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lostleaf posted:How do you guys power stuff like gps on your bikes? Do you guys use cigarette adaptors? http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2186/621/
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Aug 20, 2009 14:06
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MrZig posted:Remember awhile back I asked what windshield this was? Just an update to this MrZig. I ordered one yesterday and it should be in next week. I'll post pictures of the mounting when I get it. I ordered the short dark tinted one.
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Aug 20, 2009 15:47
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Aug 20, 2009 20:20
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chryst posted:I made myself one of these from some old car audio gear I had lying around, and wired the switch side of the relay into the headlight circuit. That's a great idea wiring it into the headlight circuit. Gonna have to steal this.
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Aug 20, 2009 20:41
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2005 Honda Rebel 250 What does it mean if the following things are true: 1. Bike cranks slowly and does not start. -- I'm assuming the battery is toast (previous owner did had not ridden it in awhile). Easy fix. 2. When bike is started, it only idles with the choke all the way open. Even after warming it up for 5 minutes, it still dies at about 50% choke. -- Gunky carb, right? Need to strip it down and give it a good cleaning.
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Aug 21, 2009 14:28
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Un-l337-Pork posted:2005 Honda Rebel 250 1. Yes, probably. 2. Could be that, sure. Before that, though, check to make sure your idle isn't set too low. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Aug 21, 2009 |
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Aug 21, 2009 15:08
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also a low battery can cause funny idling. wait till it's charged before you declare the carbs screwed.
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Aug 21, 2009 15:22
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Nerobro posted:also a low battery can cause funny idling. wait till it's charged before you declare the carbs screwed. can it? weak spark does that?
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Aug 21, 2009 18:13
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:can it? weak spark does that? Well if it was weak enough to cause some misfiring then it'll idle very strangely.
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Aug 21, 2009 18:32
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8ender posted:Well if it was weak enough to cause some misfiring then it'll idle very strangely. The choke would also "artificially" raise the idle, which could cause it to pass the "running on battery -> running on alternator" threshold.
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Aug 21, 2009 20:43
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Krakkles posted:The choke would also "artificially" raise the idle, which could cause it to pass the "running on battery -> running on alternator" threshold. What does that mean, exactly? I thought that once the engine was running, the alternator supplied all of the electrical power. EDIT: Ok, did a little research -- so the power output of the alternator is dependent, to a degree, upon engine speed? So, basically, because the choke allows more fuel (right?) into the engine, it would normally increase the idle speed above a "non-choke" idle. However, if there are some electrical shenanigans going on, the alternator is supplying just enough juice to idle the engine with the choke on, but not enough to idle without the choke?
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Aug 21, 2009 21:11
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Un-l337-Pork posted:What does that mean, exactly? I thought that once the engine was running, the alternator supplied all of the electrical power. The bike isn't creating enough power to run itself until the engine is spinning above a certain threshold. Below that, you're still running off of the battery's stored power. If your battery is shot, it would idle with choke because that raises the RPM to a point where the engine can sustain itself. Once you remove the choke, it drops back to where it needs battery power, and there is none/very little, so it craps out. Its not the same as a car, where the alternator can supply enough to keep the engine going at any speed.
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Aug 21, 2009 21:34
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I have a retarded impossible question but here goes... there is a wire protruding from the bundle of wires under my seat next to the battery. Obviously at some point this wire was connected to the battery. It isn't marked as a ground. Everything works and I can't find the other end. It kind of bugs me but I see no harm in ignoring it. Any suggestions for finding the other end short of disassembling the bike and electrical system?
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Aug 21, 2009 21:42
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Thanks for all the suggestions about my bike. I tried to make a homemade carb sync tool, the tool came together alright but trying to use it sucked. I don't think my carbs are any better or worse since I tried tweaking them. However I did find one of the screw tightened collars that goes from one of the carbs to the intake on the engine was binding on the throttle cable a little. I was pretty happy as I was sure this was the cause of the erratic idle issues I was having. Fixed this and the bike seemed to run like a champ, idle was great, smooth acceleration, rode around the block for 10 15 min no problems. But (of course) then I decided to ride to meet my family at a restaurant for dinner, bike was fine for a while then the drat idle high and drop after a few - same as before. Argh! Bike runs great, I mess with the fast idle screw, the RPMs drop, then it reves and drops like normal. Except it won't idle, just dies. So I raise the idle with the fast idle screw again and get it idling around 1500 RPMs nice and smooth but after riding a while the drat idle wont drop below 4500 RPM. Now I know for sure the throttle cable is lubed and moves freely, I'm pretty stumped now. I have decided I would rather ride a motorcycle then work on one all the time, this bike is now back on cragslist for $1200 and I am looking at a sv650s 2003 next week. Sucks, I relly liked this bike but I want something a little more reliable / carefree. I'm still open to suggestions in anyone has any ideas. Also if any goon wants it $800 and it's yours (if this part it inappropriate let me know and I'll remove it). Hope to join the sv650 crew soon.
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Aug 21, 2009 23:29
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Work is proceeding on my recently acquired first bike, a 1982 GS750t. As far as I can tell, the GS750t was only made in 82 and 83, and it has unique side panels, a different tank, and maybe some other stuff. My seat is completely useless, the foam is shot and the metal part is rusted to pieces. The seller threw in a seat from a different bike that's in pretty good shape, but it doesn't fit. So far I've found a NOS seat on eBay for 300+, and a used one in good shape on Craigslist 1000+ miles away. I emailed the seller to ask about shipping, but have yet to hear back. Do I have to get a seat from another 82-83 gs750t or would a seat from a different model fit? I want to get this thing rideable as quickly and cheaply as possible. I found a few interesting things the PO did with the wiring harness, but I think I can put it back together properly without too much trouble. I cleaned the carbs with help from this page http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3017242. They were in pretty decent shape but had some serious sludge on the needle jets. One bowl has tiny dead ants in it. Yes, ants. I'm having trouble getting the carbs installed because the trumpet boot things that connect the air box to the carbs are all hard and distorted. It looks like the PO crammed them on half way and tightened the poo poo out of the clamps a decade or two ago. I've got new boots coming in the mail next week. Once I take care of those things, the tank needs to be cleaned and the petcock probably does as well. The tires look good, the front break looks good but will get a flushing, and there is something wrong with the rear brake. The pedal goes down pretty far with little resistance and hesitates to come back up. I'll tear it down soon. As far as I can tell, the GS750t was only made in 82 and 83, and it has unique side panels, a different tank, and maybe some other stuff. My seat is completely useless, the foam is shot and the metal part is rusted to pieces. The seller threw in a seat from a different bike that's in pretty good shape, but it doesn't fit. Do I have to get a seat from another 82-83 gs750t or would a seat from a different model fit? So far I've found a NOS seat on eBay for 300+, and a used one in good shape on Craigslist 1000+ miles away. I emailed the seller to ask about shipping, but have yet to hear back. In all the pictures of my bike that I find online, the tank and side covers have 2-tone paint. Mine is just plain black so I guess it was poorly repainted at some time. A lot of the chrome, especially the handle bars and mirror stalks is rusty. Over the winter I'll take care of the cosmetic stuff. For now I just want to get it roadworthy so I can ride for a while before it gets cold. Of course, I may turn out to be the type of crazy idiot who rides in 35 degree rain. User Error fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Aug 21, 2009 |
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Aug 21, 2009 23:42
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I've got a bike I need to sell and I've been very lazy about it. I let the insurance expire, and so the DMV suspended my registration. It was due this month, so the tag itself says it's ok thru the end of the month. Do I have to get it legal again to sell it, or just hope anyone who test rides it doesn't hit anyone or get pulled over? I'm in California.
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Aug 21, 2009 23:45
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What do you guys think about this bike? '74 R80/6 - R60/6 with R80 cylinders and pistons. Basically, he took a wrecked bike and transplanted the drivetrain into a different frame. He did most of the work himself and has owned the bike for 5 years...He was a German guy who knew the bike inside and out and was certainly the type of seller you'd want to buy from. I went and test rode it today, told him I needed to sleep on it. Forks were straight, tranny shifted fine, clutch was good, drum brakes were in good shape. I think the asking price is on the higher side, fair, but not great. I'm looking for something reliable to commute on and do some touring with (I'd put a windshield and get a tank or side bags for that)... Here's the craigslist link http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/1330798802.html and a description what's a R80/6? it started out as r60/6, at some point i put r80 cylinders (which where freshly honed and the the pistons got new rings) on it, but kept the r60 heads on it. smaller intake cross section means higher fuel/air mixture velocity. piston tops and combustion chamber polished; pistons and wrist pins balanced. what else? the carbs are rejetted, they are the sliding type bing carburator; boyer brandsen electronic digital ignition; norton commando reverse cone mufflers in 1 3/4" diameter, also known as pea shooters; i replaced the flapper valve with a reed valve; the front brake is a drum brake, i fine tuned it, so it's very efficient and powerful. bumpstop seat; chrome fenders front and rear. british 60s tail light; led turn signals and rear light; headlight modulator; heated grips; i replaced the original 2 part instrument pod with a small electronic/ digital tach/speedometer incl. idiot lights, that also made the speedo and tach cables obsolete, i plugged the openings. RS handle bar; small bar end mirror, similar to the CRG Hindsight; i always used amsoil synthetic engine oil resp. bmw synthetic for everything else. engine oil change every 3000 miles. 2000 miles ago i resealed the cylinder base, replaced head gaskets and push rod gaskets; replaced rear main seal as well as the tranny input shaft seal. around 5000 miles ago i had the seal between drive shaft and final drive replaced; total milage must be around 40k, i have to look; i still have the original speedo/odometer. tool box and tool kit. tires are still 70%. why do i sell it? been there, done it... i noticed i don't go riding that often anymore (i used to go up north every other week), figured i don't like going that fast anymore, therefore looking for a moto guzzi ambo or el dorado. more images on https://www.cafebmw.blogspot.com
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Aug 22, 2009 03:30
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8ender posted:Just an update to this MrZig. I ordered one yesterday and it should be in next week. I'll post pictures of the mounting when I get it. I ordered the short dark tinted one. Oh, awesome. I picked up a generic windshield (sort of like the spitfire S06) for my bike the other day - a local guy was selling it for $65. It works great at stopping helmet lift and keeping the air off my chest. Added a little turbulence but not bad, will post pics tomorrow. 
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Aug 22, 2009 04:49
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spandexcajun posted:*I have an intake leak* chem42 posted:Work is proceeding on my recently acquired first bike, a 1982 GS750t. If you can fix the PO wiring issues, that's a great thing. Do not fear re-running whole wires if you don't trust it. Just be sure to use multi strand wire of sufficient guage. The carb boots do harden with age. Which side is deformed? The cylinder head side or the airbox side? The airbox side is more or less non-critial on a GS750. And the boots are fairly cheap to replace if your'e so inclined. What makes you think you need to clean the tank? A petcock rebuild kit would likely be a good idea. Any bike that's sat for a while seems to develop a weepy vacuum valve. The rusty bits, can likely be cleaned. The mirrors and handlebars I just recomend replacing. New mirrors, for a set, should cost $30. As will new handlebars. New bars will give you the chance to adjust the bike to fit you. When I buy a standard, one of the first things I do is figure out what bars will be needed so I can be comfortable. Make sure your tires are young enough too. More than 3 years old and you should be looking at replacement. Weather they're worn or not.
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Aug 22, 2009 05:34
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Nerobro posted:It's an intake leaks. I want to believe! I have gone over high and low looking for intake or vac leaks and no luck. I tried spraying starter fluid to find a leak and no luck. I'll give it another go tomorrow, maybe I'll get lucky and find something I missed.
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Aug 22, 2009 06:08
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tron- posted:What do you guys think about this bike?
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Aug 22, 2009 06:19
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Z3N and Mechanism 8: Thank you very much for your advice and information. Sadly, it didn't do a thing. I started the bike a few days ago in the afternoon, and in the evening after I saw this post I went out and messed around with varying degrees of choke. While the bike was starting, no amount of change in the choke seemed to have any impact at all on the RPMs of the bike. The bike has been starting in the mornings and I've been driving it the past few days, however I'm worried that when the temperature drops I'll be unable to start it. I did some reading and research on choke issues, and I think I know what might've happened- I left the state for about a month, and my bike sat in the garage. Is there a chance that the gas sitting in the tank (in a garage in the Phoenix, AZ area, where the outside temperature was getting up to 110 to 115 for most of July) could be causing some issues with my fuel system?
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Aug 22, 2009 08:06
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chem42 posted:Once I take care of those things, the tank needs to be cleaned and the petcock probably does as well. The tires look good, the front break looks good but will get a flushing, and there is something wrong with the rear brake. The pedal goes down pretty far with little resistance and hesitates to come back up. I'll tear it down soon. As far as I know that particular seat was only used on the 750T, but that's not saying another GS model (the GS850G seat looks really similar, all huge with a lock in the back) seat won't fit. Check the brake adjuster arm, the brakes may just be really worn out. For the sticky brake pedal, pull the pedal off (I believe it's a splined shaft that locks into the brake arm that extends to it; just follow the line of the brake pedal shaft through the frame) and wirebrush/lube it. Those things always get stuck.
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Aug 22, 2009 08:07
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Gstu posted:Z3N and Mechanism 8: Thank you very much for your advice and information. Sadly, it didn't do a thing. I started the bike a few days ago in the afternoon, and in the evening after I saw this post I went out and messed around with varying degrees of choke. While the bike was starting, no amount of change in the choke seemed to have any impact at all on the RPMs of the bike. The bike has been starting in the mornings and I've been driving it the past few days, however I'm worried that when the temperature drops I'll be unable to start it. Sounds like you could have junk in your carbs, yes. You can give seafoam a shot. It'll potentially save you tearing the bike down, or it could do nothing. I would also go out and run the poo poo out of the bike. Getting as much flow through the bike's carbs as possible is a good way to knock junk clear. So get it started and go run the hell out of it.
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Aug 22, 2009 08:22
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wide open throttle followed by fully shut throttle. At high rpms. High rpms and shut throttle makes for high vacuum, which will pull lots of fuel through the small passages. i've used that to clean pilots from time to time ;-) but it's effectiveness is less the worse the clog is.
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Aug 22, 2009 08:55
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Z3n posted:Sounds like you could have junk in your carbs, yes. You can give seafoam a shot. It'll potentially save you tearing the bike down, or it could do nothing. If you do have to tear the carbs down, just remember that spraying carb cleaner is not sufficient. You need to either soak the parts, excluding the rubber bits, or use compressed air to blow out the passages. Your best bet is to do both, but at the very least use carb cleaner and compressed air.
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Aug 22, 2009 08:58
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What do you soak carb parts in? All of the parts places got rid of the 'carb cleaner' buckets with the baskets in them a long time ago. Thanks CARB
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Aug 22, 2009 10:01
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i'm told boiling carb parts in lemon juice for 20-30 minutes works wonders. i got some juice to try next time i have to clean some carbs.
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Aug 22, 2009 14:11
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:i don't like a lot of his modifications aesthetically but i see no reason not to buy it. i think the price might be a bit high but not too sure. i hear good things about /6es. i got a basket case i'm working on myself right now. as with all euro brands, parts and service will be pricier than jap brands. less abundant used parts. but if it wasn't abused it'll last a long time. Thanks for the advice. The bike doesn't look abused..the owner was very...German, very meticulous about maintenance and telling me the history of the bike since he owned it. The two quirks about the bike are a little bit of blow by in the left cylinder when parked on the sidestand and the generator periodically needing a little work. I'm going to make him an offer today.
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Aug 22, 2009 18:46
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Terminus Est posted:If you do have to tear the carbs down, just remember that spraying carb cleaner is not sufficient. You need to either soak the parts, excluding the rubber bits, or use compressed air to blow out the passages. Your best bet is to do both, but at the very least use carb cleaner and compressed air. aventari posted:What do you soak carb parts in? All of the parts places got rid of the 'carb cleaner' buckets with the baskets in them a long time ago. Thanks CARB I haven't seen a set of carbs bad enough that they haven't been fixed by carb cleaner and compressed air, and/or wire through the pilots. I'll use a rag with carb cleaner on it to wipe away varnish and the like. Of course, I don't do a lot of restoration work or anything like that.
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Aug 22, 2009 19:15
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i've worked on a bunch of bikes now and the only one i've seen that really required a mega cleaning (ultrasonic cleaner) to fix its issues was an 81 virago. but there was a telltale sign that suggested the problem. the bike had sat in a garage a long time, and one of the carbs had so much varnish in it that the slide needle was glued to the main jet. when i pulled the slide out, the needle stayed in the jet. that's a lot of varnish.
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Aug 22, 2009 19:22
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CV carb question (Mikuni BS34). I took the slide covers off to adjust the jet needle holding clip, and I noticed that the tops of both rubber diapgrahms were shiney/wet and smelled of gas. Is this normal?
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Aug 22, 2009 21:01
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Well, I've been progressively undertaking bigger and bigger projects with my SV and with friend's bikes...moved through oil/filter/plug changes to coolant flushes to a rear shock swap, and now I'm at a carb cleaning. If you can't tell, I'm still a rookie wrench, but working on it. Anyway, my friend has a recently-acquired 1984 CB650 which had a rough idle, lots of backfiring and spitting at high revs, and would randomly die at stoplights. We changed the air filter, got a new battery, changed the spark plugs and the oil, and used a good dose of seafoam, all to no avail. So we decided to pull the carbs. Everything went fine with the removal and cleaning, we followed the thread here very carefully so as to not damage any jets or needles or anything. Installation threw us a snag though: we can't get the airbox-to-carb rubber boots to seal properly on the airbox. Anybody got any tips? In addition, the bike won't start. It turns over fine (we have it on a tender) and seems to catch briefly with no choke, but if the choke is on it just spins and spins. Is this because of the poorly sealed airbox boots? or something else? It ran (poorly) before we started, and we haven't changed anything else. We didn't mess with the mixture screws or anything of that sort.
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Aug 22, 2009 22:43
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MrZig posted:CV carb question (Mikuni BS34). yup, that's normal
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Aug 23, 2009 10:41
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surging with choke on, slow throttle response, slow to return to idle after rev up...bad diaphragm(s)? electronic ignition and no vacuum leaks that i could detect...
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Aug 23, 2009 17:40
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My chain clicks so much right now it sounds like a bicycle's freewheel when I'm walking it forward. I'm checking it out tonight, is there anything I should look for besides a hosed chain/sprockets? (I just reset the tension before the weekend)
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Aug 24, 2009 23:03
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Un-l337-Pork posted:2005 Honda Rebel 250 Ok, I installed a new battery and it fires right up with the choke open. Without the choke, it putters and dies right away at idle. It runs without the choke if I constantly give it throttle. The new battery definitely helped things a lot. I also did an oil change to see if that would help make the shifting a bit easier (it's fine once it's moving, but it's pretty tough to find neutral at a stand-still), so we'll see if that helps. I wasn't able to go for a good ride because the bike is not yet insured or registered (although I will likely be taking care of both tomorrow), so I'll see if the choke issue is just a cold bike needing to warm up and be ridden (when the previous owner delivered it to me, she had ridden it there with the choke completely off). I guess I can also check the idle screw to see if it's in some sort of wonky position, but I'm still sort of leaning towards stripping and cleaning the carb over the weekend. We shall see. Also, I had the bike up past 20 for the first time and I had a poo poo-eating grin on my face when I hit 35mph. Just wish that I had a tach.
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Aug 24, 2009 23:27
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Did you let the bike warm up completely before shutting off the choke? It'll probably need to be run a little bit if it hasn't been run in awhile. Fresh gas can help too. Once you get it running use a lot of throttle to flush new gas through there.
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Aug 25, 2009 00:30
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Z3n posted:Did you let the bike warm up completely before shutting off the choke? It'll probably need to be run a little bit if it hasn't been run in awhile. Fresh gas can help too. Once you get it running use a lot of throttle to flush new gas through there. No, and actually, it probably has had the same gas sitting in it for a month or more. I will grab more gas tomorrow after I have insurance and plates.
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Aug 25, 2009 00:40
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The rear light bulb on my klr is burnt, does this explain why my signal lights have been acting up i.e. flashing quickly sometimes and sometimes not flashing at all, just glowing?
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Aug 25, 2009 10:09
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