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What the gently caress. So I got a Motion Pro Carb sync tool. One of the liquid kinds, and I hooked it up right and the bike is trying drat hard to suck the fluid right into it. Is there somewhere that lists the vacuum made by an '06 SV650? It says not to use if it makes more than 40cm hg or 7.7psi of vacuum. Does the SV really make that much? Could I have cut my tubes to short? Does that affect things? TheFonz fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jul 21, 2009 |
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Jul 21, 2009 23:02
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So I posted a while ago in here asking for help with my CB200's ignition system, I finally got back to where the bike is and got to working on it today... And, success! Turns out the contact breaker wasn't adjusted properly but once I manually opened and closed the connection it sparked just fine. Finally back on track with the project, though I expect as fuel delivery is up next I'll be back with questions. Just wanted to say thanks.
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Jul 21, 2009 23:58
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I did not spend last night at home and thus havent been home since about 9am on Monday morning... anyway I came home today to find my bike in an odd state. I park my bike outside with a disc lock and a locked cover. Both ends of the cover had been lifted up, and while it does get windy round here, thats never happened before. Also the front wheel had a pink line down one side and a blue line down the other, but just in the treads. I though maybe it was chalk from a meter maid or something, but the lines didn't come off when i rubbed them. Did I just miss the fact that my front tire has always had pink and blue lines on it? This is just so weird.
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Jul 22, 2009 01:54
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New tyres will usually have some lines on them, but they'll run all the way around.
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Jul 22, 2009 02:16
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TheFonz posted:What the gently caress. How are you trying to sync it? It shouldn't be dragging a huge amount of vaccum at idle.
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Jul 22, 2009 02:20
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Did you install the flow restrictors? Anything lighter than mercury or more viscous than gear oil will get sucked out if run unrestricted. I considered buying one of those Motion-Pro units, but I read a lot of complaints about them after they switched from mercury to whatever blue crap they use now.
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Jul 22, 2009 02:54
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So does anyone have any opinions on Bridgestone Battlax for tires? They say they compare to Dunlop Qualifier, Michelin Pilot Power/Pilot Sport HPX, Pirelli Diablo/Rosso and Metzeler Sportec M-3/M-1. I have a Bridgestone dealer near me, is mostly why i'm asking. It's what my bike has on it now, but they need replacing as the sidewalls are cracking. They might be fine for a couple of short trips in town, but not much more. To be honest I don't know a whole lot about Motorcycle tires, I just want a nice, middle of the road tire. Not something thats so hard that it won't grip, but at the same time something not soft enough to where I have to replace them in 600 miles.
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Jul 22, 2009 03:55
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almost everything bridgestone makes is battlax. what model tire? If thye're BT45's that's what I run on my bikes. I like them.
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Jul 22, 2009 04:19
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Chairon posted:So does anyone have any opinions on Bridgestone Battlax for tires? They say they compare to Dunlop Qualifier, Michelin Pilot Power/Pilot Sport HPX, Pirelli Diablo/Rosso and Metzeler Sportec M-3/M-1. I have a Bridgestone dealer near me, is mostly why i'm asking. Depends, as Nero says, on the tire. Personally, I'm very partial to Pirellis/Metzlers for street use. They're a very soft sidewall, so they insulate you from bumps and pavement imperfections and they stick like crazy. Diablo Corsa 3s/M-3s are the street/track tires, Diablo Rossos/Z6 Interacts are the sport touring tires. Avoid the Pilot Sport HPXs, as they're a very old tire, and even a "new" one could be past it's sell by date. Pilot Roads or Pilot Road 2s are also good sport touring tires, Powers/Power 2cts are good street/track tires. What sort of riding do you do? If it's mostly commuting and twisty stuff, stick with Michelin Pilot Roads, Pirelli Diablo Rossos, Metzler Z6 Interacts, and similar such tires. If it's mostly twistys with some track, get the full sport tires. If it's a daily driver/commuter, get the sport touring stuff, if it's a pleasure vehicle get the sporty stuff. Note: Even the sport touring rubber will allow you to go very, very fast. I run sport touring rubber on all of my streetbikes and have zero problems keeping up with any sane sportbike riders on the street, on a 600 pound touring bike.
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Jul 22, 2009 04:51
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Bucephalus posted:Did you install the flow restrictors? Anything lighter than mercury or more viscous than gear oil will get sucked out if run unrestricted. Yea, they have the flow restrictors in them that the tool came with but it is the blue poo poo that the new stuff has. I reread the directions and it says to cut the tube into 4 equal lengths. This would have left me with like 4 five ft. lengths. I cut before I read and now I have 8 2.5ft lengths cause I was thinking ok spares. Will makeing the hoses twice as long help me out? Vacuum hose is cheap.
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Jul 22, 2009 05:05
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Nerobro posted:almost everything bridgestone makes is battlax. what model tire? If thye're BT45's that's what I run on my bikes. I like them. Oh, nevermind, apparently Bridgestone doesn't make a rear tire in the size for my bike(130/70-17) Tires are apparently very confusing for me  Z3n posted:Depends, as Nero says, on the tire. I haven't ridden it yet, but I plan on using it for everything. I can't really justify my Jeep and it's 9 MPG anymore, so it'll be my daily driver pretty much. And i'm looking at Bike Bandit, it's only showing seven tires that will fit my rear. And of those seven, I think i'd either go with the Pirelli Sport demons or Michelin Pilot Activs. It also shows some Metzler Lasertecs, but they seem pretty pricey. Is installing them something I could do at home, or should I just take them to a shop? Chairon fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jul 22, 2009 |
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Jul 22, 2009 05:22
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TheFonz posted:Yea, they have the flow restrictors in them that the tool came with but it is the blue poo poo that the new stuff has. I reread the directions and it says to cut the tube into 4 equal lengths. This would have left me with like 4 five ft. lengths. I cut before I read and now I have 8 2.5ft lengths cause I was thinking ok spares. Will makeing the hoses twice as long help me out? Vacuum hose is cheap. Is it pulling the fluid out of one particular line or all of them at once?
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Jul 22, 2009 05:33
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Mercator posted:Now the back sliding around could mean that your tires are poo poo or that you are too focused on not killing yourself instead of letting the bike do its thing. The tires are supposed to be about a month/500km old, I haven't had a chance to research them and make sure they're not some cheap poo poo ones though. And yeah, I'm pretty aware of the fact that I have no idea and I think it is holding me back and making me a little over cautious at times. I've caught myself trying to correct a slight wobble with slowing down, which leads to less gyro effect and more wobbles, going wide on a corner by trying to turn the handle bars instead of leannig, etc. The fun of learning I guess. Rudager fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jul 22, 2009 |
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Jul 22, 2009 06:03
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Rudager posted:The tires are supposed to be about a month/500km old, I haven't had a chance to research them and make sure they're not some cheap poo poo ones though. First of all, check the date codes on your tires. I just posted a thread called "Tire Basics" that'll help you do that. You've only got access to bias plies for your bike, I'd go with the pirelli sport demons...because bias plies are mostly phased out, they tend to only make the good, proven, popular tires now. Also, don't turn the bike by leaning, turn it by counter-steering. You're running wide because you're turning the bike into the corner, not countersteering it into the corner.
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Jul 22, 2009 06:43
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Z3n posted:Also, don't turn the bike by leaning, turn it by counter-steering. You're running wide because you're turning the bike into the corner, not countersteering it into the corner. Its also good to make sure you're in the right gear for the corner. You should be in a gear where you can quickly accelerate to tighten up the turn if you're going wide. Nothing sucks worse than loving up a corner setup and realizing that you're going too slow in fifth gear to tighten it up. Ask me how I know 
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Jul 22, 2009 12:08
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Chairon posted:Oh, nevermind, apparently Bridgestone doesn't make a rear tire in the size for my bike(130/70-17) Tires are apparently very confusing for me :psyduck: The Ninja 250 people love those tires. Since 130/70-17 is the same size as the rear on the '08+ Ninja 250, have a link to the ninja250.org wiki which outlines all of the tires available in that size.
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Jul 22, 2009 15:29
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8ender posted:Is it pulling the fluid out of one particular line or all of them at once? Well, I have the line split with their little bard it comes with to sync the gauge itself. 1 hose comes from cyl 1 and goes into this little plastic splitter guy. Then 3 of the ends are capped and two go to gauge 1 and 2. Both of these are getting pulled. Also, yes this is at idle, like 1500 rpm.
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Jul 22, 2009 16:04
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TheFonz posted:Well, I have the line split with their little bard it comes with to sync the gauge itself. 1 hose comes from cyl 1 and goes into this little plastic splitter guy. Then 3 of the ends are capped and two go to gauge 1 and 2. Both of these are getting pulled. Also, yes this is at idle, like 1500 rpm. Is Cylinder 2 hooked up somewhere in this as well?
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Jul 22, 2009 16:11
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I've been having trouble with the right turn signal on my '09 250R. Within a few weeks of getting the bike in November the right rear signal intermittently stopped working. After a while, it didn't work at all anymore. I finally got around to replacing the bulb a few weeks ago. It worked only for about a day before it intermittently stopped working again, and then stopped working altogether, just like before. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Things I could try to get it to work? Thanks
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Jul 22, 2009 17:21
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take it to the dealer.
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Jul 22, 2009 17:30
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Nerobro posted:take it to the dealer. I got an appointment for Saturday. If it's an easy fix I was hoping to avoid taking it to the dealer.
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Jul 22, 2009 17:54
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most likely it's a bad flasher relay. Easy fix or not, it won't be a free fix. Edit: it won't be free if he fixes it himself... If he has the dealer do it, it will be free. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jul 22, 2009 |
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Jul 22, 2009 18:27
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Wouldn't an '09 still be under warranty (provided you haven't busted the mileage limitation of course)?
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Jul 22, 2009 18:33
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8ender posted:Is Cylinder 2 hooked up somewhere in this as well? No, I have to make sure the gauge is correct off the first cyl. Calibrating the gauge, and I'm doing it right, I just am wondering if short hoses could cause this effect?
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Jul 22, 2009 20:27
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TheFonz posted:No, I have to make sure the gauge is correct off the first cyl. Calibrating the gauge, and I'm doing it right, I just am wondering if short hoses could cause this effect? You don't "calibrate" it. You adjust the 2 together so they pull the same amount of vaccum at idle and at small throttle openings. You are using this tool, correct? http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/motorcycleaccessorywarehouse/the-1241638/Tools/Detail
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Jul 22, 2009 20:52
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TheFonz posted:No, I have to make sure the gauge is correct off the first cyl. Calibrating the gauge, and I'm doing it right, I just am wondering if short hoses could cause this effect? If you're using the one I'm thinking of you need to have both hooked up at the same time. You want to balance the fluid levels against each other, not to a particular level on the meter. If you have just one hooked up the vacuum will suck all the fluid out like you described.
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Jul 22, 2009 21:15
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TheFonz posted:No, I have to make sure the gauge is correct off the first cyl. Calibrating the gauge, and I'm doing it right, I just am wondering if short hoses could cause this effect? The fluid should not be rising higher than the level of the measuring lines. If it is then there is a problem. Hose length will not change how far the fluid moves in response to a vacuum. Edit: The above only applies to a vacuum measuring tool. If you have a differential vacuum tool then things are different.
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Jul 22, 2009 21:17
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frozenphil posted:Wouldn't an '09 still be under warranty (provided you haven't busted the mileage limitation of course)? Yes, it's still under warranty. Dealer it is then, I suppose.
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Jul 22, 2009 21:19
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Blakeem bin Bustin posted:Yes, it's still under warranty. Dealer it is then, I suppose. If you have a warranty, by all means take advantage of it. If nothing else, if you try to fix it and fail, they'll use that as an excuse to void your warranty.
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Jul 22, 2009 21:40
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Blakeem bin Bustin posted:Yes, it's still under warranty. Dealer it is then, I suppose. Yeah guy, take it to the dealer. Warranties aren't like car insurance; your rates aren't going to go up if you make a claim on your warranty. I don't fix a thing outside of routine maintenance and wear items on any vehicle I own while it is under warranty as that's the entire purpose of a warranty.
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Jul 22, 2009 22:15
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This might be a bit subjective, but where would a good place to be to practice my Panic stops? Is it illegal to just find some lonely road and do it there? I've worked hard to not have gotten a ticket since i've been driving, I don't wanna start now.
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Jul 24, 2009 00:33
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Chairon posted:This might be a bit subjective, but where would a good place to be to practice my Panic stops? Is it illegal to just find some lonely road and do it there? I've worked hard to not have gotten a ticket since i've been driving, I don't wanna start now. I've used parking lots and lonely roads. Never had a problem, but I've always picked out of the way places too.
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Jul 24, 2009 00:39
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I got some nice Pirelli Sport Demons for my Yamaha Maxim 750. Is it hard to remove the rear wheel from a shaft-driven bike? If I bring the bike to a shop to have a shop remove the wheels and mount tires, what would be a reasonable price?
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Jul 24, 2009 00:57
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It tells me to calibrate it in the directions. I hook them both up to one cylinder with the splitter and then turn the little screws to make sure the fluid levels match up with each other. I am not doing it to a line on the tool, just to the point where they are level when reading the same TB. That way I know the two parts are showing the same level for the same TB. The 2nd TB is still plugged with the vacuum cap like it is supposed to be when riding. It is this: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=&catId=&productId=p282760&leafCatId=&mmyId= Am I making sense?
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Jul 24, 2009 01:14
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TheFonz posted:It tells me to calibrate it in the directions. I hook them both up to one cylinder with the splitter and then turn the little screws to make sure the fluid levels match up with each other. I am not doing it to a line on the tool, just to the point where they are level when reading the same TB. That way I know the two parts are showing the same level for the same TB. The 2nd TB is still plugged with the vacuum cap like it is supposed to be when riding. The overall amount of vaccum/level of the fluid doesn't really matter, it just matters that the levels match when you have them hooked up to the intakes.
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Jul 24, 2009 01:46
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I'm finally back from my 3 week long work trip and I'm ready to start working on my new (to me) Ninja 250 so I can start riding. Here's the list of things I think I've got to do before riding: 1. Change Oil (It's darker than the black paint on my bike) 2. Install new battery 3. Install new tires 4. Maybe clean carbs 5. Get new gas I've got a few questions. Can I change the oil without running the bike for 5 minutes first? The bike doesn't start in its current condition but this seems like the easiest thing to start with. Does anyone know any good motorcycle parts stores north of Boston? I'm willing to drive a little bit, and I have a few places I'm going to check out tomorrow, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a particularly good place. Is it worth trying to change the tires myself without a real dedicated place to work on my bike? I would normally be parking on the street, but the super of my apartment building let me park in the grass next to the building for a while. I still may need to move the bike to a storage unit for a while if it takes me too long to get it running.
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Jul 24, 2009 02:26
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NoCleverName posted:I'm finally back from my 3 week long work trip and I'm ready to start working on my new (to me) Ninja 250 so I can start riding. Here's the list of things I think I've got to do before riding: Yes, not I, no. You could pull the wheels, but swapping the tires is a pain. Spend the 40$ and take it to a cycle gear or something. Some shops will even provide you with stands and tools so you can ride in and pull your tires.
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Jul 24, 2009 03:19
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If there was a 40% chance of thunder/lightning storms for a 150 miles stretch of a road trip would you still consider driving through them? Coming down to a go/no-go road trip which has perfect weather about 3/4 of the way, and basically poo poo weather the entire time at the destination. Ugh 
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Jul 24, 2009 04:48
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dietcokefiend posted:If there was a 40% chance of thunder/lightning storms for a 150 miles stretch of a road trip would you still consider driving through them? Coming down to a go/no-go road trip which has perfect weather about 3/4 of the way, and basically poo poo weather the entire time at the destination. Ugh I would, but in a drat the Torpedoes sense. If you've got a place to stay that is dry and to get yourself dry, and have decent rain gear, and you trust yourself to ride in rain/gusting winds then go for it. Isolated Thunderstorms sure Severe Thunderstorms maybe not? Expecting any hail? blugu64 fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Jul 24, 2009 |
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Jul 24, 2009 05:33
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blugu64 posted:I would, but in a drat the Torpedoes sense. If you've got a place to stay that is dry and to get yourself dry, and have decent rain gear, and you trust yourself to ride in rain/gusting winds then go for it. Isolated Thunderstorms sure Severe Thunderstorms maybe not? Expecting any hail? Well I feel pretty confident, but this will hit me after about 4 hours of riding, which is beyond anything I have done to date. Decent waterproof rain gear, ABS on the bike for anything slick I might encounter, and high winds are nothing new at least in this area. So far only scattered thunderstorms, no mention of hail. Even if there were I am not sure it would be that bad.
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Jul 24, 2009 05:45
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