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Simkin posted:Well, I don't know about the others specifically, but the GS500 didn't change terribly much during its production run starting in
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# ? Jul 25, 2009 01:52 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 07:54 |
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How about this EX250 for a first bike? http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/mcy/1278744445.html I got to inspect it this morning. It's really clean but I'm not any sort of mechanic so there's only so much I could glean. It sounded good and not like it was having any trouble as he rode it around the parking lot. I want to replace the tires for some Pirelli Sport Demons since the Dunlop650s that are on there aren't well-rated. I'd have to put it through the ninja250.org 6000mile tune-up/maintenance list. Then there's tax + licensing, new tires, etc. But for $2300 more I can get a new one OTD. I'd probably feel the same amount of guilt dropping this one as I would a new one. It's not like it's already scuffed up. (I took and passed the MSF course this weekend, before anyone asks!) Basically it comes down to this one or a new one. Advice? (edit: my math sucks) Kairo fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jul 25, 2009 |
# ? Jul 25, 2009 02:15 |
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Nerobro posted:I can use most of the parts from a 1977 gs400 engine on a 2009 gs500 engine. Hey, if it's not broke...
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# ? Jul 25, 2009 02:22 |
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Kairo posted:How about this EX250 for a first bike? I would say that seems high for a 2004, but that's a 2006 . Still is more than I would pay, see if you can knock him down a hundred or two. I would still go used, since why not save a couple thou? Use that for better/more gear or something instead.
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# ? Jul 25, 2009 03:21 |
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Kairo posted:How about this EX250 for a first bike? Buy used, spend the additional money on gear and your bank account.
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# ? Jul 25, 2009 04:53 |
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Simkin posted:Hey, if it's not broke... No kidding. :-) I'm just sad the rest of the GS line has finally bit the dust. The old bandits were the last holdouts of that sort of bike, and now they've gone water cooled, any lineage is now gone. That is something to think about though. Suzuki designed an engine in 1976, and you can still buy it today. Despite changing emissions standards! They actually went 4 stroke for one silly reason, the gas crunch hit, so they decided the 30some MPG that the 2 strokes got wasn't good enough.
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# ? Jul 26, 2009 06:34 |
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The only cheap middleweight GSes I can find around here are Limiteds, and I flatly refuse to own one, simply for aesthetic reasons. But Nighthawks with gaudy chrome stripes and missing sidecovers are A-OK.
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# ? Jul 26, 2009 18:05 |
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I kind of want this thing: http://baltimore.craigslist.org/mcy/1289648478.html
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 04:01 |
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I'm not looking seriously right now, but just so I can keep it in mind, I'm curious as to where I should look for my next bike. I'm currently on a 1997 Yamaha Virago 750. I like the bike a lot, although it has two drawbacks. One, is that it's a fairly small bike for someone with long legs like mine. But my biggest complaint is that the bike is geared VERY short. First gear is done almost by the time the clutch is fully engaged, and at 65mph it's turning 4000rpm. The bike is a shaft-drive, so there's no way to easily rectify this problem. Here's what I'd like in my next bike: -TALL GEARING. Nice low RPMs at highway speeds, please. -Shaft drive. -Air cooled. -Cheap (Sub $3k) -Cruiser -Good mileage (current bike can nudge 60mph with me + gear if I keep it around 50mph) -Not too powerful (~55hp is plenty for me, and screw displacement, my penis is big enough) Ideas?
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 08:01 |
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sounds like you need a harley. the only driveline that has less maintance needs than a shaft is a belt. And.... if you're getting 55mpg, why do you need to turn lower rpms?
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 15:29 |
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Kairo posted:Basically it comes down to this one or a new one. Advice? If you can deal with the old bike's looks, go for the used one as they are basically the same other than looks.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 15:51 |
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frozenphil posted:If you can deal with the old bike's looks, go for the used one as they are basically the same other than looks. On dark lonely nights in the country you can channel the spirit of the 80s on the old ones.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 16:07 |
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Nerobro posted:sounds like you need a harley. the only driveline that has less maintance needs than a shaft is a belt. because I only get that mileage if I keep it around 3000rpm, which is like 50mph. Much above 60mph and the mileage starts plummetting, and at 70mph I'm lucky to get 35mpg. It's also not pleasent to have to listen to 5000rpm for hours at a time if I want to just keep up with highway traffic. Belt is sort of out of the question as well. While I like cruisers, I spent a lot of time on gravel/dirt/mud roads, which destroy belts in short order. And I have a major aversion to a Hardly-ableson, mostly for the ludicrous price and al the stupidity that surrounds them.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 18:17 |
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Tsaven Nava posted:It's also not pleasent to have to listen to 5000rpm for hours at a time if I want to just keep up with highway traffic.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 18:34 |
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You won't get good mileage on a bike at 70. Well not great mileage. I get mid 40's on my gs550es. Bikes are aerodynamic bricks. Drag goes up to the square of speed. Engine rpm really isn't a huge factor in mileage. It's hp used that matters.
Nerobro fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 27, 2009 |
# ? Jul 27, 2009 18:39 |
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Tsaven Nava posted:Belt is sort of out of the question as well. While I like cruisers, I spent a lot of time on gravel/dirt/mud roads, which destroy belts in short order. This isn't true. Also, you should really stop worrying about what people will think of you if you buy a harley. I am the polar opposite of the standard Harley rider, being a graduate student and competing in motorcycle trials (and soon to be hare scrambles!). People on message boards love smearing Harley, but who actually values the opinions of random poster X? With 3g you can get a mid 90's 1200 which will be rock solid dead reliable, and 10x easier to work on than your Virago.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 18:44 |
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VTNewb posted:This isn't true. Ha, I just feel like the HOG is going to kill me dead if I actually ride with full safty gear, instead of the "Harley Armor" of jeans, a thin leather vest, and little half-helmet. And I was under the impression that if you get a rock or something in between the belt and rear pully, the belts can get shredded very quickly. If I was going to do anything besides a shaft drive, I'd just do a chain drive. I hear a V-strom calling my name very frequently.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 20:30 |
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Nerobro posted:You won't get good mileage on a bike at 70. Well not great mileage. I get mid 40's on my gs550es. Bikes are aerodynamic bricks. Drag goes up to the square of speed. Engine rpm really isn't a huge factor in mileage. It's hp used that matters. I could deal with 40s. It's just that my bike plummets into the 30s if I actually run at interstate-highway speeds. I do wear earplugs while I ride, but they cut out more of the wind noise then engine roar. It's just such an unpleasent sound to have to listen to when the engine is turning that fast.
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 20:32 |
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faster turning engines make higher pitched noises, and earplugs deal with those better. :-)
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# ? Jul 27, 2009 21:36 |
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I'm thinking that a good candidate might be a BMW K bike, K75 or K100. Not a cruiser, but great highway bike, high 40's MPG, shaft drive that doesn't explode, smooth like a turbine (too smooth for me) and not unwieldly large. The other bike you might look at is an older Virago, the original version that was less cruiser and more standard, although they are getting a bit old these days and might not be as reliable as you'd need. I'm trying to think of a bike that hits all of your requirements and coming up blank. We could suggest any number of bikes that will give you 5 out of 7. Keep in mind that the new Buell Ulysses belt is made to handle gravel, rocks, ball bearings, etc. Harley went with a new manufacturer for the belts to gain this new durability company wide, so I wouldn't pass over Harley-and Harleys make it to Inuvik and Deadhorse all the time.
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# ? Jul 28, 2009 02:45 |
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Gnomad posted:Keep in mind that the new Buell Ulysses belt is made to handle gravel, rocks, ball bearings, etc. Harley went with a new manufacturer for the belts to gain this new durability company wide, so I wouldn't pass over Harley-and Harleys make it to Inuvik and Deadhorse all the time. But but but . . . my penis still works! I'm not allowed to own a Harley yet.
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# ? Jul 28, 2009 02:57 |
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Tsaven Nava posted:But but but . . . my penis still works! I'm not allowed to own a Harley yet. Ummm, do they check? That could be awkward. Thread derail-those commercials about whichever boner donor pill tells you to "Ask you doctor if you are healthy enough for sexual activities?" Well, if the doctor unzips and says "Let's find out" I'm outta there!
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# ? Jul 28, 2009 03:01 |
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Gnomad posted:Ummm, do they check? That could be awkward. I have a lot of videos on my harddrive saying that you will make a huge mistake.
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# ? Jul 28, 2009 08:09 |
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Ok. Im going for my Pre learners test on the 6-7 of August, So hopefully Ill be bike ready on the 8th.... But the bike options at the moment are a immaculate Hodaka Combat Wombat, a not so immaculate Hodaka Swamp rat ( ?) and a AT1 thats worse for wear but my pride and joy. Anyone who has seen it in my whoring of CT's threads would understand a Hodaka is a better choice.... Anyway, Either are a poor choice of first bike due to the relative lack of spares and the fact that Shoe polish tin brakes are bigger. Handling..pfft! Ive pretty much been told no to a RD ( at least till off my Provisional licence) by the fountain of all things bike knowledge related. Doesnt stop me getting one as a toy however. So that leaves me needing a bike thats under 150KW per tonne (Thats .15kw per kg) and under 650cc. Fortunately I can use the FZ750 to fund such pursuits. A Fazer would be good but its over the power to weight. I would like something that at least looks a bit sporty, As my family is Yamaha or Ducati ( Because several have worked for Yamaha or Yamaha owned companies...One uncle is the warranty "Buck stops here" guy ) I have no idea on any other brands. It needs to handle, have good brakes and be able to beat traffic from the lights...So no postie bikes or 125 4 strokes..... Any ideas what to look at? Trailbike on Road tyres perhaps?
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 02:29 |
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Where do you live? According to wikipedia a 2008 ninja 250 weighs 151 kg and makes 26.4 HP (19.7kW) which is about 130 kW/metric ton. You should be fine with any 250 cc street bike, most of which have twice the power to weight ratio of your typical econobox. Fun fact: A 250 cc four stroke motocross bike is over 250 kW/ton. SanitysEdge fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Jul 29, 2009 |
# ? Jul 29, 2009 02:49 |
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I live in New South Wales Australia, Think it as the California of Australia with more fun police..... A 250 4 stroke is going to be legal and the "Racing" 250 2 strokes ( They list them) are not. So a RD250lc is legal even though its over the power to weight!
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 03:36 |
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What are suggestions for entry-level Enduro/Dual-sport/motards? I've been riding about a year, but on a 150cc scooter, so I'll need to learn how to shift...
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 03:56 |
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So, I rode a Yamaha scooter for a few years back when I was a teenager, rode a dirtbike a bit here and there, and have been wanting to find something to learn on now that I'm older and wiser. While flipping through craigslist I happened upon this 1980 Suzuki GS850GL. http://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/1287499649.html so... I'm going to go look at it tomorrow, anything in particular I would be wary of with these bikes? I'm paranoid that even though I can't find anything of note through google, that doesn't mean there's nothing to worry about.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 05:03 |
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Just the normal GS charging system woes. Otherwise, they're loving tanks.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 05:37 |
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Raven457 posted:So, I rode a Yamaha scooter for a few years back when I was a teenager, rode a dirtbike a bit here and there, and have been wanting to find something to learn on now that I'm older and wiser. BUY IT YOU human being. BUY IT BUY IT BUY IT BUY IT I mean, gently caress, for $600? If you can ride it home at all it's a steal for that price.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 05:38 |
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Armacham posted:What are suggestions for entry-level Enduro/Dual-sport/motards? If you can track down a Super Sherpa that's about as entry level as it gets (and it's got a lower seat height than most DS bikes to boot). Or, a KLR/KLX250, XT225, TW200, DR200, or DRZ400 should all be pretty reasonable if you've got long legs. If you feel confident about handling the weight offroad, an XR650L, DR650, or KLR650 (first gen) won't get you into much trouble either. Phy fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Jul 29, 2009 |
# ? Jul 29, 2009 05:54 |
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Kaptainballistik posted:I live in New South Wales Australia, Think it as the California of Australia with more fun police..... Is the Elsie on the list? I doubt it. If you want something relatively sporty you'll have to fork out for a CBR/FZR/ZXR 250. Or a DR-Z400SM would be a good choice if you're in the city. EDIT: You're poo poo outta luck sonny, the only Yammy smoker available is the RD400. EDIT THE 2ND: Hit up the KTM LC4 Duke. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jul 29, 2009 |
# ? Jul 29, 2009 06:41 |
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Is the Elsie on the list? I doubt it. If you want something relatively sporty you'll have to fork out for a CBR/FZR/ZXR 250. Or a DR-Z400SM would be a good choice if you're in the city. Any 250 that Isnt mentioned is ok..
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 07:16 |
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So...just kind of general bike buying question. If there were a bike that was within a single day's riding range that you were interested in, but too far to go to just check it out, would you: a)Ask someone in these lovely forums to go check it out for you? b)Just pull the trigger if it was a really good deal and ask the seller to meet you halfway? c)Just wait until something comes up closer that you could check out in person before buying? One of the reasons I really liked using CL to buy my 1st bike was that I could go check out the bike in person first and see if the seller was a retard. I guess some people buy bikes blind but that seems kind of scary to me.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 16:59 |
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Oakey posted:So...just kind of general bike buying question. If there were a bike that was within a single day's riding range that you were interested in, but too far to go to just check it out, would you: I'd call the person, try and get a good feel for things over the phone, and then go for it. If someone was local to check it out, even better. You could also attempt to negotiate a PPI...most buyers are willing to at least split them with you because it gives them a little bargaining tool as well.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 17:44 |
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Z3n posted:You could also attempt to negotiate a PPI...most buyers are willing to at least split them with you because it gives them a little bargaining tool as well. Huh? I'm sure it would be a great idea if I had any clue what that was or how it worked
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 18:24 |
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Oakey posted:Huh? I'm sure it would be a great idea if I had any clue what that was or how it worked Pre Purchase Inspection. Most shops will do them for 40-80$, and they'll cover just about everything, and give you a rundown on the overall status of the motorcycle.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 18:42 |
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Phy posted:If you can track down a Super Sherpa that's about as entry level as it gets (and it's got a lower seat height than most DS bikes to boot). Or, a KLR/KLX250, XT225, TW200, DR200, or DRZ400 should all be pretty reasonable if you've got long legs. If you feel confident about handling the weight offroad, an XR650L, DR650, or KLR650 (first gen) won't get you into much trouble either. Thanks! I really like the KLR650 as far as looks go, and its decently priced. I'll probably take a swing down to a kawasaki dealer to take a look in person.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 19:24 |
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Just in case - you're going to look at a first-gen (2007 or earlier), yes? These ones: The second-gen that you're going to find new at the dealer are good machines as well, and there are a bunch of improvements over the first-gen, but if you don't have a lot of DS/dirt experience I'd really recommend installing some kind of crashbars before you take it offroad. The plastic panels on the side are much larger and more rigid than on the first-gen, and if you happen to drop the bike, you're probably going to crack the panel unless you're laying it softly into long, pillowy grass.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 20:17 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 07:54 |
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I've never really ridden a bike other than small displacement scooters and dirtbikes, so I mostly wanted just to take a look at some in person. I'm definitely not buying anything on this short of notice without a little more research.
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# ? Jul 29, 2009 21:34 |