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I've got a 95' Laguna Blue miata that has been having a small issue during acceleration. The car tends to buck when taking off. It's not that I'm not giving the car enough gas or that I'm releasing the clutch too quickly. It's more like there is play in a transmission mount or something that moves, then pops back, then moves, etc. I checked the motor mounts, and everything appears to be ok. As for the transmission, I don't notice the gear shifter moving when it happens. I haven't jacked the car up to take a look at the drive shaft yet so that may be it. Anyone else have something similar going on that could point me in the right direction?
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Jun 24, 2009 05:22
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| # ? May 14, 2024 06:36 |
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Hog Obituary posted:I have one that can be yours for $45+ship new/used, oem or aftermarket?
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Jun 24, 2009 16:23
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used OEM (as far as I can tell). The endcaps are still black and it wasn't leaking when I pulled it (I got a big aluminum one for my car). Mileage unknown. Email me at hogobituary at gmail if interested.
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Jun 24, 2009 18:24
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I appreciate the offer, but I think I'll go with a new all metal radiator.
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Jun 25, 2009 01:58
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I'm going to put in a new clutch soon, and could use some input. Theres the "OEM" Mazda Value edition; from the dealership it's about $110 locally. The dude at the dealership (Trussville Mazda) said the value editions dont hold up well for those who like to drive the card hard. I do like to drive mine hard and routinely do silly things. Then theres the OEM "OEM" clutch from Mazda, for the the whole kit its closer to $220. This is supposed to be more stout and able to take plenty of punishment from people like myself who like run it all the way out to red-line on a regular basis. Ive also seen an Exedy clutch kit online, part # KMZ03. Does anyone know if that part # is a match for either of the OEM clutches from Mazda? Ive got no plans to do a turbo or any power adders with this clutch. What do you think?
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Jun 25, 2009 09:38
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I'm interested in checking out an '09 mx5. I like everything I've heard about the car, and I really like the fact that I can get a power hard top and paddle shiters on one. Anybody have a similar setup, and if so what are your thoughts on the car? To anybody else with an opinion, how do these new mx5s stack up against their competition?
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Jun 25, 2009 09:48
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Don't get an automatic transmission, please.
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Jun 25, 2009 11:29
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So I have a lead on an NB top and frame for my '99, which has the typical-for-the-year horrific wear holes in the corners. It's apparently in perfect shape, and I can drive to pick it up. Thing is, the Miata isn't a pickup truck, so I don't know what I'm gonna do when I get there. I have a hard top, so my best idea was to remove the soft top, but leave it in closed position, put the hard top on, and when I get there, put the new soft top in the old one's place (just not bolted down until I get back). I've never done the top before. Is removal relatively easy? From what I can tell, installation involves making sure the rain rail's dead-on, but removal wouldn't have such a requirement. What's the general consensus on how long removal should take? (I can install at my leisure when I get home, I just don't want to inconvenience the guy selling the top or drive 2+ hours just to find I can't pick it up). I'm in MA, so travelling sans top is not an option. There have been three days in the last thirty that haven't been rain, and the next ten look to be more of the same (except today, which is a "break" in the rain, but not in the clouds).
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Jun 25, 2009 19:37
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Borrow a friend's minivan or truck.
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Jun 25, 2009 19:41
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Phone posted:Borrow a friend's minivan or truck. That bad, eh? It's an option (or at least, a large car might be), but if I can just do it myself, that'd be preferable.
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Jun 25, 2009 19:45
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The problem is to get the softtop out, you have to do quite a bit of work. You might be able to just let it loosely sit on the parcel shelf, but I'm not sure how much luck you'd have with that.
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Jun 25, 2009 19:50
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Phone posted:The problem is to get the softtop out, you have to do quite a bit of work. You might be able to just let it loosely sit on the parcel shelf, but I'm not sure how much luck you'd have with that. Blech. Well, onto plan B: mooch off friends.
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Jun 25, 2009 20:17
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This is how you remove it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLkMVAE3ZaA&feature=PlayList&p=1F7D4222F3822DE2&index=1
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Jun 25, 2009 20:19
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Phone posted:This is how you remove it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLkMVAE3ZaA&feature=PlayList&p=1F7D4222F3822DE2&index=1 Funny thing is, I watched that episode within the last two months or so. For some reason, all I recall is when they removed the window, cut the rust from the pillar, welded in the patch, filled it, and painted. It all looked so easy, but I know it totally wasn't. Oh, and I remember the silly chrome poo poo they threw in. Got a sale, so whatever. Thanks for the link. I'll check it over when I get home.
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Jun 25, 2009 20:43
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Couldn't find a friend with a large car to go that far of a trip. Top removal report: An hour and a half, give or take. Only unexpected part was the additional zip ties used for the defroster cable; these showed up as I lifted the top/frame out of the car. Luckily, my girlfriend was coming down to help (just as I was finishing...hm), and she snipped the ties with scissors. Out of 10 difficulty... Maybe a 2. It's just time consuming, but otherwise it's all pop rivets and "Can I just tear this upwards? Oh, I can." Under the top is FILTHY. I'm gonna pick the new top up tomorrow, bolt it down just so it's not jostling, and when it's sunny again, clean the entire back before I think about sticking it in. I can see the rain rail being a bit of a PITA to get back in; any tips? Also, aside from checking wear points and the new rain rail, anything I should be aware of looking at the new top/frame tomorrow?
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Jun 27, 2009 17:21
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Well, my 6 month old Robbins cloth top was slashed open last night, even though there was nothing in the car to steal. Any suggestions for replacements? I really wasnt happy with the cloth as it required a lot more cleaning than I expected. Are the vinyl tops easier to maintain?
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Jun 27, 2009 21:06
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Schwack posted:Well, my 6 month old Robbins cloth top was slashed open last night, even though there was nothing in the car to steal. Any suggestions for replacements? I really wasnt happy with the cloth as it required a lot more cleaning than I expected. Are the vinyl tops easier to maintain? I've got an OEM vinyl top and I'd go with a yes on the ease of maintenance. Rinse it off and put some Meguier's #40 (or whatever vinyl/plastic protectant you like) on every so often and it looks pretty much new, even after ten years.
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Jun 27, 2009 21:20
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VPILF posted:I've got an OEM vinyl top and I'd go with a yes on the ease of maintenance. Rinse it off and put some Meguier's #40 (or whatever vinyl/plastic protectant you like) on every so often and it looks pretty much new, even after ten years. Tan tops can get get grimy looking before too long. The only thing I've found that has any effect on the grime is Simple Green, scrubbed in with a stiff nylon brush. You can get it spotless with this. Also, yes the OEM vinyl top is an excellent piece of kit. If you're buying one, though, watch out for cracking along the top edge seams.
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Jun 28, 2009 15:18
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FunkyJunk posted:Tan tops can get get grimy looking before too long. The only thing I've found that has any effect on the grime is Simple Green, scrubbed in with a stiff nylon brush. You can get it spotless with this. That's a good point, I can only speak about black (well, really dark blue) tops.
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Jun 28, 2009 19:34
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Schwack posted:Well, my 6 month old Robbins cloth top was slashed open last night, even though there was nothing in the car to steal. Was your car locked?
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Jun 29, 2009 15:50
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If you need new headrest speakers, I recommend Blaupunkt PCx352s. Cheap and do the job.
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Jul 1, 2009 07:58
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Schwack posted:Well, my 6 month old Robbins cloth top was slashed open last night, even though there was nothing in the car to steal. Any suggestions for replacements? I really wasnt happy with the cloth as it required a lot more cleaning than I expected. Are the vinyl tops easier to maintain? My Vinyl top is horrible to maintain... but im the dumbass that wanted a white top. I think it looks good (mariner blue '90) but it's soooo hard to keep clean. If I had it to do over I'd probably go tan cloth with a glass window. Ins covering the new top & install? 
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Jul 1, 2009 08:25
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puttz posted:My Vinyl top is horrible to maintain... but im the dumbass that wanted a white top. I think it looks good (mariner blue '90) but it's soooo hard to keep clean. They are, but right now I have the tan cloth top and its a complete hassle to keep clean. It tends to get black marks all over from where the frame presses on it a bit so I was hoping a vinyl top would be a bit easier to clean.
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Jul 1, 2009 22:15
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It's time to put new rear pads and rotors on my 94. I have the service manual, and brakes just aren't that hard, so I'm doing it myself. What's the cheapest place to buy these parts?
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Jul 1, 2009 23:50
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Are you going for cheap performance or just cheap? Try Mazdaspeed for performance, Autozone for cheap.
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Jul 2, 2009 01:06
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You can also try Rosenthal Mazda if you're looking for OEM: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php
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Jul 2, 2009 04:30
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mobn posted:It's time to put new rear pads and rotors on my 94. I have the service manual, and brakes just aren't that hard, so I'm doing it myself. What's the cheapest place to buy these parts? I went to NAPA for the rotors and got some Hawk HPS(?) pads from Goodwin Racing. All in all, cost was about 150 bucks (for all 4) including brake fluid. Unfortunately, it took me for loving ever to get the rotors off the hubs because they were rusted on.
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Jul 2, 2009 05:34
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Protip for the rotors rusted to hub: There's a threaded screw hole on the rotor. Find the appropriate bolt, insert, torque down, and they'll pop right off.
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Jul 2, 2009 06:08
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iscariot posted:Protip for the rotors rusted to hub: There's a threaded screw hole on the rotor. Find the appropriate bolt, insert, torque down, and they'll pop right off. A lot of cars do this. My old Sentra had the same feature, which I learned of after bashing both front rotors off with a rubber mallet. My wrists rang for weeks.
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Jul 2, 2009 15:07
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Shlomo Palestein posted:A lot of cars do this. My old Sentra had the same feature, which I learned of after bashing both front rotors off with a rubber mallet. My wrists rang for weeks. If you get the cheapest Autozone specials, they often lack these holes. Of course, I see no reason that you couldn't just drill and tap them yourself since rotors are just cast iron. Just make sure that the holes exist in new rotors or you will hate yourself next time you have to take them off.
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Jul 2, 2009 18:04
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Phone posted:Are you going for cheap performance or just cheap? Yeah, it's not getting tracked or anything (too poor right now). Also, it looks like I just need the pads, so what's the cheapest pad that won't eat my rotor alive?
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Jul 2, 2009 19:15
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Assless chaps :giggity:
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Jul 2, 2009 20:26
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What the hell is going on with the front of your hardtop? How does no rear window affect aero?
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Jul 2, 2009 20:29
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Ziploc posted:What the hell is going on with the front of your hardtop? Duct tape. That's an 11 pound carbon shell hardtop, and the mountings I did weren't quite enough to keep it fully in place. Had to do a few more when I got home from that event. No rear window helps aero, since you don't get the flow curling. The air from the side windows goes out the back, cleans up the airflow, reduces drag, and makes the wing more effective.
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Jul 2, 2009 20:43
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My braking woes continue. 1991 NA, stock. I replaced the rear caliper and a few weeks later a repeating "clunking" noise started appearing in (what I think) sounds like the front drivers side. It only appears when I am braking slightly harder than lightly, essentially parking lot speed. It goes away when pressed harder. It appears to get worse while turning, but it can be hard to duplicate. Its almost like a CV, but in the front. I pulled the wheel off and everything seems okay from a visual standpoint. I checked miata net and "noises faq" suggested it was the brake splash shield, which seemed fine, or the sway bar had come loose. I am not sure how to test the sway bar, other than yanking on it, and it seemed okay too. What else should I check?
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Jul 2, 2009 21:29
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Tai-Pan posted:I checked miata net and "noises faq" suggested it was the brake splash shield, which seemed fine, or the sway bar had come loose. I am not sure how to test the sway bar, other than yanking on it, and it seemed okay too. The 'proper' way to check the swaybar is to put the front end of the car on jackstands, then put your jack under the wheel on one side and raise it, and watch if the other side goes up with it or if it stays down. Do this on both sides.
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Jul 3, 2009 00:11
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Tai-Pan posted:What else should I check? Inspect your brake slider pins?
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Jul 3, 2009 01:01
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Gumball Dad posted:I'm interested in checking out an '09 mx5. I like everything I've heard about the car, and I really like the fact that I can get a power hard top and paddle shiters on one. Anybody have a similar setup, and if so what are your thoughts on the car? To anybody else with an opinion, how do these new mx5s stack up against their competition? This is my setup. I have a copper red mica '09 PRHT GT AT. I get some poo poo for the automatic, but honestly I could care less. It's my dream car, and my only car - I drive this every day, everywhere, not just for pleasure. There isn't a single thing I'd change about it, and no car I'd rather have under the $50k range. The automatic is nice when you're severely multitasking, and is adaptive and smart - when you start driving aggressively it'll automatically start revving higher - like "sport" mode in other cars. It's also nice that the paddle shifters still function while in automatic. I have it in the "manumatic" mode 98 percent of the time, though, and paddles are fun and the cpu only interferes when it has to. There are two pairs of paddles, one on each side of the wheel so you can shift with either hand - a down shift button on top for the thumb, and an upshift paddle on bottom for the fingers. The hard top is awesome - 77 pounds, goes down in 12 seconds, no trunk space - and and awesome cabin with the top up. Very high-quality - interestingly, it's actually made in Germany, then sent to Japan to be assembled with the rest of the car. To lock and unlock there's only one latch to pull. The trim and finish of the car is amazing. 5k miles on it so far, and not a single problem. If you have any questions or want to know anything specific, PM me. As for competitors, I hope you don't mean the Skye and the Solstice... DrSilverworm fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Jul 3, 2009 |
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Jul 3, 2009 07:56
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Ziploc posted:Inspect your brake slider pins? What am I looking for? I jiggled them and did not notice anything and I pulled out the pads not long ago and nothing seem out of whack. fatman1683 posted:The 'proper' way to check the swaybar is to put the front end of the car on jackstands, then put your jack under the wheel on one side and raise it, and watch if the other side goes up with it or if it stays down. Do this on both sides. I will give this a shot. Anything else I should check when its on stands?
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Jul 3, 2009 09:15
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| # ? May 14, 2024 06:36 |
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Tai-Pan posted:What am I looking for? I jiggled them and did not notice anything and I pulled out the pads not long ago and nothing seem out of whack. Crack the sliders loose and check to make sure they're well greased. It was one of the first things I did with mine. There was almost no grease showing at all. I still need to check the rears, but the TOB may be more pressing...I still need to check it out more and see if AI agrees with the symptoms I'm seeing pointing toward the TOB.
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Jul 3, 2009 15:43
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