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I'm lucky enough to have a whole room for the rabbits, but not everyone can afford that luxury. You can easily have enough movable room if you go vertical as some people in this thread have(there are photos somewhere). I chose to have just larger open areas, but at one time Debbie was in a cube contraption that was 2x2x2...I'll see if I have a photo. Ok. Here you can see it next to the cage Murphy used to have:  Neither was close to an ideal size, but I upgraded them as they grew, and as I made more room for romping around. The 2x2 set-up was great for her because she's a small rabbit and really just chills out under the little platform 80% of the time, even now in her larger pen. If your little guy will be getting a lot of time to run around out of the cage, that should be plenty of space, and it only takes up a small corner of the room 
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Jun 22, 2009 21:35
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Whoa. So my uncle found yet another abandoned bun and gave it to my aunt. Currently she's been keeping the little guy in the backyard during the day, and lets him sleep in a cage in the garage at night (I was definitely against this setup, and tried to encourage her to move the bun into the living room with a proper 4x4 pen). The good news is that while he spends a load of time outdoors unsupervised, there's quite a bit of shade for him and little places to hide in. I'll keep trying to convince her to move the little guy indoors, but for now I'll just try to help make the garden as safe as possible for him. I'm keeping an eye out for poisonous plants and protruding nails, and making sure there's nice shaded areas and plenty of water. Also warned them about overheating and buns. Fortunately it's been very temperate here recently, so it shouldn't be too bad... I'll also get them to freeze bottles of water and set them on the ground. What's weird is that my aunt and her husband were convinced that the bun was a girl, because for some reason they believed the small fleshy mounds at his groinal region were teats. My extended family isn't very clever. 
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Jun 23, 2009 08:05
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So I have been following this thread for a while, and saw some of the amazing cages you guys have built, I was curious if anyone had a walk through on how to make one of them? I searched Google but none really looked like the one's people have been building in this thread, for the least amount of money. Thanks!
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Jun 23, 2009 21:36
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hmm i don't know why I cannot post my bunny's picture. she is a netherland dwarf and very small. I just got her a week ago. she is my first bunny so i do not have experience with her. can anyone tell me how much do they poop per day? it seems that my bunny poops a lot. I feel like she would poop every 10 minutes and each time about 5 poos. is it normal or not? she tries to eat my foods as well. I gave her a very little bit of avocado and chips, she liked them ;S. she also drinks coke. is it wrong to do that? just cos she was so cute when she asked for food :P thanks
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Jun 24, 2009 13:28
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Umm you really should have researched that a bit as they have very sensitive digestive systems and could drop dead from eating the wrong thing. (Exaggeration probably, but it's still very fast). If you'll actually read the thread there's a bunch of good links on what they should and should not eat. Let's start out by saying fresh vegetables are usually good and everything else is bad. Cola is bad for all living things. Yes they'll try to eat your food, but that doesn't mean you should actually give it to them. If I'm ever having ice cream, my rabbit will practically climb into my mouth to try and get some. Chips in particular seems to attract their attention, I've heard that from a bunch of rabbit owners already. But it's greasy and full of chemicals and will most likely give them diarrhoea. Yes they poop that much. I've nicknamed my rabbit "poo poo cannon". I've seen them produce piles of crap that seemed the same size as the actual rabbit. It's probably because they eat a lot of hay (I'm assuming you give it hay?)
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Jun 24, 2009 14:08
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penguin251 posted:hmm i don't know why I cannot post my bunny's picture. she is a netherland dwarf and very small. I just got her a week ago. she is my first bunny so i do not have experience with her. can anyone tell me how much do they poop per day? it seems that my bunny poops a lot. I feel like she would poop every 10 minutes and each time about 5 poos. is it normal or not? she tries to eat my foods as well. I gave her a very little bit of avocado and chips, she liked them ;S. she also drinks coke. is it wrong to do that? just cos she was so cute when she asked for food :P Use waffleimages. 1. Bunnies poop a lot, yes. 2. Avocado = fatty. Bad. Chips = fatty. Bad. Coke = sugar. Can be fatal. Too many sugars and starches can cause overgrowth of gut bacteria and lead to fatal GI stasis. 3. Let her have as much Timothy hay as you can (alfalfa if she's still a baby). She should also get plenty of fresh veggies, but the thing to look out for is too much starch/sugar (makes 'em fat and can lead to stasis), too much calcium (kidney stones), too many oxalates (can build up over time and become toxic). 4. Keep her indoors. Keeping her outside (especially during the summer when it's super hot out) can be fatal. Don't skimp on your bunny's health and don't half-rear end it.
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Jun 24, 2009 15:54
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penguin251 posted:hmm i don't know why I cannot post my bunny's picture. she is a netherland dwarf and very small. I just got her a week ago. she is my first bunny so i do not have experience with her. can anyone tell me how much do they poop per day? it seems that my bunny poops a lot. I feel like she would poop every 10 minutes and each time about 5 poos. is it normal or not? she tries to eat my foods as well. I gave her a very little bit of avocado and chips, she liked them ;S. she also drinks coke. is it wrong to do that? just cos she was so cute when she asked for food :P As the others said, yes, it's wrong to give soda and chips(really??) to a rabbit. Simply don't eat food around them. When mine are out, it's always before or after a meal to prevent sneaky bunnies from stealing food. Debbie found a peanut M&M under the sofa once and ate half of it before I found out. She didn't die, but you never know what will happen or when, and it sucks to sit at the E-vet awaiting that $500 charge for x-rays and exams.
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Jun 24, 2009 19:54
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Windy posted:As the others said, yes, it's wrong to give soda and chips(really??) to a rabbit. Simply don't eat food around them. When mine are out, it's always before or after a meal to prevent sneaky bunnies from stealing food. Debbie found a peanut M&M under the sofa once and ate half of it before I found out. She didn't die, but you never know what will happen or when, and it sucks to sit at the E-vet awaiting that $500 charge for x-rays and exams. I discovered that Bowser liked chocolate when I found her on the coffee table attacking a Snickers bar.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:38
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yes Mabel have lots of hay and pellets every morning. she can eat as much hay as she wants. she stays in stay as well and I let her run out all time, she has her own room. I also bought some toys for her but it seems that she doesnt care about her toys. she runs, jumps a lot. sometimes she stands up. after having a bit of coke the other day, she became really excited which really scared me. do their poos smell? mine is a bit like chickens poos smell. today was the first time I smelled her bottom :S
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Jun 25, 2009 08:32
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Are there any disease worries about keeping a bunny and a chicken in the same general area (provided they both have personal space)? I'm trying to give them both a bigger space, and it would be a LOT easier to do so if they both had individual hidey-hole areas and a larger shared area. They get along perfectly, I'm just concerned about possible sickness.
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Jun 25, 2009 20:01
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Restricting the free-roam area for my rabbit to just a single room when I let him out of his cage has helped a lot with potty training it seems. When I am ready to let him roam, I open his cage and I tap on his litter box which he knows to jump in to and then I lift the box up with him in it and carry it to my room. I set him down in the box, gate off the door, and then he can run around the room to his hearts content and still have a litter box to use that he's familiar with. So far so good, he has been peeing in the box when he has to go. I've let him run for 1-2 hours a day in my room while I'm working or playing a game. I've tried playing various games with him, using balls, towels, string, cardboard boxes, and he doesn't seem too interested in anything. He doesn't like to be touched really, but he'll let me stroke his forehead and cheeks all day long while he hugs the ground. He found a new place to lounge when he gets tired from all the zipping around the room and under the bed! I'll have to try not to roll over him. Edit - bonus picture! 
The Shep fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jun 29, 2009 |
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Jun 25, 2009 23:47
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Is there really no write ups for a cheap decent size (tall) bunny cage?
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Jun 26, 2009 00:48
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fyallm posted:Is there really no write ups for a cheap decent size (tall) bunny cage? There's not much to it, but give me your specs and I can walk you through it. What footprint are you looking to fill, and how tall? Keep in mind that the grids are 14" by 14" so the dimensions should be multiples of that. Also consider that in general, rabbits prefer horizontal space to vertical space, especially larger breeds. A simple pen style cage would be 28"x56" (2 grids by 4 grids) and 28" high, for instance. I posted a mockup of one here, just subtract the central section that sticks out in the middle.
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Jun 26, 2009 00:56
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Hey alucinor- Murphy(the mini-lop) has a small hard lump on the inside of his ear, it resembles a pimple. Nothing is red or irritated and he doesn't seem to notice or scratch at it. I don't see any mites or anything either. Have you ever seen anything on your rescues? I'll take him to the vet, but it has to wait a week or two because we had a money-suck event happen last week. Are ear pimples emergency worthy in your experience? Internet search has not been helpful.
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Jun 26, 2009 06:35
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Windy posted:ear pimples emergency Does he ever go outside for extended periods of time? If so, worst case would be a botfly, which I have seen even in well-supervised rabbits which spend time outside. That I would consider worthy of an emergency visit! More likely would be sebaceous cyst, AKA pimple, which I have never myself treated on an emergency basis. We've typically only even found them incident to other visits ("oh yeah and he also has this cyst here"). Obviously keep an eye on it, watch for changes in the lump or in behavior/eating/pooping, and call your vet if any concerns. Depending on how much your vet loves you, you can maybe try to email a picture to him and see if he'll give you a thumbs up or thumbs down on waiting a week. Most vets are pretty cool about that as long as you aren't asking for a diagnosis, just a "right now or a little later" type judgment.
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Jun 26, 2009 14:46
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He hasn't been outside in the last two years since the complex sprays ferts or repellents without notice. I'll call the vet later then and see if I can't pick his brain for a few minutes, or try to get the cost knocked down on bringing Murphy in since it's not for a full exam.
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Jun 26, 2009 16:28
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Deceptor101 posted:Check it out: http://playingwithmadness.com/blog/?p=49 Was thinking about making something like this next week, But I noticed that it doesn't say what to make for the ramps to each floor?
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Jun 26, 2009 20:48
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fyallm posted:Was thinking about making something like this next week, But I noticed that it doesn't say what to make for the ramps to each floor? You don't need ramps. They can easily hop 14" to the next level, ramps just create unusable space. Edit: I will warn you of one thing: Target has changed their grids. The black, white, and colored boxes of grids now contain some grids which are 8 squares by 8 squares, and some which are 5 squares by 5. These openings are too large and are unsafe to use. Count the squares on the box picture or open the box to be sure you're getting the 9 by 9s. Alternatively, check the chrome grids - they are almost always still 9 by 9. Edit2: Nice write up, Deceptor! alucinor fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jun 26, 2009 |
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Jun 26, 2009 21:01
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Booked Ellie in for her spaying in 2 weeks time. Kinda worried about it because she's an extremely nervous rabbit around anyone but me  Needs to be done though and they're not keeping her overnight, i'm dropping her in at 8.30am and picking her up in the evening, so i guess that's something. What's the procedure for recovery with spayings anyway? Will she be up and about fairly soon afterward or will it put her out of sorts for a few days?
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Jun 26, 2009 22:28
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alucinor posted:You don't need ramps. They can easily hop 14" to the next level, ramps just create unusable space. Just as an alternate viewpoint - I originally made my first "cube condo" without ramps and my rabbit did not once jump the 14" to the top shelf. When I later physically put him on the top level he was almost scared to jump down. He scooted to the edge of the level and paused as he looked down and assessed where he was going to land. I use ramps and "steps" in my condo now so the rabbit can safely access all 3 levels. I put a 14x14 grid about halfway up between the first and 2nd levels so he has a half-way point to jump to before hitting the 2nd level and he likes it. For making the ramps, I angled 2 grids at about 35 degrees and clipped them to the cage using binder clips and zip ties. And yes - be careful about the Target grids, I bought a box and put the whole thing together and watched in horror as my rabbit walked right through the 5x5 grids. I had no idea at the time and had to dismantle it and go out and check THREE targets before I finally found one that had the 8x8 grids, but this time the box had about half 8x8's and half 5x5's. I couldn't find any boxes that were all 8x8's, so I had to do the best I could and use the 5x5's as floors and covers and the 8x8's for walls.
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Jun 27, 2009 00:00
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spudsbuckley posted:Booked Ellie in for her spaying in 2 weeks time. Kinda worried about it because she's an extremely nervous rabbit around anyone but me I had a girl spayed who I had for a few months. She was very small and nervous as well, but she was fine. The vet staff are usually experienced and know how to handle them carefully. Basically, you just check the stitches everyday and make she's not eating them. Infection is the biggest concern. Let us know how she does
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Jun 27, 2009 01:51
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alucinor posted:. I really wish I had kept this in mind when I started 'rebuilding' recently. They were always unhappy so I said gently caress it and just made it into a giant open cage with lots of boxes to hide in and things to play with. They've never been happier. Anyone ever had problems with them getting sore hocks from walking on just the corrugated plastic floors? Our vet has been saying she doesn't see it so much of a problem, especially since they usually have some kind of sheet or something on most of the floor but both of them have had small ones appear. I suppose I should be thankful I went over a year without any vet problems but recently they're costing me an arm and a leg. My vet has started feeling sorry for me and keeps giving me discounts. Also Cmdr. Shepard that is the cutest rabbit I have ever seen.
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Jun 28, 2009 20:28
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Aw look at that it's been a few months but Sprout and Dodger lie down together and she'll give a few licks of grooming to him now and then. They even flop down around each other and can go HOURS in the living room, with each other eating from the same hay dish and using the same litterboxes, and Sprout doesn't mind when Dodger does his mad sprinting laps around the living room. Oh look at that Dodger apparently had a bad day and picked a fight with Sprout and now we have TWO HANDFULS OF rear end FUR that's been gnawed and nipped at, back to square one! gently caress YOU BUNS, YOU'RE LUCKY YOU'RE CUTE! 
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Jun 29, 2009 21:53
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So my friend's little sister bought a bunny from Earl May a while back and shortly decided that he was "boring" and left him home when she moved out. Their mother got stuck with taking care of it, and really doesn't have much interest in bunnies. She's looking to give him away and I offered to take him since he's living in a tiny cage and eating terrible food (Wal-Mart rabbit mix.) Also because bunnies are awesome. I'd love to make him a wire cube cage, but the local Target doesn't seem to carry them so I'll have to shop around. That link to the how-to looks great, it'll be the first thing I do. I'll post some pictures when I bring him home, although he looks a lot like Cmdr. Shepard's bunny. e: Well nevermind. Little sister decided she wants to keep the bunny even though she's never home and doesn't look twice at it while she is.
Shiny Penny fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jul 9, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 19:22
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Paterson was trying to flop into that "oh my god my rabbit is dead" deep sleep but did it too close to the edge of the carpet. He rolled off the edge and tranced himself. doing things like that are just symptoms of his retardation... poor boy   Bitsy trying to revive him with CPR. Bless her soul.
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Jul 1, 2009 22:18
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I should not be laughing nearly that hard at that image of Paterson, but I am. Alucinor (and anyone else), I've read through everything you've said about guinea pigs and bunnies, and lets say I don't have a choice (moving in with gf, she has 4 pigs) I assume keep them in another room and ideally the pig's cage off the ground? The buns will be roaming and most likely the pigs will just stay in their palace. This can work right? (she also has a min-pin terrier mix (who gets very happy to sniff and lick the pigs when they're out) that I'm going to be watching like a hawk.) Anyone have any ideas how I can make this as un-stressful and healthy as possible?  Note the disapproving and unsure looks of these guys.
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Jul 2, 2009 01:23
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Deceptor101 posted:guinea pigs and bunnies It'll work fine. The trouble comes primarily from very close contact, where aerosolized rabbit respiratory exudate and/or urine & feces are constantly bombarding the pigs. Just don't let them have actual contact with one another, and if you put the pigs down for floor time, just put down a blanket so the pigs can't eat rabbit poops or lick urine spills, and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Jul 2, 2009 14:31
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alucinor posted:You don't need ramps. They can easily hop 14" to the next level, ramps just create unusable space. We got the squares from target, and are using the 5x5 ones as the floor and the 8x8s as the wall coverings like shepard is doing because that is all the targets around us had.. right now we are just going to do a 2x2 setup.. I am still a little confused about what to use from 1 level to another.. I don't understand the steps method. Also I am reading up on litterbox training and so far the links and writeups I have found are just saying to put it in and they will figure it out, that doesn't make much sense..
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Jul 5, 2009 00:11
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fyallm posted:I am still a little confused about what to use from 1 level to another.. I don't understand the steps method. The steps method just add's another "level" that is halfway between the 1st and 2nd floors so your rabbit only has to jump 7" inches instead of the full 14" to the top of the 2nd level.  This is the best way I can illustrate, but I can post pictures of my setup if you need. This will make it easier for smaller rabbits to access the 2nd level, in my opinion.
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Jul 5, 2009 07:35
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fyallm posted:I am still a little confused about what to use from 1 level to another.. I don't understand the steps method. How many levels do you have? I can do a 2x2 mockup showing where to place intermediate levels if you can ms-paint or take a pic of what you have so far. Also, you say you're using the 5x5s as the floor? What's on top of the floor grids? You don't want them standing directly on the grids (mostly because it'll be a bitch to clean); most of these cages don't have grids on the floor at all, the cage is an open-bottomed box which sits on some plastic like this, or some people with very clean rabbits and linoleum floors just put it on the floor like this. fyallm posted:Also I am reading up on litterbox training and so far the links and writeups I have found are just saying to put it in and they will figure it out, that doesn't make much sense.. Why does it not make sense? They're like cats, they will naturally choose one place to go to the bathroom, and prefer to do it in a box with absorbent material in it rather than right on the floor. The best things you can do to help them figure it out is 1) offer 2 spacious, rectangular boxes (most rabbits will not use the triangle shaped boxes), and 2) put their hayrack right over one of the boxes like this, as many rabbits prefer to eat and poop at the same time.
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Jul 5, 2009 16:51
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I got two rabbits a week ago! We've been doing great, thanks. I have an orange bunny, Camille, who is about 2 - 3 months old, and a black bunny, Pepper, who is 4 - 5 months old. Both are spayed by the Humane Society. Seriously, I wouldn't leave a rabbit in tact for anything. I read through the whole thread twice, I've been all over rabbit.org, and I've owned bunnies before. I do have a couple of questions, though: Pepper does okay with the litter box. Pees in there constantly, but will pile some of her poops up in a separate area. Camille pees in the box, out of the box, on her digging blankie, wherever she can. She's isolated it to two spots or so in her cage. I'm thinking she might just want two boxes, and I'm going to go to Meijer as soon as my car is fixed and get her two higher, bigger litter boxes. I guess Pepper gets two boxes, too, then. Think that'll help? Anything else I can do for them right now? Their litter is just newspaper sheets, plus the leaves from their alfalfa hay that they don't like eating. Their cages are cube cages divided down the center, and each rabbit gets 28 by 42 inches approx., which will naturally double when they bond and I take the divider out. That's enough for them to figure out litter boxes, right? I have no problem expanding if it isn't. I might also get those hay racks that you guys have and hang them in the boxes to encourage box pooping. Magazine racks, you say they were? We're doing stupidly well on bonding right now. We've been doing tub dates since Thursday, and Camille is already grooming Pepper. However, Camille keeps shoving her nose under Pepper to demand grooming, and Pepper won't do it. Camille loves pettings from humans so much that I'm really hoping she gets the snuggles and grooming from Pepper that I know she wants. I'm going to buy some banana on my next grocery run to rub on Camille's head. Think Pepper will ever concede and groom Camille?
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Jul 5, 2009 20:29
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Don't worry, Bean. I didn't think for the life of me that Chunk would ever groom Euler, and then one day they were (somewhat magically) the best of friends, with Chunk all over Euler's head. I think this was definitely helped along by the amount of treats I continually put on her head. I think that Chunk now believes that Euler magically springs raisins out of her noggin when he is in proximity. This morning I was awake for a few minutes around 4 a.m. It was long enough for Euler to jump up onto the bed, land on my face, and flounce off the other side. I couldn't be mad, I didn't really have any idea what had just happened. 
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Jul 5, 2009 21:41
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Scooty Puff Jr. posted:This morning I was awake for a few minutes around 4 a.m. It was long enough for Euler to jump up onto the bed, land on my face, and flounce off the other side. Yeah, I sometimes let a bun have a 'sleepover' in my room overnight so they can have a little more playtime. That stopped when I found out that having a ~10 pound rabbit (Frith) land on your face and then madly scrabble in panic is really not an experience I ever want to have again. Zen just hops on top of me, gets scooted off, hops on top of me, gets scooted off, hops on top of me... you see the pattern. All night.
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Jul 6, 2009 00:09
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alucinor posted:How many levels do you have? I can do a 2x2 mockup showing where to place intermediate levels if you can ms-paint or take a pic of what you have so far. Not sure how many levels we will have, I am just making it now, we haven't decide on how many. We are going to use carpet scraps to put ontop of the grids. And I guess it doesn't make sense because I have never owned a cat always dogs, and am just use to potty training them to go outside, sorry.. Again I apologize for my lack of rabbit knowledge, my girlfriend is the one with her, and I am trying to learn as much as I can quickly, and I have never had cats, just a dogs, and a guinea pig when I was really young. Thanks again for all the help!
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Jul 6, 2009 01:08
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You're doing fine, nothing to be sorry about. Just trying to make sure how best to explain this in a helpful fashion, instead of just making everything even more confusing. Carpet on the upper levels is fine, if it's not very stiff just place some cardboard under it to make sure it's stiff enough that bunny can't poke it down and slip a leg through. But you might find that the bunny occasionally pees on the carpet on the lower level (where the litter boxes are), and you'd also need to be sure to replace the carpet if he starts pulling it up. So between these two things, you want to make sure it's not hard to get the carpet out for replacement. A non-porous plastic surface laid under the cage, with easily removable carpet rugs laid on top, might work easier. If you're going to do a 2 by 2, that should easily fit on top of one of those plastic floor protectors they make to protect carpets from desk chairs. With a 2 by 2 she's already limited as to how much open space she has, so you might skip using grids as "steps". Check out this cage. The bottom level is 2x3, the second level is the same size, so it's 6 grids laid out in a 2x3 rectangle but with one grid removed. Instead of a ramp or stair-step, the rabbit has her hidy house halfway under the opening. She could jump from the bottom level to the top of the house to the second level with no problem. In your case, for a 2x2, you'd just lay out 3 grids in an L-shape and connect them, then zip them to the walls as a full second level. Put the space with the missing grid in front next to the door, to give you more access to reach in to both levels. If the bunny doesn't have a hidy house, you can use a paving stone or cinderbrick (like 80 cents at the hardware store) and you've nearly doubled her usable space without clogging up too much of it with a stair-stepping or ramp system.
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Jul 6, 2009 14:58
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This thread needs more Albert Hopmann Edit: luscious posted:Paterson was trying to flop into that "oh my god my rabbit is dead" deep sleep but did it too close to the edge of the carpet. He rolled off the edge and tranced himself. hahaha awesome
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Jul 6, 2009 16:53
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alucinor posted:Carpet on the upper levels is fine, if it's not very stiff just place some cardboard under it to make sure it's stiff enough that bunny can't poke it down and slip a leg through. But you might find that the bunny occasionally pees on the carpet on the lower level (where the litter boxes are), and you'd also need to be sure to replace the carpet if he starts pulling it up. So between these two things, you want to make sure it's not hard to get the carpet out for replacement. A non-porous plastic surface laid under the cage, with easily removable carpet rugs laid on top, might work easier. If you're going to do a 2 by 2, that should easily fit on top of one of those plastic floor protectors they make to protect carpets from desk chairs. We are thinking about using her prior cage bottom as the base.. It looks kind of like this cage:  But that is not set in stone, we are seeing which way is better, we might just switch to the 2x3 option you gave. The carpet shouldn't be a problem because it is an old rug, so each strand of carpet is really tight so I dont think she will be picking at it. And cardboard or plastic underneath it, is a very good idea, and something I haven't thought about!! And she doesn't have a hiding house right now, so we might either go get her one, or do the cinder block option. Thanks again! fyallm fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jul 6, 2009 |
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Jul 6, 2009 17:57
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fyallm posted:We are thinking about using her prior cage bottom as the base. All the superpet cages are way too small, you'd be better going with a 2x2 on top of cardboard, although a 2x3 would be even better. Also, if you want to make an easy-to-remove roof, you can go to a hardware store and pick up some Closetmaid shelving - 16" Superslide works best - two pieces of that runs about $12 and makes a perfect hinged cover. Just zip tie them together in the middle and lay over the cage. If you do a 2x3, two pre-cut 4' pieces are perfect; if you're doing a 2x2, that's 28" long, so ask if they can custom cut a longer piece down into two 30" lengths (you need the extra couple inches so it's sturdy). Also, a cardboard box is a great, cheap, easily replaceable hidy house! I like to use the boxes that reams of paper come in, the local office supply store always has a few that they'll give me for free. Buns love to strip the paper off them, too, making them a cheap toy.
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Jul 7, 2009 14:58
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I haven't posted my bunny in here, so I decided to now. She is a French lop that is 5 months old. I want to adopt a Dwarf bun for her, but I haven't found the right one yet. Here's Bella!    I just remodeled her cage. I put in some placemats I found at walmart and sewed them together. Would just Carefresh in her cage work though? Or is some sort of carpet/rug necessary for the bottom.
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Jul 7, 2009 15:27
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PumpkinPirate posted:Would just Carefresh in her cage work though? Or is some sort of carpet/rug necessary for the bottom. Don't use bedding anywhere but in her litterbox, otherwise she'll never learn to be litter trained. Lining the entire cage isn't necessary, but most people do like to give them at least one soft thing to lay on. Rugs, carpet sample squares, grass mats, towels, etc; but the majority of the cage bottom can certainly be bare.
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Jul 7, 2009 16:07
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