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niethan posted:The rear light bulb on my klr is burnt, does this explain why my signal lights have been acting up i.e. flashing quickly sometimes and sometimes not flashing at all, just glowing? No.
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Aug 25, 2009 12:52
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My buddy's chain slipped "due to having too much slack"...I took one look at the back of his bike and notice he had worn down his sprocket to next to nothing. Every tooth was about half as high as it should have been, VERY shallow indeed. He replaced it two years ago when he changed the number of teeth by 2, but how on earth does it wear out in two years? I'll hopefully post pics of it tonight, as I convinced him he needed a new one.
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Aug 25, 2009 13:00
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UserNotFound posted:My buddy's chain slipped "due to having too much slack"...I took one look at the back of his bike and notice he had worn down his sprocket to next to nothing. Every tooth was about half as high as it should have been, VERY shallow indeed. He replaced it two years ago when he changed the number of teeth by 2, but how on earth does it wear out in two years? I'll hopefully post pics of it tonight, as I convinced him he needed a new one. Lack of preventive maintenance.
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Aug 25, 2009 13:18
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Can anyone point me to any resources that talk about how sport bikes work? I grew up around cruisers and generally know how those work (though I've never ridden one, myself), and lately I've been wanting to buy a sport bike simply because I'm in awe of them. I'm not interested in looking cool or going fast as much as I am learning about it and feeling how it works. I look at virtually any sport bike and I'm in awe of the engineering and precision that goes into it. I definitely respect the bike a good deal, but if anyone has any source for helping me learn more about how sport bikes specifically work, I'd be much appreciative, and obviously better knowledgeable once I actually start riding.
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Aug 25, 2009 15:21
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Nasam posted:Can anyone point me to any resources that talk about how sport bikes work? I grew up around cruisers and generally know how those work (though I've never ridden one, myself), and lately I've been wanting to buy a sport bike simply because I'm in awe of them. I'm not interested in looking cool or going fast as much as I am learning about it and feeling how it works. I look at virtually any sport bike and I'm in awe of the engineering and precision that goes into it. I definitely respect the bike a good deal, but if anyone has any source for helping me learn more about how sport bikes specifically work, I'd be much appreciative, and obviously better knowledgeable once I actually start riding. Define "how they work"? It's a motorcycle. There's nothing super special about any of the modern bikes from the big 4, they're just EFI 4 cylinder 600cc/1000cc motorcycles. They've got higher quality suspension components, more aggressive geometry than standards/cruisers, and use the lightest stuff possible to keep weight down, but besides that, it's just a motorcycle. The thing about motorcycle engineering is that it's not a precise art. There's not one setup or geometry that works best for a given rider in any given situation, it's very much a matter of compromise. Prefered suspension valving, weight distribution, engine power characteristics, etc, can and will end up being very different between riders as they prefer different handling characteristics in their motorcycles. If you're looking for stuff that talks about MotoGP bikes, which do actually run some crazy poo poo as far as bikes go, I really enjoyed MotoGP Technology, and if you're looking at more about how the rider works with the bike, I really liked Performance Riding Techniques: The MotoGP manual of track riding skills. These books won't really teach you anything about riding one, but they will cover a lot of the technical theory behind riding. Also note that it doesn't really matter how much technical theory you read or understand, it's not going to make you a better rider, and unless you jump to some incorrect conclusion, it's not going to make you a worse rider either. Understanding the technical details of your bike doesn't help you ride any safer or faster. Modern supersports are still pretty simple, all told. The differences in sportbikes at this point are mostly in seating position. Any non-track/average rider would be hard pressed to tell bikes apart if they were riding them without actually knowing what they were on. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Aug 25, 2009 |
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Aug 25, 2009 15:29
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Nasam posted:learn more about how sport bikes specifically work Like humans and big apes, it's 99% the same. All the controls are exactly the same. The bikes fuel injection systems are the same. Engines can be different, but since you asked a question that broad all you care about really is the configuration, displacement, and number of cylinders and any more talk of technology wouldn't do you much good. Essentially whats "different" comes down to rider configuration, materials the bike is made of, and the positioning of the wheels and the suspension to increase movement output to rider input. So sportbikes are light, have a more centralized mass and you'll notice the front wheel is closer to the bike frame than it is on a cruiser. Now, I know someone is going to come in here, quote my post and try to pick it to pieces, but really, thats all you're going to care about.
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Aug 25, 2009 15:32
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Blaster of Justice posted:No. What reasons can there be for that sort of signal light faggotry?
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Aug 25, 2009 17:20
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niethan posted:What reasons can there be for that sort of signal light faggotry? Relay's probably burning out.
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Aug 25, 2009 17:25
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Not sure if this belongs here or in the gear thread but here it will be. Has anyone tried the moto cinch tiedown system from these guys? http://www.motocinch.com/ They look neat as hell but I question if they really work as well as they say. I've got a garage full of junk that looked neat but ended up not being and don't need more.
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Aug 25, 2009 19:50
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Watommi posted:I've got a bike I need to sell and I've been very lazy about it. I let the insurance expire, and so the DMV suspended my registration. It was due this month, so the tag itself says it's ok thru the end of the month. Do I have to get it legal again to sell it, or just hope anyone who test rides it doesn't hit anyone or get pulled over? I'm in California. Anyone? Is this a stupid question?
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Aug 25, 2009 22:49
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It's a question for the DMV.
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Aug 25, 2009 23:54
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Watommi posted:Anyone? Is this a stupid question? Since the bike isn't insured, you'd better hope that there are no accidents on a test ride. AFAIK, there's no law that prohibits you from selling a bike that isn't up-to-date with registration/insurance/inspection, though.
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Aug 26, 2009 01:11
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I bought my bike in CA with the registration over due(I think by two years). The only problem with that, is the buyer will have to pay the DMV fees in order to register it under their name. Cost me $160. You also don't need insurance to sell a bike, but if they get pulled over or kill someone on a test ride...Well, you know what will happen.
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Aug 26, 2009 01:58
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Hahah, wow. So I hooked up a multimeter to my bike and tested the battery while it was off and got a reading of 15V or so. (poo poo.) Fired it up, let it idle for a while and then tested it again warmed up and its at 18.5V. (what) Revved it to 5K and its at 19V. (WHAT) The obvious culprit is the voltage regulator. Before I go and buy a new one, anything I should check beforehand? I put my hand on it after i turned off the bike and it was extremely hot, if that means anything. 
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Aug 26, 2009 02:51
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Hahah, wow. So I hooked up a multimeter to my bike and tested the battery while it was off and got a reading of 15V or so. (poo poo.) Actually, if your MM is reading 15V on a resting battery the calibration is off. A charged 12v lead acid battery should read closer to 13.2.
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Aug 26, 2009 07:36
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Taelrin posted:Not sure if this belongs here or in the gear thread but here it will be. I've never had trouble with good buckle style tiedowns. If you need to tiedown a sportbike, use a canyon dancer.
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Aug 26, 2009 16:26
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Taelrin posted:Not sure if this belongs here or in the gear thread but here it will be. Those might be a good investment if you didnt already have tiedowns and whatnot. I cant imagine many people here fall into that category though.
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Aug 26, 2009 16:44
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Lord Zuthulu posted:Is it just me or are aftermarket pipes overpriced? When I get the bike I want in a year or two I'd like to get this nice set of Zards. The thing is they're $1200! For slip-ons! Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it just a tube, some holes drilled in it, wrapped with insulation and put in a can? I know they've got to make a profit but this seems like a big markup. Tell me there's more to it than that. No, not really. Making good exhausts takes some serious craftsmanship and flow calculations not to mention actual testing, and the marked is relatively small. Taelrin posted:Not sure if this belongs here or in the gear thread but here it will be. They look pretty interesting.
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Aug 26, 2009 16:48
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Before I go and buy a new one, anything I should check beforehand? The batteries in your multimeter.
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Aug 26, 2009 19:23
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obso posted:The batteries in your multimeter. Haha, funny you say that. I borrowed it from a friend and it had a battery icon in the corner, I assumed that meant it was on. Would that be cause for inaccurate readings? I tried it again this morning and watched the voltage slowly climb higher and higher until the voltage reported while idling was at 20V. Weird.
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Aug 26, 2009 19:34
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These are about the burliest tiedowns I've seen out there: http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/product/MOTOSPORT-TIEDOWNS-BLACK-CLIP/?catalogId=114895
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Aug 26, 2009 22:17
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n8r posted:These are about the burliest tiedowns I've seen out there: And you can buy 12 of them for the cost of one pair of motocinches.
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Aug 26, 2009 22:38
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My virago's clutch is slipping under heavy acceleration (and when I try to pass on the freeway - revs up to about 5500-6000 and then the bike catches up). Is there anything I can do other than replace the clutch? I already adjusted correctly accoring to the clymer.
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Aug 27, 2009 01:28
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Ok, I know I mentioned this before but now I'm setting my road trip in stone. Maintenance on the bike is all good. I'll be taking a backpack with some chain lube, changes of clothes, and I'll probably bungy it to the rear seat. Not sure, though. Since I do have an undertail exhaust. I'll figure something out. I know the days are weird but I don't have much time and I just realized next weekend is labor day weekend. I'll probably leave Sunday late afternoon or so. Drive to LA is only an hour. Los Angeles - 1 night Santa Barbara and or San Luis Obispo - 1 night Fresno - A bit out of the way but have a friend here. Possibly 1 night or not at all. San Fransisco - 2 nights. Lake Tahoe?? - 1 night? I might couchsurf here and there. Have some friends in some of the places. I don't have much on time restraints but I don't think riding on the Friday-Sunday of labor day weekend is a good idea. Anything I'm missing? I'll be taking PCH most the way. I'll be on a 2001 GSXR
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Aug 27, 2009 06:20
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No. You need to either adjust or replace your clutch. It's an expensive task and hugely time consuming. Clutch fibers for your bike will cost $30 or so, and it will take two-three hours to do if it's your first time. I think I could do a gs clutch in twenty minutes.
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Aug 27, 2009 06:53
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Bike burning out headlight bulbs and multimeter bullshit. Ok, so I threw in a fresh set of batteries and I'm getting normal looking numbers now. OFF Sits at around 13.1 to 13.2V which is good. However, starting it up and letting it idle for about 3 mins gives me 17 Volts. Rolling onto the throttle to 5K RPMS gives me 18, so something is up. I haven't traced any wires to see if there's any issues with shorts or exposed wire yet, but the fact that I'm getting 18 volts under load makes me think its probably just the voltage regulator right out. Confirm/Deny?
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Aug 27, 2009 08:43
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Sounds a lot like a voltage regulator to me. Light bulbs are great for that because they're like in a canary a mineshaft for potentially wire melting electrical problems.
8ender fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Aug 27, 2009 |
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Aug 27, 2009 13:32
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Nerobro posted:No. You need to either adjust or replace your clutch. It's an expensive task and hugely time consuming. Clutch fibers for your bike will cost $30 or so, and it will take two-three hours to do if it's your first time. I think I could do a gs clutch in twenty minutes. I think you mean it's NOT an expensive task or hugely time consuming.
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Aug 27, 2009 15:36
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^^ Is there a :woosh: emote? Serious question: How the hell do I sell my race bike in short order? I've got it priced about a grand below what I actually want. Should I just put it in storage and see if my family can sell it while I'm gone?
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Aug 27, 2009 18:35
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Simkin posted:^^ Is there a :woosh: emote? Yup. The bike market for race/trackbikes is pretty limited. What are you asking?
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Aug 27, 2009 18:53
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w00t w00t. I feel so drat proud. This is in followup to the previous questions about my friend's R/R. We transplated the battery from my bike into his and cranked away. Starter was fine, but it refused to start. Turns out that the vacuum hose from the crankcase to the petcock at come off at some point, probably during the intial attempt to bump start the bike. I credit tek for her thread giving me that knowledge. Tried to do some trouble shooting with the bike running and testing the R/R and stator voltages and resistances. Seems that there's an infinite resistance between the stator wires and the frame, but about 3 Ohms between the stator wires themselves. Which is odd as the troubleshooting manual we were following said they ought to be 0.5 to 2 (I think). Oh, and the stator wires had a whole 10 volts AC between them when the bike was revved. Bad news was that the needle didn't even flicker when measuring across the battery, no matter how much it was revved. Oh well, we've got an electrician friend coming over to have a poke, but I'm assuming the stator is gone (we think the R/R was fine, apart from some values slightly outside the guide's values, it seemed to check out).
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Aug 27, 2009 20:38
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Z3n: $CAD2000 for an 02 GSX-R600 with a bunch of take-offs and a set of stands. I figure at that price, it'd be worth it even just for parting it out.
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Aug 27, 2009 20:47
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Orange Someone posted:w00t w00t. I feel so drat proud. This is in followup to the previous questions about my friend's R/R. Replace one piece at a time, there's really not much sense in checking R/Rs as I've seen ones that should work according the testing fail completely under use. Stator and check again, and that's probably all you'll have to do. Simkin, that is a good deal. The market's just really poo poo now  Does it have a plate and title?
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Aug 27, 2009 22:33
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Does anybody know if it's legal to drive a motorcycle in Alaska with an Ontario M2 driver's license? I'm hoping to ride to Anchorage next summer but I'm not eligible for my full M until October 2010. If not I'll have to just stick to the North West Territories, but that would be a shame. I've sent a message to the Alaska DMV but haven't gotten a response yet. I thought maybe someone here may have already run into this.
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Aug 28, 2009 22:47
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Alaska does not have graduating licensing, as long as M stands for motorcycle you won't have any problems.
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Aug 29, 2009 00:25
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My sidestand is all hosed up. It goes way too far forward so the big leans wayyy over. it wasnt like that when i parked it last week (havent had time to ride in ages). I artificially set it a little higher. But I'm not sure what to do next. are kick stands easy to fix? Could it have been bent? Rarg
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Aug 29, 2009 04:59
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ATTN MrZig: I got the F16 windshield and mounted it today. Its a really simple mounting system and you shouldn't have any problem. In the pictures I have it mounted over the fork ears but I later redid the mounting to have the windshield in between the ears and the bucket. Total cost was $100 CAD. I think it looks sexy  I got sick of the saddlebags so KZ is now also sporting a handsome luggage rack for the ride into work  riders perspective  No word on how well it stops wind because it started storming as soon as I finished. 
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Aug 29, 2009 05:32
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Mr. DNA posted:Does anybody know if it's legal to drive a motorcycle in Alaska with an Ontario M2 driver's license? I'm hoping to ride to Anchorage next summer but I'm not eligible for my full M until October 2010. If not I'll have to just stick to the North West Territories, but that would be a shame. 
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Aug 29, 2009 05:51
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BlueBayou posted:My sidestand is all hosed up. It goes way too far forward so the big leans wayyy over. it wasnt like that when i parked it last week (havent had time to ride in ages). I artificially set it a little higher. But I'm not sure what to do next. are kick stands easy to fix? Is it the stock sidestand? Perhaps one of the bolts on the mounting bracket is loose or something? http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Image:Center_side_stands.jpg
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Aug 29, 2009 05:51
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sirbeefalot posted:Is it the stock sidestand? Perhaps one of the bolts on the mounting bracket is loose or something? Dang. Based on that diagram and looking at it this morning in the light, its definitely bent. How does that happen? I havent touched it!? So I guess I should order a new sidestand and try to install it. edit: $89 for a new sidestand!?!? looks like ole Indy is going to have to deal with it for a while. How wonky is it for me to park my bike on the centerstand if I'm not on a hill? or a just a gentle slope? BlueBayou fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Aug 29, 2009 |
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Aug 29, 2009 18:00
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