|
Do some stators come with a layer of coating around the wires, or does the one I just opened up have some serious issues going on? I've never done this before, but I don't know if it's supposed to look like it does or if there was too much oil in there and some weird reaction happened.. all the ones I see online have the shiny copper wires exposed. Who loves charging problems?
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 03:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 16:14 |
|
|
Colawa posted:Do some stators come with a layer of coating around the wires, or does the one I just opened up have some serious issues going on? I've never done this before, but I don't know if it's supposed to look like it does or if there was too much oil in there and some weird reaction happened.. all the ones I see online have the shiny copper wires exposed. Mine has isolated wires, if you image google "suzuki stator" you'll see some examples. Colawa posted:Who loves charging problems?  
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 12:41
|
|
|
Colawa posted:Do some stators come with a layer of coating around the wires, or does the one I just opened up have some serious issues going on? I've never done this before, but I don't know if it's supposed to look like it does or if there was too much oil in there and some weird reaction happened.. all the ones I see online have the shiny copper wires exposed. the wires are usually coated in a clear lacquer. On a new stator, they'd look like bare shiny copper, but one that's been swimming in oil for a while, the lacquer browns up over time. also, as a completely unsubstantiated rule of thumb, while the stator can be the cause of your charging problems, chances are it isn't. There isn't a whole lot that can go wrong with them. Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jun 28, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 17:39
|
|
|
Been told by a couple other riders that I got blue smoking coming out of the exhaust when I'm heavy on the throttle. How bad is it to drive the bike around like this for the summer before I rebuild it this winter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 19:24
|
|
|
CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Been told by a couple other riders that I got blue smoking coming out of the exhaust when I'm heavy on the throttle. How bad is it to drive the bike around like this for the summer before I rebuild it this winter. Might be valve stem seals or mildly worn rings. If it had a cat or o2 sensor you might be concerned about those items, but as long as oil is kept toppped off as it slowly burns away, it will go forever.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 20:00
|
|
|
Alright then maybe some of you guys will have an idea. My battery reads 12.2v with the engine off, and 11.8v with the engine idling, and the also at 5000 rpm. Where should I be looking for a problem? I charged my battery on 2 amps 2 weeks ago, and it starts fine still, but the voltages are off and I just know if I go riding it's gonna die on me sooner or later.. last time that happened I was on the freeway coming home and I had to keep the rpms above 2000 or it would die, this was especially not fun once I hit the city (and the stoplights) and I'd rather not have it happen again. e: I just noticed a small area of exposed copper wire in my stator, but it doesn't look to have any charring or melting marks around it, could it have come that way? A short there would cause these problems (as I've learned from the ridiculous amount of reading about Honda charging problems) but I don't see any other indications of a short, no black marking or anything.. Could this be my problem? Colawa fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jun 28, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 21:16
|
|
|
Colawa posted:Alright then maybe some of you guys will have an idea. Sounds like your battery isnt getting an ounce of charge while the bike is running, and from the standing voltage I would say it is close to being completely dead again. Until you get the charging stuff sorted out I would probably be sticking your bike on a trickle charge so this doesnt kill your battery as well 
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 21:29
|
|
|
Colawa posted:Alright then maybe some of you guys will have an idea. Your battery is not getting charged and the bike is running off the battery. If it was a car, it would be your alternator, but since bikes typically break up the stator and regulator, you'll have to test each to be 100% sure. They aren't terribly expensive, might be worth just replacing both regardless.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2009 23:58
|
|
|
Colawa posted:Alright then maybe some of you guys will have an idea. How old is the bike? If it's 1975 or thereabouts, check the rectifier as well. Honda didn't put large enough rectifiers in their bikes when the 'headlights on' laws were passed in the U.S., so the battery won't charge while riding unless you really give it some juice. If it turns out to be the rectifier, check out Oregon Motorcycle Parts for a great quality modern replacement.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 00:41
|
|
|
It's not that old, at 1999, I'm thinking I'll replace the stator first and see if that fixes it, and if not I'll replace the RR
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 00:52
|
|
|
Colawa posted:Do some stators come with a layer of coating around the wires, or does the one I just opened up have some serious issues going on? I've never done this before, but I don't know if it's supposed to look like it does or if there was too much oil in there and some weird reaction happened.. all the ones I see online have the shiny copper wires exposed. Colawa posted:It's not that old, at 1999, I'm thinking I'll replace the stator first and see if that fixes it, and if not I'll replace the RR Just "guessing" is stupid. A burnt r/r can burn stators! Do the tests.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 04:34
|
|
|
Colawa posted:Who loves charging problems? My charging problem is the worst because I know the rectifier is bad at this point and I could ride the bike but I'm too scared of a wiring harness meltdown if the rectifier decides to really go nuclear. I'm also scared of cooking my stator.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 17:03
|
|
|
8ender posted:My charging problem is the worst because I know the rectifier is bad at this point and I could ride the bike but I'm too scared of a wiring harness meltdown if the rectifier decides to really go nuclear. I'm also scared of cooking my stator. Unplug the stator. cover each wire individually in electrical tape. Then ride without worry.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 17:09
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Unplug the stator. cover each wire individually in electrical tape. Then ride without worry. I thought about doing that but how long does an old bike like mine last without any charging at all? The rectifier is toast but it was still eeking out a little juice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 17:17
|
|
|
Hey folks! First time getting aquainted with the Goon Biker Gang. I'm just getting started in riding and I'd love your advice. I just bought my first bike. $500, completely working though it needs a carb clean, 1982 Suzuku GS550L. Very fancy! I have one problem with the bike though, it's a little tall for me (I'm only 5'6"). So my question is, how important is it that you can get both feet on the ground when stopped? I can barely scrape both toes when going straight, and it's not uncomfortable to stop on one foot, but it does seem rather unnatural. I have a few options to lower the bike, apparently some different shocks will bring me down another 2 inches, and the seat is really thick, I can flat foot over the bike no problem when the seat is removed. So I think my friend who does apphoulstery could make me a thinner seat. Should I bother trying to do this or just deal with stopping on my left foot? The woman I bought the bike from was no taller than me and she said for the past 20 years she was on this bike, she alway stopped on one foot. Suggestions from the gurus?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 20:18
|
|
|
dejanigma posted:Hey folks! First time getting aquainted with the Goon Biker Gang. I'm just getting started in riding and I'd love your advice. Just get used to stopping on one foot. Unless you plan on riding this bike forever, you'll eventually buy something else and what you want and love may have a taller seat height. If you adjust to it now, you'll open up a lot more potential bikes in the future.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 20:20
|
|
|
So, i've got all the stuff needed to seal my gas tank(I went with the kit from KBS coatings). Has anyone ever used this when it's hot? We have a nice little heat wave going on in the San Joaquin valley, it's 101 right now(And it was 107 yesterday, that was fun) but the instructions for the items say the ideal temp are between 55 and 82 degrees. It looks like it won't start cooling down for another week, and then it'll still be in the 90's. Would the process still work in this heat? Or should I set up some lights and try doing it at night?
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 20:59
|
|
|
dejanigma posted:Hey folks! First time getting aquainted with the Goon Biker Gang. I'm just getting started in riding and I'd love your advice. I had no idea those were so popular, I just picked up my 82 GS550L for $400 "not running" (5 hours of work and we're fine) about a week ago! I'm 6'1" and consider it a pretty small bike  I can literally sit on the passenger seat and reach all the control with ease...Not that I have any experience, but I would recommend riding it as is, or possibly just trim a BIT of the seat... not so much that you can flat foot, but just enough to make you more confident on it. There's no reason you shouldn't enjoy the bike, but at the same time I wouldn't go so far as that you'd rely on something you wouldn't have when it comes to future bikes...
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 23:16
|
|
|
Being short sucks! Thanks for the advice, I haven't heard a dissenting opinion yet here or outside the forum. I'm puttin my money into pads and gloves and such first.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 23:30
|
|
|
Did you try sitting on it with normal shoes? Get some decent riding boots. Your feet will be safer and your reach will be longer.
|
|
#
?
Jun 29, 2009 23:47
|
|
|
What windshield is this? http://classifieds.castanet.net/showproduct.php/product/445699/cat/152 (Linked because waffleimages is down) It looks modern and very good, and really fits the old style bikes. Just what I was looking for. Any idea?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 04:44
|
|
|
MrZig posted:What windshield is this? I'd like to know as well. Thats a good looking windshield. I've been looking at these sort of "flyscreens" lately and I'd really like to get one. http://www.dartflyscreens.com/
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 04:52
|
|
|
dejanigma posted:I just bought my first bike. $500, completely working though it needs a carb clean, 1982 Suzuku GS550L. Very fancy! I have one problem with the bike though, it's a little tall for me (I'm only 5'6"). So my question is, how important is it that you can get both feet on the ground when stopped? As for advice? make sure it's got good/new tires on it. Spend a lot of time in parking lots playing with the clutch, messing around with doing turns, practice emergency stops. And wear good gear. Since it's an 82, are you sure it's not a GS550T? ;-) Take off the seat, How many bolts hold the tank on? As for their popularity, their distressing ability to survive, means they keep resurfacing year after year.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 07:22
|
|
|
Also, make sure you're actually sliding off the seat slightly when stopped. It'll give you a little more reach that can make you a whole lot more comfortable. *Edit* what are the options for dealing with a flat tyre? As I mentioned in another thread, I did over 1000km this weekend, and then 3 miles from home got a flat in the rear. Didn't realise it was actually flat, I thought it was just low of air and thus I limped home. I'm meant to be off to Cornwall on friday, so I'd really like a solution that won't involve buying a new tyre, purely from the money and time point of view. Orange Someone fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jul 1, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 22:38
|
|
|
Somehow I have no loving idea how my kickstand got bent to all living gently caress. I don't know how I didn't notice this when I got on the bike the day it happened but it's pissing me off having to use my centerstand everyday. If I blowtorch it back into place will it be ok? Or should I order a new one? I don't want the tensile strength to be all hosed up from blow torching it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 14:20
|
|
|
What do I lube cables with? I mean the actual lube, I have the little gizmo that clamps on the end. I've done it once but it was over at someone else's place.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 15:32
|
|
|
I have a spray bottle that says "Cable Lube" on it that I bought at the dealer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 17:23
|
|
|
Anyone familiar with this magic combination gauge? http://www.webbikeworld.com/r4/motorcycle-volt-meter/ Got one in the mail, but the instructions looks like a copy of a copy, most important words look like this:  There's a red, black and orange wire. Anyone know where they go? I assume red and black are for pos/neg terminals, maybe the orange is for sensing key on or rider's anal temperature or something. edit: found it on thegsresources! Black=Ground, Red=Constant 12V and Orange=Switched 12V Ola fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jul 2, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 02:05
|
|
|
Hi guys, I recently purchased a $300 1974 Honda CB200T as a project for the summer, and so far I've decided that getting it started should be concern number one, appropriately. The goal right now is to get spark from the plugs as an initial first step, as all the wiring has been disconnected. I've reconnected most of the harness, and am presently getting 12V into the ignition coil. When we connect a plug to it (and ground it against the motor) there is no visible spark. After doing some reading it seems we need some sort of switch to collapse and open to create the spark (turns out to be the contact breaker). Now the issue I'm having is how is the contact breaker initiated to get it to collapse/open? As well, I'd be fine not having the electric start working if we could get the kick start to work, but I have no clue about the theory of what we'd have to have connected for that to work as the internet has not been forth coming. Voltage still needs to be going to the plugs, but what supplies it when using a kick start?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 07:58
|
|
|
Well you should ground the plug against the engine while it's connected to the plug wire and have a friend kick the bike over and see if there's spark. hold it with a rag or something so you don't get shocked if it doesn't ground completely
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 08:02
|
|
|
Corrupt Cypher posted:Now the issue I'm having is how is the contact breaker initiated to get it to collapse/open? What do you mean by this? Like, where does it go? Or which wires hook to the points?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 08:19
|
|
|
aventari posted:Well you should ground the plug against the engine while it's connected to the plug wire and have a friend kick the bike over and see if there's spark. Haven't actually tried that combination yet, silly me. I'll have my friend whose working on the bike with me give that a shot, thanks. bobula posted:What do you mean by this? Like, where does it go? Or which wires hook to the points? What I'm wondering is what action is causing the switch to flip. Would it be the selenoid moving into position (triggered by the start button)? If so should we just be physically twisting it to induce spark? Right now the contact breaker is wired through the condenser as shown in the wiring diagram, so I think we got that right. Thanks a lot for the quick replies though guys, this forum is a lot of the reason I thought I might be able to tackle a project like this for the first time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 08:34
|
|
|
You seem to not have any understanding of how ignitoin systems work. ;-) Maybe it's quick primer time. What you have is battery powered, breaker type ignition. THe 12v to the coil generates a large magnetic field in the coil. The power to the coil also goes through the points. (which should be behind one of the cam covers...) When the camshaft gets to the point where the ignition event should happen, there's a lever (really, another cam..) that opens the points. When the electricity is removed from the points, the magnetic field in the coil collapses, and that induces current in spark plug lead. ;-) Coils for this sort of ignitions IIRC are in the 3-4ohm range. You won't get spark, unless something moves the points. Which is what I think your stumbling block is. You won't have spark unless the motor is turning over. You also won't have spark unless the points open and close. After 1979 or so, the points were replaced with solid state switches. And instead of a cam controlling the timing, they use hall effect sensors to determine crank/cam position. Coils for these ignitions are in the 2-3ohm range. They actually use the same amount of electrical power as the points ignitions, but due to the voltage drop across the power transistors they need to go to a lower ohm rating to ensure the same current. Even later, the started using something called CDI. CDI coils are in the .9ohm range. And instead of depending on the magnetic field collapsing, they generate spark while the magnetic field is forming. CDI bikes do not normally power their coils, and only put power to them when they want a spark. This system was first introduced on dirtbikes. It's more expensive to build, but more compact, and has more accurate spark timing. Sometime in the mid-late 2000's street bikes started using CDI.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 08:59
|
|
|
Thanks a ton, now that I think about it logically that makes a gently caress ton of sense. I just never thought it'd be something as simple as being directly mechanically tied to the movement of the engine. Of course, if you relate that to getting spark in the right intervals it makes perfect sense, and now I understand why my "starter motor" is just an electric motor that turns the engine over. I was thinking about this in a purely electrical sense assuming there'd be some sort of alternating switch unrelated to the mechanics of the bike.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 09:27
|
|
|
2008 KTM 690 SMC with 635 miles never down flawless for $6k flat. Should I do it? I think so, help me make a bad decision.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 01:10
|
|
|
TheFonz posted:2008 KTM 690 SMC with 635 miles never down flawless for $6k flat. Should I do it? Hell yeah, I would.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 01:17
|
|
|
TheFonz posted:2008 KTM 690 SMC with 635 miles never down flawless for $6k flat. Should I do it? good lord, fire if you're interested
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 04:35
|
|
|
About to buy a used bike, but its not close to me (70 miles) and i'm a new rider. Do you guys know an appropriate amount to pay the seller for riding it to my place after I purchase it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 15:10
|
|
|
I need help getting a stuck valve cover off. My bike is an 87' Gpz305, and this thing is stuck on tight. I've tried smacking with a rubber mallet, prying, everything and it just wont budge. If it helps, over top the dead cylinder there is a crack in the case, and the rocker arms are loose. The rockers are simply not touching the camshaft and I can move them up untill they are touching the top of the cover.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 18:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 16:14 |
|
|
Logue posted:About to buy a used bike, but its not close to me (70 miles) and i'm a new rider. Do you guys know an appropriate amount to pay the seller for riding it to my place after I purchase it? I've seen people charge $1 a mile, but I'd offer him $50 and call it a day. Or find a friend who can ride and buy him beer (preferably after he gets the bike to your place).
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 18:19
|
|