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Nyyen posted:
Truthfully, you've pretty much narrowed it down. The fluctuating idle is due to an intake leak. The die when you open the throttle is a dirty carb, or a missing airbox. The first thing I'd tell you, is to return the carb to exact stock settings. Use some new jets. That's a very, very neat bike by the way.
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Jul 7, 2009 02:15
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Nerobro posted:Truthfully, you've pretty much narrowed it down. The fluctuating idle is due to an intake leak. The die when you open the throttle is a dirty carb, or a missing airbox. The bike only has a air filter that attaches strait to the carbs intake. Would putting the filter back on help keep things running properly? We had it off so we could dump gas strait in. How do we fix an intake leak if it isn't related to the air intake. quote:The first thing I'd tell you, is to return the carb to exact stock settings. Use some new jets. Unfortunately, we don't know how to take it back to stock. This is something someone made in their garage 40 some years ago. We blew out all the jets and did the whole carb with cleaner so we doubt it's dirt. No corrosion and seals are all in working order it seems. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow to double check though. By the way, the petcock was a rusty mess and could still have some feed issues. I will take some pictures when we break it down again tomorrow. Sorry if I'm being dense but this is the first bike I've ever worked on. Nyyen fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jul 7, 2009 |
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Jul 7, 2009 03:28
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MrZig posted:Here's a random question. Why is it that every single 80's bike in 'OK' condition has missing side covers? Where do they go?! I have a pair off a 78 Honda Hawk 400, I won't need them, so if someone is looking they're available for the cost of postage. Likely doesn't help you much, but seems a good break to offer them to the gooniverse.
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Jul 7, 2009 04:13
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Nyyen posted:*I'm way over my head* Yes, running without the filter will cause the carb to be wildly lean. There are gaskets that go between the intake and the cylinder head. Those should be in good shape. double stack them if you're worried about bad mating surfaces. The back of the carb has an o-ring on it. That should be fresh and pliable.
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Jul 7, 2009 04:53
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Nyyen posted:Sorry if I'm being dense but this is the first bike I've ever worked on. Don't feel bad you're not the only one around here in that boat :P
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Jul 7, 2009 13:12
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I get a hard on every time I see a bobber and I managed to stumble across https://www.bluecollarbobbers.com . Looking through some of the kits that they want to sell I found this: A little 250 rebel bobber. If they do start selling kits I will purchase a used or new rebel and convert it as my first bike. If anyone owns a rebel, can you get to 70 mph comfortably? After I take the MSF and do some parking lot runs I plan on taking a 250 to school and work. I'd like to know if they can handle that speed. Video!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-cTuJ3ZaOU&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluecollarbobbers.com%2F&feature=player_embedded VV That's ok as well. I've got several routes that I can use that doesn't involve the highway, it'll just take around 2 hours to get to class. Not a bad thing in my mind though. fromoutofnowhere fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Jul 7, 2009 |
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Jul 7, 2009 15:45
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fromoutofnowhere posted:can you get to 70 mph comfortably? not "comfortably"
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Jul 7, 2009 16:03
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fromoutofnowhere posted:A little 250 rebel bobber. That looks really nice.
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Jul 7, 2009 16:07
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fromoutofnowhere posted:bobbers From the website: "We currently have kits for the Honda Shadow 600, Honda Rebel 250, Yamaha Vstar 600, and the Kawasaki Vulcan 800." Any of those bikes would be alright for a beginner, the Rebel obviously being the cheapest. The Shadow and the Vstar should be able to do 70 mph without too much hassle and the Vulcan will do it with ease.
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Jul 7, 2009 17:32
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From years of experience as my first bike a Rebel 250 will do 70 in the tailwind of a big rig at highway speed, other than that invest in a harpoon. Also depending on your height it isn't a great fit, I'm 6'1" and looked like a gorilla on a tricycle. Go for the others, small enough to learn on, big enough not to outgrow too quickly.
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Jul 7, 2009 23:07
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orange lime posted:I ride slow, I want a little bike.
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Jul 8, 2009 00:21
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CADPAT posted:Right now I hit about a max of 270kms including reserve. I'd like to push that up to 350 at least. There are guys out there making auxiliary tanks for late model cruisers (and maybe other styles). I don't know of anyone doing the Shadow but considering it's popularity I'd be surprised if no one was making them. You may have to snoop around Shadow specific forums to find them though. This guy does mostly Suzukis but you could email and ask if he knows anyone doing Hondas.
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Jul 8, 2009 07:58
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Well, poo poo. This explains my recent spike in oil consumption. There's four things that poke into the gearbox here. The clutch arm, drive shaft, selector shaft and gear position switch. I think the selector shaft is the culprit, but it's hard to see from the comic amount of oily poo poo around. I've cleaned it up a bit and will reinspect in a short while but I need to get this fixed before I do 5000+ miles around Europe in two weeks time. Is this a big job? Do I have to split the case?  I'm currently running synthetic and I understand there's some gasket sealant additives in mineral oil. Should I swap and see what happens?edit: I hope it's the gear position switch, where the cable is coming from. That would be a pretty simple fix. Ola fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Jul 8, 2009 |
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Jul 8, 2009 12:15
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Ola posted:Well, poo poo. Hey look at the bright side, self oiling chain.
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Jul 8, 2009 13:33
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8ender posted:Hey look at the bright side, self oiling chain. I did think about that, but unfortunately the leak is too low. I could have competed with Scottoiler and sold bad selector shaft seals as the Olaoiler. Speaking of fortune...  I'm suddenly down to three cylinders. That's rainwater not evaporating from the cold #1 pipe. It's not completely cold so there's probably something happening inside there, but it would get some heat from the engine just by sitting there of course. I've had increasing vibes and less power for a few days now, I really noticed it when I tried tuning the pilot screws for best idle. #1 could go all the way in or out, no change in idle. Theories: The coil is good as #4 is ok, but there could still a poor spark. Fiddled with the lead at speed, no change. A more likely culprit is fuel starvation, perhaps #1 carb isn't getting fuel. Gonna try draining #1 and #4 bowls and compare amounts. Air / throttle valve / CV piston should be good as I actually rode with the carbtune instrument on the bike the other day, looking for a suspected air leak:  Was fun, every bike should have 4 vacuum gauges in their instrument cluster. In summary; Dear Lady Fortune - I realize it is part of your mission to give me challenges like this right before I a long trip. I guess I can only thank you for giving me a full 12 days to diagnose, order parts and repair.
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Jul 8, 2009 13:43
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Ola posted:Gonna try draining #1 and #4 bowls and compare amounts. Try the tube trick. You take out your bowl drain plug and attach a length of tube to the hole and then hold it beside the carb and turn the petcock to prime. That will show you how much gas is being allowed into the float bowl.
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Jul 8, 2009 13:47
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Ola posted:I'm suddenly down to three cylinders. That's rainwater not evaporating from the cold #1 pipe. It's not completely cold so there's probably something happening inside there, but it would get some heat from the engine just by sitting there of course. What's the spark plug look like? Perhaps you just have a fouled plug? Plus you're right on the money on the heat of the pipe. If it's warm enough to touch it isn't firing. It's just grabbing heat from the engine.
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Jul 8, 2009 18:21
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Crayvex posted:What's the spark plug look like? Perhaps you just have a fouled plug? Plus you're right on the money on the heat of the pipe. If it's warm enough to touch it isn't firing. It's just grabbing heat from the engine. Plug looked a beautiful tan. I'm currently searching the poo poo out of thegsresources.com and I think this might be a coil/ignition issue. No chance to check it out until after work tomorrow. First thing to try is swapping 1-4 plug leads and see if the cold pipe moves...
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Jul 8, 2009 18:31
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check that the HT lead hasn't corroded where it goes into the spark plug boot. if it has just cut it back an inch and screw the boot back on and see if that helps. I had a very similar problem on my old Suzuki Bandit. if it was a coil problem you'd have lost cylinders 1 and 4
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Jul 8, 2009 19:26
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Nyyen posted:I've run into a problem while trying to get a little 90cc running properly. Sounds like an air leak around the petcock. Edit: Oh hey look at that, another page! frozenphil fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Jul 8, 2009 |
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Jul 8, 2009 21:28
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What is the name of the power connectors found on this set inflation set. I have seen it used on a ton of things, but never been able to actually search for it to buy male or female sides of it.
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Jul 9, 2009 03:18
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SAE connectors (about 2/3rds of the way down the page) There's no such thing as male or female, an SAE connector is hermaphroditic.
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Jul 9, 2009 04:29
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Awesome thanks! I should have said power/device side... more so to line up the colors.
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Jul 9, 2009 05:00
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Kind of a slighty off topic question but doesn't anyone know a good place to buy exceptionally large patches for use on a leather jacket? I want the biggest patch of my own design that can possible fit on the back of my jacket.
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Jul 9, 2009 06:17
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Just ask the next 1%er you see.
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Jul 9, 2009 16:41
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Jack the Smack posted:Kind of a slighty off topic question but doesn't anyone know a good place to buy exceptionally large patches for use on a leather jacket? I want the biggest patch of my own design that can possible fit on the back of my jacket. For a one off check with local embroiderers, patches usually have minimums in the thousands although there are a few patch makers who will do hundreds but they are the same price as doing thousands somewhere else. http://www.cruzlabel.com/ http://generallabel.com/index.html http://www.patchesrus.com/ http://www.stadriemblems.com/ http://www.ad-a-patch.com/index.htm http://www.luckylabel.com/default.asp Lucky Label is the only one of the above I've used. They are good, fast and cheap but their minimum was 1200.
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Jul 9, 2009 18:01
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Got my poo poo narrowed down. Crosspost from gsresources: (coil firing on one lead but not the other?) I'm pretty stumped here, although the evidence points in one direction. Bike is a 1986 GSX750ES It started with an occasional stutter turning into a dead cylinder. #1 pipe was cold, #4 was fine. Compression is great across the board, voltage to primaries is good also. This is what I've done so far:
The good coil measures 24K Ohm between the plug caps, the bad coil measures 37K. The two different leads on the bad coil have identical resistance at about 4.5K Ohms. When testing the spark with an additional plug, it sparks but less than #4. Tried the original #1 plug, it too sparks but less than #4. So everything points to the terminal being bad. I tried cleaning it, hard to see it inside there, but it looked fine, no change after cleaning. The accepted knowledge is that the coil should either fire on both or none, not just one. But this is clearly the case, unless there is something I'm missing. If I can fix this without replacing it, I'M ALL EARS! But by the looks of it, I'll give the junkyard a call tomorrow and see if they have one or two good ones at a reasonable price. Can't afford Dynas right now, can't afford the waiting either as I leave for the Alps in 11 days... Any test or replacement check appreciated! Bonus info: The GSX750ES runs pretty good on three pots! Maybe a tad vibe-y. So this is what a Triumph triple feels like.
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Jul 9, 2009 21:13
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Realistically, you don't have a bad coil. Sadly, because the plug leads are part of the coil, you're best off just replacing the whole coil. Or else you can try crimping on a new lead from as close to the coil as you can cut the HT lead.
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Jul 9, 2009 21:29
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Nerobro posted:Realistically, you don't have a bad coil. Sadly, because the plug leads are part of the coil, you're best off just replacing the whole coil. The plug leads are removable. There's a bracket with claws that dig into the wire, which in turn clips on to the coil. I have swapped the wires between the two different terminals, the problem remains with the same terminal. The bracket isn't very good, as I broke it when removing it. Really brittle. But after reattaching I can still get ignition from the good terminal but not from the bad. I'll go get some pics.
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Jul 9, 2009 21:38
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drat those flash photos make my bike look all scratched up, rusty and dusty. 1-4 coil:  Leads going into it:  2-3 coil with the plastic bracket intact.  The band aid is from trying to remove the bracket on 1-4. Broke the bracket and dug a nice hole in my thumb with a screwdriver.
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Jul 9, 2009 22:29
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Krakkles posted:If you're in SoCal, I'll do this for you for free. Wrong coast, but thanks tho  . Ended up not buying it since it couldn't hold an idle without having to rev it. I'm looking at a different bike now, but it also seems to have a slight idle issue. At idle, it stumbles a bit every so often. Once when i was talking to the seller, it stalled on its own. Is that a symptom of a bad carb?
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Jul 9, 2009 23:48
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Logue posted:Wrong coast, but thanks tho Not a bad carb, but a dirty one. Use it to talk him down a few hundred. If he spouts some bullshit about how he already did it blah blah blah, ask why it doesn't run right. Bikes with properly cleaned and synced carbs don't stumble or hesitate.
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Jul 10, 2009 00:09
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Logue posted:Wrong coast, but thanks tho Or the idle is set wrong, or it has old gas in it. Wouldn't be surprised if it just needs a cleaning, though.
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Jul 10, 2009 00:09
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Do motorcycles have a similar/better stopping distance than cars? They always ride my rear end so when I need to stop/ slow down I'm always worried I'm going to kill the helmetless douchebag. In other words, can a bike brake as well as my car?
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Jul 10, 2009 03:41
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wormil posted:For a one off check with local embroiderers, patches usually have minimums in the thousands although there are a few patch makers who will do hundreds but they are the same price as doing thousands somewhere else. drat, I'm looking to buy 3 or 4 at the most. Thanks though.
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Jul 10, 2009 03:48
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Triikan posted:Do motorcycles have a similar/better stopping distance than cars? They always ride my rear end so when I need to stop/ slow down I'm always worried I'm going to kill the helmetless douchebag. In other words, can a bike brake as well as my car? Well it all depends. If a rider is not trained in proper braking his stopping distances might as well be coasting to a stop if he is only using the rear brake. Most motorcycle braking studies put the 60-0 stopping distance of a sport bike in the 145-160 foot range, which long even compared to normal cars. My rabbit supposedly stops from 60 in 120 feet according to a few car magazines. And that is just put pedal to the floor in a panic situation. Riders need modulate pressure with there foot and hand, and do all the front/rear balancing manually. In short, if a rider is following too close and you panic brake, expect to hear a splat.
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Jul 10, 2009 03:50
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Triikan posted:Do motorcycles have a similar/better stopping distance than cars? They always ride my rear end so when I need to stop/ slow down I'm always worried I'm going to kill the helmetless douchebag. In other words, can a bike brake as well as my car? But yeah, there doesn't seem to be much consensus other than a Fifth Gear segment where a Gallardo out-braked a 1098, which is actually a reasonable comparison, I think.
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Jul 10, 2009 03:57
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Triikan posted:Do motorcycles have a similar/better stopping distance than cars? They always ride my rear end so when I need to stop/ slow down I'm always worried I'm going to kill the helmetless douchebag. In other words, can a bike brake as well as my car? The motorcyclists that I know ride a distance to the car that they feel they can brake adequately. Over time every motorcyclists starts getting closer and closer to cars, and I've noticed I've done it myself. It not only depends on the rider but the motorcycle, but mostly a rider. A DRZ or a scooter will stop in no time due to having much less inertia compared to a 700lb+ cruiser.
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Jul 10, 2009 04:02
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Triikan posted:Do motorcycles have a similar/better stopping distance than cars? They always ride my rear end so when I need to stop/ slow down I'm always worried I'm going to kill the helmetless douchebag. In other words, can a bike brake as well as my car? I don't think so, no. The bike should be on the outside of the lane though so if you do make a quick stop they can go around you (not saying it's okay for them to tailgate you). I have the opposite problem, cars have a tendency to follow way too closely when I'm on my bike.
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Jul 10, 2009 04:12
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Triikan posted:Do motorcycles have a similar/better stopping distance than cars? They always ride my rear end so when I need to stop/ slow down I'm always worried I'm going to kill the helmetless douchebag. In other words, can a bike brake as well as my car? Bikes have the traction advantage. Cars have the tipover angle advantage. ;-) Bikes have a high center of gravity, which means they need a lower acceleration to tip up. I'd need a drawing to make it really clear. A vehicle will tip over when the combination vector between their weight (gravity) and the force acting against them (braking or accelerating) passes their contact patch on the ground. Vectors are measured from a bodies center of mass. To use some extreme examples, take a wood block, and stand it on end. If you shift the table under it, you need to accelerate it very slowly, or else it will tip over. If you lay the block down, you can accelerate the table very quickly without the block tipping up. (pulling a wheelie...) With sticky tires, a car will stop MUCH faster than a bike. And with sufficent horsepower they will also accelerate much faster. Bikes only have good 1/4 mile times due to high trap speeds, even mediocre drag cars rape bikes in the 60'. Reality is, most cars are running all season radials. And they can't come even close to pulling a stoppie like a bike can. I think that with current technology cars are stopping in the 120' range from 60mph. Bikes are in the same ballpark. and sadly, the biggest factor in braking is driver attentiveness, and braking skill. It doens't matter how fast you stop, if the driver behind you doesn't stop.
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Jul 10, 2009 04:57
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