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PlasticSun posted:I bet there's a RAM mount that would handle this: http://www.ram-mount.com/Products/MotorcycleMounts/tabid/128/Default.aspx I was looking through them. I think the bag is best just cause it will kinda act like a shock absorber. Then I run the little remote mount up by the dash.
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Jun 13, 2009 12:18
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Ok so I got my bike into the 100+ regions last night first time up there since I got new tires. It was wobbly as loving and kind of scary. I'm on a ninja 500 on pireli sport demons. When I was up there with the OEM tires it was never wobbly like that. What's the cause?
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Jun 13, 2009 18:25
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KidDynamite posted:Ok so I got my bike into the 100+ regions last night first time up there since I got new tires. It was wobbly as loving and kind of scary. I'm on a ninja 500 on pireli sport demons. When I was up there with the OEM tires it was never wobbly like that. What's the cause? The three things which are not mechanical failures and have made my bike wobble are wind, grooves in the road, and me not having weight near the front. Any of those possible?
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Jun 13, 2009 18:56
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It's getting close to the time that I need to replace my tires (1990 Honda Hawk), and I want to put some michelin Pilot Road 2s on. Anyone have a good/bad experience with them?
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Jun 13, 2009 19:43
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KidDynamite posted:Ok so I got my bike into the 100+ regions last night first time up there since I got new tires. It was wobbly as loving and kind of scary. I'm on a ninja 500 on pireli sport demons. When I was up there with the OEM tires it was never wobbly like that. What's the cause? Did they/you balance the tires when you put them on?
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Jun 13, 2009 20:11
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Z3n posted:My new ZZR1200... Sweet looking bike. How tall are you, and what do you think of the ergonomics? I'm looking at joining the world of hypertouring, but I'm a little worried I won't be able to find something to fit me comfortably at 6'5".
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Jun 13, 2009 21:05
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So i think I may have caused more issues. yay Rode the bike around today, was having issues getting it to stay idle at red lights without leaving the choke on, so i just put it at about half way for my ride around town. Turned it off on the highway... Got to thinking that my idle was set too low.. and just forgot about it. About 5 blocks from home my left leg starts to feel really hot, I look down and there is a little bit of white smoke coming off my bike. I get it home and have a look. No coolant at alllll left in the reservoir, and the left muffler thingy has white marks on it. So I guess I overheated it.... maybe by putting the choke on too long. Off to buy coolant. next time, I am buying new Edit: aaannnddd Im missing a bolt BlueBayou fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Jun 13, 2009 22:43
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Running the choke on will not make it overheat. Running it out of coolant will though. You probably have a leak or something, fill it up and ride it and see what happens. Keep an eye out for any kind of leaking from the bike
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Jun 14, 2009 01:55
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Missing a bolt that is causing a leak. Getting a ride to home depot from a friend in a bit to buy an rear end load of bolts until one fits! edit: but even if i fix that problem, it still doesnt explain the idle problems.. or does it? BlueBayou fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Jun 14, 2009 02:04
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wouldn't think a coolant leak would be related to idle issues unless the idle only caused problems after it overheated. could be the idle set screw is just too low, did you mess with that? i dunno how easy it is to get to on an ex250...
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Jun 14, 2009 02:58
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:wouldn't think a coolant leak would be related to idle issues unless the idle only caused problems after it overheated. could be the idle set screw is just too low, did you mess with that? i dunno how easy it is to get to on an ex250... its easy. I'll adjust it after I work out the coolant issues. blaaahhh
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Jun 14, 2009 06:02
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BlueBayou posted:
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Jun 14, 2009 14:26
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During my morning ride the one remining screw holding the face of the tachometer on my 75 Honda CB500T in place vibrated out of it's socket. The needle still functions, but the face spins around like a record. I took the assembly off, but it doesn't look like it comes apart. Does anyone know if you can get these things apart, and if so, how?
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Jun 14, 2009 15:44
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BlueBayou posted:So i think I may have caused more issues. yay Have you checked the valve clearances recently? The last time I had issues with mine idling, it was because the valves were too tight. It might not be a bad idea to pull/replace the spark plugs either, since they're cheap and you can check the old ones to see if you're running lean/rich.
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Jun 14, 2009 15:51
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Doctor Zero posted:Did they/you balance the tires when you put them on? Yes they did. I think it was a weight issue and the road. I did some "testing" last night.
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Jun 14, 2009 16:24
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BigHustle posted:During my morning ride the one remining screw holding the face of the tachometer on my 75 Honda CB500T in place vibrated out of it's socket. The needle still functions, but the face spins around like a record. I took the assembly off, but it doesn't look like it comes apart. Does anyone know if you can get these things apart, and if so, how? If its anything like the speedo on my YDS3 then yes it comes apart but no, its not worth it unless you can't find a replacement. The speedo on my bike has a pressed on ring sealing it all together. A good alternative is to look around for a "speedo guy" in your area. There is usually some shop or person that specializes in restoring gauges for old cars and bikes.
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Jun 14, 2009 16:47
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8ender posted:If its anything like the speedo on my YDS3 then yes it comes apart but no, its not worth it unless you can't find a replacement. The speedo on my bike has a pressed on ring sealing it all together. After looking at it again, it is press-fit with a chrome ring around the edges. I found a replacement for the tach the center control light panel on eBay. Now I just have to hope I don't get outbid or go over what I really want to spend to replace it. Until then, I'll just have to use the amount of vibration as a guide to the current RPMs.
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Jun 14, 2009 17:05
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So I unracked my carbs today to stop the fuel joints from leaking. It was annoying me enough to go through the horrible task. Luckily the way the rocker arms are designed on my KZ I was able to pull it off without ruining the current sync adjustments. These carbs were on the bike when I got it and aside from a few little issues at certain RPMS the bike runs fine. I can see from the loctite on the rocker arm adjusters that someone has been in there playing around with the sync. Just looking at the location of the sliders it seems like they aren't all that close to a mechanical sync. One more detail: these aren't the original carbs for this bike, they're actually off another KZ a few years younger. The PO must have swapped them at some point. So if you were me, and were also too cheap to buy a set of gauges, would you mechanically sync them or just leave it? 8ender fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jun 15, 2009 |
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Jun 15, 2009 04:12
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8ender posted:So I unracked my carbs today to stop the fuel joints from leaking. Small world. quote:So if you were me, and were also too cheap to buy a set of gauges, would you mechanically sync them or just leave it? Leave it. If they perform worse than before, then try a bench sync.* *I'm the LAST person in C.A. who should be giving out carb tuning advice.
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Jun 15, 2009 05:14
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Bucephalus posted:Small world. I don't think I've owned an old bike that doesn't leak something. I'm riding this one into work now though and my co-workers have noticed that it smells like a refinery. The joints on mine don't even use O rings, they're just brass tubes with rubber "bumps" moulded on them. I added some O rings where the joint leaves the carb and squashed the whole thing back together. I'm hoping this cunning plan works out. 8ender fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jun 15, 2009 |
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Jun 15, 2009 05:25
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Hughmoris posted:Sweet looking bike. How tall are you, and what do you think of the ergonomics? I'm looking at joining the world of hypertouring, but I'm a little worried I won't be able to find something to fit me comfortably at 6'5". My friend is 6'5", and he rides a ZZR-1200 with a Corbin seat and handlebar risers. He seems to like it pretty well. I rode it once and it's definitely sized for bigger people.
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Jun 15, 2009 15:42
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Hughmoris posted:Sweet looking bike. How tall are you, and what do you think of the ergonomics? I'm looking at joining the world of hypertouring, but I'm a little worried I won't be able to find something to fit me comfortably at 6'5". I'm 6'4" and I ride, have been for 2 years. I find height less of a issue on a bike than on a car, at least you have no doors to interfere with your knees, and no roof to smash your head into. I always suggest dualsport bikes to people to learn on, they're easier to manuvoure around than a sports bike, brilliant seating postion, brilliant visibility, only downside is that they can be too tall for some people. Big touring bikes can have similar seating positions, so if you're looking for a big bike, look at the big BMW GSes. The problem with stating your height and asking about bikes is that some people have different proportions. I've got quite a long torso, but even so, I've never found a bike I can't flatfoot. You'll probably run into more problems with sitting right in the wind.
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Jun 15, 2009 18:28
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BlueBayou posted:So i think I may have caused more issues. yay Go get angry at the shop. They should have noticed that.
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Jun 15, 2009 18:33
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Z3n posted:Go get angry at the shop. They should have noticed that. Yeah.... i feel like getting mad will just be a losing battle. I'll just have to take it somewhere else next time.
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Jun 15, 2009 19:55
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BlueBayou posted:Yeah.... i feel like getting mad will just be a losing battle. I'll just have to take it somewhere else next time. Give them the chance to make it right, at least. They should do it for free.
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Jun 15, 2009 19:56
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Z3n posted:Give them the chance to make it right, at least. They should do it for free. Yes, do this. If they're dicks then get mad. This is a busy time of year for motorcycle mechanics and they may have just overlooked it.
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Jun 15, 2009 20:00
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8ender posted:Yes, do this. If they're dicks then get mad. This is a busy time of year for motorcycle mechanics and they may have just overlooked it. Well I already fixed it myself. And it made me feel sssooo SO SOOOOOOO good to finally be able to fix a problem on my bike.
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Jun 15, 2009 21:15
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There's a lot going on in this thread. I'll try this again. Basically, how different are petcocks in the GS line. I have a GS750L, but I haven't seen any petcocks that specifically list this model (just the GS750E). Will it be the same petcock, and if I'm replacing the whole thing, do I need to worry about getting the same model anyway?orthod0ks posted:Well, I finally got my bike back from the shop... 2 weeks, $700 and a poo poo ton of work later, I have a fully functional bike. Apparently it wasn't taken very good care of. Just about everything needed fixed - rebuilt carbs, replaced spark plugs, repaired break, throttle and clutch cables, oil change, air filter replacement (there wasn't even a real air filter in it - it was a cut piece of purifier filter), petcock repair and a state inspection.
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Jun 16, 2009 00:03
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Apparently LN and N petcocks are the same, and it's a different petcock any other year. Just get a petcock kit off ebay and replace all the parts inside. If it's riveted together, grind the rivets off and then drill/tap/insert screws where the rivets used to be so you can do any repairs in the future more easily. You can probably also pull a petcock off any GS through 1150 and use that. They might have different knobs/faces, but the place where it bolts up looks to be the same shape and size and all that. bobula fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 01:14
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bobula posted:Apparently LN and N petcocks are the same, and it's a different petcock any other year. Just get a petcock kit off ebay and replace all the parts inside. If it's riveted together, grind the rivets off and then drill/tap/insert screws where the rivets used to be so you can do any repairs in the future more easily. How big of a difference would the year make? I see lots for 1980+ but not much listed for earlier (my bike is a '79).
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Jun 16, 2009 02:27
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8ender posted:So I unracked my carbs today to stop the fuel joints from leaking. It was annoying me enough to go through the horrible task. Luckily the way the rocker arms are designed on my KZ I was able to pull it off without ruining the current sync adjustments. Well I managed to add some fresh O rings, removed the solder and coated the cracked overflow tubes with JBWeld, and put everything back together. They aren't leaking gas anymore but I think I've either messed with the sync and/or sealed up some air leaks and changed the fueling. Its a little rougher than before. Also seems to be a little down on power in the mid range and up on power at the top end.
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Jun 16, 2009 19:08
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Over the past few weeks, as I've been fixing up my old ex500, I noticed that the gas tank was missing a few bolts around the cap. I wasn't really surprised to find that it had rusted while I worked on the rest of the bike, so I ordered a rust removal and sealant kit from POR-15 (please tell me this kind of treatment actually works). I prepped the tank for cleaning today, and it seems the lock is now stuck. It only turns about 3/4 of the way, and subsequently won't open the cap. Am I hosed, or is there a way to lube/force the lock open without breaking anything? If not, it's not a big deal. A used tank looks to be about ~$70 on the ex500 forums. Has anyone had experience using aftermarket screw-on gas caps?
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Jun 17, 2009 22:07
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AncientTV posted:I prepped the tank for cleaning today, and it seems the lock is now stuck. It only turns about 3/4 of the way, and subsequently won't open the cap. Am I hosed, or is there a way to lube/force the lock open without breaking anything? If not, it's not a big deal. A used tank looks to be about ~$70 on the ex500 forums. Have you tried cleaning and oiling the lock? Just spray your solvent of choice into it, is what i'm saying. It could just be gunked up or something. Speaking of gas tanks though, I need one for a 91 Suzuki GS500. The bikes at my dads mechanics place, and he says that someone did the whole cleaning and coating. Apparently they did a poo poo job, as it's flaking off pretty badly. If I do end up getting a new gas tank instead of cleaning and resealing the inside(I've never done this before, so I don't know the ins and outs) are there any years of Suzuki bikes that a tank from them would fit? I'm looking at either eBay or a junkyard, I just want to increase the chances of finding a tank that would work.
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Jun 18, 2009 04:55
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/\/\/\ Hey, there you are! It's been almost a month, did it fire right up?
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Jun 18, 2009 05:27
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Somewhat! It defiantly ran a lot better after the new o-rings, but it still wouldn't run even close to well enough to ride. After more fiddling(And discovering that the choke was always on. You'd move the lever but the cable wouldn't do anything) I got it to idle. I was feeling pretty good! Sure it was leaking oil onto the exhaust pipe after it warmed up but it was. Then I gave it some gas and it would die on me. So I took apart the carbs again and put them back together THE RIGHT WAY, I began to grow more furious with my repair manual. I was looking for a ballpark to set the mixture screws at. Chapter three, the one all about cleaning the carbs, tells me it's set from the factory and NOT TO BE ADJUSTED, but if they need to be, you can find it in Chapter 8. I turn to chapter 8 and I find the paragraph. It says I can find this information in chapter 3. I read both of them so many times and couldn't find it. THen my computer fizzled out on me so I couldn't bug you guys about it. I just didn't know anymore and that combined with the fact that I was only on one foot, I just gave up. Sent it to my dads mechanic, who has it. So far hes found the gastank problem and that one of the carbs isn't pulling the fuel it should. I probably should have seen it through, but sometimes you just have to cut your losses and admit you really have little idea what you're doing. This brings another question to mind. The mixture screws. What does backing them out do, does it richen or lean out the mixture? This was bugging the hell out of me.
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Jun 18, 2009 05:54
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The mixture screws are the most important part of cleaning the carb. Backing them out, makes them richer. The idea is to seat them, and then reset them back to the factory position. The factory position is usually just about spot on for where it should be. It's the one setting they actually take the time to do right, and do right on each carb. There's a carb cleaning thread. You should read it.
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Jun 18, 2009 09:17
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Aha, so there is! It was hiding from me, way back on page 5! Seriously, who would have ever thought to look there? Evidence of my lack of knowledge/sheer stupidity non-withstanding, it seems getting a tank would require either a drive to Sacramento(And in my Jeep would most likely take an Chairon fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Jun 20, 2009 |
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Jun 20, 2009 07:17
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Sorry if this is too non-technical for the thread (I definitely didn't think it'd merit it's own post): I'm a filmmaker in Los Angeles looking to put together a trailer for a movie set in the 1950's. The movie has a ton of motorcycles involved. I want to make sure everything looks authentic/accurate in the trailer, but I'm having a tough time tracking down places that rent classic bikes for non-exorbitant prices. I read recently that the motorcycle in the new Indiana Jones movie was actually a modern bike (gussied up a bit to look more 50's I guess- I think the hero bike was a 2007 Harley Softail Springer Classic). Modern bikes are way easier and cheaper to rent, so I guess my question is: does anyone have any recommendations for modern bikes that could "pass" for vintage? It's for a trailer, so we're never going to be seeing the bikes super close or for an extended period of time-- I just need something with a convincingly old school "look" about it. Am I poo poo out of luck?
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Jun 20, 2009 23:08
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Sunny Sixkiller posted:Sorry if this is too non-technical for the thread (I definitely didn't think it'd merit it's own post): I'm a filmmaker in Los Angeles looking to put together a trailer for a movie set in the 1950's. The movie has a ton of motorcycles involved. I want to make sure everything looks authentic/accurate in the trailer, but I'm having a tough time tracking down places that rent classic bikes for non-exorbitant prices. Let me introduce you to my Thruxton:  Though technically a 60s design. I'd look out for Triumph's "Modern Classics" designs, particularly the Bonneville and Thruxton (again, technically based of '60s bikes but not that much different), and the less flashy Harley and Indian designs. You might also have some luck with Honda VT1100s and VT750s (ACE and Aero models specifically), as they're based on vintage cruiser designs. Alternately, depending on exactly what your setting is, you can try hunting down a vintage bike club (LA has a good brit bike club, though I don't know about other styles) and offering them a nominal fee to ride around in your background shot. OrangeFurious fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 20, 2009 |
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Jun 20, 2009 23:29
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I apologize if this doesn't fit here, but I figured it didn't belong in the MSF course thread, because in Alberta you can't take the test in the course anymore (Lame, I know right?). Anyways, I bought my first bike the other day, a 04 Kawasaki Ninja 500, and I'm looking to take my road test, and I'm looking for specific things NOT to do that they like to hit you up on (things like stopping ahead of the stop lines in cars). I'm taking my MSF course on July 7th, and was hoping to get the license before that so I don't get busted for driving illegally! So any tips would be much appreciated.. thanks!
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Jun 20, 2009 23:53
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