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Maybe a piece of exhaust wrap attached to the back of your bag. That should protect it from wear, and also not catch on fire. Do you sew and/or have a grandmother?
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Sep 4, 2009 04:24
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Zool posted:Maybe a piece of exhaust wrap attached to the back of your bag. That should protect it from wear, and also not catch on fire. Do you sew and/or have a grandmother? I can sew and knit just fine.
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Sep 4, 2009 04:35
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edit: fixed
reir fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Sep 4, 2009 |
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Sep 4, 2009 05:08
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Uthor posted:So I'm trying to diagnose the clattering noise I'm getting from the top of my engine. I didn't take a video before tearing it apart (stupid), but it sounds a bit like these videos. Here's a video of how much slack I have in the chain after putting my auto chain tensoner back on (hopefully with the correct torque specs as it doesn't quite match my manual). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gCfWqtFTjA I don't think this is a problem, really. There is a guard that goes over this. The bottom of the guard is a curve that the chain follows. When the guard is on, I can't move the chain up or down at all. I'm going to check clearances tomorrow and double check that nothing is worn out. I really hope the clatter goes away after this.
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Sep 4, 2009 05:42
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Uthor posted:Here's a video of how much slack I have in the chain after putting my auto chain tensoner back on (hopefully with the correct torque specs as it doesn't quite match my manual). That is a problem. It should be tight. However, you may just need to rotate the engine 360 degrees to get it to tighten up. Give that a shot first, and if it doesn't tighten up you probably need to replace it. How hard was it for you to lift and push the chain down? All of the bikes I've ever worked on have always been almost totally solid, but admittedly I've never worked on a EX500 engine. Either way, that much slop is going to make quite a bit of noise. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Sep 4, 2009 |
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Sep 4, 2009 15:34
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Z3n posted:That is a problem. It should be tight. However, you may just need to rotate the engine 360 degrees to get it to tighten up. Give that a shot first, and if it doesn't tighten up you probably need to replace it. How hard was it for you to lift and push the chain down? All of the bikes I've ever worked on have always been almost totally solid, but admittedly I've never worked on a EX500 engine. Either way, that much slop is going to make quite a bit of noise. Almost no force to lift it. Like I said, though, there is an "upper chain guide" (to quote the service manual) that goes over the top. I just put the guide back on and I can't move it in either direction anymore. I did forgot to measure the chain length, so I will go back and do that later today when I get a minute.
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Sep 4, 2009 19:04
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Uthor posted:Almost no force to lift it. Like I said, though, there is an "upper chain guide" (to quote the service manual) that goes over the top. I just put the guide back on and I can't move it in either direction anymore. Is it just a cover for the chain or does it add tension to it?
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Sep 4, 2009 19:30
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Z3n posted:Is it just a cover for the chain or does it add tension to it? It seems to add tension. Maybe I should have put it on before putting on the tensioner? I'm worried that the tensioner is at the end of it's movement and not being able to give more, but that can only be checked by measuring the chain length. I don't know if I'll have time to get to that today. I'll redo it tomorrow and check the valve clearance. I really need to rule out valve clearance first, as that's the easiest and cheapest route (except for all the time it takes me to tear the bike down to get to the valves in the first place.
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Sep 4, 2009 20:06
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Uthor posted:It seems to add tension. Maybe I should have put it on before putting on the tensioner? I'm worried that the tensioner is at the end of it's movement and not being able to give more, but that can only be checked by measuring the chain length. I don't know if I'll have time to get to that today. I'll redo it tomorrow and check the valve clearance. I really need to rule out valve clearance first, as that's the easiest and cheapest route (except for all the time it takes me to tear the bike down to get to the valves in the first place. Hrm, I don't have experience with the internals on a ninja/vulcan 500. What year is yours? From the microfiche on bikebandit it doesn't look like the chain guide should be tensioning anything.
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Sep 4, 2009 22:35
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Z3n posted:Hrm, I don't have experience with the internals on a ninja/vulcan 500. What year is yours? From the microfiche on bikebandit it doesn't look like the chain guide should be tensioning anything. 2006. Is this the image you are talking about? http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo.../m4504sch436256 It's part 12053 on that page. The chain has a definite curve to it after I put the guide on. I cannot move the chain at all in either direction with the guide on. I'd put up images from the manual I have (how do you get JPEGs out of a PDF? Does Print Screen work?), but it doesn't show anything. I should get out there tomorrow and I'll take an "after" shot or video showing everything more clearly.
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Sep 5, 2009 03:09
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Kawasaki cannot, cannot, make cam chain tensioners. Buy a manual APE one.
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Sep 5, 2009 04:36
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Kawasaki cannot, cannot, make cam chain tensioners. Buy a manual APE one. Do you have a link? I found this site, but there's nothing for either Ninja or Vulcan 500 cc engines.
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Sep 5, 2009 04:43
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Hey guys... Just picked up an '82 KZ1000J2 that's a bit of a odd duck. It was bought used with 6K in '89 by my brother-in-law, who rode it for a bit and then proceeded to rebuild the entire bike pretty much. The guy is a brilliant auto mechanic but not really a biek guy... One example; when I brought the bike to get an inspection sticker it was pointed out to me that although the front tire was directionally correct, the forks were installed backward, with the brake calipers on the front side of the fork tube. Given that I didn't notice, I guess I can't fault him though.  The bike was ridden only a few hundred miles after all the work was done, and went into a shed for 20 years or so. It only has 7K miles on it today. So when he did the bike over back in '89, he sent the engine out to some shop in NH to be rebuilt. They either bored or stroked it out to 1100cc and did some other hot-rodding work, exactly what he doesn't remember. It has the stock Mikuni BS34 carbs, and they've never been properly set up. When he was trying to get the idle smoothed out he was constantly fiddling with the pilot screws, so I really don't know what they're at at the moment, nor do I know if the jets are original. I would guess that the carbs would have been re-jetted by the shop that did the engine rebuild/punch-out, but I'm not sure. The stock airbox is still on the bike, but the exhaust has been swapped out for a Vance & Hines 4-into-1. The bike is an animal over 3K, but the idle creeps up when it's warm, the idle isn't smooth at all, and the throttle response off idle is terrible! Where should I start looking for problems? I did a carb synch, and they're pretty close to spot-on. I'm going to look for vacuum leaks next. Speaking of vacuum, here's a weird thing... When I did the carb synch, I put an auxiliary fuel tank on, disconnecting the regular tank and bypassing the vacuum petcock that was connected to the vacuum fitting on carb #2. I connected the vacuum gauges of the synch tool to the vacuum ports of each carb, disconnecting all the other vacuum lines in the process. When I did this, it seemed like the throttle response was beautiful! What does this tell me? Is there a vacuum leak that I eliminated by bypassing all the vacuum lines?
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Sep 5, 2009 04:50
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I think my dad just blew his engine on his R1. He said he was getting on the highway last night and accelerating, heard a loud bang and felt the bike lose like half the power. He managed to lug his way home out of the downtown area (it's about a 10 minute ride,not a good idea but worse could've happened if he stayed where he was) since no one was able to pick him up. Now, when the bike starts it makes an awful clattering sound and doesn't want to stay on. Is there an easy way to diagnose what went wrong and how to fix it? I could probably get a video or something if that'll help. It's a 1999 R1. fake edit: found a video that might be something like it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIQvjJdG1HY&feature=related
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Sep 5, 2009 05:09
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Uthor posted:Do you have a link? I found this site, but there's nothing for either Ninja or Vulcan 500 cc engines. http://zxzone.com/sprockets.html You need the KT1100.
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Sep 5, 2009 05:18
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2ndclasscitizen posted:http://zxzone.com/sprockets.html You need the KT1100. Do you have any idea if that would work on a pre-'08 EX250? They specifically mention the new model, but I was under the impression that the engine was still similar at least to the old style.
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Sep 5, 2009 05:27
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2ndclasscitizen posted:http://zxzone.com/sprockets.html You need the KT1100. Cool, thanks. I'm not 100% sure it'd fit between the engine and the temperature sensor on the radiator, though. If the problem doesn't go away tomorrow, I might give that a try.
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Sep 5, 2009 06:30
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sirbeefalot posted:Do you have any idea if that would work on a pre-'08 EX250? They specifically mention the new model, but I was under the impression that the engine was still similar at least to the old style. The motors are the same. Uthor posted:Cool, thanks. I'm not 100% sure it'd fit between the engine and the temperature sensor on the radiator, though. If the problem doesn't go away tomorrow, I might give that a try. Because they fit a wide range of motors, they can be a tight fit.
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Sep 5, 2009 06:36
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Kawasaki cannot, cannot, make cam chain tensioners. Buy a manual APE one. I've never had a cam chain tensioner problem on any of my kawasakis, only hondas. With that said, if you're gonna replace it, a manual one is a fine choice as long as you can get to it and adjust it easily. I like the automatic ones myself, I've never had a problem with any of them. (Except installing them,  )AkrisD posted:I think my dad just blew his engine on his R1. He said he was getting on the highway last night and accelerating, heard a loud bang and felt the bike lose like half the power. He managed to lug his way home out of the downtown area (it's about a 10 minute ride,not a good idea but worse could've happened if he stayed where he was) since no one was able to pick him up. Now, when the bike starts it makes an awful clattering sound and doesn't want to stay on. Honestly, it doesn't really matter what happened to it, it'll be cheaper to buy a used engine and swap it in than it will be to have it rebuilt.
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Sep 5, 2009 06:45
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Z3n posted:I've never had a cam chain tensioner problem on any of my kawasakis, only hondas. Well, I readjusted the valves to the middle of the range instead of the loose end and put everything back together. The noise persists. I'll try with manual tensioner next. Here's a video of the noise. The mic didn't really pick up all the treble, but the high pitched clatter is much louder in real life. I also seem to have covered the mic when I walked to the left side of the bike. I suck at movie making. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ATtrsZT8_8
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Sep 6, 2009 00:05
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So, how do y'all lube your chains? I get the cleaning and warming up...whatever. But when it comes to putting the poo poo on, what do you do? I got a can of spray lube from walmart, got I hated that stuff. Got white poo poo all over my sprockets, generally pissed me off. I've got a bottle of gear oil (85w-140 Coastal brand) and I just spin the rear wheel and put a glob on each link, one side then the other. Is that right?
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Sep 6, 2009 05:28
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I use the white poo poo. It's a bit of a PITA, though. Clean with a brush and kerosene, ride around the block to heat up the chain a bit (the lube goes on easier), then a spray of lube on the inside of the chain. I get it on my wheel, the ground, and on the swingarm, but it doesn't really bother me as it offsets the caked on asphalt (long story) and layers of dirt.
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Sep 6, 2009 05:35
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Methusulah posted:So, how do y'all lube your chains? I get the cleaning and warming up...whatever. But when it comes to putting the poo poo on, what do you do? I got a can of spray lube from walmart, got I hated that stuff. Got white poo poo all over my sprockets, generally pissed me off. I've got a bottle of gear oil (85w-140 Coastal brand) and I just spin the rear wheel and put a glob on each link, one side then the other. Is that right? A modern O-ring chain does not require much lubing. Just enough to keep rust away. loving NEVER boil a O-ring chain. I keep my chains pretty dry and generally just use 15-40W motor oil to keep them in shape. Too much lubing with aggressive penetrating oils will destroy your O-rings and too greasy chains will just attract more grit and dust.
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Sep 6, 2009 05:42
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Blaster of Justice posted:A modern O-ring chain does not require much lubing. Just enough to keep rust away. loving NEVER boil a O-ring chain. It's mostly I don't want to use too much (that's costly) and I don't want to put it in the wrong place.
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Sep 6, 2009 05:49
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Methusulah posted:It's mostly I don't want to use too much (that's costly) and I don't want to put it in the wrong place. Center stand -> Rotate wheel -> Wipe down chain with an oil soaked plain cotton cloth. Use general 15-40W motor oil and a piece of denim and you'll be able to keep your chains in shape for a lifetime for about $10.
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Sep 6, 2009 05:57
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Blaster of Justice posted:Center stand -> Rotate wheel -> Wipe down chain with an oil soaked plain cotton cloth. Use general 15-40W motor oil and a piece of denim and you'll be able to keep your chains in shape for a lifetime for about $10. Now say I got pissed the other night, and oiled my chain in a rage. (wtf?) Say maybe I might have missed a couple links. Kinked links, instant death, chain dieing in 200 miles?
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Sep 6, 2009 06:03
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Methusulah posted:Now say I got pissed the other night, and oiled my chain in a rage. (wtf?) Say maybe I might have missed a couple links. Kinked links, instant death, chain dieing in 200 miles? I don't think you really understand O-ring chains. Just keep them free from rust and dirt and they'll generally survive nearly as long as your sprockets.
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Sep 6, 2009 06:07
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Blaster of Justice posted:Just enough to keep rust away. loving NEVER boil a O-ring chain. I don't think anyone but a select few are going to understand how or why you'd boil a chain  As to cleaning it? I use 90w gear oil and just wipe it down, much like everyone else. I insure that I don't miss links by just going around it a few times. Line up the bottle with left hand, spin wheel with right hand, and drip oil on the chain while I spin it. Easy.
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Sep 6, 2009 06:09
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Z3n posted:I don't think anyone but a select few older than dirt fossils are going to understand how or why you'd boil a chain One of my buddies used to boil his chains all the time and it must have worked, his chains seemed to last forever. Course that was on an ancient Harley. I like the dry teflon lube stuff from Lowes, can't think of the brand right off my pointy little head but it dries clear, and protects like nothing else without leaving greasy kids stuff on the chain to attract dirt. Largely like the Honda spray lube without the Honda price.
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Sep 6, 2009 07:20
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And NO, you're not supposed to put it in gear and let the chain spin while lubing it. It does not end well.
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Sep 6, 2009 14:32
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Gnomad posted:Course that was on an ancient Harley. I was trying to be nice about it.  Ola posted:And NO, you're not supposed to put it in gear and let the chain spin while lubing it. It does not end well. I think Simkin was the last person to learn that lesson. 
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Sep 6, 2009 15:50
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Last Thursday I was out doing errands and was at a Fedex Kinko's a few blocks from my place. After a half hour or so in there, I came out and jumped on my recently-acquired EX500. It was steering strange, and I looked down to see that the front tire was almost wholly flat. It was fine earlier in the day, I was on the highway. I pulled over, looked it over, and decided to slowly motor it back home at 10 mph. There was some air left. I parked it and since I was starting to have a bad fever, I went back into my home and started focusing on recovering. Today, I'm feeling much better and I went back out to look at the front tire. It was still in the same condition - not wholly flat, just some air in there. I looked over it for possible punctures, foreign objects, and the only thing that I found was this  I've got experience with flat tires on cars, but not on a motorcycle. What should I do? They're Pirelli Sport Demons and look to be in healthy shape otherwise on this used Ninja which I just bought last week. the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Sep 7, 2009 |
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Sep 7, 2009 17:30
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Take it to a bike shop and see if they can patch it. Otherwise buy a new tire.
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Sep 7, 2009 18:07
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the walkin dude posted:I've got experience with flat tires on cars, but not on a motorcycle. What should I do? They're Pirelli Sport Demons and look to be in healthy shape otherwise on this used Ninja which I just bought last week. reinflate the tyre and put some soapy water on it to locate the leak. don't forget to check that its not a valve problem. if it is leaking there just plug it and ride on, it'll be fine. edit, also bummer on a front wheel puncture, they're hard to get compared to rear wheel ones.
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Sep 7, 2009 19:15
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Well I hope you guys are wearing your comfy pants, i've got a laundry list of questions. My bike(Suzuki, GS500, 1991) is vibey as gently caress. On the ride back from the mechanics, I just had to pull over and beat my hands a bit, I couldn't feel them at all. After lunch i'm running over to the bike shop and see if they have any good grips that would help, these ones are really hard. It also likes to drop from second into neutral, or it likes to stop providing power. I'll be riding along in second and BAM, revs shoot up to the moon and I start slowing down. A quick upshift fixes this. It still likes to be a bitch about going back down to idle, it likes to stay about 4k until it's good and ready to drop to a more comfortable level. The front suspension is just about non-existent. The forks love bottoming out(With me on it, theres only about an inch of travel on there) My guy says it's not just the oil but the springs as well and that someone cut them down, trying to cafe it. The chain is pretty loose and on it's last legs. Also needs new tires! The things i'm most worried about are the dropping from second issue and the forks. I'm pretty sure I would need new springs and oil for the forks, but what about the gears? What could be wrong with that?
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Sep 7, 2009 22:41
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edit: got it sorted, was something stupid
Walked fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Sep 8, 2009 |
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Sep 7, 2009 23:37
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Chairon posted:Well I hope you guys are wearing your comfy pants, i've got a laundry list of questions. you may not need NEW springs etc for the forks, if you can find a used pair that hasn't been destroyed, the springs might be fine. your bike has a lot of issues there. the slipping out of gear is the biggest one. far as i know it means your transmission is dying. only a major rebuild would fix it. probably more parts and labor than that bike is worth. everything else sounds like carb problems.
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Sep 8, 2009 01:33
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Chairon posted:Well I hope you guys are wearing your comfy pants, i've got a laundry list of questions. You can get Progressive springs on the cheap, less than 80 I believe. They are the biggest improvement I've made to my GS. Slow return to idle means vacum leak. Spray your intake boots and the tops of the carbs with starter fluid while the bike is running. If it's a 91 the boots may be rotten, but if not it's probably the small oring between the cap of the carbs and the carb body.
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Sep 8, 2009 02:57
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it could also be the o-rings on the back of the boots. That's pretty common, and $1.50, so worth the shot.
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Sep 8, 2009 04:00
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:you may not need NEW springs etc for the forks, if you can find a used pair that hasn't been destroyed, the springs might be fine. your bike has a lot of issues there. the slipping out of gear is the biggest one. far as i know it means your transmission is dying. only a major rebuild would fix it. probably more parts and labor than that bike is worth. everything else sounds like carb problems. I was afraid of that, referring to the transmission. I don't think I have the goods to try replacing a tranny just yet. On my ride home it was popping out of first too  O-rings posted:
I replaced the o-rings when I first got it, i'll check the boots tomorrow.
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Sep 8, 2009 04:08
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