|
It works, it works! I'm so happy. Got everything back together and it fired right up. Already sounds like its running better, no gas leaks yet but I only had it on for 2 - 3 min. Time for a test ride around the hood.
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2009 22:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:58 |
|
|
edit: LESS CHATTING MORE QUESTIONS
the letter b fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Aug 16, 2009 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 04:44
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:That's not how diesels work. They don't have a throttle. They inject the same fuel no matter how much air goes in. The more air you put in the BETTER the fuel you inject burns. Also the higher the effective compression ratio, so the better the thermal efficiency. There's not reason to ever have a diesel without a turbo.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 06:54
|
|
|
I recently did an oil change on my bike and put in some super fancy race 10w40 in my bike. Tocico is the brand I believe? After I did this, it seems my bike is running a bit hotter than with the normal Rotella I use. Is there a difference between oils even with the same viscosity rating or am I just imagining things?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 07:21
|
|
|
Is it ok to use any type of antifreeze in a motorcycle? My service manual for my 08 ninja 250r says that it needs ethylene glycol for aluminum engines. I picked some up at walmart, but it only mentions cars and light trucks on the label, so I figured I'd ask before pouring it in. Thanks again, guys.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 09:52
|
|
|
Orange Someone posted:My friend's 1993 Honda CB400 Super Four had a problem with the old battery not charging. I reckoned it was either because of a dodgy battery, not being giving enough time to charge (he liked starting it up in the garage since he cannae ride it atm) or the charging system being faulty. It's probably the voltage regulator.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 10:31
|
|
|
Orange Someone posted:My friend's 1993 Honda CB400 Super Four had a problem with the old battery not charging. I reckoned it was either because of a dodgy battery, not being giving enough time to charge (he liked starting it up in the garage since he cannae ride it atm) or the charging system being faulty. The r/r is probably hosed, check the stator output and resistance, and do a diode test on the r/r. Its unlikely to be the stator so your best bet is to ring round bike breakers or trawl ebay for a new r/r. Pretty much any honda (or suzuki or yamaha) r/r that has 5 wires will do, the only difference will be the connector blocks and the mounting holes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 12:20
|
|
|
Entreri posted:Is it ok to use any type of antifreeze in a motorcycle? My service manual for my 08 ninja 250r says that it needs ethylene glycol for aluminum engines. I picked some up at walmart, but it only mentions cars and light trucks on the label, so I figured I'd ask before pouring it in. Thanks again, guys. ninja250.org says it doesn't matter what it's for.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 15:34
|
|
|
shaitan posted:ninja250.org says it doesn't matter what it's for. Just make sure whatever you use is compatible with whats already in there. If in doubt flush out all the old stuff and in with the new. I can't imagine a coolant flush is that much work on a ex250.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 16:23
|
|
|
What can I do about a leaky gas cap? I'm trying to use one of those commercial rust cleaning-and-sealing products, but when I started to rinse the tank out, I noticed liquid leaking out the edges of the gas cap at a scary pace. Should I just replace it?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 21:34
|
|
|
AncientTV posted:What can I do about a leaky gas cap? I'm trying to use one of those commercial rust cleaning-and-sealing products, but when I started to rinse the tank out, I noticed liquid leaking out the edges of the gas cap at a scary pace. Should I just replace it? It's proll'y not expensive to replace. If you prefer to repair, there's a good chance the problem is the ubber o-ring around the threaded part of the cap (or lack thereof). Shouldn't be a hard item to find at a hardware store.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2009 22:37
|
|
|
Anyone know somewhere in Washington I can rent a motorcycle that isn't a cruiser or tourer? The sportiest bikes I've seen for rent are FJRs and Triumph Trophys.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 00:03
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:It's proll'y not expensive to replace. If you prefer to repair, there's a good chance the problem is the ubber o-ring around the threaded part of the cap (or lack thereof). Shouldn't be a hard item to find at a hardware store. Yeah, I actually have another gascap on the way that someone threw in with the ignition I needed. I tried some sealer on the rubber ring, but I think the cap may be bent a bit; the PO didn't have all the bolts screwed into the outer ring. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 01:46
|
|
|
So turns out in my continued research on Arizona (where I'm moving) they have required emissions on anything with an engine bigger than 90cc. Now I'm wondering if I need that charcoal-whatsit on the CA version of my bike, or if that catalytic converter will be enough. It's a 2008 r6 with 6k miles on it and stock everything (including exhaust). I figure I'll be fine, but it'll be my only method of transportation and I know bikes can be notorious their fumes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 02:33
|
|
|
Taisa posted:So turns out in my continued research on Arizona (where I'm moving) they have required emissions on anything with an engine bigger than 90cc. Now I'm wondering if I need that charcoal-whatsit on the CA version of my bike, or if that catalytic converter will be enough. It's a 2008 r6 with 6k miles on it and stock everything (including exhaust). I figure I'll be fine, but it'll be my only method of transportation and I know bikes can be notorious their fumes. Do they smog? Do they even check anything?
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 02:39
|
|
|
My guess is it's the same as cars, though based on the ambiguity of the best website I could find I really have no idea. I know CA has different setups for bikes (like the charcoal-whatsit) and I'm wondering if that really makes or breaks the emissions test.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 09:48
|
|
|
Taisa posted:My guess is it's the same as cars, though based on the ambiguity of the best website I could find I really have no idea. I know CA has different setups for bikes (like the charcoal-whatsit) and I'm wondering if that really makes or breaks the emissions test. You shouldn't need to be too concerned about it. Usually, all the Charcoal Cannister does is take fumes from the gas tank and dump them into the charcoal, rather than letting them evaporate. Sometimes it'll be a part of a recirculation system. However, just to be sure, I'd call the AZ DMV and ask them what sort of smog testing they do for motorcycles. quote:Call Us Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Aug 17, 2009 |
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 15:26
|
|
|
King no one posted:That may be how older mechanical pumps worked but from what I've read it is not the case anymore. Electronics measure and inject the appropriate amount of fuel to maximize efficiency and reduce emissions. The physics of a diesel hasn't changed. Electonics just stop you from making a bunch of smoke. With mechanical fuel pumps on diesels it was possable to over fuel the engine, and therefore make black smoke. Electronics can also stop the diesel tick at idle. Turbos are still a universally good thing on diesels.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2009 15:28
|
|
|
spandexcajun posted:It works, it works! I'm so happy. Got everything back together and it fired right up. Already sounds like its running better, no gas leaks yet but I only had it on for 2 - 3 min. Time for a test ride around the hood. Good news: The bike starts right up and warms up faster, I can take the choke off after just a few min instead of 5 or 6. No more popping when I let off the throttle at all. Not a drop of gas leaking from anywhere. Generally the bike is running way better then it was. Bad news: After the bike is warmed up when I let off the throttle the engine speed reduces slow and then stops around 4 - 5k RPMs, then if it sits for a minute or so it will slowly drop to the right idle. Some times it stays at the right idle, sometimes it wants to die. If I blip the throttle the engine does not want to slow down, stays running @ 5k RPMs. This behavior gets worse as the bike warms up, more so after riding around for 15 minutes or so. I did not mess with the idle screws when I cleaned things, just the pilot screws (they were set to 2.75 turns out, I put them@ 3) but I have messed with the fast idle screw since then to no avail. I don't think I have any air leaks I will double check. The obvious thing to do is set the pilot screw back 1/4 turn each, what else can I try? Some guides on Ninja250 suggest that out of wack valves or un-synced carbs could be the culprit, but it was idling perfect before (well, before it started pissing gas and stalling everywhere) Where do I go next?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2009 01:32
|
|
|
Check the sync.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2009 16:47
|
|
|
It's either sync (unlikely as the idle does eventually comedown) or a vacuum leak.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2009 19:25
|
|
|
Vacuum leak is plausible but check that mechanical parts are moving as they should too. Does your cable release? Is it oiled?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2009 19:51
|
|
|
Remember awhile back I asked what windshield this was?  Well I think I found it. Or one that's close enough. I think it's the F16 (tour?) windshield from National Cycle. Anyone have any experience with it? Looks pretty rad and I think I might buy one for the GS400. http://www.nationalcycle.com/catalogue/FSeries.shtml Edit: Looks like it's not universal, but the one on the honda featured above is. hmm. MrZig fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Aug 19, 2009 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 04:23
|
|
|
MrZig posted:Edit: Looks like it's not universal, but the one on the honda featured above is. hmm. I've been looking at the same windshield for my KZ but I'm not sure how it'll look on such an old bike. The universal fitment thing is odd because in the Motovan catalog they list one part number for pretty much every bike. Motovan: http://www.motovan.com/common/cat/2009moto_EN/html/2009moto_EN.html
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 06:32
|
|
|
 ok so apparently my bike likes to eat headlight bulbs. I put in a new bulb that was a stock voltage and it burned out in under a 30 minute ride on both filaments, so something is up. What would be the possible culprits? frayed wire? a short? The only things I have done recently were install an aftermarket exhaust and paint the drat thing. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 07:04
|
|
|
spandexcajun posted:Bad news: After the bike is warmed up when I let off the throttle the engine speed reduces slow and then stops around 4 - 5k RPMs, then if it sits for a minute or so it will slowly drop to the right idle. Some times it stays at the right idle, sometimes it wants to die. If I blip the throttle the engine does not want to slow down, stays running @ 5k RPMs. This behavior gets worse as the bike warms up, more so after riding around for 15 minutes or so. Oh, and I had a bike with this issue after I cleaned the carbs the other day and it turned out the grip wasn't letting the throttle snap shut all the way right away. It'd eventually idle normally, it just took a while after each throttle opening. Something to look into!
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 07:45
|
|
|
MrZig posted:Remember awhile back I asked what windshield this was? I also found this installation PDF last night: http://www.nationalcycle.com/ispl/10-119002-000.pdf Looks pretty universal to me. Or at least I think I could easily modify it to fit if needed.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 15:39
|
|
|
BotchedLobotomy posted:
Get a multimeter and see if your bike is starting to put out higher than average voltage.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 17:09
|
|
|
^^^^ Good idea as well, but... BotchedLobotomy posted:
Yes and yes. Check your earths are good too. You need to trace the wiring back through the loom from the headlight to find the culprit. Look for damaged insulation.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 17:11
|
|
|
Slim Pickens posted:Anyone know somewhere in Washington I can rent a motorcycle that isn't a cruiser or tourer? The sportiest bikes I've seen for rent are FJRs and Triumph Trophys. BMW dealers do this sort of thing fairly commonly, or at least used to. Info on the BMW USA website obviously.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 17:16
|
|
|
Saga&dietcokefiend posted:Good ideas Thanks guys. I'm already hitting up friends I know in the area to see if I can bum a multimeter off them and look into what exactly is going on. In the meantime I'll take apart the headlight and follow the lines to see if anything looks nasty.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 17:36
|
|
|
After my carb swap to the FCR, my DRZ takes a bit to get started. It almost always needs to have the choke on (unless its fully warm and has been ridden in the last hour or so) and when cold, it always take a lot of holding the starter before it turns on (say 5 seconds where before the swap took <1). Is this normal? It rides fine once it's on.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 18:25
|
|
|
cmorrow001 posted:After my carb swap to the FCR, my DRZ takes a bit to get started. It almost always needs to have the choke on (unless its fully warm and has been ridden in the last hour or so) and when cold, it always take a lot of holding the starter before it turns on (say 5 seconds where before the swap took <1). If you blip the throttle does the engine quickly back down to a steady idle? I.E. Doesn't hang at higher rpms for a second then drop down, or drop down quick to a low idle then smooth out. If it does one or the other you need to adjust your idle air mixture (which way depends on what it's doing).
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 19:04
|
|
|
BotchedLobotomy posted:Thanks guys. I'm already hitting up friends I know in the area to see if I can bum a multimeter off them and look into what exactly is going on. In the meantime I'll take apart the headlight and follow the lines to see if anything looks nasty. Multimeters are like $10 and are very handy. Just go buy one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2009 19:13
|
|
|
I've been recently having some issues with my 07 Suzuki GS500. I've fixed the clutch troubles I was having, and now I'm totally hung up on why the choke isn't working. When I first bought the bike and rode it, when I would choke it to start it the bike would hang out at a fairly high RPM, and then when I turned it off it would sit and idle. Now, when I try to start it with the choke it doesn't even start, and if I start it without the choke it will sit and idle, but die if I don't give it gas. Once the engine is running for a while and is able to idle by itself, if I turn on the choke the RPMs actually drop, the engine sputters, and often time the bike dies. Effectively, I can't start my bike when it's cold out because the choke doesn't work, and the choke seems like it's the problem because of trying it out when the bike isn't cold and runs fine. A: Does anyone have any idea what's going on? B: Does this issue warrant its own thread?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2009 01:24
|
|
|
How do you guys power stuff like gps on your bikes? Do you guys use cigarette adaptors?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2009 01:50
|
|
|
lostleaf posted:How do you guys power stuff like gps on your bikes? Do you guys use cigarette adaptors? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3187825 If you can use usb to power it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2009 03:38
|
|
|
lostleaf posted:How do you guys power stuff like gps on your bikes? Do you guys use cigarette adaptors? My GPS came with a fused power lead that I just ran under the tank and hooked up to the battery.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2009 03:41
|
|
|
obso posted:http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3187825 Thanks! Didn't know these things were around. Found a nice dc to usb adaptor on amazon for 15 bucks. Now I just have to avoid electrocuting myself.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2009 04:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 21:58 |
|
|
Gstu posted:I've been recently having some issues with my 07 Suzuki GS500. I've fixed the clutch troubles I was having, and now I'm totally hung up on why the choke isn't working. When I first bought the bike and rode it, when I would choke it to start it the bike would hang out at a fairly high RPM, and then when I turned it off it would sit and idle. Are you just opening the choke completely and treating it like an on/off switch? Because it's not. Sometimes you need a little choke, when it's warmer out, and if it's really hot (110+ with your bike in the sun), you may not need any choke at all. It sounds like you're either overdoing it or underdoing it with the choke. Most chokes do nothing/very little for the first 60% of their travel, in the next 30% they do everything, and from 90%-100% of engaged they're just full open. Play with it a little. It's not a switch, it's an adjustment...like your throttle.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2009 05:54
|
|