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MrKatharsis posted:Geico wanted $3000 a year from me when I got my sportbike. The next worst estimate was $2200, and I ended up paying $800. Yeah right off the bat Progressive is 50% cheaper. I imagine I am going to be switching auto insurance as well
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Oct 22, 2009 23:23
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 13:19 |
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Sooo, just wondering, can anyone help with my question?
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Oct 23, 2009 00:04
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ari.gato posted:Sooo, just wondering, can anyone help with my question? Aluminum foil supposedly works nicely to get surface rust off, and then high temp black paint. Someone with more experience with rusted bikes can probably offer better advice on how to get the rust off. Those are just generic exhaust springs, should be available from just about anywhere. http://www.bikebandit.com/vance-hines-ss2-r-exhaust-springs-and-puller-kit?WT.mc_id=1484958 There's a set of springs and puller kit, although I don't know what sort of assortment they'll give you. Spring pullers will vastly reduce the amount of swearing the job takes.
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Oct 23, 2009 00:18
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ari.gato posted:Sooo, just wondering, can anyone help with my question? You waited 5 whole hours before asking again?
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Oct 23, 2009 01:23
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Doctor Zero posted:You waited 5 whole hours before asking again? I think of it more like 18,000 seconds. But yes. My bad.
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Oct 23, 2009 01:25
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Gnaghi posted:On the subject of insurance, how does Rider treat riders with tickets? They won't even give me a quote if you say you have 3 tickets in three years. I have 2, and don't want to deal with being dropped if I happen to get another. So far as I can tell Progressive is bat-poo poo insane. They wanted $1900 to insure my Thruxton, but $900 for a Bonneville. Same bike, different ergonomics. Worse, they agreed it didn't make any sense but shrugged it off. Markel is $500 a year.
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Oct 23, 2009 19:10
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OrangeFurious posted:So far as I can tell Progressive is bat-poo poo insane. They wanted $1900 to insure my Thruxton, but $900 for a Bonneville. Same bike, different ergonomics. Worse, they agreed it didn't make any sense but shrugged it off. I was pricing insurance on literbikes a couple weeks ago just for fun, and Progressive wanted $1000 per month (yeah, I don't even know what the christ) for a new 1000RR. State Farm on the other hand wanted $1500 per year for the same coverage. I live in a relatively high crime area (Atlanta) and I'm under 25 so Progressive wants nothing to do with me and they make it incredibly obvious.
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Oct 23, 2009 19:27
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https://www.aisinsurance.com i think ive already posted about this but just check with every company you can find. ais found me the cheapest for some reason. hope its a legit company! newby question: my crankcase needs to come off so i can clean my front cog, do i need any type of sealent when i put it back on or do the screws suffice? also what are good signs that you need new suspension? and what about brake fluid? the bike has about 30k and i dont know its total history.
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Oct 23, 2009 19:29
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r!de the short bus posted:newby question: my crankcase needs to come off so i can clean my front cog, do i need any type of sealent when i put it back on or do the screws suffice? also what are good signs that you need new suspension? and what about brake fluid? the bike has about 30k and i dont know its total history. You're not talking sense. Your crankcase most definitely does not need to come off. What kind of bike? What makes you think you need to clena the front sprocket? 30k, it's probably time to think about suspension work.
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Oct 23, 2009 19:49
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ari.gato posted:Sooo, just wondering, can anyone help with my question? The headpipe and midpipe should be able to be cleaned up with some steel wool, if its just a few small spots. If its a lot of surface rust, sandblast it. Many cities have self-spray sandblasting shops, where you bring your part in, and blast it yourself for a per-minute fee. If you cant find one of those, find a body shop or mechanic that has a blaster and have them do it for you. Then repaint the can and midpipe with high temp paint. If you want to go black, get Harley Davidson brand high-temp (seriously). Its expensive, but its the best high-temp I've ever used, and I've tried them all. As for the can, hit the surface rust with fine grain (00 or even 0000 would be best) steel wool. The rust should reveal chrome underneath. After you get the rust cleaned up, hit the chrome with this: http://www.nevrdull.com/ The stuff is quite literally magic, and will make future cleanings easier. If the rust penetrates the chrome, then its time to consider having the chrome blasted off and painting the can black, or rechroming the can. As for the springs, any good hardware place should have them. If you cant find them locally look here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#extension-springs/=46to22 You can use elongated hook springs, but swivel hook ends are ideal. Does that cover it all? EDIT: Upon further examination of your headpipe, just have it blasted, you'll go crazy trying to clean it up by hand. Its still definitely salvageable though. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Oct 23, 2009 |
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Oct 23, 2009 22:23
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Phat_Albert posted:As for the can, hit the surface rust with fine grain (00 or even 0000 would be best) steel wool. The rust should reveal chrome underneath. After you get the rust cleaned up, hit the chrome with this: http://www.nevrdull.com/ The stuff is quite literally magic, and will make future cleanings easier. If the rust penetrates the chrome, then its time to consider having the chrome blasted off and painting the can black, or rechroming the can. I think that can is aluminum, and the rust on it is from the bolts. If the can is in fact aluminum, don't use steel wool on it. Steel fibers can become embedded in the surface of the aluminum and start rusting. If it is chromed steel, do what he said.
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Oct 24, 2009 01:38
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Whats the cheapest way to rivet a master link? Will just hitting it with a hammer work?
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Oct 24, 2009 04:18
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Whats the cheapest way to rivet a master link? Will just hitting it with a hammer work? I've used a punch before. It works ok.
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Oct 24, 2009 04:55
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Whats the cheapest way to rivet a master link? Will just hitting it with a hammer work? this is by far the cheapest method I have seen that I would mildly trust. http://www.kawiforums.com/how-tos-faqs/121549-diy-chain-rivet-tool.html
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Oct 24, 2009 05:32
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I saw that and went to the Home Depot and the pipe flarer was $25 it self. C'mon guys, what would MacGyver do?
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Oct 24, 2009 06:05
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:I saw that and went to the Home Depot and the pipe flarer was $25 it self. C'mon guys, what would MacGyver do? MacGuyver would go to Harbor Freight and buy this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66488 I have the same one, and just used it to put a chain on the Bandit. It comes with a second pin, so if you take that one and grind the tip to a conical shape, you have an instant riveter and breaker in one. Its well made too, but for $12 if you break it, its no biggie.
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Oct 24, 2009 06:24
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Thats the kind of pricing I'm looking for, Thank You! Hopefully the new master link will cure the binding issue I was having.
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Oct 24, 2009 06:38
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Bear in mind that if you use it as a riveter you will need to block the hole somehow on the non-screw end. You'll know what I mean when you see it. If you make the spare pin conical and use it as is, it will push the rivet back out of the chain, so you'll have to block it somehow. Stick a quarter or some other small piece of metal in between the back of the breaker and the chain, to keep it from pushing the rivet back out. Other than that it will work great as a riveter and breaker.
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Oct 24, 2009 07:02
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What would be the best way to check (and fix) a sticky throttle? I'm new to this whole "engine" thing they've decided to attach to my beloved two wheelers, and if I can fix my bike idling at 4000k, in 4th, going uphill at 40mph without having to drill out the carbs and gently caress around with the needles I'd be super happy. It responds ok to me messing with the idle air/fuel ratio knob while not moving, although doesn't sound happy under 2k or so. Bars also shake so much that I cant hold on to them when using significant engine braking, very hard to hold onto at higher rpms too, although that might have something to do with the fork leaking oil. For reference, I own a 1982 KZ750 CSR, which has around 120,000 miles on it. Runs fine somehow except the aforementioned issue and some leaks (oil, fork, airbox seal to left side of carb). I've already cleaned the carbs (had a friend help seem to be nice and clean now), put new gas (93 octane to try and get the idle down) and oil in, cleaned out the airbox, changed everything but the pistons on the front brakes (rear is fine), replaced the clutch cable, tires, chain. Oh and new battery. Which has already died on me once (yay for old electric starters). Really don't want to take a drill to the carb and gently caress with the needles, I'll probably gently caress something up and shop's already going to take all my money when the fix my fork.
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Oct 24, 2009 09:56
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oneoldman posted:What would be the best way to check (and fix) a sticky throttle? I'd start with lubing the cable.
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Oct 24, 2009 18:17
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Doctor Zero posted:I'd start with lubing the cable. Don't be so loving boring. oneoldman posted:What would be the best way to check (and fix) a sticky throttle? Recharge your battery and report back.
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Oct 24, 2009 19:00
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Are there any recommended Honda forums? I really really want to pick up a CL72 Scrambler or Dream, etc and restore it while I'm waiting for spring to arrive to get my MSF course done with and such.
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Oct 24, 2009 19:01
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Hypnolobster posted:Are there any recommended Honda forums? Why do you think any other forum would give better advise than AI/CA?
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Oct 24, 2009 19:29
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I was browsing my local craigslist and I came across a couple of bikes that I really liked the look of. Let me start off by saying that I am a total bike noob. I was interested in something non-sports bike and kinda old when I came across what was labeled as a "rat bike". These seem to be built of of older Japanese bikes. I have seen a couple of them built off of Viragos. Basically I am looking for any online resources on how to build one myself and what kind of parts would be needed to get this look. I found this website http://www.ratbike.org/ but it looks more like people just trying to mad max their bikes. I don't know maybe I have the picture of what I want in my head but I am calling it by the wrong name? Death of Chivalry fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Oct 24, 2009 |
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Oct 24, 2009 19:46
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Death of Chivalry posted:I was browsing my local craigslist and I came across a couple of bikes that I really liked the look of. Let me start off by saying that I am a total bike noob. I was interested in something non-sports bike and kinda old when I came across what was labeled as a "rat bike". You must be, that's what a rat bike is. A rat bike is pretty much the motorcycle equivalent of a rat rod - throw pretty much whatever parts you can into a working machine. The uglier the better. Perhaps you want to have a bobber?
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Oct 24, 2009 19:49
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Phat_Albert posted:The headpipe and midpipe should be able to be cleaned up with some steel wool, if its just a few small spots. If its a lot of surface rust, sandblast it. Many cities have self-spray sandblasting shops, where you bring your part in, and blast it yourself for a per-minute fee. If you cant find one of those, find a body shop or mechanic that has a blaster and have them do it for you. Then repaint the can and midpipe with high temp paint. If you want to go black, get Harley Davidson brand high-temp (seriously). Its expensive, but its the best high-temp I've ever used, and I've tried them all. That indeed covers it all. Thanks so much!
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Oct 24, 2009 20:02
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Doctor Zero posted:I'd start with lubing the cable. Oh, no I get that, I just don't know if there's anything I need to be aware of while doing so (I know not to pull on it by accident so as not to flood the engine, for example).
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Oct 24, 2009 20:16
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Doctor Zero posted:You must be, that's what a rat bike is. A rat bike is pretty much the motorcycle equivalent of a rat rod - throw pretty much whatever parts you can into a working machine. The uglier the better. It looks like the bikes were bobbers after all but at rat bike prices? When I search up bobbers I keep finding Harleys with huge motors that are way out of my price range. Oh well! Thanks for the info!
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Oct 24, 2009 20:58
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oneoldman posted:Oh, no I get that, I just don't know if there's anything I need to be aware of while doing so (I know not to pull on it by accident so as not to flood the engine, for example). OK, I'll play along. What bike do you sport, Oneoldman?
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Oct 25, 2009 13:23
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I think I'm going to put heat wrap on my pipe. I've seen it on the wrenchmonkees bikes, and I think it'd look badass on my Tengai, seen as I have to get the exhaust off to get the rust off of it and paint it anyway. Anyone got experience with it?
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Oct 25, 2009 17:01
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Death of Chivalry posted:It looks like the bikes were bobbers after all but at rat bike prices? When I search up bobbers I keep finding Harleys with huge motors that are way out of my price range. Oh well! Thanks for the info! You can always purchase a (used, cheap, old) cruiser from Suzuki or Kawasaki or what ever and turn it into a bobber. V-star 650 and I think the vulcan 900 and 500 are good project bikes if you can find them used. I like Harley motorcycles, but I'd only look at one of those when I know what I'm doing with a motorcycle. Forget suckerpunch sally's and the other special bobber manufactures as their custom bikes are going to make it look expensive.
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Oct 25, 2009 18:31
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niethan posted:I think I'm going to put heat wrap on my pipe. I've seen it on the wrenchmonkees bikes, and I think it'd look badass on my Tengai, seen as I have to get the exhaust off to get the rust off of it and paint it anyway. Anyone got experience with it? I have a whole roll that I was planning on putting on my SV's exhaust (mostly to cover up the ugly brown/red that the SS header and pipe oxidize to) but I've been hesitant after reading some stuff about the wrap causing problems, even with stainless steel pipes. I might go through with it this winter though. Have you heard anything along those lines?
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Oct 26, 2009 00:24
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TheUltimateCool posted:I have a whole roll that I was planning on putting on my SV's exhaust (mostly to cover up the ugly brown/red that the SS header and pipe oxidize to) but I've been hesitant after reading some stuff about the wrap causing problems, even with stainless steel pipes. I might go through with it this winter though. Have you heard anything along those lines? I've read some of the horror stories about heat-wrap causing the pipes to degrade. The logic tends to be that the wrap keeps the pipe hotter which puts more wear on the metal. So far as I can tell heat-wrap will cause the pipes to degrade faster than they would otherwise, but it's an issue of lasting many decades vs. lasting many, many decades. If you like the look I say go for it.
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Oct 26, 2009 00:42
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I wrapped a set of headers I had on my Scirocco mostly to try and save my steering rack boots from cooking. I put at least 80K on that set and they never degraded to my knowledge. When I did a motor swap later, I unwrapped them and they looked rusty but fine. I'm guessing unless the headers are paper thin you should be ok though I won't swear to it.
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Oct 26, 2009 01:16
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Death of Chivalry posted:It looks like the bikes were bobbers after all but at rat bike prices? When I search up bobbers I keep finding Harleys with huge motors that are way out of my price range. Oh well! Thanks for the info! Ah I see what you're saying. Yeah, buying a bobber is going to be on the expensive side (but check out Victory too). If you want a cheap one, you're going to end up doing it yourself out of an old bike.
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Oct 26, 2009 01:37
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I'm not a chopper/bobber guy myself, but I've seen some really well done Yamaha XS650s. They seem to take really well to that style.
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Oct 26, 2009 02:10
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Honda is evil I have been trying to get the fairings off my CBR600 and have hit a spot where I can't continue very early on. I have removed the belly pan (easy to do, probably made easy for the oil changes). I have no idea how to get the mids off, even following what's in the owners manual. It's like some type of lament configuration for fairings  They're very nice fairings, almost too nice. It's like one impossible interlocking puzzle.
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Oct 26, 2009 02:10
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lancemantis posted:Honda is evil What year CBR600? I've removed most of those at one point or another, and what part isn't separating where? Sometimes bolts or screws are located in random spots, and the best way to tell is to tug gently on the fairing to figure out where there's still something securing the fairing to the bike. Sometimes they use those push through clips, sometimes they use a plastic plug that fits in a rubber retainer, sometimes they use bolts in the most random places.
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Oct 26, 2009 03:03
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Oh, I finally figured it out, it was just attached in a way other than I was expecting (with some tabs going into the tank cover, then all the way to the nose). They were nice enough to color code the turn signal clips, no mix ups  They have so many nice little fairing connector doo-dads that aren't as cheap as what I'm used to. They have very nice little popper things in spots that don't hurt to take out and don't break if you look at them wrong. Instead of the flat blade screwdriver type of those pull out hole clip things they have very nice phillips head ones that screw out and then you give them a little tug and they come right off 
Arcteryx Anarchist fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Oct 26, 2009 |
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Oct 26, 2009 03:05
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 13:19 |
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Anyone ever look at the Vision X LED light pods? http://www.visionxoffroad.com/led/s1100/ ~119 a light, bright as gently caress, etc. Someone installing them on their BMW http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481009 Basically decent AUX lights, brighter than most fogs, good light patterns, very rugged. I am thinking about getting one or two for my SV, probably a left/right light pattern to get the sides of the road if needed, and something to fall back on in the even my main headlight fails during a trip. Could also be used as DRLs to increase visibility.
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Oct 26, 2009 06:26
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