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Use diesel fuel to clean your chain. As a bonus, it smells awesome.
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Jun 10, 2009 02:23
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Z3n posted:words Since I am a lazy gently caress, and half the time the bike is being used to commute to work, I have a bad habit of not oiling my chain. Yes, I know it will kill me, but leaving the house at 5.30am really doesn't make me want to do anything else when I get back. So I'm seriously thinking of a Scottoiler, partially because of my aforementioned laziness, and partially because I'm looking at doing quite a lot of touring, and I think it would make my life easier. Has anyone used them? Had bad experiences with them? Are there any major get/don't get differences between the models?
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Jun 10, 2009 12:05
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Z3n posted:You don't need to clean the chain if you use gear oil.
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Jun 10, 2009 15:12
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Orange Someone posted:Since I am a lazy gently caress, and half the time the bike is being used to commute to work, I have a bad habit of not oiling my chain. Yes, I know it will kill me, but leaving the house at 5.30am really doesn't make me want to do anything else when I get back. How long's your commute, and how often? You should be able to find half an hour on a day off; that's about as long as it takes if you're walking it back and forth to expose different bits of the chain. If you have a lift, stand or centerstand, it's even quicker.
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Jun 10, 2009 15:16
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I've lubed my chain twice now since I've had the bike, using a spray can of DuPont teflon based lubricant. It was one of the easier to use recommended lubes on ninja250.org. I cleaned the chain the first time because it was completely black, and covered with poo poo. I used a spray can of WD-40, sprayed into a rag and then wiped over the chain. Then I just cut the red nozzle tube short on the lube can, and had the whole thing done in about an hour total with the cleaning. The second time it took me maybe 15 minutes start to finish to just lube it up. The teflon stuff has been nice so far because it does an ok job of not attracting more dirt, and when you spray it on again it blasts away what dirt is there. Its probably a good deal more expensive in the long run than gear oil, although the intervals are a bit longer. And the teflon stuff doesn't fling off once it dries (unless you spray on a fuckton of it). I've lubed it every ~500 miles at this rate.
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Jun 10, 2009 18:29
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Ah the continuing saga of Blue's Ninja... Tow guy came by this morning. Flipped it to reserve, adjusted the clutch, gave it a jump and BAM, we had ignition. He reckoned the clutch got blipped when i fell, and apparently I need more gas, which is weird because I shouldn't.... Said I needed to ride it around for 40 minutes to charge the battery or just ride it to the shop and have them charge it. So I rode my bike (YAYAYAYAY) to the shop, guy said he'd make a few adjustments and I should have it back by the end of the day. All told its going to run me about $100, but thats a fine price for piece of mind :]
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Jun 10, 2009 18:41
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BlueBayou posted:All told its going to run me about $100, but thats a fine price for piece of mind :] Awesome! I'd say you got off easy. Sounds like a decent shop.
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Jun 10, 2009 18:45
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Ha. Sounds like you lucked into a helpful tow truck driver (or at least one that's dealt with motorcycles before).
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Jun 10, 2009 18:59
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Simkin posted:Ha. Sounds like you lucked into a helpful tow truck driver (or at least one that's dealt with motorcycles before). Seriously. The guys that towed me a month ago weren't even in agreement with each other on how to strap the thing down. 
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Jun 10, 2009 19:14
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I called a motorcycle tow guy. Yelp helped ssoo much, got me the tow and the shop.
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Jun 10, 2009 19:33
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I just replaced the clutch springs on my clutch with a combination of 4 stock springs and 2 aftermarket ones. The guy I bought the bike from had 6 aftermarket springs installed, which made the clutch completely impossible to work. I've noticed that when I'm riding around, in say 3rd gear, and I give a fair amount of throttle from say 1/8 to 1/2 or so, I hear a rhythmic chatter, sort of like rocks rattling in a can. The engine doesn't pull as well, then after a little while, the rattling stops and the engine starts pulling stronger. The rattling does not happen when the engine is under steady load, only when I give it throttle. If it's in a higher gear, it rattles more. I can't really tell if it's coming from the clutch or not. Is it possible that going to weaker springs would cause the chattering to come from the clutch plates? The clutch doesn't seem like it slips at all, since the RPMs don't increase when the chattering is happening. Or can this be a carburetor tuning issue? I guess I could pull the clutch apart again and put the aftermarket springs back in, but I'd rather not have to redrain and refill the oil if I didn't have to. Uncle Ivan fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 00:53
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Uncle Ivan posted:I hear a rhythmic chatter, sort of like rocks rattling in a can. The engine doesn't pull as well, then after a little while, the rattling stops and the engine starts pulling stronger. The rattling does not happen when the engine is under steady load, only when I give it throttle. If it's in a higher gear, it rattles more. You may be chasing a pinging problem from improper (lean) fuel mixture?
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Jun 11, 2009 02:39
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I want to rotate my subframe off the upper mounting bolts, so I can have better access to the sheared bolt. However, I need to remove the duct between my airbox and the carb (just the one carb). Is doing so massively unwise? e: Too late! Stuffed a rag in the hole. Phy fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 02:40
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I need to really tune my carbs and have no idea how to feel if it is running right. would investing in something like this http://www.knfilters.com/airfuelmonitors.htm help me at all or am I stuck having someone else tell me I'm running rich whenever they are behind me until I get it right.
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Jun 11, 2009 03:46
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:I need to really tune my carbs and have no idea how to feel if it is running right. would investing in something like this http://www.knfilters.com/airfuelmonitors.htm help me at all or am I stuck having someone else tell me I'm running rich whenever they are behind me until I get it right. I have a Colortune, which is a huge pain in the rear end compared to an exhaust oxygen sensor, but it's also significantly cheaper and gets the job done eventually. Basically it's a replacement spark plug where you can look at the flame of combustion. It's not really any good for tuning anything other than idle -> 1/4 throttle or so, though, so you'd still have to do plug chops for the higher range.
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Jun 11, 2009 04:02
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My knowledge of 80s and 90s bikes is fairly limited. Here's hoping one of you wise souls can narrow down a range of features into a few models. This isn't a "recommend me" thread, as I'm not planning to buy anything and I'm more curious about the heritage (and confirming the existence) of such a beast. As a side note, what has me thinking of this was the recent posts (Z3n and others) about sport bikes turning into touring bikes once their tech was a couple years old. So, does this monster exist: - 80s or 90s bike with a 600cc+ performance oriented engine - Dual round headlights and full fairings (ala '89 FZR) - Won't look retarded with moderately large bags (soft or hard) - Sport touring ride position (with or without mods to make it that way) OrangeFurious fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 04:28
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It seems I've jumped in at the right time. I've been lusting after an old CB of some kind. Realistically I don't have time to get everything in order to prep for the Ontario riding season anyway, but if it's possible maybe get the bike first to give some motivation. After trolling all the usual spots, I came across this, is there much to know about these CB's that is an instant too-expensive-to-fix sort of thing? Here's the listing, anyway. 79 CB750k
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Jun 11, 2009 05:01
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Z3n posted:You don't want to remove the grease from anything on a motorcycle chain. You don't want the factory lubricant or the o-rings being dried out. Basically, a chain will go essentially forever as long as the orings are intact and the lube that's packed into the rollers from the factory is intact. Once they go, there is absolutely nothing you can do to keep the chain from stretching and eventually going slack or even breaking. The old school, non-oring chains required lubing basically every ride if you expected them to last. I never clean my chain. Every 500 miles I lube the o-rings and the rollers with spray-on chain lube. I hit each o-ring and both edges of the rollers on every link. Does anyone really think it wont last as long? Since I do it every 500 miles, it's never dry and hasn't given me any trouble.
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Jun 11, 2009 05:26
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aventari posted:I never clean my chain. Every 500 miles I lube the o-rings and the rollers with spray-on chain lube. I hit each o-ring and both edges of the rollers on every link. Does anyone really think it wont last as long? Since I do it every 500 miles, it's never dry and hasn't given me any trouble. Wait until around 10-15k. Some people sell bikes before that point, some people don't ride them enough, but eventually it'll tear up the orings, the grease will leak out, and the chains will stretch and tightspot. I did it for 30k before I finally got tired of replacing chains every 10k. There was a fair bit of aggressive riding in there too, as well as other general abuse, but modern chains are good enough that you can neglect them for quite awhile and they won't show any problems...you'll just never see the life out of the chain that you should. Once you see the red dirt start to show up, that's the factory lube coming out of the rollers...it's the sign of the end with chains. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 06:08
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Nothing like a chain that can stand up on its own.
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Jun 11, 2009 13:28
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OrangeFurious posted:My knowledge of 80s and 90s bikes is fairly limited. Here's hoping one of you wise souls can narrow down a range of features into a few models. This isn't a "recommend me" thread, as I'm not planning to buy anything and I'm more curious about the heritage (and confirming the existence) of such a beast. 80's GSXR-750/1100 
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Jun 11, 2009 15:25
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OrangeFurious posted:My knowledge of 80s and 90s bikes is fairly limited. Here's hoping one of you wise souls can narrow down a range of features into a few models. This isn't a "recommend me" thread, as I'm not planning to buy anything and I'm more curious about the heritage (and confirming the existence) of such a beast.  Bonus NSR fairing kit:  More info FZR 1000:  Click here for the full 619x480 image. Comedy option: Older Speed triple.
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Jun 11, 2009 16:36
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Thanks for the suggestions. Having never ridden any of these myself, does the ride position allow them to be used in a touring capacity? Realistically, that is. Would you go five hundred miles on one in a day, with luggage? Side note, I love these awful 80s sport colors.
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Jun 11, 2009 18:52
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OrangeFurious posted:Thanks for the suggestions. Having never ridden any of these myself, does the ride position allow them to be used in a touring capacity? Realistically, that is. Would you go five hundred miles on one in a day, with luggage? With a little work, yes. You may be looking at a spiegler bar kit, helibars may do well enough for you, some slight mods may need to be done, but even my "sport touring" ZZR1200 really needs the genmars on it to be comfortable. Edit: genmar bar risers, not givis. Z3n fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 19:27
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OrangeFurious posted:Thanks for the suggestions. Having never ridden any of these myself, does the ride position allow them to be used in a touring capacity? Realistically, that is. Would you go five hundred miles on one in a day, with luggage? It doesn't meet your round headlights criterion, but the Honda ST1100 is more of the Touring side of the equation you're after:  And also, the Interceptor has been billed as more of a Sport touring capable bike in recent years. it doesn't fit your time frame, though. 
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Jun 11, 2009 19:52
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Doctor Zero posted:And also, the Interceptor has been billed as more of a Sport touring capable bike in recent years. I just can't imagine keeping my knees in that position for 500 miles. I would be hobbling for at least an hour afterwards.
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Jun 11, 2009 20:23
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So I got my bike back from the shop and every time I come to a stop the engine seems so quiet and I worry that it is going to stall and end up revving the throttle a bit. Assure me that it is just that the show set the idle lower.
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Jun 11, 2009 21:38
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BlueBayou posted:So I got my bike back from the shop and every time I come to a stop the engine seems so quiet and I worry that it is going to stall and end up revving the throttle a bit. What is it idling at?
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Jun 11, 2009 21:40
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I've posted previously that when I tried to sync my carbs, the gauges on 2 and 3 were fluttering wildly, and no amount of restriction (short of closing them off completely) would steady them. I've also mentioned that I have an upper-midrange stutter/misfire. My understanding is that CV carbs use the engine's vacuum to lift the piston, which raises the jet needle, which meters fuel. I'm assuming, then, that an erratic vacuum signal (as seen on cylinders 2 and 3) would lead to the CV piston bouncing, causing erratic fuel flow. I tested this theory by joining carb 1 to carb 2 by their vacuum ports. I joined 3 to 4 the same way, hoping the steady vacuum signals would help even out the erratic ones. Bingo. Smooth as glass, all the way to redline. Now the questions: is there any reason this arrangement is unacceptable? What if I link all 4? Thoughts?
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Jun 12, 2009 03:21
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Because it indicates something else is wrong with your bike. Did you do your valves recently? If not, do those first, then it's time to recheck your carb sync.
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Jun 12, 2009 03:28
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Nerobro posted:Did you do your valves recently? If not, do those first Do you mean check/adjust lash? If so, then yes, just yesterday. They were all perfect. I was hoping to find tight intakes. If you mean resurfacing faces and seats, then no, that's exactly what I'm trying to put off until winter. (Compression & leakdown tests to be performed first, of course.)
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Jun 12, 2009 03:39
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Nope, I just mean checking the lash. Also, at idle, the slides are completley shut, and the slides are down all the way. ;-) If they aren't your idle is WAY to high. get some piano wire, and bench sync the carbs. Then go a vacuum sync.
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Jun 12, 2009 03:42
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Bench sync was done after reassembly (I unracked 'em, remember?  ), idle is very nice at 1000-1100 RPM. I'll try another vacuum sync this weekend, but if they don't come out of it, I'm leaving my "crutch" in place until after riding season. Then I'll hardcore troubleshoot. I'm seriously thinking coked-up intake valves.
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Jun 12, 2009 03:52
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Well, I finally got my bike back from the shop... 2 weeks, $700 and a poo poo ton of work later, I have a fully functional bike. Apparently it wasn't taken very good care of. Just about everything needed fixed - rebuilt carbs, replaced spark plugs, repaired break, throttle and clutch cables, oil change, air filter replacement (there wasn't even a real air filter in it - it was a cut piece of purifier filter), petcock repair and a state inspection. The bike rides like a dream now. I'm no longer stalling constantly and getting 3 miles to the gallon. Put about 20 miles on it today, and I'm loving it. The only unresolved issue is they said the petcock has a vacuum problem, and isn't properly preventing gas flow. They were able to repair it to the point that it's not pouring fuel anymore, but the part's not made anymore, and I guess they don't use eBay for parts. Dude told me to keep it in the off position when I'm not riding so if something leaks inside, I don't get fuel everywhere. This works temporarily, but I'd like to just replace the petcock since it sounds like this is a simple job. I've got a '79 GS750L, and I've seen plenty of petcocks for GS750's, but none that specify the elusive 'L' model. Does anyone know if it's a different part or if the others will suffice?
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Jun 13, 2009 02:00
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My '05 250 Ninja fell over while parked, breaking an inch off the clutch handle. How hard are these to replace and where is the cheapest place to get the OEM part online?
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Jun 13, 2009 02:39
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Oceanlife posted:My '05 250 Ninja fell over while parked, breaking an inch off the clutch handle. How hard are these to replace and where is the cheapest place to get the OEM part online? Why would you want an OEM part? OEM is usually very pricey. http://www.google.com/products?q=ninja+250+lever+clutch&hl=en&scoring=p
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Jun 13, 2009 02:43
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How do I mount my Valentine One on my Husqvarna SMR so that it will be both effective and survive harsh riding? Edit: I think the only way to pull it off is to combine this with this. Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jun 13, 2009 |
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Jun 13, 2009 03:02
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Gnaghi posted:How do I mount my Valentine One on my Husqvarna SMR so that it will be both effective and survive harsh riding? I bet there's a RAM mount that would handle this: http://www.ram-mount.com/Products/MotorcycleMounts/tabid/128/Default.aspx
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Jun 13, 2009 05:49
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Oceanlife posted:My '05 250 Ninja fell over while parked, breaking an inch off the clutch handle. How hard are these to replace and where is the cheapest place to get the OEM part online? They aren't too hard to replace, it's just removing a nut and bolt and reducing the tension on the clutch cable enough to separate it from the lever. Mind the clutch safety switch when installing the new lever. Here's a diagram: http://faq.ninja250.org/images/4/4f/Handlebar_perch_control.jpg edit: While you have the lever off and the cable exposed, it might not be a bad idea to lube the clutch cable. sectoidman fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Jun 13, 2009 |
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Jun 13, 2009 05:56
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Oceanlife posted:My '05 250 Ninja fell over while parked, breaking an inch off the clutch handle. How hard are these to replace and where is the cheapest place to get the OEM part online? Bikebandit is a few dollars cheaper then the dealer, but takes longer if the dealer has it in stock. After shipping it's pretty much a wash, so I'd buy it at the dealer if they've got one.
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Jun 13, 2009 06:55
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