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Fantastipotamus posted:Thanks Nero, I'll give that a shot. What caused it? just sitting too long? that's exactly it.
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Oct 9, 2009 02:53
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So some dude saw me eating my after work fast food snack with my helmet and jacket sitting next to me, and started talking to me about my Ninja. Great bike, this and that, etc. Then he got into how I should really use only the molybdenum based Kawasaki oil, and the bike will last forever. I told him I've been using Shell Rotella T, after reading about it on ninja250.org, and he went into this thing about synthetics only being for "tight tolerance engines" and the EX250 has a "loose tolerance engine" and how I'm going to burn mad oil if I run anything but the stuff he mentioned before (even though it hasn't burned a drop in almost 2k miles on the Rotella T). He mentioned something about working in "the industry" and how he's owned lots of bikes, is any of this worth considering? I'm pretty confident that the forum dedicated entirely to this bike is making a decent suggestion in the Rotella T, and the way he mentioned the Kawi oil just made it sound like a sales pitch. I also don't really understand how that engine can be considered significantly "loose tolerance," considering it spins up to 13k as part of regular operation. If the tolerances were that bad it would just grenade itself anyway regardless of what oil you put in it.
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Oct 9, 2009 03:52
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I recently got a busted up 1982 CB 750 in a deal on Craigslist, and while it's a wonderful project bike it is also my first undertaking of a project this size. It needs a new gas tank, probably a new seat pan, the brakes redone, etc. The first place I wanted to start was getting the engine running again. This involves getting a new gas tank, and when I call up places to look for one the first thing they ask me is the size. Is there a standard measurement I should give them? I know that I need to make sure that the tank will fit appropriately on my bike, but what can I slap a tape measure to in order to figure that out?
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Oct 9, 2009 03:54
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sirbeefalot posted:So some dude saw me eating my after work fast food snack with my helmet and jacket sitting next to me, and started talking to me about my Ninja. Great bike, this and that, etc. Then he got into how I should really use only the molybdenum based Kawasaki oil, and the bike will last forever. I told him I've been using Shell Rotella T, after reading about it on ninja250.org, and he went into this thing about synthetics only being for "tight tolerance engines" and the EX250 has a "loose tolerance engine" and how I'm going to burn mad oil if I run anything but the stuff he mentioned before (even though it hasn't burned a drop in almost 2k miles on the Rotella T). Tight tolerance engines are usually fully water cooled, while less tolerance engines are air cooled, or semi air cooled. Synthetic is perfectly fine.
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Oct 9, 2009 03:55
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areyoucontagious posted:I recently got a busted up 1982 CB 750 in a deal on Craigslist, and while it's a wonderful project bike it is also my first undertaking of a project this size. It needs a new gas tank, probably a new seat pan, the brakes redone, etc. there's only gonna be one tank for that kinda bike, as far as i know. i may be out of the loop on honda factory options, though. so i dunno what they're asking you. either it's an 82 cb750 tank or it isn't. if it's anything else you're probably going to have to weld something on or off to make it work. ebay is always good for poo poo like this, although shipping will be more pricey for a part that size.
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Oct 9, 2009 04:09
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sirbeefalot posted:So some dude saw me eating my after work fast food snack with my helmet and jacket sitting next to me, and started talking to me about my Ninja. Great bike, this and that, etc. Then he got into how I should really use only the molybdenum based Kawasaki oil, and the bike will last forever. I told him I've been using Shell Rotella T, after reading about it on ninja250.org, and he went into this thing about synthetics only being for "tight tolerance engines" and the EX250 has a "loose tolerance engine" and how I'm going to burn mad oil if I run anything but the stuff he mentioned before (even though it hasn't burned a drop in almost 2k miles on the Rotella T).
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Oct 9, 2009 04:12
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sirbeefalot posted:So some dude saw me eating my after work fast food snack with my helmet and jacket sitting next to me, and started talking to me about my Ninja. Great bike, this and that, etc. Then he got into how I should really use only the molybdenum based Kawasaki oil, and the bike will last forever. I told him I've been using Shell Rotella T, after reading about it on ninja250.org, and he went into this thing about synthetics only being for "tight tolerance engines" and the EX250 has a "loose tolerance engine" and how I'm going to burn mad oil if I run anything but the stuff he mentioned before (even though it hasn't burned a drop in almost 2k miles on the Rotella T). He's full of poo poo. You won't notice a difference as long as you run halfway decent oil.
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Oct 9, 2009 04:33
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What brand/type of oil should I buy for my kawasaki versys? Can I buy just normal 10w40 auto oil (i used 10w40 motorcycle last time since that what it calls for) or is there some magic smoke contained in motorcycle oil? It seems crazy that motorcycle oil is 4x as expensive?
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Oct 9, 2009 05:19
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areyoucontagious posted:I recently got a busted up 1982 CB 750 in a deal on Craigslist, and while it's a wonderful project bike it is also my first undertaking of a project this size. It needs a new gas tank, probably a new seat pan, the brakes redone, etc. The K-model tank is shorter front-to-back and rounder than the F-model tank, and the C-model tank is "peanut"-shaped: http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0750/four/four.htm#1982 http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0750/sport/sport.htm#1982 http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0750/custom/custom.htm#1982 After you ascertain which model you have, you can use parts from '79-'82.
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Oct 9, 2009 05:22
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Christobevii3 posted:What brand/type of oil should I buy for my kawasaki versys? Can I buy just normal 10w40 auto oil (i used 10w40 motorcycle last time since that what it calls for) or is there some magic smoke contained in motorcycle oil? It seems crazy that motorcycle oil is 4x as expensive? Actually, the magic smoke is in the automotive oil. If it says "energy-conserving" anywhere on the package, it'll have friction modifiers that degrade the performance of your clutch. (Bike clutches generally operate in the engine oil.) There are oils not specifically labeled as being for use in motorcycles that will work and meet specifications, but it's best to do research into them. Shell Rotella T is probably the most common "non-moto" oil, and can be got in both synthetic and dino flavours, but check around and see if it's ok for your bike.
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Oct 9, 2009 07:58
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Christobevii3 posted:What brand/type of oil should I buy for my kawasaki versys? Can I buy just normal 10w40 auto oil (i used 10w40 motorcycle last time since that what it calls for) or is there some magic smoke contained in motorcycle oil? It seems crazy that motorcycle oil is 4x as expensive? The great debate. Some say auto oil has additives that impair clutch operation. Motorcycle oil isn't that much more expensive. Probably best to spend the extra $2.00 for the peace of mind.
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Oct 9, 2009 16:39
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Doctor Zero posted:The great debate. Some say auto oil has additives that impair clutch operation. Motorcycle oil isn't that much more expensive. Probably best to spend the extra $2.00 for the peace of mind. I've actually experienced problems with the energy conserving oil type causing a clutch to slip. I noticed, double checked the box, discovered that I'd put energy conserving oil. Changed the oil after around 200 miles and the slipping went away. But I've also had a friend who did the same thing and didn't have a problem with his clutch...I think it may depend on the clutch construction and the particular additives in a particular set of oil. Anyways, I use Motul Semi Synth in my trackbike and Rotella in my streetbikes, never had a problem.
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Oct 9, 2009 17:01
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Doctor Zero posted:The great debate. Some say auto oil has additives that impair clutch operation. Motorcycle oil isn't that much more expensive. Probably best to spend the extra $2.00 for the peace of mind. I use Castrol 4T 20w-50 and it has been totally fine, $4.99 at Autozone. Most of the Automotive oils ranged from $2.50 to $6.99, so I felt fine about the price.
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Oct 9, 2009 17:20
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You should always run the recommended oil weight for your bike. 20w50 is for a very special set of engines designed by a company that doesn't know how to make good bearing surfaces. ;-) I usually run normal car oil in my bikes, but my bikes have clutches that are made to handle two to three times the horsepower my bikes make. If you have any sort of a modern bike, non energy conserving oil is important. Rotella is non energy conserving, and cheap.
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Oct 9, 2009 17:23
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Nerobro posted:You should always run the recommended oil weight for your bike. 20w50 is for a very special set of engines designed by a company that doesn't know how to make good bearing surfaces. ;-) The Rotax in my Ape takes that weight as well.
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Oct 9, 2009 18:02
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Nerobro posted:You should always run the recommended oil weight for your bike. 20w50 is for a very special set of engines designed by a company that doesn't know how to make good bearing surfaces. ;-) BMWMOA feels that this is proper weight, and they scare me.
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Oct 9, 2009 18:14
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Saw a post in this thread recently about fixing a cb 750. I also have a question about the cb, but not mechanic one. What is the cb750 like to ride? Right now I'm on a Honda Rebel. It's jumpy, light (about half the weight of a cb750), and extremely manageable, but is slow, and beats the poo poo out of me over long distances. Would a cb750 be a good next bike? (assuming I can fix about anything that would go wrong and that the bike is in good condition to start with) To anyone who's ridden one, I'd love to know how fast they are, how they handle corners and wet conditions, basically anything to convince me to pull the trigger.  Edit: I spel gud
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Oct 9, 2009 21:28
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consider me corrected.
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Oct 9, 2009 21:33
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Tipped posted:BMWMOA feels that this is proper weight, and they scare me. my bmw takes straight sae30 
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Oct 9, 2009 21:42
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Nerobro posted:You should always run the recommended oil weight for your bike. 20w50 is for a very special set of engines designed by a company that doesn't know how to make good bearing surfaces. ;-) I have a bike that calls for 10w60! I think they were just too lazy to do any testing, so they just specified oil that works from freezing to melting point of aluminum.
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Oct 10, 2009 00:29
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Nerobro posted:consider me corrected. I don't know enough about this to get you're original ;-). I don't know the "right" oil so I just did what the internet told me.
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Oct 10, 2009 00:49
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Found on my specifics bike forum that a lot of people run shell rotella motor oil and highly recommend it. So I'll try it and see. Its $10.99 for a 1 gallon jug, which is wayyyy cheaper than $10 a quart for what they say performs the same. Might move my car to it since atwoods has it in 5 gallon jugs for a good price and I also have two 4 wheelers that can use it.
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Oct 11, 2009 01:19
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Christobevii3 posted:Found on my specifics bike forum that a lot of people run shell rotella motor oil and highly recommend it. So I'll try it and see. Its $10.99 for a 1 gallon jug, which is wayyyy cheaper than $10 a quart for what they say performs the same. Might move my car to it since atwoods has it in 5 gallon jugs for a good price and I also have two 4 wheelers that can use it. TEN DOLLARS A QUART??? What the gently caress? Do they travel back in time and kill a dinosaur every time you want one?
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Oct 11, 2009 02:56
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Doctor Zero posted:TEN DOLLARS A QUART??? What the gently caress? Do they travel back in time and kill a dinosaur every time you want one?
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Oct 11, 2009 03:15
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Doctor Zero posted:TEN DOLLARS A QUART??? What the gently caress? Do they travel back in time and kill a dinosaur every time you want one? Yeah, its loving insane, it was just honda brand motorcycle oil. I found autozone had valvoline 10w40 dyno for $4 a quart, but I think i'll stick to this $2.50 a quart shell diesel oil that everyone recommends and passes the specs my bike requests.
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Oct 11, 2009 04:18
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I've wanted to get a bike for a while now, only problem is I live in a major city, and don't ride around here out of fear of death. So what I'm wondering is, would it be feasible to buy a decent sportbike, like a GSX or SV650, and pretty much only use it for track events? I'd still ride on weekends when the weather's nice or whatever, but to me riding a motorcycle around a place like Boston full time seems like suicide, and I'd rather just focus on competitive racing. I get the sense that not riding public roads all the time will seriously impede my ability to be a better rider and if I want to race bikes I might as well not be a bitch and ride it every day I can.
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Oct 11, 2009 05:46
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Yeticopter posted:I get the sense that not riding public roads all the time will seriously impede my ability to be a better rider and if I want to race bikes I might as well not be a bitch and ride it every day I can. I don't race, but it seems to me that racing vs. street riding focuses on different skill sets. Beyond basic control of the bike, racing would be focusing on making the perfect line and using the limits of traction while street riding is about focusing on traffic patterns and unexpected obstacles. The two don't really translate well to each other.
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Oct 11, 2009 05:59
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Does anyone know what the difference between the Mikuni BST and BSR carbs is? The Bandit has BST36SS carbs, and DRZ400's have a BSR36. The bandit air/fuel screws are impossible to get to without taking the whole rack of carbs off the motor, and no one makes extended fuel screws for the BST36SS's on them. Kientech makes some for the DRZ with the BSR36's. I'm wondering if they're interchangeable? Anyone have any ideas? EDIT: Looks like the 1st-gen Bandit shares fuel screws with the DR350, so I may be able to just order the DR350 screws on that page. The bandit fuel screw and the DR350 fuel screw share the same part# on ronayers, so I have to assume this would work, correct? Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Oct 11, 2009 |
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Oct 11, 2009 06:21
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I just put my Yamaha FZ6 in storage because it started snowing here in Nebraska. I filled it up with gas and put some fuel stabalizer in there. It's also on the center stand, but I wasn't able to sucessfully take out the battery. In order to take it out I have to take off some front fairing, and undo a couple bolts and lift up the gas tank. My question is how bad is it to just leave it in the bike for possibly 4, 5, or 6 months as a brand new battery? Should I not even risk it and take it out? I do have a battery tender, but was caught offguard with how quick winter came. I live in dorms and needed to get it into a sheltered area quick. Edit: The storage unit does not have outlets so I would need to take the battery out to put it on the tender in my room.
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Oct 11, 2009 11:47
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M4gic posted:I just put my Yamaha FZ6 in storage because it started snowing here in Nebraska. I filled it up with gas and put some fuel stabalizer in there. It's also on the center stand, but I wasn't able to sucessfully take out the battery. In order to take it out I have to take off some front fairing, and undo a couple bolts and lift up the gas tank. My question is how bad is it to just leave it in the bike for possibly 4, 5, or 6 months as a brand new battery? Should I not even risk it and take it out? At least disconnect the negative terminal. You'll probably need a bump start, but assuming that works, the battery should be OK. It's probably worth the effort to pull it anyway.
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Oct 11, 2009 15:00
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chryst posted:At least disconnect the negative terminal. You'll probably need a bump start, but assuming that works, the battery should be OK. It's probably worth the effort to pull it anyway. Okay I'll have to do that. 6 months is probably too long for a battery to sit anyways. I just wish it wasn't such a pain to get to the battery.
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Oct 11, 2009 16:14
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I left mine in last year, but the bike was in my friend's attached garage, so it stayed mildly warm all winter in there. Started up just fine in the spring.
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Oct 11, 2009 16:29
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M4gic posted:Okay I'll have to do that. 6 months is probably too long for a battery to sit anyways. I just wish it wasn't such a pain to get to the battery. It will probably be fine. Really, the only issue is that if you don't keep it charged, you will reduce the life of the battery. It shouldn't hurt the bike at all.
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Oct 11, 2009 17:52
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Doctor Zero posted:It will probably be fine. Really, the only issue is that if you don't keep it charged, you will reduce the life of the battery. It shouldn't hurt the bike at all. Was the battery connected? I've never seen a battery with the terminals connected survive being idle for more than a few months. Your mileage may vary of course.
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Oct 11, 2009 19:50
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I was lubing my chain and got a little over spray on my rear tire near the edge. I tried to scrub it off but it's not coming off real easy. Is it dangerous? Should I scrub it off or can I just ride it off?
Net Boners fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Oct 11, 2009 |
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Oct 11, 2009 23:24
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Ride it, it's no big deal.
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Oct 11, 2009 23:51
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Phat_Albert posted:Does anyone know what the difference between the Mikuni BST and BSR carbs is? I'd just be careful that the extended screw doesn't catch up on something, but besides that it'd be compatable. Yeticopter posted:I've wanted to get a bike for a while now, only problem is I live in a major city, and don't ride around here out of fear of death. So what I'm wondering is, would it be feasible to buy a decent sportbike, like a GSX or SV650, and pretty much only use it for track events? I'd still ride on weekends when the weather's nice or whatever, but to me riding a motorcycle around a place like Boston full time seems like suicide, and I'd rather just focus on competitive racing. I get the sense that not riding public roads all the time will seriously impede my ability to be a better rider and if I want to race bikes I might as well not be a bitch and ride it every day I can. Uthor's correct in that street riding and track riding don't have a lot of cross over, but you do need to get comfortable on a bike, and you can definitely get comfortable on a bike on the street. I do have friends who have essentially done nothing but ride on the track, and started racing after a year of consistently going to trackdays. So it's really not the end of the world to not ride on the street if you want to start racing, you just have to understand that there's really different skill sets involved.
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Oct 12, 2009 00:16
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OrangeFurious posted:Was the battery connected? I've never seen a battery with the terminals connected survive being idle for more than a few months. Your mileage may vary of course. Well by "fine" I mean drained, but maybe not dead. Do it enough and you'll kill it faster though, yeah.
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Oct 12, 2009 04:19
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Any tips for riding in the rain? I was out riding right after a rain earlier and I could feel the bike hunting and moving around under me, I've ridden in the rain before but never felt it this bad. I'm on new sport demons too, so I don't think its the tires fault.
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Oct 12, 2009 04:40
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sw0cb posted:Any tips for riding in the rain? I was out riding right after a rain earlier and I could feel the bike hunting and moving around under me, I've ridden in the rain before but never felt it this bad. I'm on new sport demons too, so I don't think its the tires fault. I often feel the bike squirming under me in the rain, but in most cases it's my brain squirming above me.  Brand spanking new tires are slippery, but I assume you have some miles on them. If I'm concerned about traction, I try locking my rear wheel. I do it at slow speed and since I'm very focused on what I'm doing it never develops into fishtailing, but more often than not I can't easily lock it and it shows traction is pretty good.But after long periods of dry weather followed by light rain, the roads are slippery as hell. On smooth tarmac I could lock the rear with medium pressure and the tire didn't make any screeching noises, just a weird FFFFFFFF noise. That puckered me up pretty good. But after a hard blast of rain, all the oil, coolant, pollen, dust and other crap is washed away and traction is much better.
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Oct 12, 2009 10:25
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