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Jabs posted:The bike bug is starting to nibble around the edges of my brain. My sweetie has an '83 Yamaha Maxim 400, and we're starting to toy with the idea of having two bikes - so I thought I'd ask some questions of the smartest, most passionate group of people I happen to know on the internet for their thoughts on the matter. If you like the look of the BMWs (sigtrap's bike is a BMW F800 ST) you could look at BMW F650 GS. There are models out there with a lowered frame which I'd expect you could flatfoot even with a 30" inseam. They're a tad pricey for a first bike (around 4-6K used) though, and even though it's an off road bike dropping it will prove expensive quickly. Suzuki DR650s can be lowered by installing lowering links and pushing some of the forks up through the triple trees. I know of one girl in Colorado that rides a bunch of the hardcore mountain passes on one of these and she's 4'10" but a very skilled rider. What I'd recommend though is a pair of Yamaha XT-225s. They're crazy cheap, very simple to do work maintenance on and rather reliable. They're also short but have good ground clearance. They're not stylish, fancy or fast but they'll get you around the city just fine (while achieving incredible mpg) and as long as you avoid I-70 and I-25 you can travel anywhere else you need to go in the state on them. They'll be light enough to pick up when you drop them and the light weight will work well on dirt roads. Buy some nice Wolfman bags for the bag and fit a larger gas tank and you've got two very cheap Colorado Adventure bikes. I'm in Denver and do a fair bit of dual sport riding, if you'd like to talk sometime over beers drop me a PM.
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Jun 21, 2009 21:58
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What's a fair price for a 2004 Ninja 250R with 2218 miles if it's in good condition. I don't actually know the condition, as I haven't seen the bike, but assuming it's running and nothing needs serious work.
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Jun 22, 2009 15:25
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I should stop going onto Craigslist because I've now found one of my dream bikes, BMW K75, right in my own drat neighbourhood.
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Jun 22, 2009 19:42
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NoCleverName posted:What's a fair price for a 2004 Ninja 250R with 2218 miles if it's in good condition. I don't actually know the condition, as I haven't seen the bike, but assuming it's running and nothing needs serious work. I'm in LA, and I paid 1800 for my 2004 with just under 10k on the clock. I think I overpaid a bit based on the overall condition of the bike as I know it to be now. Its my first, however, and I'm ok with that being part of the learning experience. It was dropped once (slight cosmetic damage on right side, all broken parts were replaced before I bought it), and was probably stored improperly, based on the ring of rust in the tank, along with the silt at the bottom. Had a new rear tire and brake pads, front tire lasted another ~500 miles before I had it replaced. I think it was the original on the bike. Same with the front brakes. Also needed a new cam chain tensioner, though that's not common. I may have also been fleeced on that last part by the shop, but I needed the bike back badly. With only 2200 miles on it over 5 years, you should be aware of things that happen when the bike sits for long periods of time. Rust in the tank is possible, gummed up carbs are possible, and if the tires are original they are approaching the end of their recommended life (about 5 years). Depending on where you are and how/where the bike was stored, other rubber bits may or may not be deteriorating. Things like the dust seals on the forks. Mine are just starting to look a little cracked/dry rotted. The chain would probably be fine whether it was ever lubed or not, though give it a look anyway. If the rear sprocket's teeth are bent to one side, if the rear tire doesn't rotate freely all the way around the chain, in neutral on the center stand, the chain may need replacement. If you haven't already, check out ninja250.org. Its a really intensive resource for the 250. Their value estimator puts that bike, assuming perfect condition, around $2100, for what its worth. That was a bit long, but I would personally pay up to about $1700-1800 for a pristine 2004 EX250 outside of Southern CA, and maybe up to 2k for an excellent example in CA. That's just me, I may be a bit off. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jun 22, 2009 |
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Jun 22, 2009 21:52
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sirbeefalot posted:That was a bit long, but I would personally pay up to about $1700-1800 for a pristine 2004 EX250 outside of Southern CA, and maybe up to 2k for an excellent example in CA. That's just me, I may be a bit off. Agreed, this seems like fair valuation to me. A bit less if it's damaged/been down, and maybe up to around 2200$ if it's in perfect condition with brand new tires, new chain/sprocket, clean enough to eat off of, and he's got complete service records.
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Jun 22, 2009 23:13
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Tell me about the Yamaha Raider! The dealership by me has the 08 models marked down pretty significantly, and the wife fully approves of my aspiration to buy a brand new shiny object for myself (I just got her on her first bike and she is 3 weeks in and completely obsessed)... For a while (since Sturgis last year, haha) I've been telling myself that my next bike will be a Softail of some sort, but my current 14 year old Kawasaki looks like it might not make it long enough to have the money to afford a Harley. Enter Raider at about $4000 under MSRP, it's lighter and it looks amazing. Looks pretty much along the same lines as my BUBF Vulcan, but more modern and way sexier. I also like the thought of an overdrive gear, something the Vulcan sadly lacks, making it a little obnoxious for me over 80 for long stretches. I understand that this is a new model, but does anyone have any experience with one of these suckers? Do they have any common issues? Ride problems? Gremlins? I sat on one at the last motorcycle expo in Seattle, and it was by far the most comfortable model for me that Yamaha had there. I've pretty much decided to get one, barring any major mechanical/electrical issues.
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Jun 23, 2009 00:53
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Possible first bike spotted. 1981 GS650 that "RUNS GOOD" with 17k miles on it. He's asking $900. This would technically be my second bike but I didn't ride the first one very much and that was a few years ago. So I feel like I'm starting fresh and I need an appropriately powered bike. I'm going to check it out tomorrow. Anything I should watch out for when I see it? All I really want is a cheap bike that's not too tough to maintain and will run for a few years.
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Jun 24, 2009 04:05
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Just chiming in for some GS love, I put ~40 miles on mine tonight. That's a lot of riding, considering over 27 years it's averaged 305 miles per year  I believe the 550 and the 650 are very very similar engines (he 650 has ~73hp to my ~49, and the overall weight is pretty much spot on) and I have to say I LOVE the way this engine screams If it indeed "runs good", $$$ will still rack up quick. Let's just say I bought my '82 gs550L for $400, and it had HALF the miles the one you're looking at has and was always garaged...and I've already put another $330 into it just in parts : tires, fork seals, oils/filters, rear shocks, and some general cleaning products. I think everyone here had very good advice about what to expect as far as getting a cheap bike to fix up or maintain: even a free bike ends up costing about $1000.
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Jun 24, 2009 04:53
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clutchpuck posted:Tell me about the Yamaha Raider! I don't know anymore about them than you do but they are big rear end nice bikes and they sit very nice. edit: where are you with the great deals on Raiders? The dealership here is overflowing with bikes and has no interest in making them go away, except for the dirtbikes which are $1 over invoice.  Let me ask you something about Sturgis, I was there years ago for their 50th and the climate seemed pretty hostile toward metric bikes, has that changed at all? I would like to go again and ride in this time. wormil fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jun 24, 2009 |
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Jun 24, 2009 05:15
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wormil posted:I don't know anymore about them than you do but they are big rear end nice bikes and they sit very nice. I am in Western WA, about 30 mi outside of Seattle. They actually moved the $9999 Raider I was drooling over last week. I am keeping that model in mind, but I am also looking at used H-D Softails (highest preference), Road Kings, Electra Glides as well as new Yama Road Stars and Roadliners in the same price range. Since I don't like Blue bikes, picken's seem to be slim. As for Sturgis, last year when I went (their 68th), metrics were fairly common but obviously way less so than H-Ds. I even saw a few other BUBF Vulcans like mine. But it is still very much Harley-centric. I'll tell you one thing though,  I hope this guy got plenty poo poo on.
clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jun 24, 2009 |
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Jun 24, 2009 21:14
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clutchpuck posted:I'll tell you one thing though, Why? I know a couple of old timers who have switched to trikes due to bum backs/legs. One of them, who easily makes the top ten "toughest SOBs I've ever met" list, had to hang up his Road King when his leg folded backwards when he went to flat foot it. Mods like that are kind of like automatics in a sports car; either the driver shouldn't be behind the wheel, or is just no longer in possession of four fully functional limbs.
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Jun 24, 2009 21:48
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Barring some sort of handicap, those wheels reinforce some seriously poor riding habits. What happens when you forget to lower the gear in a parking lot? Down you go and I hope the lady on the 2 up still has strong bones.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:00
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UserNotFound posted:I am now a proud motorcycle owner I have a PDF or two for you. How can i put this.... I have five GS550's in my garage. I've owned seven. ;-) I know them pretty well. The stock GS550 chain IS an o-ring chain. Provided it was lubed and taken care of properly it may still have another 15k left in it. Just keep an eye on it. The dripping carbs mean you need a petcock rebuild kit. Those are $30. Anyone who thinks float valves shouldn't leak at all is dreaming. Of the things on a bike that die with non use, it's the vacuum petcock, and the forkseals. The air forks are a weird subject. The bike isn't dangerous wit the air out of the forks, but with air in them the bike rides much, much better. It also seems to help seal life! The brakes really aren't that bad on the bike. I can't tell you to do what I did because the GS550L and E frames are a little bit different. I put GS650 forks on my 550 to get dual brakes. :-) When you decide you want more power, there's a lot of options. It's not out of the question to get 85hp or more out of the bike. (yes, it starts with 49) And.. you're in indiana? You have no idea what goldmine you've just stepped into. The GSresources is strong in this area. There's a big contingent in indiana. Hell I drove by purdue this weekend. If you haven't yet. https://www.thegsresources.com You won't regret it. You should still clean the pilot screws. It's possable to get a bike running "ok" without doing so. But the difference between properly cleaned and set pilot screws and not is night and day. I thought things were pretty ok for the year before I figured that out. VTNewb posted:EDIT: What's the final word on running radial tires with tubes? Devonaut posted:Possible first bike spotted. 1981 GS650 that "RUNS GOOD" with 17k miles on it. He's asking $900. This would technically be my second bike but I didn't ride the first one very much and that was a few years ago. So I feel like I'm starting fresh and I need an appropriately powered bike. I'm going to check it out tomorrow. Anything I should watch out for when I see it? All I really want is a cheap bike that's not too tough to maintain and will run for a few years. As always, haggle. I'd bet you can get it for $800. It's close enough to the noob hp limit that I wouldn't balk. ;-) Especially since this is your return to riding. As usual, check the electrical system. I'd recommend checking the drive splines, but that requires removing the rear wheel. If the bike doesn't seem to have excessive driveline lash, just go with it.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:21
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Nerobro posted:As always, haggle. I'd bet you can get it for $800. It's close enough to the noob hp limit that I wouldn't balk. ;-) Especially since this is your return to riding. As usual, check the electrical system. I'd recommend checking the drive splines, but that requires removing the rear wheel. If the bike doesn't seem to have excessive driveline lash, just go with it. Thanks. It was actually in pretty good shape all things considered, he's done a lot of work on it. But it felt a little bulky to me. It's not the HP so much as the weight that bothers me about it, and it has some issues starting with the choke cable not working properly. I am tempted to get back in the saddle again, and the price is nice, but I'm going to wait for something a little better.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:30
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How are the Kawi GPZ series? This thing just showed up and that's actually a rather low price considering what I usually see in the listings. e: According to wiki the '82 GPz750 was pretty much a one-of, as they changed it again for 83. Phy fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jun 24, 2009 |
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Jun 24, 2009 22:58
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Well, the wiki also says it's based off the KZ750, which means that it has the same 738cc inline four that Kawasaki put into their bikes for about seventy billion years. Hell, I have that engine in my bike, and it rolled off the line in 2002.  I'd got at least take a look at it. The price seems a bit high, but then again, it's that time of the season where everyone wants a bike, so prices go up. If it does run fine, and doesn't need anything, $15-1600 probably wouldn't be unreasonable. Maybe a bit less if it needs new tyres.
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Jun 25, 2009 00:23
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Nerobro posted:I have a PDF or two for you. How can i put this.... I have five GS550's in my garage. I've owned seven. ;-) I know them pretty well. I got a PDF from repairmanualclub.com, and with your carb cleaning instructions, I should be about set for anything, but feel free to PM me without how to get that PDF from you, it can never hurt to have too much info. Nerobro posted:The stock GS550 chain IS an o-ring chain. Provided it was lubed and taken care of properly it may still have another 15k left in it. Just keep an eye on it. I just cleaned the chain with a brush and sprayed some lube on it before my 57 mile ride tonight, and everything still looks good. Nerobro posted:The dripping carbs mean you need a petcock rebuild kit. Those are $30. Anyone who thinks float valves shouldn't leak at all is dreaming. Of the things on a bike that die with non use, it's the vacuum petcock, and the forkseals. Nerobro posted:The air forks are a weird subject. The bike isn't dangerous wit the air out of the forks, but with air in them the bike rides much, much better. It also seems to help seal life! Nerobro posted:The brakes really aren't that bad on the bike. I can't tell you to do what I did because the GS550L and E frames are a little bit different. I put GS650 forks on my 550 to get dual brakes. :-) When you decide you want more power, there's a lot of options. It's not out of the question to get 85hp or more out of the bike. (yes, it starts with 49) I think I'm gonna keep it restoring to factory spec, maybe a change in bars at the most...for now...maybe at the end of next season once I have some miles under my belt I might look into the brake idea and a bit more power...but for now this bike is an absolute blast!! Nerobro posted:And.. you're in indiana? You have no idea what goldmine you've just stepped into. The GSresources is strong in this area. There's a big contingent in indiana. Hell I drove by purdue this weekend. If you haven't yet. https://www.thegsresources.com You won't regret it. gently caress yeah I'm in Indiana! I already joined GSResources, and have tickets with the group going to MotoGP in August. Bunch of great people over there that obviously love their GS's possibly even more than I love mine. Nerobro posted:You should still clean the pilot screws. It's possable to get a bike running "ok" without doing so. But the difference between properly cleaned and set pilot screws and not is night and day. I thought things were pretty ok for the year before I figured that out. I'm gonna clean out the carbs via your guide, since it HAS sat for 2.5 years. It's still having a tough time idling without a touch of choke, and it seems nigh impossible to start if I shut it of for just a few minutes... BTW, you're as awesome as a mesh jacket and modular helmet on a 92 degree afternoon.
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Jun 25, 2009 02:57
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Simkin posted:Well, the wiki also says it's based off the KZ750, which means that it has the same 738cc inline four that Kawasaki put into their bikes for about seventy billion years. Hell, I have that engine in my bike, and it rolled off the line in 2002. Guy's willing to take 16, and it seems to run ok. It kicked over nicely, shifted clean for the gears I was in, ran it up to about halfway up the rev range. It's certainly not pristine. Paint's dinged in several places, there's some rust in the tank, one of the carb air hoses is seated funny, one of the "clipons" (they might be stamped steel) is a bit loose, tail plastic is cracked. It's been down once, the rhs pipe and case are scuffed. Also, it's kawi green now but I believe it was born red. Tires look pretty reasonable if squarish, no cracking, as does most of the other rubber that I looked at. Don't have a service history but the guy he bought it from commuted on it often from out of town. Phy fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Jun 25, 2009 |
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Jun 25, 2009 04:41
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About the only service that I'd ask about (well, other than keeping the carbs clean, but that seems a non-issue, since he's been riding it consistantly) are the valves. The motor uses a shim-under-bucket design that's a bit of a pain to do your first time, and needs to be done every ~10k km (or at least inspected). The nice thing about that engine, is that it's pretty drat tractable at lower revs. It'll happily pull out of a corner at 2500rpm, or lug along on the highway at just a shade over 4k in top gear, doing 100km/h. Then when you really wind it out, it makes the most glorious noise.  The cosmetic issues seem pretty minor, as long as those aren't major sticking points for you. ABS fairings on pretty much any older bike will have weathered/aged to the consistency and strength of thin, frozen toffee, and will often have already failed at the mounting bolts. Fortunately, there's all sorts of guides online of how to fix them using soldering irons, or you could slap on some glass.
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Jun 25, 2009 06:50
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hm. I forgot to mention that the idiot light was blinking something about "CHARGE", and checking the built-in voltmeter showed that it was holding about 9 volts. What are my most likely and most ugly options there? (The voltmeter's insane, there's a secondary scale on the tachometer, and holding down a button on the console causes the tach needle to show voltage instead.)
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Jun 25, 2009 17:36
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Was it holding 9V while idling, while you were revving it up, or before you even started it up? That kind of determines what kind of problem it is.
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Jun 25, 2009 18:14
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Idling. I want to say it twitched a bit while revving but I can't be sure; I didn't check while I was on it.
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Jun 25, 2009 18:19
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Bikes won't charge up while idling, you need to be revving it. I think Z3n usually suggests 4-5k, or 30% or the rev range.
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Jun 25, 2009 18:23
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Yeah, having killed a battery myself, I do understand that; I'm just wondering why it might be low in the first place. It hasn't been stored for ages, since the current owner claims to have had it for all of a month for a road trip.
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Jun 25, 2009 18:26
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Well, it may just be an older battery that couldn't hold as much charge. Did he know when it had last been replaced?
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Jun 25, 2009 18:31
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Nah, he's got no clue about the service history. I'm almost tempted to see if I can get the previous owner's contact info.
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Jun 25, 2009 18:39
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Gr3y posted:Mods like that are kind of like automatics in a sports car; either the driver shouldn't be behind the wheel, or is just no longer in possession of four fully functional limbs.  
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Jun 25, 2009 18:55
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frozenphil posted:The shiver is so much cooler though. edit:
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Jun 25, 2009 19:03
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blugu64 posted:The shiver is so much cooler though. Isn't the Shiver just a Mana without the automatic transmission?
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Jun 25, 2009 19:54
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Phy posted:Nah, he's got no clue about the service history. I'm almost tempted to see if I can get the previous owner's contact info. Probably not a bad idea, especially if the current owner has no idea what's been done to it other than 'add gas/oil and go'
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Jun 25, 2009 20:00
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frozenphil posted:Isn't the Shiver just a Mana without the automatic transmission? Not really, the mana has an 850 rather then a 750, though I think it's got 20~ less hp, and weighs more. I can't remember but I think the mana has the gas tank mounted below the passenger seat too. edit: and is 50% less awesome 
blugu64 fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jun 25, 2009 |
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Jun 25, 2009 20:12
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UserNotFound posted:I got a PDF from repairmanualclub.com, The PDF I have is just the factory manual. Nothing special. I have the paper versions. Don't worry about replacing the anti friction material. The bits ARE availble, but unless you're fork is all lose and sloppy don't worry about it. Definitely replace the bars. Get something that's comfy for you, and seeing that you have an L, you don't need to replace any cables. You'll be in shock at how easy the thing starts, and idles after a proper carb cleaning. And I appreciate the compliment. :-)
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Jun 26, 2009 07:05
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Nerobro posted:You'll be in shock at how easy the thing starts, and idles after a proper carb cleaning. I posted pics (and another compliment to you) in the "what'd you do to your ride today" cleaning the carbs last night. Haven't got them back in my bike yet, but assuming I remember where all the hoses go it should be pretty easy. Now that I know exactly how all it works, hopefully I can tune it up nicely and eliminate it from any further troubleshooting. One of the pilot screw o-rings had a small nick in it, but I put it back as-is rather than waiting on parts...it'll be easy enough to fix later if it causes problems.
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Jun 26, 2009 15:26
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I didn't want to post a thread about this, but I don't know where else to post about it and I'd like your honest opinions if worse should come to worse. I'm not looking for "HURR you paid too much" or whatever comments, just honest opinions on how best to handle this. I spotted a bike at my dealership, priced at $2500. I take a look. Ask what's wrong. "Head gasket leaks oil, we'll sell it to you for $1600 straight up." I ask, "How much to get this thing fixed up entirely so I can ride?" "$2900." I nod, express my interest, get papers for the financing ready to go in that price range. Then I shop around. For the year of the bike and the parts/labor I'm quoted $475-750 depending on where I call. So I decide to call the very same shop selling the bike, speak to a different sales / garage guy, give them the make/model of the bike and describe what's wrong and ask for an e-mail quote. This comes back at $800. So according to their own people I could buy the bike at $1600 and get it repaired at their own shop for $800 more, a total of $2400. Yes it's more than other places, but it is also $500 less than what their own sales person wants to soak me for for the bike and repair combined, so I head back on over, armed with the email their own shop people sent to me as a quote on the bike, talk to my sales guy, show him the email. This leads to a 6 person, 15 minute meeting in the office behind the sales/parts desk. He comes out, offers me $2600. I offer him $2425. At this point, and I'm not exaggerating, he literally rolls his eyes and shoves the paper work at me. I sign, noting exactly what needs to be repaired, and getting them to dictate that there is NOTHING else wrong with the bike after speaking with two other sales reps I ask when the bike will be ready after it's repairs are complete. I am told middle of this week. Well it's Friday of this week and I have a voicemail stating only "It's Red at so-and-so, give us a call." I'm about to get hosed up the rear end even further by these people and I can feel it. Tell me what I can do other than take out $100 a week ads in local newspapers about how they hosed me over and threaten legal action that will cost more than what they stand to make off this bike.
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Jun 27, 2009 02:48
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Maybe call them before you jump to conclusions? They could have the bike ready, they could not. They could try and soak you for more money, in which case you tell them to gently caress off. Have you paid yet/how did you pay?
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Jun 27, 2009 02:51
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Z3n posted:Maybe call them before you jump to conclusions? They could have the bike ready, they could not. They could try and soak you for more money, in which case you tell them to gently caress off. Have you paid yet/how did you pay? I paid $50 in cash to hold the bike as part of the downpayment and another $100 down at signing, but all the bank paperwork is signed and in place (edit: I should add, the paperwork included their invoice to repair the bike including parts and labor) and I don't want to be left holding my dick when they come back with "Oh yea we found out your *whatever* is hosed, it'll be another $600." DiscoKid fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 27, 2009 |
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Jun 27, 2009 02:57
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DiscoKid posted:I paid $50 in cash to hold the bike as part of the downpayment and another $100 down at signing, but all the bank paperwork is signed and in place (edit: I should add, the paperwork included their invoice to repair the bike including parts and labor) and I don't want to be left holding my dick when they come back with "Oh yea we found out your *whatever* is hosed, it'll be another $600." If you didn't sign off on additional work, they can't charge you for it, period. They promised delivery and that there was nothing else wrong with the bike. Call them, find out what they say, and if you don't really know what to say or want a second opinion, just tell them you'll call them back later.
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Jun 27, 2009 03:17
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Z3n posted:If you didn't sign off on additional work, they can't charge you for it, period. They promised delivery and that there was nothing else wrong with the bike. Call them, find out what they say, and if you don't really know what to say or want a second opinion, just tell them you'll call them back later. I didn't sign for anything other than what they quoted me for the bike and the repair. Thanks for the common sense heads-up. I appreciate it and I'll put it to good use if I have to.
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Jun 27, 2009 03:23
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DiscoKid posted:I didn't sign for anything other than what they quoted me for the bike and the repair. Thanks for the common sense heads-up. I appreciate it and I'll put it to good use if I have to. No problem. Don't mean to come off as a jerk about it or anything, you're just getting a little ahead of yourself. See what they say. At worst, you back out of the deal because they tack extra poo poo on and that's that. If you signed for a working bike for 2425, and they don't deliver you one, they have no way of doing anything but returning your deposit.
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Jun 27, 2009 03:33
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Keeping my options open, I'm gonna go look at a GS650L tomorrow, is there anything GS-specific I should know aside from the regular stuff to check? E: also holy cow RZ350 outta nowhere Phy fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jun 27, 2009 |
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Jun 27, 2009 04:24
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