|
In Idaho on the bottom of the title is a Certificate of Release of Liability that you file with the DMV that supposedly absolves you of responsibility. If there's something similar maybe you could do the trade at the DMV and bring it in right then and there? It sucks that the plates go with the vehicles over there. I love my license plate and would be sad to give it up.
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 03:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 07:07 |
|
|
I want to replace the brake pads on my Ninja 500 soon. Looking over the web for replacement pads, I'm getting the gist that they're universal pads. If I bought any pad, would it fit my Ninja?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 04:39
|
|
|
the walkin dude posted:I want to replace the brake pads on my Ninja 500 soon. Looking over the web for replacement pads, I'm getting the gist that they're universal pads. If I bought any pad, would it fit my Ninja? No. Pads are caliper specific, and some bikes share calipers, but as a general rule...no.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 04:44
|
|
|
Do ATVs work similar to bikes (as far as shifting, throttle, etc)? I'm trying to apply to wildlife biotech positions and many require you to know how to operate them to carry gear in the field.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 14:43
|
|
|
The utility quads I've driven are a bit different from bikes but very, very easy. You have a thumb throttle instead of the twist, you have two hand brakes instead of a clutch, etc. But if you can ride a motorcycle it shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes to figure it all out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 14:58
|
|
|
EndofGoogle posted:Do ATVs work similar to bikes (as far as shifting, throttle, etc)? I'm trying to apply to wildlife biotech positions and many require you to know how to operate them to carry gear in the field. The major things I noticed were the thumb throttle and that both hands are brakes. The shifter is just a lift to shift bit, and usually the parking brake is on the rear brake (left side handle) and it's just a little clip that holds the brake in. Pull the brake in to release it and off you go. In the area of painfully obvious, they don't countersteer, and just because you can pound it up a gear or down a gear at will, doesn't mean it's a good idea to slam the ATV into gear. If you're up shifting, let off the gas and shift, and if you're downshifting, goose the throttle a touch right as you shift to help it shift smoothly. Oh, and if you're given to riding one fast, weight the inside as you go around corners, as they like to go up on 2 wheels under heavy cornering. Quads are really, really easy compared to bikes though. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Sep 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 16:44
|
|
|
quads scare me. I've ridden a few, and they're completely un-natural to ride. they're constantly trying to throw you off the side. If you start to slip off the quad the natural reaction causes the quad to turn harder, and therefore try to throw you off more. The steering is almost painfully direct, and the steering kicks fairly hard over the rough stuff. ... I really don't like quads.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 17:08
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Oh, and if you're given to riding one fast, weight the outside as you go around corners, as they like to go up on 2 wheels under heavy cornering. Inside? In similar vein, my first time on a PWC after getting a motorcycle was weird. At first I was apprehensive to the change, but then went all hooligan since hitting water doesn't break bones or rash you up!
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 17:09
|
|
|
UserNotFound posted:Inside? Fixed, thank you. Too early. I like quads because you can mash the gas and go sideways on them. And they're really fun to ride over rough terrain.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 17:26
|
|
|
You can mash the gas on some bikes and go slideways too  I love losing traction in first gear turns then lifting it the front wheel when it comes back. (yes I know it WILL kill me someday)
CSi-NA-EJ7 fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Sep 24, 2009 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2009 23:41
|
|
|
I just felt the need to stop in and say that I absolutely loving love the feeling of hitting an s-curve "just right". edit: gently caress sorry, meant to post in the "less questions more chatting" one Un-l337-Pork fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Sep 24, 2009 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 00:06
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:quads scare me. I've ridden a few, and they're completely un-natural to ride. they're constantly trying to throw you off the side. If you start to slip off the quad the natural reaction causes the quad to turn harder, and therefore try to throw you off more. The steering is almost painfully direct, and the steering kicks fairly hard over the rough stuff. You should try riding a three wheeler ATC. The slightest imput to turn causes it to try and tip over. It's a whole bucket of fun to just turn sharply and try to balance on the two wheels.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 01:40
|
|
|
MrZig posted:You should try riding a three wheeler ATC. The slightest imput to turn causes it to try and tip over. It's a whole bucket of fun to just turn sharply and try to balance on the two wheels.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 02:29
|
|
|
The starter button on an atv is on the left and on my motorcycle is on the right. I'm sorry guys, I always hit my horn to start my motorcycle...
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 04:01
|
|
|
I have a question about Ducati Monsters. I have a friend getting deployed to the middle east again, and his Duc will be sitting in his garage all sad while he's gone. he hasn't even ridden it this year because of "carb problems". Without knowing much more than that, how difficult are these carbs to work on (it's a 2000, i think 750cc, with a decent amount of miles)? Anything else that should be done to it? I hope to getting it working well as a winter project, and making sure it's loved (ridden) while he's gone... It's a 1500 mile round trip to get it, and then we'll have to work getting it back to him when he returns...so I'm hoping that my effort would offset his cost of taking it to a dealer when he gets back...but it's probably a long shot, right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 18:42
|
|
|
All it'd probably need is the carbs gone though and new gas. Simple and easy to do, ducati carbs aren't any different than any other bike's carbs. I'd also keep an eye on if the cam belts need to be done. Depending on where you're located, everyone speaks really, really highly of Nichols in the Bay Area. Great prices and excellent work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 18:58
|
|
|
Z3n posted:All it'd probably need is the carbs gone though and new gas. Simple and easy to do, ducati carbs aren't any different than any other bike's carbs. Bike is in Virginia Beach/Norfolk, and I'm in Indiana
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 19:12
|
|
|
UserNotFound posted:Bike is in Virginia Beach/Norfolk, and I'm in Indiana If I were in your situation and he didn't mind, I'd fly out there, do whatever work needs to be done on the bike and ride it home, and then keep it around until he gets back and ride it back out to him and fly home. It wouldn't be a winning proposition financially, but it'd be fun.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 19:18
|
|
|
How badly should Nighthawk 650's drain a battery when tooling around at sub 30mph speeds? The bike I'm practicing on seems to eat the whole thing in 30 mins after only 2 stalls in the session. Is this pretty normal for these bikes (I've heard they cannot sit for long), or should I look into a new battery? Trying to push start it in the gravelly lot it lives at gets boring quickly, especially since I weight nothing and cant get the rear to bite in 1st unless I plop down at the right moment.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 19:18
|
|
|
EndofGoogle posted:How badly should Nighthawk 650's drain a battery when tooling around at sub 30mph speeds? The bike I'm practicing on seems to eat the whole thing in 30 mins after only 2 stalls in the session. Is this normal for these bikes, or should I look into a new battery? Trying to push start it in the gravelly lot it lives at gets boring quickly, especially since I weight nothing and cant get the rear to bite in 1st unless I plop down at the right moment. You'll probably have an easier time push starting it in 2nd  Secondly: how much are you reving the bike up? Bikes need to maintain roughly 1/3rd of their total RPM to charge, if you're keeping it under that, it's not gonna charge and could drain in as little as 30 minutes. Do you have a multimeter? The easiest way to test this is to get to the battery, turn the bike on and rev it to 2.5k or 1/3rd of total RPM, whichever is higher, and check that you're getting roughly 14v at the battery. If you aren't, there's a problem with the charging system, if you are, you either need to keep the RPM up or replace the battery.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 19:20
|
|
|
Z3n posted:You'll probably have an easier time push starting it in 2nd For past few sessions I have been keeping it above 2.5k half the time and going up-down 1st-3rd, though recently I've been practicing low-speed maneuvers to prep for the MSF box and stuff. I'll take along a multimeter though and see what it does. I'll try the 2nd gear trick out some more, though it didn't seem to help going from cold (I pushed in the clutch all the way and it was still agonizing to push it, this improved after it warmed up). I though Nighthawk 650's where notorious for being electric hogs at low/near idle speeds. \/\/\/ EndofGoogle fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Sep 24, 2009 |
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 19:32
|
|
|
EndofGoogle posted:For past few sessions I have been keeping it above 2.5k half the time and going up-down 1st-3rd, though recently I've been practicing low-speed maneuvers to prep for the MSF box and stuff. I'll take along a multimeter though and see what it does. I'll try the 2nd gear trick out some more, though it didn't seem to help going from cold (I pushed in the clutch all the way and it was still agonizing to push it, this improved after it warmed up). Your original question is "Is this common for this bike?" No. Not at all. Nearly certainly there's something wrong.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 19:52
|
|
|
EndofGoogle posted:For past few sessions I have been keeping it above 2.5k half the time and going up-down 1st-3rd, though recently I've been practicing low-speed maneuvers to prep for the MSF box and stuff. I'll take along a multimeter though and see what it does. I'll try the 2nd gear trick out some more, though it didn't seem to help going from cold (I pushed in the clutch all the way and it was still agonizing to push it, this improved after it warmed up). You should be pushing with the bike in neutral and kick it up once you get on the bike. The oil is going to cause the wet clutch to drag like crazy if you're trying to push it in gear with it cold.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 21:16
|
|
|
Z3n posted:If I were in your situation and he didn't mind, I'd fly out there, do whatever work needs to be done on the bike and ride it home, and then keep it around until he gets back and ride it back out to him and fly home. It wouldn't be a winning proposition financially, but it'd be fun. See, he's storing in in a friend's garage while he's gone, and I don't know them/they don't know me, and I wouldn't be able to tell them how long I'd need to be there :\ Also, 1500 miles on an unfamiliar bike would be kinda intense. I've only ridden 3,000 miles total since I got my (much less sporty) bike.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2009 22:48
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:The starter button on an atv is on the left and on my motorcycle is on the right. I'm sorry guys, I always hit my horn to start my motorcycle... Nervous as a motherfucker, and I'll be damned if it wasn't right in the middle of a dude making his run through. He didn't fail though, so it was alright.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 00:15
|
|
|
Well, I ran the 650 at 2.5k, it was hovering around 13.5 volts and at idle it was barely 12v.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 17:13
|
|
|
I have a question, sometimes when i hit the front brake on my 2006 ZX-10 i can feel it pulseing. I don't think its a warped rotor because if it was it would always do it and its only occasionally, could 2 1/2 year old brake fluid be causing that? Could it be a air bubble somewhere in my brake line maybe? I was planning on bleeding and changing the fluid this winter but is there anything else i should be looking at?
Sinek fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Sep 25, 2009 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 17:22
|
|
|
EndofGoogle posted:Well, I ran the 650 at 2.5k, it was hovering around 13.5 volts and at idle it was barely 12v. Charging system should be ok. I'd go and get the battery checked. How old is it? Sinek posted:I have a question, sometimes when i hit the front brake on my 2006 ZX-10 i can feel it pulseing. I don't think its a warped rotor because it was it would always do it and its only occasionally, could 2 1/2 year old brake fluid be causing that? Could it be a air bubble somewhere in my brake line maybe? I was planning on bleeding and changing the fluid this winter but is there anything else i should be looking at? Clean the buttons on the rotors. Sometimes they can get gunked up and cause weird issues.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 17:41
|
|
|
I think it's about time to get the Valve's adjusted on my 96 XJ600 Seca II. I've really been into wrenching on my bike lately, and this is something I'd also like to tackle. Acquiring the proper tools not withstanding, how difficult is doing a valve adjustment on and old I4 engine and what kinds of things would be involved? Should I even attempt this or just suck it up and drop $350 on a mech to do it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 20:08
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Charging system should be ok. I'd go and get the battery checked. How old is it? That I don't know, probably after I do my MSF I'll go at this with a wrench and some new parts, the bike isn't in a streetable state right now anyway due to some signal issues.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 21:32
|
|
|
ari.gato posted:I think it's about time to get the Valve's adjusted on my 96 XJ600 Seca II. I've really been into wrenching on my bike lately, and this is something I'd also like to tackle. Acquiring the proper tools not withstanding, how difficult is doing a valve adjustment on and old I4 engine and what kinds of things would be involved? Should I even attempt this or just suck it up and drop $350 on a mech to do it? It's not difficult. The first one is going to be about 100-200$, as you have to buy shims and the tool to depress the bucket, but besides that I think, having watched you work on your bike before, that you're capable of doing it on your own. I'm happy to help if you want to meet up at some point to do it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 22:16
|
|
|
Z3n posted:It's not difficult. The first one is going to be about 100-200$, as you have to buy shims and the tool to depress the bucket... Where would I buy said shims? Of course I'd consult with the Clymers bible to figure out what type I need, but I doubt my local AutoZone will carry Motorcycle specific parts. Any shop recommendations? Z3n posted:...but besides that I think, having watched you work on your bike before, that you're capable of doing it on your own. I'm happy to help if you want to meet up at some point to do it. Thank you sir. I'll make sure to hit you up if I manage to get lost.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 22:20
|
|
|
ari.gato posted:Where would I buy said shims? Of course I'd consult with the Clymers bible to figure out what type I need, but I doubt my local AutoZone will carry Motorcycle specific parts. Any shop recommendations? Gonna have to check the internet for 25mm valve shim kits, there's some available on ebay. You can also buy them from sudco, I think they're local to you so you could pick them up in person. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...sQ5fAccessories I'd buy that, personally. It's got a nice range in the middle and you could pick up single from sudco as needed. Motion pro makes a tool to depress the valves, also available from sudco or motion pro directly. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0017 You know how to get in touch with me if you need any help
Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Sep 25, 2009 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2009 23:46
|
|
|
I have a 2003 sv650n, and I noticed last night on my way home that my speedo/odo had gone tits up. It's been pretty rainy here the last couple of days, but I'm not sure if the rain had anything to do with it or not. My morning commute was about 23 miles and very wet, while the ride home, where I noticed the failure, was dry. When I first noticed it, the speedometer was bouncing around from single digit speeds to about 30mph, and ended up flatlining at 0. At this point, I don't get any reading on the speedometer unless i'm doing about 30mph or less, and it's not right even then. Is this a common problem, and where should I start looking?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 04:58
|
|
|
waptang posted:I have a 2003 sv650n, and I noticed last night on my way home that my speedo/odo had gone tits up. It's been pretty rainy here the last couple of days, but I'm not sure if the rain had anything to do with it or not. My morning commute was about 23 miles and very wet, while the ride home, where I noticed the failure, was dry. When I first noticed it, the speedometer was bouncing around from single digit speeds to about 30mph, and ended up flatlining at 0. At this point, I don't get any reading on the speedometer unless i'm doing about 30mph or less, and it's not right even then. Check that the speedo wire is clean and making good connection. I'm not exactly sure where it reads on a gen 2.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 06:06
|
|
|
waptang posted:I have a 2003 sv650n, and I noticed last night on my way home that my speedo/odo had gone tits up. It's been pretty rainy here the last couple of days, but I'm not sure if the rain had anything to do with it or not. My morning commute was about 23 miles and very wet, while the ride home, where I noticed the failure, was dry. When I first noticed it, the speedometer was bouncing around from single digit speeds to about 30mph, and ended up flatlining at 0. At this point, I don't get any reading on the speedometer unless i'm doing about 30mph or less, and it's not right even then. Your speedo cable probably came out. Check it behind the instrument.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 06:14
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:Your speedo cable probably came out. Check it behind the instrument. I'm 90% sure it's an electric/hall effect pickup on a Gen 2.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 06:16
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I'm 90% sure it's an electric/hall effect pickup on a Gen 2. You'd probably know better than me, but my GL500 acted just like that when the cable came out. EDIT: Unless your speedo doesn't use a cable like my Valkyrie - then just ignore me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 06:21
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:You'd probably know better than me, but my GL500 acted just like that when the cable came out. I double checked, they use a hall effect sensor setup on the bike. A spacer/attachment on the front wheel that runs a hall effect signal up to the gauges. It looks like a cable, but it's just 3 wires in a beefed up looking housing. You can pull off the front wheel and check the sensor manually, sometimes they'll get bodged from a sloppy install of the front wheel. You should be able to rotate it and have the speedo show speed. If it doesn't, I'd start checking the connections.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 15:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 07:07 |
|
|
I need some help selling my current motorcycle to buy something faster/sportier. I've got a 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 with about 12k miles on it. I checked the blue book and it said the bike is worth about $3600 retail. However, I'm significantly under the mileage that it assumes and I have several accessories with it (windshield, leather saddlebags, engine guards, backrest, luggage rack). It's also in good mechanical shape and runs pretty well. On the other hand, the previous owner dumped it (all damage repaired) and it's been mostly kept outside so it's kinda dirty and there is very mild rust that I take off with aluminum foil every once in a while. I've been listing it on Craigslist for about $3200 and would settle for $3000 but haven't gotten a single hit so far. Am I simply asking too much? Should I be listing it somewhere else for better results? Any general advice on how to make an ad which pitches the bike well?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2009 15:58
|
|
