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Pvt. Public posted:What's a good price on an 02 Shadow Deluxe? I'm looking at this one: My girl rides the 2000 model. It's an all around solid bike but it kind of blows on the expressway. 4 gears and 600cc means going from 60-80mph takes some time, which can really limit your ability to work around inattentive drivers and semi's. If you're not going to be doing a lot of expressway riding it's a fantastic bike though.
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# ? May 18, 2024 18:44 |
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Yeah I hate the interstates in cars enough to barely use them. I vastly prefer two lane roads unless I'm forced onto interstates for time considerations. I'll have to look into it. Thanks.
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Any opinions on Honda CT110s? They seem to be very ubiquitous here in Australia, and I'm looking for a cheap beater bike >250ccs that will be used mainly for city duty, bonus points for being dead easy to work on, seems to be just the ticket.
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Bobby_Wokkerfella posted:Any opinions on Honda CT110s? Postie bike? For some wierd reason, Honda sent CT's to Oz without the dualrange transmission. That item really transforms t he CT from a big wheeled step through to a full on trail machine. Put the bike in 1st/low and go almost anywhere you can walk, if it gets hung up it's light enough to push. Some of your countrymen put bigger gas tanks in the step through and tour on them. My first bike was a CT90. I'm keeping my eyes open for another one if I can score one cheap.
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There's an 82 Maxim 400 for sale locally, 15k miles. Would I be better served getting it or an 02 Shadow 600 Deluxe as a first bike? I'm mainly looking for reliability and simple/cheap maintenance. The most this bike will see is a 55 mph two-lane highway, and that won't be till next season probably. Mostly used for 45 mph and under 3-mile commute to work. The Maxim is listed at 1,000 and the Shadow is 2,900. I can afford either, so price isn't a concern.
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Shadow, solely on the basis that I ain't heard great things about early 80's Yamaha UJMs here in terms of reliability, whereas the Shadow's a postmillennial Honda. It won't be fast, but it's another one of those bikes that seems to have been around for ages.
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I would also say Shadow. There are gobzillions of them around, parts are cheap, there are tons of accessories, people that have them seem to love them.
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'85 GPZ 750R with 52,000kms for $NZ 3,000![]() http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Tourers/auction-226766318.htm the only problem(s) are:
But drat, this is the best deal on a bike I've seen for ages. Should I do it anyway?
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Pvt. Public posted:There's an 82 Maxim 400 for sale locally, 15k miles. Would I be better served getting it or an 02 Shadow 600 Deluxe as a first bike? I'm mainly looking for reliability and simple/cheap maintenance. Go with the VLX absolutely. While the 80's bikes have their advantages over a lot of the newer lines... reliability and cheap to find parts are not among them. I just popped $50 on my 83 shadow for that stupid pin that goes in the carb for choke. It's like a 20 cent part to manufacture... but I couldn't find anything on ebay and wanted to ride asap so I had to deal with dealer prices.
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Halo_4am posted:Go with the VLX absolutely. While the 80's bikes have their advantages over a lot of the newer lines... reliability and cheap to find parts are not among them. I just popped $50 on my 83 shadow for that stupid pin that goes in the carb for choke. It's like a 20 cent part to manufacture... but I couldn't find anything on ebay and wanted to ride asap so I had to deal with dealer prices. Sold. I'm buying the Shadow. Thanks guys.
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Tsaven Nava posted:gently caress. Now I want a Supermotard. Dammit, at some point I have to make up my mind on what sort of bike my next ride will be. I got experience on different bikes by hanging out with the midwest GS people. You should too.
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Becktastic posted:I'm a 5'5 girl looking for a good adventure bike. I've been riding a 125cc scooter for about a year and I'd like something more powerful and off road capable. Buying a new dual sport really is silly because most of them are rarely updated and can be found in the used markets quite easily. At your height, given your riding experience, I think it'd be a mistake to buy a full size dirtbike. If you do buy a fullsize bike, you're going to want to look into you options with regard to lowering it. Generally with a dirtbike you can get longer dogbones for the rear shock, and you can shave the the seat quite a bit. You want to be looking for the smaller displacement dualsports - they are as follows: Honda XR / Yamaha XT / Suzuki DR / Kawasaki KLX/KLR (I think). I'm not aware of any significant reliability issues with any of the aircooled japanese dualsports. Personally, I would be shooting for Hondas / Yamahas if I had a choice. With dirtbikes, unfortunately you are either looking at reliable/heavy/slow or light/fast/high maintenance (not necessarily unreliable). Then you mix in wanting to ride it on the street and you add a bunch of weight, and generally worse tires. Do you have specific areas in mind that you want to ride? Do you want to do highway riding? Do you want to have a bike you could really have fun with offroad - i.e. jump it? You also need to be aware that offroad riding generally requires a fair amount of addition gear in the way of boots, helmet, armor, and braces.
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n8r posted:Buying a new dual sport really is silly because most of them are rarely updated and can be found in the used markets quite easily. At your height, given your riding experience, I think it'd be a mistake to buy a full size dirtbike. If you do buy a fullsize bike, you're going to want to look into you options with regard to lowering it. Generally with a dirtbike you can get longer dogbones for the rear shock, and you can shave the the seat quite a bit. You want to be looking for the smaller displacement dualsports - they are as follows: Really good advice. Also, if the bike does not have a SKIDPLATE, do not offroad it till you get one.
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VTNewb posted:Really good advice. Also, if the bike does not have a SKIDPLATE, do not offroad it till you get one. I swear I post the same thing everytime someone is looking at a dirtbike/DS.
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Spartak posted:'85 GPZ 750R with 52,000kms for $NZ 3,000 I don't think so. A 85 'GPZ 750R with 52,000km will probably be pretty near at least an engine rebuilding. If you depend on your bike and already have to ask your bank for money to buy it, don't.
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Blaster of Justice posted:I don't think so. A 85 'GPZ 750R with 52,000km will probably be pretty near at least an engine rebuilding. If you depend on your bike and already have to ask your bank for money to buy it, don't. Why would a bike with only 32k on it need rebuilding?
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Z3n posted:Why would a bike with only 32k on it need rebuilding? Because bike engines explode after 20,000 miles. So anything after 30,000 miles means it's probably going to turn to dust. Right?
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I don't think mileage is an issue, from what I can gather most Japanese bikes can go for 100,000kms (or more) before needing serious work.
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Z3n posted:Why would a bike with only 32k on it need rebuilding? Maybe he meant a valve adjustment. That's the same thing, right guys?
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Trintintin posted:Because bike engines explode after 20,000 miles. So anything after 30,000 miles means it's probably going to turn to dust. Right? Well, my first SV only made it 140,000
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Z3n posted:Why would a bike with only 32k on it need rebuilding? Did you miss that it's a GPZ R ?
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Blaster of Justice posted:Did you miss that it's a GPZ R ? No. Why would it need rebuilding? The R follows just about every bike out there with performance in mind, and they don't need rebuilding until at least 100k, as long as they're well maintained. Poorly maintained they'll still do an easy 50k.
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Z3n posted:No. Why would it need rebuilding? The R follows just about every bike out there with performance in mind, and they don't need rebuilding until at least 100k, as long as they're well maintained. Poorly maintained they'll still do an easy 50k. I know what the R stands for ![]() No I don't think most MC engines will magically explode at the 30K mark, but a few are likely to have severe problems: 80s GPZs, Benelli 750s, Laverda 750s, Yamaha TR1s to name a few. I guess your advise is to buy, even if the guy can't really afford the purchase, my advise stays the same: don't. 80's GPZs are great bikes but the engine is highly maintenance intensive.
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Blaster of Justice posted:I know what the R stands for My friend has an 80s GPZ that he's owned since new and it's got 70k on it with no problems? He rebuilt the engine recently, but that's because he's an obsessive tinkerer and wanted to bore out blah blah blah. What "serious issues" are you talking about? Top end failure? Cranks? Also, couldn't that problem have more to do with your friends and less to do with the bike? Hell, if you looked at me you'd say that ZX6E engines aren't reliable, I fragged a couple of them in around 60k of riding, one of them around 10k after install, but that was because I was an idiot, not because of a problem with the bike itself. The engines with good care easily make it 100k. I know there's unreliable bikes out there, or bikes that are tightly strung enough to need constant checking and maintenence, but I have a hard time believing that an 80s GPZ 750 needs rebuilding at 30k "just because". It's still not a good deal on the bike, I do agree with you there. I'm just curious as to if there was a consistant set of failures that you saw, or if parts just randomly started failing at 30k. Enthusiests also tend to be far more abusive to their bikes than 95% of the riders out there. My friend pops E motors regularly, but he's tossing together junkyard rebuilds and he rides at redline all day long. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Aug 6, 2009 |
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VTNewb posted:Really good advice. Also, if the bike does not have a SKIDPLATE, do not offroad it till you get one. One dime-sized hole in my crankcase cover later, and I can fully agree with this statement. (Although I'm that guy who still hasn't learned that a '97 Virago 750 isn't an off-road bike)
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Z3n posted:What "serious issues" are you talking about? Top end failure? Cranks? Also, couldn't that problem have more to do with your friends and less to do with the bike? Typically crankshaft bearings and gearboxes because roughly manufactured metal tend to fill your oil with splints. 80's Kawasakis had awful machining tolerances and the GPZs were about the worst. The bearings used both internally and externally on that bike are goddamn lovely too. Kawasaki was truly the bottom end of the Great Japanese Four during the 80's due to lovely QA and bad choices regarding licensed part manufactures. Worn out suspension will be an issue too at +30K. Buying this bike, when you can hardly afford it in the first place, will be a bad idea if you plan to ride within the next couple of seasons. You should be able to find a good CBR900 for the price asked.
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Blaster of Justice posted:Typically crankshaft bearings and gearboxes because roughly manufactured metal tend to fill your oil with splints. 80's Kawasakis had awful machining tolerances and the GPZs were about the worst. The bearings used both internally and externally on that bike are goddamn lovely too. Fair enough. I've never heard of any of those issues with the GPZ line before, although admittedly most 80s bikes are out of my range of experience. Worn out suspension is gonna be an issue on most bikes at 10k, much less 30k. OEM suspension stuff on older bikes, for the most part, sucks. I do agree with it being a bad purchase though. Not sure about the NZ market though.
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With regard to the NZ market, if it has all the paperwork in order (you have to pay a yearly license fee, and have a 'warrant of fitness' vehicle check every 6 months) and it is in decent conditions and runs well you are looking at $NZ 2k at the minimum. So $3k for the GPZ is pretty good in my opinion. My CB250N cost me $2k, and I thought that was an ok deal. Everything I've read about the 80s GPZs suggests they are pretty solidly built, and if it does go to poo poo there's a garage that specialises in old Kawasakis nearby. But I don't know, I'll sleep on it for a couple of days and then see.
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I'm going to go to look at that Shadow tomorrow, but this 01 GZ250 popped up on CL today. Anything known to be an issue on this bike? That price looks pretty awesome to me.
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So I looked at the Shadow, and then went and looked at the GZ250. I like both equally well, but the Shadow definitely has more go. But, the guy with the GZ said he'd take $1750, plus the GZ is immaculate. And green, and I like green. Plus it has bags, a windshield, engine protection bars, a new battery, and fresh oil and filter. None of which the Shadow has. Is there any reason not to get the GZ and save myself $1200?
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Pvt. Public posted:Is there any reason not to get the GZ and save myself $1200? I really don't understand your choice of mopeds in the first place, but no - get the GZ and save the $1200 towards a real bike ![]()
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Get the GZ. I liked the GZ much more than the other "cruiser" type bikes I rode at the MSF.
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Thanks guys. After thinking it over, I had already decided on the GZ anyways, but now I feel 100% certain on the purchase.
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I am looking at ninja 250's as my first biek. I saw this gem on craigslist "Selling my 1992 Ninja 250, had been sitting in a garage and some lumber fell on the gas tank..." It looks a little beat up and it needs some love on the engine, which I am comfortable working on it, should I offer $800 ? http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/mcy/1314658246.html
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Lumber on the gas tank is probably the most original excuse for "I crashed it" I've heard this year.
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Whats everyone's opinion on the Kawasaki Versys, keeping in mind that I am 6'-3"? I think my dealer is trying to get rid of a ton of them, and has the price down to what a decent used SV650 would be around my area.
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Uncle Ivan posted:What would be a decent price on a 98-02 BMW K1200RS with luggage, 25-40k miles? KBB lists a trade-in value of $4690, so I was thinking like maybe $5200 without anything? +$300 ish for luggage? Any thoughts? Just because they're such awesome bikes it's a bit rare for me to find them much under 6000-5500. The RS is cheaper than the GT that came out in 02 or 03. I have seen stuff that's pre 2000 going for at least 800 cheaper than the stuff that was 2000 or newer.
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Cheesemaster200 posted:Whats everyone's opinion on the Kawasaki Versys, keeping in mind that I am 6'-3"? It might be a bit on the small side for you. The few folks who seem to own them locally love them to pieces. They do have some off-pavement ability ![]() the guy sucking hind tit is a Versys rider. He wheeled it pretty well out there on the Klondike Loop by Dawson City.
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Gnomad posted:The few folks who seem to own them locally love them to pieces. They do have some off-pavement ability I ain't ridden one, but from a design perspective I'd hesitate to ride it too hard offroad. The mechanical bits are just too exposed, especially that bottom-exit muffler. I'm talking like in rocks and heavy gravel, roads like gnomad is showing should be fine. Otherwise the stance is right, if the ergos are laid out the same way as the Vstrom it should be pretty roomy even for a tall guy. As do-it-all roadbikes they are apparently fantastic. Basically the same place the V-Strom 650 finds itself, albeit with a newer motor and a mushroom for a headlight.
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# ? May 18, 2024 18:44 |
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http://annarbor.craigslist.org/mcy/1316476118.html The price is right, KBB is $1200, maybe room to talk him down more? Is it even worth it for a 250 this old? EDIT: got a response to my questions to him. Clean title, 2nd (maybe 3rd, he isn't sure) owner, dropped once while not moving and has some scratches and the cover is broken off of the front left blinker, but light unit is intact. Tires about 70%. Also asked him if he stunted due to the sticker, but no stunting according to him. Stoic Commie fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Aug 12, 2009 |
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