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Tipped posted:http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/mcy/1329569443.html I'd lean towards the bottom one. $2K will buy a fair amount of farkles and the mileage isn't a problem for a boxer twin.
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Aug 21, 2009 03:12
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Need help from some CB folks. I'm doing some research but holy poo poo there is a ton of information on them. Basically I'm thinking of making an offer on this bike: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/1330421957.html It'll be a project bike, going to turn it into more of a cafe racer look. So two questions: Prices in my area are usually kinda hosed up. What would be a decent offer on this model (1979 CB750)? Anything particular to the 750s that I should look at? I know the bike basics to look for but more particular to CB or the 750 itself. (this'll be something like my 13th used bike purchase but first CB purchase) Thanks. ETA: Holy poo poo found another one, usually the selection around here sucks! Its a CB650 nighthawk. Same questions as above. http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/1329757402.html Tindjin fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Aug 21, 2009 |
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Aug 21, 2009 05:18
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Quick question, does anyone have any experience with the late seventies XS400 twins? A friend bought a 1978 running and in pretty good shape for the stupid low price of $300. I'd like to know if theres anything specific to this model I should tell him about.
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Aug 21, 2009 13:20
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The timing chain guide cracks off. The bit that comes off falls into the crankcase. This wedges between the crankshaft sprocket and the crankcase. This seizes the motor.
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Aug 21, 2009 15:23
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Well that sounds like a lovely thing to happen. I assume they didn't hide it anywhere stupid and I can just pop the timing cover and take a look? Are signs of wear noticeable before complete failure or does it just go kaboom one day? Also its an auto tensioner setup right?
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Aug 21, 2009 15:41
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Any non-preferential reason why a Buell Blast would be a bad starter bike? I'm seeing them bounce around craigslist/ebay/etc for around 2k on average and they seem interesting. Also, I'm 6ft 170lbs, if size is an issue with this bike.
EndofGoogle fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Aug 21, 2009 |
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Aug 21, 2009 16:17
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EndofGoogle posted:Any non-preferential reason why a Buell Blast would be a bad starter bike? I'm seeing them bounce around craigslist/ebay/etc for around 2k on average and they seem interesting. Also, I'm 6ft 170lbs, if size is an issue with this bike. They're vibey, they don't make a lot of power, they're an air cooled single that is basically just a harley engine chopped in half, heavy. It's not that it's a bad bike, it's just that most prefer the 250 for a variety of reasons. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Buell_Blast_vs_Ninja_250 There's a good, unbiased rundown on the bikes. Personally, I wouldn't touch a buell blast with a 10 foot pole. I actually like the styling, but everything else about it is just bleh. There's a reason that the 250s are hard to find and the buells float around forever. There's also a reason for Buell's latest ad campaign, haha.
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Aug 21, 2009 16:34
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Tindjin posted:Need help from some CB folks. I'm doing some research but holy poo poo there is a ton of information on them. I have the first bike you're looking at. $1800 is significantly too much money for this bike. I paid $600 for mine, and while it needed some work, it's AT MOST a $1200 bike in absolute perfect condition. That is, if he's done the valve clearance and carb sync and there is not a single issue whatsoever with the bike. If I were you, I'd wait until an SOHC CB750 comes up or talk this guy down to a grand, which is what that bike is worth. The DOHC bikes are very maintenance intensive, and it's all that special Honda sort of maintenance, which means you'll be swearing at it forever with bloody knuckles. Problem areas: The early DOHC bikes had camchain tensioner problems. What problem? Well, the tensioner is made of plastic, and it will eventually shred into the engine in some cases. Not all cases; I think this was drastically overreported because.... ...you need to do the valve clearance and tighten the tensioners once every 6000 miles or so. The job is a huge pain in the rear end; it's not hard, but it takes time. The first time you do it, budget a good 6-8 hours and be sure you're someplace where if it rains, it doesn't rain into the head while the valve cover is off. Because the above job is a pain in the rear end, nobody did it. This causes engines to grenade, and people blame it on the tensioner when it was their own damned fault most of the time. The carbs can be finicky. When they work, they're excellent. This is no different than any other old UJM, however. The only DOHC CB750K bikes I tend to see are these 10th Anniversary ones (like mine). For some reason, they're fairly common despite being a "special edition." I think some folks just stored them and forgot about them until the early part of the millenium or something. The 10th Anniversary bike is a normal K with chrome on everything and reverse comstar wheels. The rear is apparently a bizarre size for a comstar (it's like 16 or 17, and I guess most reverse comstars are another size), but tires are easy to get. It's a pig of a bike; slow speeds are when you will drop it, because all the weight is up high. But once you're moving, it's a pleasant ride. Sounds like a sewing machine with the stock exhaust (well, mine are like the 4-into-2's on the bike you're looking at; the stock was 4-into-4. Still sounds like a sewing machine). The single disc brake is barely passable. I bought the forks and brakes off a '79 CB750 F just to have dual brakes, which are much better. Bear this in mind. Also, the '79 is a first year bike. It's the only year with the size swingarm bolt that it has, the fork diameter is smaller than the 81-82 K series bike, and the chain is a 630 rather than a 530 unless the owner swapped the sprockets (not that it matters, but 630 chains are a bit pricy). EDIT: quote:Upgrades to exhaust, intake. New chain and sprockets. New brakes front and rear. Recent valve adjustment and cam chain (2008) Less than 1000 miles on new tires. Looks like he's covered the bases. It's still not an $1800 bike, though as you said, the prices in your area may just be weird. George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 21, 2009 |
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Aug 21, 2009 16:43
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Thanks for the info Shlomo. When were the SOHC released? What about this one? 1981 CB750F http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/1333748271.html
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Aug 21, 2009 21:52
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Z3n posted:They're vibey, they don't make a lot of power, they're an air cooled single that is basically just a harley engine chopped in half, heavy. It's not that it's a bad bike, it's just that most prefer the 250 for a variety of reasons. Hmmm, alright. I guess I'll see what pops up the cheapest, feels nicest in hand and happens to be in best shape and go from there.
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Aug 22, 2009 00:32
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Tindjin posted:When were the SOHC released? SOHCs were '69 to '78, DOHCs were '79 to '82. Something Shlomo didn't mention: the DOHC 750/900/1100 (and SOHC 650) charging rotors have a tendency to short out, frying the r/r in the process.
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Aug 22, 2009 01:09
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Tindjin posted:Thanks for the info Shlomo. When were the SOHC released? That F is a repainted rat of a bike. If it's running like a top, I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it. If people pay money like that for bikes of that caliber in New Mexico, I think I have a new plan to get rich. Searched around CL a bit. All prices are inflated. Don't know what to tell you; try a want-ads; maybe they'll pan out better. Bucephalus posted:SOHCs were '69 to '78, DOHCs were '79 to '82. I thought they just started under-charging, putting strain on the reg/rec and causing them to die that way, but charging issues are about the only common problem I've somehow avoided. I think there's a cheap reg/rec swap you can do, but you'd have to check the CB1100f forums. George RR Fartin fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Aug 22, 2009 |
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Aug 22, 2009 05:26
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Shlomo Palestein posted:That F is a repainted rat of a bike. If it's running like a top, I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it. Thanks, yea I've never paid asking price for anything I found on CL but wasn't sure on a starting point for CBs. Welcome to the hell that is stupid prices because of low availability. One of the guys who worked for me kept saying how he'd like to go out to Cali, rent a big Ryder truck and pack it full of bikes then bring them back to sell. We did some price comparisions and it did actually look like even with truck/gas you would make a decent profit. I'll keep searching for my project bike. Girlfriend wants to go out to Cali for vacation later this year, might talk her into taking my truck instead of flying if I don't find something.
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Aug 22, 2009 06:26
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Shlomo Palestein posted:I thought they just started under-charging, putting strain on the reg/rec and causing them to die that way Well, yes. The under-charging comes from the rotor being shorted internally. Shlomo Palestein posted:charging issues are about the only common problem I've somehow avoided. You're lucky; I have a SOHC 650 and a DOHC 750, and the rotors are toast on both. Shlomo Palestein posted:I think there's a cheap reg/rec swap you can do, but you'd have to check the CB1100f forums. There's a thread on the SOHC4 forums about using a $15 Ford truck regulator and a couple of zener diodes.
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Aug 22, 2009 17:07
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Ok, I still haven't found anything to buy and the smaller quicker bike bug is still biting. I really want to do a track day or ten and my GS with it's suspension and brakes just won't cut it. In a semi quick run down the local squid heaven (South Grade road on Palomar mountain for those who know it) I had zero front brakes about half way down. Not fun. This is even with EBC HH pads and fresh fluid. I was just about set on a new 600 (probably Kawi) when I found something...else. The bike that caught my eye is a 1991 FZR 600. 16.5k miles. It's running, registered and good to go. Needs tires due to time and probably some other maintenance items. Good but not perfect fairings. Salvage title due to something or other before he or the ppo owned it, but the seller says he's had all of the plastics off of it and can't find any evidence of it ever being crashed hard. He's also just rebuilt and resynced the carbs and replaced the fork seals. All of this and more can be mine for the low low price of $700. The seller is my AMA chapter president so I'm pretty sure of the description and what he's done to it. I'm going to have a look tomorrow and maybe take it home. Anyone here have any experience with these things? EDIT: Opps, it's an FZR not YZF. Got ahead of my self a few years. Also, its got a new battery and he's tossing in another tender to add to my collection of battery tending devices. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Aug 23, 2009 |
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Aug 23, 2009 03:37
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I'm a noob rocking a suzuki gz250. I really dig the style/what I've read about the triumph bonneville. Can anyone comment on these bikes? Would it be a good second step (probably next season)?
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Aug 23, 2009 03:54
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The bonneville is an excellent bike. Good parts supply chain. Good rider support. And hell, it's just a good bike all over. I've had the chance to test drive one. It's not just a good move up, it's a good final move.
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Aug 23, 2009 08:52
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EndofGoogle posted:Any non-preferential reason why a Buell Blast would be a bad starter bike? Because they're really crappy bikes. I took my MSF through the Harley Rider's Edge program, and spent three days on them. God, what a lousy bike. VERY VERY rough, your wrists/hands go numb after a couple hours, as does your rear end. The front brakes are VERY grabby, and rear brake requires so much force that it's almost useless. Some people complain that the clutch is too grabby as well, but I never had problems with it. If you want a thumper standard, a Ninjette is probably a better choice.
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Aug 23, 2009 09:00
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The ninjette isn't a thumper. Ninja's are all multi cylinder bikes. Thumper means 4 stroke single. There aren't a lot of single cylinder standards left. The only one I can think of are enfields.
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Aug 23, 2009 09:29
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Technically, every largebore thump enduro could be considered a standard, since they all have an upright position and are useful for darn near everything. But more specifically, Suzuki makes a thump retro single as well as a thump cruiser.
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Aug 23, 2009 10:17
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I completely forgot about the tu250. It's even efi!
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Aug 23, 2009 10:39
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I'm looking to buy my first bike. I've been searching like crazy and I'm looking to spend no more than around $6000. I'm not adverse to buying a cruiser or a sport bike (I like the look of both of them). I'm a bigger guy, 6'4''/260 pounds so I'm thinking that 250s are probably out of the question. I'm really looking at the Kawasaki Vulcan 500. I think that's probably my best option for the time being. Is there anything particularly lovely about these bikes? Are they reliable/long lasting? I plan on driving country roads and commuting back and forth to work. Is there anything else I should be looking at? The only other bike I have experience with is my brother's Kawasaki 550 LTD that I learned the basics on.
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Aug 23, 2009 15:08
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Dracon Wolf posted:I'm looking to buy my first bike. I've been searching like crazy and I'm looking to spend no more than around $6000. I'm not adverse to buying a cruiser or a sport bike (I like the look of both of them). I'm a bigger guy, 6'4''/260 pounds so I'm thinking that 250s are probably out of the question. I'm really looking at the Kawasaki Vulcan 500. I think that's probably my best option for the time being. Is there anything particularly lovely about these bikes? Are they reliable/long lasting? I plan on driving country roads and commuting back and forth to work. Is there anything else I should be looking at? The only other bike I have experience with is my brother's Kawasaki 550 LTD that I learned the basics on. For half that price you can get a carbureted mid 90's evo sportster 1200 if you like cruisers. For half or less you can get a carbureted SV650. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the Vulcan except its boring.
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Aug 23, 2009 15:47
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Dracon Wolf posted:I'm looking to buy my first bike. I've been searching like crazy and I'm looking to spend no more than around $6000. I'm not adverse to buying a cruiser or a sport bike (I like the look of both of them). I'm a bigger guy, 6'4''/260 pounds so I'm thinking that 250s are probably out of the question. I'm really looking at the Kawasaki Vulcan 500. I think that's probably my best option for the time being. Is there anything particularly lovely about these bikes? Are they reliable/long lasting? I plan on driving country roads and commuting back and forth to work. Is there anything else I should be looking at? The only other bike I have experience with is my brother's Kawasaki 550 LTD that I learned the basics on. As VTNewb says, I wouldn't spend 6000$ on a Vulcan 500. If you really want one, pick up a used one, or an EX500 (uses the same engine). It's really not worth paying all of that money when you're not quite sure if it's really what you want yet. Get some experience on a used bike that falls under a bike catagory that you're interested in, and see if that's what you really want. Experience first, and then go out and buy the shiny bike that you really want.
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Aug 24, 2009 17:07
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Ok, now that I've gotten my driver's license today, I'm on the hunt for a used EX500. Today I visited a seller and rode a ex500 for the first time, the one he's selling. Rode it up and down his street, and it was pretty drat fun and felt smooth through the gears. The body was obviously a early '90's design, which I like, with some scratches here and there. It's a '95 ex500 with 5700 miles. Up for sale for $1,800. Owner says the battery and tires were recently replaced, Kenda tires from what I could tell. He was the 2nd owner, and said the 1st owner hit a fence through skidding out, resulting in a dent in the left muffler. He also replaced the gas tank. The front suspension had a sticker on 'em saying "'96-'97" - does that mean they're that old and need replacing? One other thing that worried me was the chain. It felt taut, with 1/4-1/5 inch of flexibility. It looked grimy and rusted. Does it need replacing? What else should I look for, ask for, especially with the mileage being this low?   
the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Aug 25, 2009 |
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Aug 25, 2009 00:07
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The chain is too tight, if you've only got 1/5th to 1/4th of an inch of flexibility. If he's been running it like that for an extended period it can damage the engine due to putting a shitload of pressure on the countershaft. That's way too expensive for a 14 year old EX500. I'd say closer to 800$, especially considering you'll probably need to do the tires (What's the date code on them?), the chain and sprockets, and it's been crashed plus it's not matching. Low mileage doesn't mean a lot, considering the bike's been down and hasn't been maintained that well. Z3n fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Aug 25, 2009 |
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Aug 25, 2009 00:26
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Nerobro posted:I completely forgot about the tu250. It's even efi! TU250s overseas are like TW200s in Japana- They have sort of a cult following. Apparently people love stripping them into dirt trackers and such. I wish they would make a bigger displacement version, the lines are actually pretty nice. I would ride the hell out of them  
Chill_Bebop fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Aug 25, 2009 |
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Aug 25, 2009 00:49
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Z3n posted:The chain is too tight, if you've only got 1/5th to 1/4th of an inch of flexibility. If he's been running it like that for an extended period it can damage the engine due to putting a shitload of pressure on the countershaft. The guy has the chain tightened up to cover the fact that it's pretty well phucked. Budget for front and rear sprockets and chain. Check for oil leaks near the countershaft (front ) sprocket, if you see oil there the seal and possibly the bearing have been damaged from the excessive tightness. To be honest, I don't think I can, in good conscience, sign off on this bike. It's been down and the owner is deliberately trying to cover up problems.
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Aug 25, 2009 02:51
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Gnomad posted:The guy has the chain tightened up to cover the fact that it's pretty well phucked. Budget for front and rear sprockets and chain. Check for oil leaks near the countershaft (front ) sprocket, if you see oil there the seal and possibly the bearing have been damaged from the excessive tightness. Gnomad makes very good points, and with all of that in mind I'd say that closer to 800$ would actually probably what it'd have to sell for if I were to go for it. Then again, people don't usually like it when you show up and offer less than half their asking price.
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Aug 25, 2009 04:01
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Ok I'll make this easy. I'm saving up until january. Suzuki dr650 or Honda's xr650l. I'm going to be riding mostly street and highway to work. But some light trail riding, and maybe advriding after I learn a little more about bike repair( pretty noob right now). I want the suzuki more, for the black and white color and i just generally like the look a little better. The only reason im considering the honda is the height (I'm 6'4) and the fact that id be trading in my honda metro scooter and id get a better deal through honda. So brand new stock which would be better for my needs. Anyone have experience with both?
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Aug 25, 2009 04:43
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I don't think you're going to get a better trade in on your scooter just because it's a Honda, unless they have some sort of special thing going on. Also, are you talking about buying new? If so, don't. Especially not an adventure bike. You'll spend a bunch of money only to have it devalue like hell when you drop it for the first time offroad. You should be able to find a nice used one with all the ADV farkles you could want for much cheaper. Then you'll have a bike that'll both fit what you want to do and it'll be set up. DL650s are based on the SV engine and will go forever with proper care (100k+, easy). Your height won't change things too much. Each bike and rider is different, I have a friend who's 6'5 and thinks his R6 is the most comfortable thing in the world. He rides an XR as well and prefers the R6 for street and distance.
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Aug 25, 2009 05:54
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He's looking at a DR650 not a DL650.
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Aug 25, 2009 12:29
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Z3n posted:think one less cylinder, and a whole lot less dough. thumpers for life  If i knew more about bike repair and maintenance I'd but up for getting a used. Wasn't planning on adv riding it any time soon. Maybe once iv put a few miles on it and know it better. Yeah i know used wouldnt be too bad, but i wanted to get a new bike and make my own dents on it, not someone elses. To me thats worth the extra thousand or two. Havent decided yet, because that extra thousand or two and I could supermoto the bike :O EDIT: any classes for motorcycle repair for personal use? I don't want to get a job fixing bikes so i dont need to be certified, Id just like to learn hands on how to fix the problems that would come about on my bike. I plan on one day adv riding maybe in the next ten years, so this would be essential. philkop fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Aug 25, 2009 |
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Aug 25, 2009 12:58
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philkop posted:I plan on one day adv riding maybe in the next ten years, so this would be essential. Get a nice street bike. The bikes you want are the more hardcore variants of the type of bikes like the KLR or GS650, and actually have some offroad ability, which reduces the amount of streetability. Since you clearly aren't going to be doing more than 1% of "ADV" riding (and lets be real here, to most people ADV riding is a flat straight dirt road you could blast down on a CBR1000), just get a street bike. If you want to dirt ride, get a dirt bike later.
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Aug 25, 2009 15:08
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Not knowing how to work on a bike really isn't a reason to buy new. If you buy a bike in good running shape you really shouldn't have to do any work on a bike that a new bike wouldn't need as well. If you wanted to take a class you could take an auto repair course and a small engine rebuilding class. There isn't much difference between cars and bikes with regard to the type of work you do. Bikes are just easier to do most things on compared to a car.
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Aug 25, 2009 16:49
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To the people who advised on the purple '95 Ninja 500 - thanks for your opinions. I'm now delving into the intricacies of buying a motorcycle through the Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide by Adam Glass, too, and have told the owner to forget it. Thanks!
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Aug 25, 2009 16:54
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Endless Mike posted:He's looking at a DR650 not a DL650.  How did I miss that. philkop posted:think one less cylinder, and a whole lot less dough. thumpers for life The best way to learn about working on a motorcycle is to buy a really, really cheap used one, ideally a runner, and then slowly fix it up. I'd still recommend buying used, as the additional 2k that you spend on a new bike could easily buy you a basket case runner, a parts bike, and all of the tools you could ever need. Then you could have a reliable daily and a project to wrench and learn on. There are classes out there for motorcycle repair, but I'd personally recommend that you find a basket case and post up for help on here. If you buy a repair manual, between that and us we'll be able to walk you through pretty much anything and everything you could want to do. Look at MrZig's thread, he went from a complete newb to tearing down his own engine and eventually swapping in a new one. Don't buy a dual sport for street use. They're good bikes and all, but most of your riding will be street. Buy a streetbike. If you want a dirtbike, find an old dual sport to fix up. The usual guidelines apply. In CA, where everything with a plate is rape, I spent 700$ and got a street legal XR500 that was in running condition, although not good condition. Something like that would be perfect for a project for you. Spent 1500-2000$ on a good starter bike, buy a project, and start learning. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Aug 25, 2009 |
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Aug 25, 2009 17:05
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It's an especially bad idea to buy a bike that has been out and pretty much unchanged for ages. The XR650L has been the same since the mid 80s or something crazy and the DR is also quite old. If you've got the cash and want to buy some new hot poo poo bike then go for it. That would only apply to people that have enough riding experience to not have newbie drops/dumps/crashes.
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Aug 25, 2009 17:25
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n8r posted:It's an especially bad idea to buy a bike that has been out and pretty much unchanged for ages. The XR650L has been the same since the mid 80s or something crazy and the DR is also quite old. If you've got the cash and want to buy some new hot poo poo bike then go for it. That would only apply to people that have enough riding experience to not have newbie drops/dumps/crashes. exactly the opposite, i dont want some "hot poo poo bike" i just want something cheap, easy to fix daily driver.(not only is it single cylinder, but as you stated its remained basically unchanged for quite a bit, so it wont be too hard to find parts for it, or as some of you suggested, i could even get a whole doner bike of the same make, just older.) I'm reconsidering used. My main issue wasnt so much as having to fix the problems and not knowing how, it was not knowing what any problems were when i bought the bike. Also to those of you who opposed dual sports. I was planning on stiffening the suspension, and slapping 17's on there. I was under the impression enduros were workhorses and could take pretty much anything. I figured if it could take dirt riding, it would do fine in my every day driving. I mainly wanted one more for the idea of not having to worry about what i put it through, more than for its offroad ability. Maybe im mistaken. But i assumed enduros would be cheaper in repair (specially for a thumper like i planned on), tires, gas, and from what i hear the dr 650 is basically bulletproof.
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Aug 26, 2009 00:04
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philkop posted:exactly the opposite, i dont want some "hot poo poo bike" i just want something cheap, easy to fix daily driver.(not only is it single cylinder, but as you stated its remained basically unchanged for quite a bit, so it wont be too hard to find parts for it, or as some of you suggested, i could even get a whole doner bike of the same make, just older.) I'm reconsidering used. My main issue wasnt so much as having to fix the problems and not knowing how, it was not knowing what any problems were when i bought the bike. Also to those of you who opposed dual sports. I was planning on stiffening the suspension, and slapping 17's on there. I was under the impression enduros were workhorses and could take pretty much anything. I figured if it could take dirt riding, it would do fine in my every day driving. I mainly wanted one more for the idea of not having to worry about what i put it through, more than for its offroad ability. Maybe im mistaken. But i assumed enduros would be cheaper in repair (specially for a thumper like i planned on), tires, gas, and from what i hear the dr 650 is basically bulletproof. If you're going to go through that work, why buy a DR and mod it? Just get a DRZ400SM. However, if you're primarily going to be doing street riding, there is no reason to get an enduro. They're going to be underpowered on the freeway, miserable at speeds over 75mph, and thumpers in general have a tendency to burn oil when held at high RPM. Bulletproof is good, but if you're not gonna be comfortable on it, it's going to make any sort of distance riding miserable. Buy a good streetbike for street riding, and buy a good dirtbike for offroad. If you do that, you don't have to compromise with certain things like comfort for distance traveling, and additional weight on your offroad bike to get one that can be comfortable on the freeway. Find a 250ccish dirtbike to learn and screw around on, and find some streetbike for street riding. 6k is plenty of cash to pick up whatever you want.
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Aug 26, 2009 00:53
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