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angelicism posted:I will call my vet first thing Monday morning. It was about time for both the buns to get a checkup anyway. Still, now I'm super stressed out. Wish I'd known this a few hours ago so I could've called today. It will be mild. Probably just a round of antibiotics and fees for a few cultures to be performed. It shouldn't be too expensive, but it is important to get checked as soon as you can.
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Jul 18, 2009 10:23
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Dunno if this is any help but a checkup, x-ray, overnight stay and meds cost me about 78 euro.
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Jul 18, 2009 15:55
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angelicism posted:What is treatment typically for a UTI? Obviously I will go to any expense for my baby girl but if it's going to be surgery or something I would like to know in advance. I gave Bitsy oral anti-biotics for about a week. They flavoured them like bananas for her  I doubt that surgery is necessary for a UTI. The checkup and meds for her cost me about 120$
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Jul 18, 2009 19:49
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Last time we discussed relative fees my spaying costs (in Manhattan) were exorbitant compared to all of you, but at least this gives me a base idea, thanks. 
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Jul 18, 2009 20:25
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I thought this would make everyone giggle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HiO9rzU_aw
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Jul 18, 2009 22:44
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Neu posted:I thought this would make everyone giggle. Indeed it has. D'awww. This one always makes me happy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idsR8xY7Mo4&feature=rec-HM-rn
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Jul 19, 2009 06:43
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I've been wanting to get a bunny for the longest time. The thing is, I would rather adopt one from the humane society then buy from a breeder. I've researched it a lot but I haven't really found a conclusive answer so I thought I would post here. My question is: can you teach an old bunny new tricks? I mean, just how hard is it to incorporate an older bunny into your household? I also have two kitties and I'm worried that an older bun would not take to them as well. Thoughts? Advice?
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Jul 19, 2009 08:41
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I would tell you about my cousin's rabbit, who one day didn't notice the cat walking past him until the cat was very close, then promptly fell over dead from fright. The cat wasn't even doing anything. There might be people who have cats and rabbits but if I had to guess it's with a rabbit who grew up with cats from a young age.
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Jul 19, 2009 11:58
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That scares the poop out of me. I'd not like to kill my new friend.
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Jul 19, 2009 12:32
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Well, how old is old? A lot of the rabbits I see around for adoption are actually quite young. All three of my rabbits I adopted (through various means) and they were all at around 6 months old. I check my local SPCA website and petfinder fairly often, and rabbits over two years old are rare. My rabbits are fine with all the cats they've encountered and none of them were around cats before I got them. The cats don't peg them as prey because housebunnies are chill enough not to run when they first see a cat - usually the cats are more nervous than the bunnies are. My rabbits were even pretty chill about my housemate's badly-trained Labrador puppy. They pick weird things to be startled by - A dog barking his head off and crashing into their cage doesn't phase them, but god forbid someone down the hall opens their apartment door. Some rabbits are just skittish and nervous in general but you can definitely screen for that when you go to adopt. I wouldn't be too concerned. Edit: The first cat they met was younger and more curious than the other cats, and she liked to get in or on top of the cage and bat at the bunnies' ears. Usually the rabbits would just move out of her range, but one time Nobbers got angry and actually attacked back - I have never seen a more surprised cat. She left them alone after that... Bagleworm fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Jul 19, 2009 |
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Jul 19, 2009 15:47
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Bagleworm posted:Well, how old is old? A lot of the rabbits I see around for adoption are actually quite young. All three of my rabbits I adopted (through various means) and they were all at around 6 months old. I check my local SPCA website and petfinder fairly often, and rabbits over two years old are rare. We adopted Eowyn a couple months ago from a rabbit rescue, and when we asked how old she is, they said that most rabbits they get are definitely less than a year, more like less than six months old.
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Jul 20, 2009 06:17
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DS at Night posted:I would tell you about my cousin's rabbit, who one day didn't notice the cat walking past him until the cat was very close, then promptly fell over dead from fright. The cat wasn't even doing anything. I've been "introducing" a cat and rabbit for a couple of months now and there hasn't been any rabbit falling over dead incidents. I don't know, it must just depend on the rabbit. Mine's older (probably 6-7 years) and kind of an ornery little bastard and for the most part he's content to ignore the cat unless she gets in his face. She's kind of young though and sometimes tries to stir up trouble by running at him. He usually just stands his ground and then charges her. The only big problem I guess we've had is that if she chases him from behind, then he runs, which prompts more chasing, etc. So we have to be careful to watch that...
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Jul 20, 2009 14:00
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I'm not saying it doesn't work out fine most of the time. But it only has to go wrong once.
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Jul 20, 2009 14:28
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ROFLSAURUS REX posted:I've been wanting to get a bunny for the longest time. The thing is, I would rather adopt one from the humane society then buy from a breeder. I've researched it a lot but I haven't really found a conclusive answer so I thought I would post here. My question is: can you teach an old bunny new tricks? I adopted an adult rabbit (Bowser) 8 years ago. Her age was estimated to be anywhere between 1 and 3 years. Two months after adopting her, I adopted a 9 month old cat (Emaline). They met with no issues- the cat chased her around in circles a couple of times, but it was all very playful- no "I'M GONNA EAT YOU" intent or panicky running. Nowadays Emaline doesn't give two shits about the rabbit unless she feels Bowser is getting too much attention, in which case she'll butt in and take over. Bowser tries to play with the cat and snuggle occasionally, but Emaline just isn't interested. Emaline will lick Bowser's face every now and then, though. A year after getting Emaline, I fostered an adult cat. She was about 5 and couldn't have cared less about the rabbit, though she did fight Emaline a few times. Another year later, I adopted a 3 month old kitten. She fell in love with the rabbit and they still get along famously. Two years after that, I found a very sick 4 week old kitten (Wally) on the street. After lots of TLC and bottle feeding (she had not yet learned how to lap), I introduced her to Bowser and the other cats. She loved the other cats but ran in terror from Bowser. This continues today- Bowser really seems to relish chasing Wally around the house. Obviously my situation isn't everyone's and I'd always reccommend close supervision when trying to introduce a rabbit into a new home. However, just wanted to throw my experience in there. Bowser is alone with the cats almost all day and never has had an issue with them. The cats fight with eachother plenty, but I've never seen a scrap of fur missing from Bowser.
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Jul 21, 2009 18:11
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angelicism posted:I will call my vet first thing Monday morning. It was about time for both the buns to get a checkup anyway. Still, now I'm super stressed out. Wish I'd known this a few hours ago so I could've called today. So how did it go?
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Jul 22, 2009 04:00
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Pardalis posted:So how did it go? Called the vet, have an appointment for Thursday, will let you all know if Zen has a UTI or not. :/ I'm bringing the other bun in for a checkup at the same time, I figure I may as well. Juggling two bunny carriers (no, they STILL don't get along) is going to be fun. (RE: bonding issues. They no longer fight, they mostly ignore each other actually, until they get close to each other or I put them in close quarters in the kitchen in a pitiful attempt to give them a date. Then they'll tussle a little in attempt to stick one's head under the other to get grooming. Neither will give in. I want to bop them on the heads sometimes and scream JUST GIVE HIM/HER A LICK ALREADY.  )
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Jul 22, 2009 05:02
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Have you tried putting a bit of yogurt/peanut butter/their favorite treat on top of one of their heads? Definitely results in some groomish actions...one's thinking "ooh I've got a treat" and the other one's thinking "I've just been groomed... YOU ARE NOW MY BITCH."
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Jul 22, 2009 05:48
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Scooty Puff Jr. posted:Have you tried putting a bit of yogurt/peanut butter/their favorite treat on top of one of their heads? Tried yogurt and some fruit and they still won't do it. The overwhelming I WILL NOT CONCEDE seems to overwhelm everything, apparently.  Actually, Zen cannot be bribed by food to do anything (if I'm trying to hand-feed her baby carrots, which she loves, she'll either snatch it out of my hand and haul it off to the back of her pen, or, if I don't let go, she'll just storm off anyway) and Frith can only be bribed occasionally by a few choice veggies, but those don't really stay on Zen's nose very well.
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Jul 22, 2009 06:07
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My poor bunny had mites. He has his meds now and is doing much better. It was amazing how much difference even a week made. His fur was back being its soft and fluffy self. Here he is Roger chillaxing in his tube after I did some cleaning. And in our house the cat and rabbit largely ignore each other. Roger was full grown when we introduced the cat to the household as a kitten. The kitten was kind of nervous about Roger, and Roger just didn't pay attention to the kitten. Now when they are both out the cat just watches Roger, if that. Once in a while they can be cute though. 
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Jul 23, 2009 22:29
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Zen and Frith had their checkup and they're both fine, the vet thinks it was just a one-time thing. That said, they're both a little overweight, so I'm going to have to start cutting back pellets for Zen (she loves them) and somehow induce Frith to run around more. Frith loves nothing more than to nap.
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Jul 25, 2009 00:13
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This is my little brother's pet rabbit, token: Click here for the full 1200x1600 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. My parents usually let her run around in the basement in the winter and outside in the summer. She's best known for, among other things, deciding she likes sitting in front of the washing machine and nipping at my mom's ankles if she tries to approach (she's figured out nobody else in the family will run away if she charges though). Also, the time she got out of the basement, made it up to my parents bed, where decided my dad's pillow was extremely comfortable. She then proceeded to pull out fur and make herself comfortable. My dad is allergic to fur; he wasn't pleased at all. Oh, and she'd threaten to bite anyone who came near her, she didn't want to leave the pillow. She's very cute when she doesn't think you're going to pick her up though or she doesn't feel like being territorial. evilweasel fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Jul 28, 2009 |
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Jul 28, 2009 14:36
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Sorry for the intrusion, but you guys are the closest things I know of to experts. There's a tiny baby rabbit on my driveway, about the size of a big hamster, and it seems to be all alone. It's about to start raining and I'm worried about the tiny thing, since it seems sort of sluggish. I haven't touched it or gone closer than about five feet, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do/should not do.
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Jul 28, 2009 15:28
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LightWarden posted:Sorry for the intrusion, but you guys are the closest things I know of to experts. There's a tiny baby rabbit on my driveway, about the size of a big hamster, and it seems to be all alone. It's about to start raining and I'm worried about the tiny thing, since it seems sort of sluggish. I haven't touched it or gone closer than about five feet, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do/should not do. Move it into the nearest bushes or tall grass. Use a towel between the bunny and your hand (mostly to protect yourself from whatever parasites it has). If the mom is still around she'll find it. Moms typically only come by once or twice a day so you'll probably never see her. However, it's about 99% likely gonna die, because that's what baby bunnies are for. Circle of life and all. If you really want to do more you can google "wildlife rehabilitation MyCity MyState" and contact one of those folks, and they'll have you bring it in. But a rehabber only raises the chances of survival by around 5% so it'll probably just die there instead.
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Jul 28, 2009 15:57
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I have done as you suggested, thanks for your help. Also, I realize there's a thread covering this very thing on the first page. Sorry about that.
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Jul 28, 2009 16:17
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I decided to ween my rabbits off pellets. In between I've had a UTI in one and then a bout with mites and they are both healthy now, BUT, they've both dropped about a pound and a half of weight. When we took them in for their last round of shots the vet was a little concerned and suggested we go back to putting pellets in their diet. I decided instead to try upping their daily veggies (and they always get unlimited hay) but I haven't been doing it long enough to see how it affects their weight, but I am curious if anyone else has experience with no a pellet diet and anything that might be a good idea to sub in to keep from having to go back to them.
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Jul 30, 2009 10:12
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GoodApollo posted:I am curious if anyone else has experience with no a pellet diet and anything that might be a good idea to sub in to keep from having to go back to them. How much does each weigh now, and how bunny-savvy is your vet? A lot of vets' only exposure to rabbits is their 3rd year work with lab rabbits, so they expect all rabbits to be giant lardasses like NZ whites. I have seen a number of rabbits who were desperately obese and yet the vet was telling the owner that the rabbit was fine. I would get a kitchen scale or baby scale and weigh them every week, and as long as their weight loss isn't dramatic and continuously increasing, don't worry about it. I've got a couple of buns who look the size of yours and they're in the 3-4lb range, and they feel nice and trim and muscular rather than oozy fat like they were at 5-6 lbs. I feed pellets about once a week, sometimes as infrequently as once every couple months. I don't make any changes to their veggies (I find that starchy or sugary veggies, which are the ones that are more calorie dense, tend to lead to more GI upset). When I do increase veggies I try not to feed more lettuces or leafy veggies, instead feeding more stemmy plants like parsley and kale; I find that too many soft leafies introduces is mostly water weight and their weight drops a bit. If you decide you really want to keep pellets in the diet - you mentioned earlier in the thread that you were feeding KayTee Timothy Complete - I'd get some Oxbow Bunny Basic T, which has less empty fillers, and go to a once per week or so feeding and see how that affects their weight. Keep in mind that when they get over 6 or so years old you'll want to watch their weight even more carefully and will probably want to put them on pellets again - that's why I feed as many pellets as I do, almost everyone in my house is 8-12 years old. Four years ago only the oldsters got pellets. Also: "round of shots"? Ivermectin for the mites, I assume?
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Jul 30, 2009 15:05
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alucinor posted:
can you post about what your rabbits daily food schedules are? I am curious about this!
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Jul 30, 2009 15:52
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GoodApollo posted:I decided to ween my rabbits off pellets. In between I've had a UTI in one and then a bout with mites and they are both healthy now, BUT, they've both dropped about a pound and a half of weight. When we took them in for their last round of shots the vet was a little concerned and suggested we go back to putting pellets in their diet. I decided instead to try upping their daily veggies (and they always get unlimited hay) but I haven't been doing it long enough to see how it affects their weight, but I am curious if anyone else has experience with no a pellet diet and anything that might be a good idea to sub in to keep from having to go back to them. After having a lot of GI issues with Bowser, our vet recommended we stop giving her pellets. We did, for about 6 months. Though we were giving her unlimited oxbow timothy hay, she's never been much of a fan... she eats it, but not enough. She loves her veggies, but is fickle and seems to insist we give her entirely different ones every day with no repeats within a week or so. She lost too much weight (her ribs became far too prominent) and was clearly grumpy. When she started picking fights with our cats in order to steal their dry food, we put her back on pellets. We still try to keep her primarily eating hay and veggies, but she just doesn't get enough out of that diet alone.
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Jul 30, 2009 16:34
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luscious posted:can you post about what your rabbits daily food schedules are? I am curious about this! Disclaimer: I do not feed exactly the diet recommended on rabbit.org, because I have lived with and observed these animals for 4-5 years each, they are mostly over 8 years old, many have chronic medical conditions, and I have adjusted their intake to meet their evolving needs accordingly. I still recommend that the average owner of young, healthy rabbits follow the rabbit.org diet closely and not make adjustments without veterinary advice unless you understand the nutritional and medical repercussions of what you are doing. Hay: I feed Kleenmama's bluegrass or orchard grass hay most of the year, Oxbow timothy when she's between crops. They do not like the timothy as much and do eat less/waste more. Twice a day I refill the hay mangers, each of which hold about 20oz of hay (they don't all go empty every day but do at least need refreshing - when it's a good box I go through a little less than 50 pounds a week for 26 animals - not quite 4 lbs per week per pair). Veggies: They get veggies 3-5 times per week - total is probably 50lbs or so per week. The bulk of their veggies are romaine lettuce, cilantro, parsley, dill, fennel, kale, bok choi, broccoli, brocc-rabe; with occasional red or green leaf, arugula, bell pepper, raddichio, spinach, celery. I rarely give carrots or fruit - less than four times a year I'd guess. I'd guess I give about 3 cups of veggies per animal at each veggie feed. If there's a lot of stemmy herbs may they get up to 4 cups each, if it's mostly romaine they may get less, say 1/4 of a head each which is probably under 2 cups. Again, this is a less frequent veggie schedule than is recommended on rabbit.org and is tailored to the needs of my specific animals. I do pick and choose who gets what based on medical history - for example I have one 12 year old who is a bitch to feed because she has a history of bladder sludge, so can't get anything high in oxalates or calcium, but she doesn't like lettuce, she prefers stemmy things. Another, a 6 year old, has problems with soft stools when she eats too many wet lettuces. These two tend to get the hand picked herbs and crisp baby lettuces. Pellets: About once a week I give about 1/2 cup of Oxbow BBT pellets per 2 rabbits. Melicious: Bowser is an older bun, right? I have a few old folks who need the extra calories too, so I won't worry too much about it unless she's still having GI upset. If you're still interested in increasing the amount of hay in her diet, I would recommend trying something other than timothy. Orchardgrass and bluegrass do seem highly preferred over timothy by my guys, and I feel that the quality of oxbow hay has gone down a bit in the last 3-4 years; it tends to be more stemmy and some boxes are very brown, neither of which is acceptable to my herd. I should also have mentioned this in my post to GoodApollo - offering multiple or different types of hay can increase hay intake, and you can also try adding some oat grass hay as a more calorie-dense hay source.
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Jul 30, 2009 16:53
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alucinor posted:Melicious: Bowser is an older bun, right? I have a few old folks who need the extra calories too, so I won't worry too much about it unless she's still having GI upset. If you're still interested in increasing the amount of hay in her diet, I would recommend trying something other than timothy. Orchardgrass and bluegrass do seem highly preferred over timothy by my guys, and I feel that the quality of oxbow hay has gone down a bit in the last 3-4 years; it tends to be more stemmy and some boxes are very brown, neither of which is acceptable to my herd. Yeah, Bowser's a senior citizen... I've tried oat grass for sure and I THINK I tried Orchardgrass, but I could be wrong. Whatever the other varieties are that I bought, she wouldn't touch. Definitely haven't tried bluegrass, though, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
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Jul 30, 2009 17:26
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Hey, I just got my female rabbit spayed and I know that if they don't start eating again after the surgery their GI tract can go into stasis and they'll die. My question is, how much eating is considered enough? Shes got plenty of pellets, parsley (which she loves) and hay. I also fed her a yogurt treat for being so good throughout the whole experience, which she ate half of. Should I keep monitoring her eating or is the fact that she ate something at all enough?
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Jul 30, 2009 21:19
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blue_kameleon posted:Hey, I just got my female rabbit spayed and I know that if they don't start eating again after the surgery their GI tract can go into stasis and they'll die. My question is, how much eating is considered enough? Shes got plenty of pellets, parsley (which she loves) and hay. I also fed her a yogurt treat for being so good throughout the whole experience, which she ate half of. Should I keep monitoring her eating or is the fact that she ate something at all enough? Keep monitoring her eating. She shouldn't be expected to eat normal amounts for at least a day or three, but needs to have continuous throughput, so to speak. If she is not eating at least a mouthful or two every hour, you need to get a syringe from your doc and syringe feed her baby food, pumpkin, or Critical Care which your vet should be able to provide. Your vet will tell you how often and how much you will need to syringe feed her. You can also try offering her plain canned pumpkin (in the baking aisle near pie crusts, be sure it only contains pumpkin, and not sugar and spices too), melon, and wheatgrass/catgrass.
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Jul 30, 2009 21:34
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Why pumpkin if you don't mind me asking? Is it good for recovery or just irresistible to rabbits? I'm able to sit here and watch her all night if that's what I need to do. My computer is right next to her pen so I'm able to keep a pretty good eye on here. Its possible that shes eating while I'm not looking, but are there other signs that shes in trouble? She's moving pretty gingerly, but what should I be on the look out for? I asked the vet but they were pretty vague and didn't seem to think there would be any problems, but I want to be on the safe side.
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Jul 30, 2009 21:49
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blue_kameleon posted:Its possible that shes eating while I'm not looking, but are there other signs that shes in trouble? She's moving pretty gingerly, but what should I be on the look out for? I asked the vet but they were pretty vague and didn't seem to think there would be any problems, but I want to be on the safe side. The only issue I had with Bowser after her spay was that she repeatedly tried to rip out her stitches. So yeah, if they gave her stitches rather than glue, make sure she's not going after them. After some very unsuccessful attempts with e-collars, we ended up having to put her in a tube sock with the foot cut off. Worked like a charm.
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Jul 30, 2009 21:56
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They gave us a cone to put on her head if she goes after them, but so far she hasn't tried at all. I hope she leaves them alone, she's going to hate us if we have to put that thing on her. I've also read that you can wrap their middles in a dishtowel and bind it together at the top so the stitches are covered, would this work? It seems like she would mind that a bit less. Shes 3, so I don't think a tube sock is going to fit around her middle. Is it common for rabbits to try and rip out their stitches? The vet I went to had done tons of successful spays but didn't give me great answers on aftercare. I still don't think shes eaten anything else, shes just sitting in the corner of her pen resting. How common is it for GI stasis to occur after spaying?
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Jul 30, 2009 22:02
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Melicious posted:we ended up having to put her in a tube sock with the foot cut off. that is the funniest thing I've ever read.
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Jul 30, 2009 22:04
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I think she might just be pissed at me. I offered her some oats, which she normally goes crazy for, she sniffed them once or twice then ignored them. What are the odds my boyfriend (who is her actual owner, and has been with her since she was a baby) would have more luck getting her to eat? Shes been home about an hour and all I've seen her eat was half a yogurt treat. Sorry for my paranoia, but I would just die if something happened to her
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Jul 30, 2009 22:18
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blue_kameleon posted:They gave us a cone to put on her head if she goes after them, but so far she hasn't tried at all. I hope she leaves them alone, she's going to hate us if we have to put that thing on her. I've also read that you can wrap their middles in a dishtowel and bind it together at the top so the stitches are covered, would this work? It seems like she would mind that a bit less. Shes 3, so I don't think a tube sock is going to fit around her middle. Is it common for rabbits to try and rip out their stitches? The vet I went to had done tons of successful spays but didn't give me great answers on aftercare. Firstly, let me say that Bowser was also a full-grown adult when she was spayed, and a big one at that. This is her:  We had a VERY stretchy tube sock, and she wasn't bothered by it at all. You could also use the thigh of some leggings. But yeah, the dishtowel idea should also work- my only concern would be it spinning around so that the bound up part would rub against her incision, irritating it. I'm not sure how common it is for rabbits to go after stitches, but they are pretty fastidious groomers and also like to chew on things, so it seems like the natural thing to do. My vet supposedly also had a lot of experience with rabbits, but pretty much shrugged his shoulders when I told him that a) She was ripping out her stitches and B) she could hardly lift her head when we put on the e-collar (the cone) C) When we made a smaller, lighter e-collar for her out of posterboard, she spent most of the time running into walls. As far as the eating, I'm afraid I don't know how much is normal, but I vaguely remember Bowser being pretty unhappy with us the first day back. luscious posted:that is the funniest thing I've ever read. Oh man, it was hillarious and adorable. I thought I took photos, but can't find them now. Of course, this was almost a decade ago, so who the hell knows...
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Jul 30, 2009 22:23
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blue_kameleon posted:Why pumpkin if you don't mind me asking? Is it good for recovery or just irresistible to rabbits? It's high in fiber, which is what they need most to keep the gut moving. It's sweet enough to be desirable while also being low in starches and sugars, both of which can disrupt the gut flora. Also try other fragrant herbs. Basil, dill, fennel. For some reason they love these especially when they aren't feeling well. Seriously, I usually buy like $30 of produce on spay day. I'd give her a few hours before I got too worried - maybe 4 hours or so. I mean she did just wake up from anesthesia, she's still a bit stoned. But after that, I wouldn't be comfortable trusting that she's eating when I wasn't looking. Put small amounts of pellets and cut up veggies in various places around the cage, and if they don't measurably disappear, get a syringe and get feedin'. Go get the syringe now, before you need it - a 10cc syringe, or if the vet is already closed, see if you can buy a 10cc dental irrigator from the nearest pharmacy, and cut the tip of the curve off so the opening is about 1/8" in diameter. You can also offer her alfalfa hay and pellets - a no-no usually, but I always say gently caress it, she doesn't feel good, if that gets her eating, fine.  The actual hand of the person feeding her shouldn't make that much difference, I wouldn't think.While stasis is the MOST common side effect of spaying, that doesn't mean it IS common. Of all the rabbits I've had spayed, which is 30+, maybe two have actually gone into stasis? Another half dozen have been bitchy about eating for a day or two but haven't actually stasised. The next major signs of discomfort are abnormal poops (too wet, too many, too few - the last is especially worrisome). Weight loss is the next, it indicates she's not eating enough, so weigh her frequently, like twice a day or more.
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Jul 30, 2009 22:27
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alucinor posted:I mean she did just wake up from anesthesia, she's still a bit stoned. Well then she should be eating everything in sight, no? :P They kept her for observation after her surgery, so I'd imagine most of the anesthesia has worn off. I have a little cup that has a mix of oats, raisins and pellets in it, and I'm watching to see if she eats any of that. She normally goes nuts for all of these, so I figure that's where she'll go if she gets hungry. Is this the kind of syringe I'd need? http://www.growforce.co.uk/product_images/1061/thumbs/1/10-cc-plastic-syringe.jpg Sorry, I don't know enough about this, apparently. To feed her, I guess we'd just lay her on her back so she'll sit still, but how do we get her mouth open? Thanks for all the help, I'm sure she'll be fine and this is all needless worry, but I'd rather get the information together now than four hours from now when she needs it badly and it might be too late. How quickly does stasis kill rabbits? Do minutes make the difference?
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Jul 30, 2009 22:39
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