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Phy posted:There's a rubber bushing on the frame stay I'm replacing on my KLR that I want to swap to the new part. What the heck do I use to destroy the glue but retain the bushing? Is it in a place where you can cut through the glue with a razor?
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Aug 3, 2009 04:46
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Not really, it's wrapped around a piece of steel tubing. I was gonna pick up some goo-gone but it said DO NOT USE ON RUBBER.
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Aug 3, 2009 05:56
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blugu64 posted:What do you think guys? i'd consider doing that on my antique bmw. go for it.
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Aug 3, 2009 06:10
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:i'd consider doing that on my antique bmw. go for it. Yeah it'll certainly be hairy at times but as long as you don't grab a lot of front brake or go too fast you should be fine.
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Aug 3, 2009 06:33
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Phy posted:Not really, it's wrapped around a piece of steel tubing. I was gonna pick up some goo-gone but it said DO NOT USE ON RUBBER. Bushings are typically pretty cheap and as long as you're in there it's not a bad idea to replace it if you can.
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Aug 3, 2009 19:58
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NoCleverName posted:Edit3* And one more question, may as well throw them all in one post. I pseudo-stripped some of the screws that cover the float valve end of the carbs. Is there any reason I can't replace them with stainless steel versions (same size screw)? The originals were some other metal, maybe brass, gold colored and they stripped like crazy. This is one of the recommended modifications to those carbs, as stripping those float bowl screws is really common. You can use SS hardware, and it helps to get it with an allen head instead of a philips head. Harder to strip them that way. I couldn't find them in any local stores when I had mine all apart, so I put that off until another day. You want M4x14 0.7 for your replacement bolts. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Aug 3, 2009 |
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Aug 3, 2009 21:23
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sirbeefalot posted:This is one of the recommended modifications to those carbs, as stripping those float bowl screws is really common. You can use SS hardware, and it helps to get it with an allen head instead of a philips head. Harder to strip them that way. I couldn't find them in any local stores when I had mine all apart, so I put that off until another day. You want M4x14 0.7 for your replacement bolts. Cool, good to know it won't kill anything having SS in there. I replaced them with M4x20 because I couldn't find the exact length match, but they fit so I assume they'll be ok? After cranking my engine for about 45 seconds today, realizing the fuel and vacuum lines weren't connected to the petcock, connecting them, and cranking for another 15 seconds or so, my bike started right up. Now I've got another question. (I probably should have started a thread, but I'm pretty close now I think) When I first started it up, the choke was all the way out and it was idling around 3k. Then after about a minute there it started revving and it got up to 6.5k before I killed the engine. I started it a few more times with the choke on and it kept getting up to between 6.5 and 7k idle. I realized the choke was out and closed it. After that it seemed to idle around 4.5k. Is this just needing to adjust the idle screw? What would have caused that initial rev from 3k to 6.5k? I find it kind of funny that the bike was idling for a while right around where my car redlines. I'm so pumped that it can finally start under its own power.
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Aug 3, 2009 22:35
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My Bike does that. I have to start with a large portion of choke and as the engine warms up it starts to rev higher so I close the choke accordingly until I am idling with a more reasonable idle and then close it completely once its fully warmed up and idling on it's own. In terms of it staying that high after the choke is closed I'd try playing with the idle screw first as maybe it was turned up way too high to compensate for something else, and now that you've fixed it you can go back to normal levels?  VVVV Read his answer, its easier to understand than mine. VVVV Minty Swagger fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Aug 4, 2009 |
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Aug 4, 2009 00:12
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NoCleverName posted:Cool, good to know it won't kill anything having SS in there. I replaced them with M4x20 because I couldn't find the exact length match, but they fit so I assume they'll be ok? That's normal behavior. Basically the choke increases the fuel flow, so once the bike warms up, it revs up. (Bike chokes are actually "enricheners"  )Anyway, once you are absolutely sure the bike is warmed up (like ride it for 5-10 minutes) and the RPMs are still high with the "enrichener off" then adjust your idle screw back down to spec (typically between 1k and 1500 RPMs). Also forget about other vehicle's redline. Every engine is different. My Valkyrie redlines at 6.5k, for example. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Aug 4, 2009 |
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Aug 4, 2009 00:16
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NoCleverName posted:Cool, good to know it won't kill anything having SS in there. I replaced them with M4x20 because I couldn't find the exact length match, but they fit so I assume they'll be ok? Just to add on to what was mentioned already, you weren't cranking it for 45 seconds straight, right? You shouldn't crank for more than about 5 seconds at a time. You probably already knew that, but its worded funny there. I'll usually have to play with the choke to keep the RPM around 4k until the temp gauge needle is well past the first mark on the gauge face, and then it will idle without it after that, sometimes with a tiny bit of throttle fiddling at lights, etc. I would ride the bike for at least 15-20 minutes to get it nice and warm before adjusting the idle screw.
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Aug 4, 2009 03:54
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Z3n posted:Clean and lube. Keep an eye on it afterwards, if it develops "red dirt", that's the internal lube leaking out and the chain is going to need to be replaced. Way late on this but does this qualify?  Are there any grades or brands of chain I should be looking at if I'm just going to be doing light touring and mild 40 HP twisty thrashing? Also, anyone who loves carburetor problems, mixed up jet settings and bieks running lean should probably check my GS Twins thread.
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Aug 4, 2009 04:12
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RichBomb posted:Way late on this but does this qualify? Can you get a pic of more of the chain? Looks like you've got kinking, the rust appears to be pretty superficial. I'd replace it. Any brand of o-ring/xo-ring chain is fine. I'm partial to RK chains because I can get them cheap.
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Aug 4, 2009 04:18
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The rest of the chain is pretty spotless, some minor surface rust. That's the worst spot, the kink has me kinda worried.
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Aug 4, 2009 04:24
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Anyone with any experience with bike covers have a recommendation? I am unfortunately lacking in garage space so my bike has to sit outside. I'm currently looking at this cover, but I am open to suggestions of known good covers. My primary concern is waterproof-ness and durability (won't melt on the exhaust, won't tear at the seams, etc...), with price in second, and storage size dead last.
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Aug 4, 2009 05:19
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I've had pretty good luck with just the cheap Wal Mart covers. They'll melt if you put them on a hot exhaust, so don't do that. Pretty sure most covers will get burnt by a real hot exhaust.
n8r fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Aug 4, 2009 |
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Aug 4, 2009 06:14
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sirbeefalot posted:Just to add on to what was mentioned already, you weren't cranking it for 45 seconds straight, right? You shouldn't crank for more than about 5 seconds at a time. You probably already knew that, but its worded funny there. Yeah, 45 seconds on and off. I was doing about 5 on 5 off.
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Aug 4, 2009 13:56
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Here's a question: How beat up should I feel after a 140 mile ride? Due to poor planning most of it was expressway riding at 70+ mph and it was windy. At the end of the day my back and right leg were killing me. I thought these KZ1000P's were supposed to be comfortable? Maybe I'm too drat tense.
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Aug 4, 2009 15:03
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Crayvex posted:Here's a question: How beat up should I feel after a 140 mile ride? Due to poor planning most of it was expressway riding at 70+ mph and it was windy. At the end of the day my back and right leg were killing me. I thought these KZ1000P's were supposed to be comfortable? Maybe I'm too drat tense. The wind can do a number on you, especially if you haven't developed the "riding muscles" yet. There's a lot of muscles that riders use that aren't really used by anything else you do, so some soreness is natural when you start doing longer rides. Are you unconciously tensing your right leg and back?
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Aug 4, 2009 17:26
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Z3n posted:The wind can do a number on you, especially if you haven't developed the "riding muscles" yet. This is pretty much it. I had awful aching back my first few weeks of riding.
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Aug 4, 2009 17:34
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Now that I think about it, I try to maximize the benefits of the fairing/windshield which leads to me slouching in the saddle. I rest my back on that helmet bag/radio box thing which is probably putting me in a very funny position. I wonder if some highway pegs on the engine guard will help? *edit* My riding muscles are all out of practice and I'm still very tense ever since the accident. I had to constantly remind myself to relax my leg muscles and stop trying to grip the tank with my knees.
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Aug 4, 2009 17:36
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I would actually try riding without the windshield for a few weeks just to get used to the wind and proper riding position.
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Aug 4, 2009 17:38
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8ender posted:I would actually try riding without the windshield for a few weeks just to get used to the wind and proper riding position. I've been riding for five years or so and I've got a 77 Honda CB750 for naked riding. This is just the first time I've logged some serious miles on the back of a bike since t-boning a F-F150 that made a left turn in front of me. I don't remember feeling this bad after a ride. Of course, maybe I'm just old. Crayvex fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Aug 4, 2009 |
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Aug 4, 2009 17:41
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Crayvex posted:Here's a question: How beat up should I feel after a 140 mile ride? It sounds like you are tensing your muscles wearing yourself out. Because really 140 miles freeway is only a couple of hours and even on a sport bike you shouldn't feel anything other than mild stiffness, on a KZ, less than that. Try coming up with a silly mental game to relax your mind and then your body should relax as well.
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Aug 4, 2009 18:11
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Crayvex posted:I've been riding for five years or so and I've got a 77 Honda CB750 for naked riding. This is just the first time I've logged some serious miles on the back of a bike since t-boning a F-F150 that made a left turn in front of me. Even though I ride longer distances more often, when I went out to my dad's place last month, I was pretty beat when I got back. 4 hours there, 4 hours back with a break in the middle of each. I don't know how Tex does it. Took the back roads, so it wasn't all freeway (maybe 20 miles on the superslab). Still felt like I got ran over by a truck. We're just getting old, dude. Time to buy trikes. 
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Aug 4, 2009 18:31
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Just wanted to chime in with a hearty thanks to everyone that recommended Avon Distanzias to me. They're loving spectacular, and now I can ride over all sorts of poo poo without the bike getting all snippy. They don't tramline anymore, manhole covers and paint (dry, at least) doesn't cause any slippage, and they have me seeking out every stretch of gravel to act like a retard on. The fact that they do all that, and have as much grip on plain old tarmac as the Metzlers I had on before, makes it kind of feel like I'm cheating. 
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Aug 4, 2009 22:40
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Simkin posted:Just wanted to chime in with a hearty thanks to everyone that recommended Avon Distanzias to me. They're loving spectacular, and now I can ride over all sorts of poo poo without the bike getting all snippy. They don't tramline anymore, manhole covers and paint (dry, at least) doesn't cause any slippage, and they have me seeking out every stretch of gravel to act like a retard on. The fact that they do all that, and have as much grip on plain old tarmac as the Metzlers I had on before, makes it kind of feel like I'm cheating. Man...I have these sitting in my living room right now and can't wait to get them on. I am going from stock dealer tires with 2000 miles on them, too!
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Aug 5, 2009 00:43
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Simkin posted:Just wanted to chime in with a hearty thanks to everyone that recommended Avon Distanzias to me. They're loving spectacular, and now I can ride over all sorts of poo poo without the bike getting all snippy. They don't tramline anymore, manhole covers and paint (dry, at least) doesn't cause any slippage, and they have me seeking out every stretch of gravel to act like a retard on. The fact that they do all that, and have as much grip on plain old tarmac as the Metzlers I had on before, makes it kind of feel like I'm cheating. Awesome. I'll definitely keep 'em in mind for when I wear down the deathwings on the Strom.
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Aug 5, 2009 01:31
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Another question for you guys: What's the correct/safest way to go about buying a used motorcycle where the previous owner still owes money on a loan? More specifically: I'm looking at buying a 2007 Ninja 250 for my first bike. I found what I believe is a pretty good deal: $2200, 4000 miles, never dropped, owned by a mechanic who did all his own work and is now moving up to something bigger. Only hiccup is, the guy still apparently owes the bank $1300 off the original purchase price. I'll post his solution to this problem, verbatim, from craigslist: I still owe on it so we would have to write up an agreement, ill get it notorized that the bike will be paid off immediately and title put into the buyers name. Sorry thats the only way i know how to sell it. Is this an acceptable solution to this problem? Anything I should watch out for or be sure to include on the note to the bank? I've spoken to him on the phone and he certainly doesn't seem like a scammer, but I'd just like to be sure he's not screwing me, even if accidentally. Thanks!
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Aug 5, 2009 01:32
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StroMotion posted:Another question for you guys: I'd go with him to the bank, pay the bank their cash to get the lein released, give him the remainder after negotiating the price, and wheelie off into the sunset.
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Aug 5, 2009 01:51
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Hmmmm, I just noticed these hanging cables on my bike. They are coming from the bottom of the carb and arent connected to anything.......ummm...this isn't normal, is it? What are they supposed to be connected to?.jpg)
Logue fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Aug 5, 2009 |
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Aug 5, 2009 02:51
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Logue posted:Hmmmm, I just noticed these hanging cables on my bike. They are coming from the bottom of the carb and arent connected to anything.......ummm...this isn't normal, is it? What are they supposed to be connected to? Looks like they're connected to the drains on the bottom of the carb and are there so that when you drain them you can route the gas away from other stuff. So in other words, they shouldn't be connected to anything else. I'm new to all of this too, so I could be way off. I've had to ask a similar question about 3 tubes I've found so far. It seems like bikes have a lot of tubes that don't connect at both ends.
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Aug 5, 2009 03:00
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NoCleverName posted:Looks like they're connected to the drains on the bottom of the carb and are there so that when you drain them you can route the gas away from other stuff. So in other words, they shouldn't be connected to anything else. I'm new to all of this too, so I could be way off. I've had to ask a similar question about 3 tubes I've found so far. It seems like bikes have a lot of tubes that don't connect at both ends. Oh, thanks! Is there anywhere I should route them? one of them is pretty long and hangs almost to the ground
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Aug 5, 2009 03:08
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I have a bit of an odd situation. I was replacing the alternator on my 1982 Honda CM250C, which was housed in the left crankcase cover. When I replaced the cover, I ended up snipping two wires accidentally. If you look at this schematic: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-cm250c-1982-left-crankcase-cover-alternator/o/m9580sch406448 It's the wires that end right next to the part lebeled "3" with the double connector. I think they go to the "pulse generator" because ever since then the bike will not start. It will turn over by not actually ignite. I tried just twisting the wires back together and that got the bike running for about 10 seconds but then it died again as the vibration unraveled the wires. This section of wiring is also extremely brittle so I decided to replace them. I then got an old wiring harness off eBay and cut off that section of wires and crimped them in place of the old wires and the bike won't start still. I'm not sure what the best way to proceed is. I don't have a soldering gun and I'm not much of an electrics guy. The battery is still fine, everything else works on the bike.
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Aug 5, 2009 03:56
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Logue posted:Oh, thanks! Is there anywhere I should route them? one of them is pretty long and hangs almost to the ground Anywhere out of the way would be good. They're just for draining the float bowls so that if you take the carbs off, you don't leak gas all over yourself. I do have a bit of my own problem though. As i've found out, the guy working on my bike, well, hasn't been doing much of anything. So if he still hasn't done anything in a week, i'm getting it back and seeing if I can handle this problem with plenty of elbow grease and cursing. But I'm not sure where the problem is. It idles, but only for a minute or so until it dies. From what I remember when I had it, if you were really gentle with the throttle it would rev up but if you were too aggressive, death. I'm almost positive it's not the carbs, I got them pretty drat clean(And yes, I cleaned them right. Wire through the hole and everything) and he has them set. It would seem it's something inside the engine then. Keep in mind it's got 32,700 miles on it. Would something like the valve clearance being off cause my problem? I'll test for an intake leak once I get it of course, just to be sure.
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Aug 5, 2009 04:22
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blugu64 posted:I'd go with him to the bank, pay the bank their cash to get the lein released, give him the remainder after negotiating the price, and wheelie off into the sunset. This is probably the best option, but I might have to do the deal over a weekend since we're both working in cities other than the location of the bike. Although it's probably better to do it that way, is the notarized dealy-o a bad idea?
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Aug 5, 2009 04:25
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:I have a bit of an odd situation. I was replacing the alternator on my 1982 Honda CM250C, which was housed in the left crankcase cover. When I replaced the cover, I ended up snipping two wires accidentally. If you look at this schematic: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-cm250c-1982-left-crankcase-cover-alternator/o/m9580sch406448 Sounds like you're not getting a good connection through the wires. Also, stupid question but: are you sure that you hooked them up right way? Also check your fuses. Chairon posted:I do have a bit of my own problem though. As i've found out, the guy working on my bike, well, hasn't been doing much of anything. So if he still hasn't done anything in a week, i'm getting it back and seeing if I can handle this problem with plenty of elbow grease and cursing. But I'm not sure where the problem is. It idles, but only for a minute or so until it dies. From what I remember when I had it, if you were really gentle with the throttle it would rev up but if you were too aggressive, death. It still sounds like your carbs, and it sounds like you're running massively lean. Does it respond cleanly if you have the choke engaging a little bit? Intake leak could be the cause as well. Step one, as always, is to take everything back to stock. Once you've established that there's no air leaks, that is.
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Aug 5, 2009 05:29
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I've only used the choke to start it, I didn't think to test how it runs without it. I'll give that a shot if he doesn't get it running. What else could be wrong with the carbs, though? My first guess would be the o-rings, I don't think I was wearing my glasses last time I cleaned them. I'm not completely blind without them, everythings just slightly fuzzy. Sorta like going from a Standard TV to HDTV. The diaphragms were also really nice, there weren't any cracks or anything. Other then that i'm stumped.
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Aug 5, 2009 05:52
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RichBomb posted:Way late on this but does this qualify? I need to see nothing else. That chain is toast. Replace it or risk getting bitchwhipped by 5lbs of flying steel. I really don't like the gstwins site. I've tried to eek useful information from them. There's precious little. The advice doled out there is often pretty bad. Often VERY bad. If you need an example, the person who said "three grooves" was talking out their rear end. There's 5. There will also be restrictor bushings in the air jet passages on the front of the carb. If you need another example, they recomend replacing the screws that hold your carb covers on with 10/32 screws. The bike is metric. You need M4 screws (IIRC, I'd need to check, but it's metric... and metric is hard to screw up size wise) to hold those on. by using an english thread you're putting all the stress on one thread, and sets you up to strip out the carburator body. Carb bodies are $200-300. the proper screws are $0.15. Yet they argued at length that the english threads were "ok". https://www.thegsresources.com is much better. Just don't admit your bike is made after 1986. If the bike is stock. I'd recommend using stock carburation settings. If you do anything, open the pilot screws a little. Spend $4 on a can of carb cleaner. And properly clean the jets. Why did you unhook your vacuum petcock? That's a very useful feature on the bike. You'll regret not setting that later... The slow return to idle can be easily diagnosed. Spray that carb cleaner behind the carbs while the bike is idling. If the rpms don't change, your intake is properly sealed, and you need to clean your carbs. Did you clean your pilot screws? (not just the jets..)
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Aug 5, 2009 06:11
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Nerobro posted:https://www.thegsresources.com is much better. Just don't admit your bike is made after 1986. Yes this is a fantastic site. I learned how to test the stator on my Kawasaki there.
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Aug 5, 2009 06:29
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StroMotion posted:This is probably the best option, but I might have to do the deal over a weekend since we're both working in cities other than the location of the bike. Although it's probably better to do it that way, is the notarized dealy-o a bad idea? If you don't deal with the bank then you'll have to pay the seller and trust that he will pay the bank and then sign over the title. If he fails to do either, you'll have to take him to court whether he signs a contract or not. Save yourself assloads of potential hassle and go to the bank. Most banks have branches open during the weekend or otherwise just make time during the week. Unless you trust random strangers with your money.
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Aug 5, 2009 06:58
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