the gently caress are those dimples for?
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Jun 8, 2009 23:31
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Doctor Zero posted:Don't practice your golf swing near the bike. It's a mystery. Air turbulance? Someone got excited at the factory? Pointless additional work for bad corbin employees? They fit the bike really nicely, I have to say. I'd just prefer something that's somewhat slimmer for lane sharing and can fit a full face helmet, as well as easier to pack and carry. But somehow, despite looking absolutely retarded in pictures, they look pretty decent in person.
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Jun 8, 2009 23:56
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Z3n posted:But somehow, despite looking absolutely retarded in pictures, they look pretty decent in person. Having seen Z3n's bike in the flesh, I can back this statement up. They look good in person - the fit looks OEM. I don't comprehend the butt-dimples though.
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Jun 9, 2009 00:10
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What the hell, I just realized I posted this in the Question thread, rather than the "Let's see your motorcycle thread".  Motorcycle Question Thread II: Less Butt Dimples and More Questions
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Jun 9, 2009 00:16
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Z3n posted:the HF stands are replicas of the really high end ones. Replace the hardware in them and do your own quality control and you'll be fine. Well, I ended up calling the HF near my house - they said they didn't have any in stock, so I ordered a set of T-Rex stands. Then I decided to stop by HF anyway... Apparently they have a pile of them, so $32 later I have a rear stand. Construction is actually very good, so I'll keep it anyway. It does support spools with a $10 adapter, but my bike has no provision for spools, so it does me no good.
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Jun 9, 2009 00:28
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I assume you have the silver one?
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Jun 9, 2009 03:29
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Z3n posted:What the hell, I just realized I posted this in the Question thread, rather than the "Let's see your motorcycle thread". What year is ye olde ZZR?
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Jun 9, 2009 03:30
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Phat_Albert posted:What year is ye olde ZZR? 2003...just before they did the revision. I need to do something about the front forks (too soft) the back (too springy), and attend to some odds and ends with it. It's my first Hydraulic clutch, and the fluid looks like tea and it changes engagement points as soon as it gets hot. That needs to be addressed. It's not a torque monster like the Bandit is, but it has a much harder top end rush.
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Jun 9, 2009 03:38
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Z3n posted:2003...just before they did the revision. I need to do something about the front forks (too soft) the back (too springy), and attend to some odds and ends with it. It's my first Hydraulic clutch, and the fluid looks like tea and it changes engagement points as soon as it gets hot. That needs to be addressed. Is that running a retuned ZX12R motor, or a ZX11R or what?
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Jun 9, 2009 03:49
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Phat_Albert posted:Is that running a retuned ZX12R motor, or a ZX11R or what? It's sort of an oddball compilation of some ZX12 stuff, and some ZRX1200 stuff. Little bit of both.
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Jun 9, 2009 04:12
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Z3n posted:It's a mystery. Air turbulance? Someone got excited at the factory? Pointless additional work for bad corbin employees? I like the look of the bags, and how integrated they are. I just didn't know what was up with the dimples.
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Jun 9, 2009 05:40
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Hey all, I'm preparing to buy a 2009 Ninja 250, but I have a few questions. I had a friend and older biker (who hasn't rode in a long time) told me that 250s start to speed wobble around 60mph. I figured that bikes have probably improved since he last rode, but I wanted to check. Remember I am a beginner, so I figured a 250 would be the best start (please correct me if I'm wrong). Thanks in advance.
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Jun 9, 2009 06:00
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Great bike, you'll be fine wobble wise up to extra legal speeds, though it'll take time to get there. Unless cash is no object, buy used, you'll save a bit.
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Jun 9, 2009 06:12
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bbdmonkey posted:I had a friend and older biker (who hasn't rode in a long time) told me that 250s start to speed wobble around 60mph. They were either riding a really out of balance bike or weren't used to riding a smaller bike. Crosswinds will knock you around and it is scary at first but you'll get used it and after a while you'll barely notice it.
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Jun 9, 2009 06:18
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Thanks for the quick answers, is there really that much of a difference between the 2008 and 2009 Ninjas?
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Jun 9, 2009 06:33
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bbdmonkey posted:Thanks for the quick answers, is there really that much of a difference between the 2008 and 2009 Ninjas? Not that you'll notice. Its a 250 Ninja and they were pretty much standardized all around the world in 2008. It will handle really well, will rev to a million rpm, and look like a spaceship. You'll be instantly in love and its the perfect bike to learn on.
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Jun 9, 2009 06:39
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8ender posted:Not that you'll notice. Its a 250 Ninja and they were pretty much standardized all around the world in 2008. It will handle really well, will rev to a million rpm, and look like a spaceship. You'll be instantly in love and its the perfect bike to learn on. Thank you very much!
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Jun 9, 2009 06:47
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8ender posted:Not that you'll notice. Its a 250 Ninja and they were pretty much standardized all around the world in 2008. It will handle really well, will rev to a million rpm, and look like a spaceship. You'll be instantly in love and its the perfect bike to learn on. Except the good ole US of A gets dicked out of fuel injection. The bike's been using the same motor since 1988 right?
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Jun 9, 2009 09:18
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AkrisD posted:Except the good ole US of A gets dicked out of fuel injection. Not sure on the history of the motor but they've got the carbs on that bike refined so well that it might as well by fuel injected. My fiances brothers is like a swiss clock.
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Jun 9, 2009 12:11
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Z3n posted:I assume you have the silver one? No, I purchased the black one. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66192
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Jun 9, 2009 12:55
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:That Shout gel in a spray bottle, combined with a nylon brush, did a great job getting all that fork lube out of my trousers. Thanks for the tip! I'm going to put this post into notepad for everytime someone has a leaking for seal. Often your fork seal just has some dirt in it - often you can clean out a leaking fork seal and it will stop leaking. You can use film negatives or a glossy business card - or you can buy this: http://www.sealmate.net/index.html Just slide your tool up under the fork seal - do it all the way around. Chances are it will fix your problem. You should probably then go ahead and drain/replace the fork oil.
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Jun 9, 2009 15:51
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n8r posted:I'm going to put this post into notepad for everytime someone has a leaking for seal. Often your fork seal just has some dirt in it - often you can clean out a leaking fork seal and it will stop leaking. You can use film negatives or a glossy business card - or you can buy this: http://www.sealmate.net/index.html This fixed my 35 year old trials bike forks.
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Jun 9, 2009 16:09
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Is everyone here as anti-WD40 as the rest of the internet when it comes to cleaning your chain? I think I'm going to buy a small container of kerosene and a spray bottle and use that from now on. Also should small surface rust be dealt with asap? Both the place I got it inspected and the local Kawasaki dealership said I shouldn't worry about it but I'm wondering whether I should stop it in its tracks before it spreads. Do those sprays that prevent corrosion work? The rust discoloration around a few bolts and welds are courtesy of the previous owner who kept it outside during the summer. I park it in my shed every day so it shouldn't be an issue in the future.
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Jun 10, 2009 01:23
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kylej posted:Is everyone here as anti-WD40 as the rest of the internet when it comes to cleaning your chain? I think I'm going to buy a small container of kerosene and a spray bottle and use that from now on. I use GooGone on my pedal bike chain (soak it in a tub), and it's cleanly removed about any other kind of grease I've run across. The MSDS says it's not flammable, but that's just in liquid form...so beware if you're using the spray bottles... Way better than WD40 for any kind of cleaning.
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Jun 10, 2009 01:50
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UserNotFound posted:I use GooGone on my pedal bike chain (soak it in a tub), and it's cleanly removed about any other kind of grease I've run across. The MSDS says it's not flammable, but that's just in liquid form...so beware if you're using the spray bottles... You don't want to remove the grease from anything on a motorcycle chain. You don't want the factory lubricant or the o-rings being dried out. Basically, a chain will go essentially forever as long as the orings are intact and the lube that's packed into the rollers from the factory is intact. Once they go, there is absolutely nothing you can do to keep the chain from stretching and eventually going slack or even breaking. The old school, non-oring chains required lubing basically every ride if you expected them to last. Do not use anything that could damage the rubber o-rings when you clean your chain, as you will destroy it. Some claim the aerosal component in WD40 destroys orings, but the WD40 itself is fine. You don't need to clean the chain if you use gear oil. Spray on stuff is good if you're willing to clean your chain every so often, but again, you have to be careful not to damage the orings with a too stiff brush, you have to use blah blah blah cleaner that won't destroy the orings or leech the grease out of the rollers, etc. Yes, it sucks to have to wipe your bike down once a week if you use gear oil, but it's a small trade off to pay when it comes to having your chains last 40k+ and you never have to clean the thing. It's also why scottoilers are the poo poo. The only place I'd use the spray on stuff is if you ride in the rain a lot. Even so, if you just lube your chain every 200 miles rather than every 400 miles, it's not a big deal. kyle, hit the rust with some tin foil and call it good. Z3n fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 10, 2009 |
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Jun 10, 2009 02:19
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