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Does anyone else have intermittent gear grinding issues between second and third? I know it happens more on quicker shifts for me. However, the clutch is fully depressed, and it is really annoying. Not to mention embarrassing.
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Oct 20, 2009 05:07
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Tremek posted:I didn't realize you had also made an (evil) conversion. I miss some things about the MS3 but the GXP is an entirely different, more sinister beast that I can love as much if not more. Only 800 miles so far but the LS3 snarl above 4k is just as intoxicating as 3-5k was in the MS3. I didn't realize you got the GXP. This is the part where I say "gently caress you." (I really do love my GT though) I'll be honest, I'm pretty sure the MS6 with downpipe/intake/Accessport was quicker than my G8. Quick isn't everything though, especially when you've got a family and have to haul a bunch of poo poo around. The 6 just wasn't big enough anymore. About the gear grinding, there were times I could never go from first to second smoothly. It wasn't a loud grind, it was more just a rough engagement. It wouldn't do it all the time though, and it didn't matter if the transmission was warmed up or not. Just one of those things I learned to deal with.
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Oct 20, 2009 14:35
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Animedork2075 posted:Does anyone else have intermittent gear grinding issues between second and third? I know it happens more on quicker shifts for me. However, the clutch is fully depressed, and it is really annoying. Not to mention embarrassing. I've done it once or twice, but it was a really sloppy shift and totally my fault.
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Oct 20, 2009 16:37
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trouser chili posted:No, they can't. We had actually settled on getting one before my sister-in-law told my wife she was getting rid of their Honday Odessey and we could have it on the cheap. I really liked that the Mazda5 had an available manual transmission (though the wife was a little less excited-she still can't drive my Protege5) and the test drive left me about as happy as I could expect from a minivan. I can't even imagine road trips without the room we have in the Odessey now. Thankfully, now that I'm getting out of the Navy, we should be making far fewer trips back home to visit family. The Mazda5 reminds me a great deal of our Honda. It's not quite as tall as a full-on minivan, but it has similar cargo/passenger-carrying capacity. It also seems to perform a bit better than more typical minivans like the Town&Country et al. Right now, we've discussed it, and with income uncertain, we're going to stick with what we've got. (Maybe that means I have time to find an '09 MS3 because I haven't heard much to reccommend the '10 model.)
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Oct 21, 2009 18:42
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Kynetx posted:I've done it once or twice, but it was a really sloppy shift and totally my fault. I remember grinding between first and second, but the worst was that during fast shifts from 2nd to 3rd I seemed prone to hitting the detent between first and third... Which makes you look pretty awesome when you're trying to go fast and bounce off the rev limiter. (haven't experienced anything like this in the new car)
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Oct 21, 2009 21:45
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Anyone ever heard of anything like this? '07 M3 hatch - I start the car and being moving forward, and when I hit about 6 mph I get a loud clunk. If I stop and move again back up to 6 mph it won't do it again. If I stop, shut the car off, start it again and hit 6 mph it'll make the sound. 
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Oct 22, 2009 01:18
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Are there any Mazdaspeed3 forums that don't suck?
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Oct 23, 2009 20:51
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Buckeye posted:Are there any Mazdaspeed3 forums that don't suck? I don't think they're too bad, but I don't venture into the main forums. I look for the info I want or post a question and pretty much ignore everything else.
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Oct 24, 2009 01:35
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Buckeye posted:Are there any Mazdaspeed3 forums that don't suck? I never found any that were worth a poo poo. It's all annoying anywhere you go it seems. Not to be bleak or anything.
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Oct 24, 2009 01:48
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Finally going to go steelies -- 16" off of Tirerack seems to be the best and avoids having to pay blingtax on 18" tires in the future. They're selling 16x6.5s for $55 which seems to be a decent enough deal considering they'll mount and balance them at tirerack.
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Oct 24, 2009 18:14
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Animedork2075 posted:Does anyone else have intermittent gear grinding issues between second and third? I know it happens more on quicker shifts for me. However, the clutch is fully depressed, and it is really annoying. Not to mention embarrassing. I've had similar problems from first to second, but I'm in an '03 Protege5. It usually happens when I shift at higher RPMs.
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Oct 24, 2009 18:49
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Syd posted:Finally going to go steelies -- 16" off of Tirerack seems to be the best and avoids having to pay blingtax on 18" tires in the future. They're selling 16x6.5s for $55 which seems to be a decent enough deal considering they'll mount and balance them at tirerack. Which tires are you using? I want to go to 16s when I finish turning the RE50s to slicks.
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Oct 24, 2009 19:09
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Syd posted:Finally going to go steelies -- 16" off of Tirerack seems to be the best and avoids having to pay blingtax on 18" tires in the future. They're selling 16x6.5s for $55 which seems to be a decent enough deal considering they'll mount and balance them at tirerack. I bought a set of 16" steelies from a mazda 6 off craigslist for $50 total. You might try getting a used set for cheaper.
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Oct 24, 2009 22:22
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Tremek posted:I remember grinding between first and second, but the worst was that during fast shifts from 2nd to 3rd I seemed prone to hitting the detent between first and third I do this all the time.
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Oct 25, 2009 00:05
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I thought 16's caused clearance problems on the front brakes? I'm all for avoiding the tax on the 18" tires but I've honestly grown rather used to how the wheels look. There are some OEM Mazda 17" alloys I could live with, though...NC wheels are compatible, right?
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Oct 25, 2009 00:34
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I think the RX8 stock alloys are a popular route to go.
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Oct 25, 2009 00:41
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On another note, it sounds like one set of pads has hit the squealers - probably my fronts. I just passed 38k, what kind of mileage are you guys getting out of your brakes, and what options are there for pads? I don't want to give up any of the stock performance but honestly if I could find something that dusts less than OEM without giving up braking performance, I'll be all over it. Edit: I'm seeing a lot of good reviews on the Hawk Ceramics. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 25, 2009 |
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Oct 25, 2009 07:35
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What kind of MPG are you MS3 guys getting? It's probably 60/40 Hwy/City and I'm getting around 20-22mpg. I even tried to drive pretty conservatively for this tank.
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Oct 25, 2009 17:08
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I haven't run the numbers in a while but I've been averaging around 24MPG or so - but this is with a commute that is literally 95% freeway, most of which is cruising at speed instead of bumper-to-bumper. It's also a long commute so I don't have many of those <5 minute drives that slaughter gas mileage.
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Oct 25, 2009 17:15
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24 mixed. On road trips I get 30-33.
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Oct 25, 2009 17:34
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Running about 85/15 hwy/city I get around 21-24 mpg. Running Pennzoil Platinum full synth. and completely stock.
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Oct 26, 2009 04:43
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Thanks for the replies. It happens to me randomly. It doesn't make a difference if it's fast or slow shifting, it just does it. At least I still have my drive warranty. I am about to lose the bumper to bumper though 28K  . If it keeps happening, I will ask the dealership about it. It's strange though. Nobody else has had this problem. I can't imagine I am doing anything different. Can't rule out the possibility that it is me though.
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Oct 26, 2009 05:38
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the amber trap posted:I want to join in here, but I'm not driving a Mazdaspeed anything. I am ashamed.
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Oct 26, 2009 12:14
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), and I've actually learned quite a bit from you all.
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CharlesM posted:I wouldn't really bother with the Mazdaspeed engine and turbo, they're not that great in my opinion. What tires do you have? I had heard good things about that turbo setup, though it was mainly the fact that it supposedly had minimal to nonexistant lag. That could easily mean the turbo isn't really doing much. What would you suggest for a bit more horsepower? I've gathered by lurking in AI that cold air intakes and their ilk aren't really good for anything. I'm ashamed to admit that I can't remember what kind of Toyo tires I'm using. It was a bitch to find somewhere that had tires that size in stock after the sidewall of my front driver-side tire disintegrated on the highway. Of course, once I got there they had ordered the wrong tires, so I had to wait anyway. I'm getting sidetracked. If was at home now, instead of floating aimlessly in the Caribbean, I'd be able to find out. Is there a brand/style you'd recommend? I'm actually due for a new set (treads are decent, but the corners are pretty worn,) but I've been putting it off.
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Oct 26, 2009 13:35
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IOwnCalculus posted:On another note, it sounds like one set of pads has hit the squealers - probably my fronts. I just passed 38k, what kind of mileage are you guys getting out of your brakes, and what options are there for pads? I don't want to give up any of the stock performance but honestly if I could find something that dusts less than OEM without giving up braking performance, I'll be all over it. I'm still on the original pads @ 50k miles with no squeals or anything. If you do go with the Hawks, let me know your thoughts on them though  Bovine Delight posted:What kind of MPG are you MS3 guys getting? It's probably 60/40 Hwy/City and I'm getting around 20-22mpg. I even tried to drive pretty conservatively for this tank. I've found that I usually get 23-24mpg no matter how conservatively I drive (not very).
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Oct 26, 2009 14:20
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I've been pretty much dead on 23.7 mpg since I got the car.
lmnt fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Oct 28, 2009 |
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Oct 27, 2009 12:52
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Animedork2075 posted:Frosty, did you ever check the spring issue I suggested?
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Nov 24, 2009 01:21
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This is a stupid question. How does one run the engine with the doors locked without being inside of the car on a Mazdaspeed 3? As in I'm warming up my car unattended and would like the doors locked. The lock remote doesn't lock when the engine is running. Manually locking the doors with the door open and the engine running causes it to automatically unlock. Is there some trick to this? All I've come up with is roll down a window... which defeats the purpose of both securing the vehicle and warming it up.
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Nov 24, 2009 02:25
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The dealership says my car's rear swaybar is cracking, and my car's just over 49,000 miles. It's covered under warranty, thankfully. Should I be concerned? Does this mean the car was abused by the PO?
Dick Burglar fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Nov 24, 2009 |
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Nov 24, 2009 03:25
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FortifiedTumor posted:The lock remote doesn't lock when the engine is running. Manually locking the doors with the door open and the engine running causes it to automatically unlock. Is there some trick to this? All I've come up with is roll down a window... which defeats the purpose of both securing the vehicle and warming it up. Can you lock it with a second key after you get out and close the door? Re cracking swaybar - I doubt that's actually any sign of abuse, probably just a random failure. Be glad it happened before you hit 60k.
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Nov 24, 2009 07:41
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CombatWombat posted:The dealership says my car's rear swaybar is cracking, and my car's just over 49,000 miles. It's covered under warranty, thankfully. Should I be concerned? Does this mean the car was abused by the PO? Wonder if that has anything to do with the nuts coming loose on those...I would doubt it though since it wouldn't really be doing anything or under any load anymore, but that's a common thing I remember reading when I had a MS3.
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Nov 25, 2009 01:37
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Well the dealership is taking care of it under warranty and the technician didn't seem alarmed about it or anything so I dunno. Also they're doing something with the engine, something about the ignition coil, I think? Normally I would know what it was but the tech just rattled it off once and said they'd take care of it. I didn't really catch what he actually said. But hey, my car should be done tomorrow and it should be all good again so yay!
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Nov 25, 2009 05:44
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CombatWombat posted:Well the dealership is taking care of it under warranty and the technician didn't seem alarmed about it or anything so I dunno. Also they're doing something with the engine, something about the ignition coil, I think? The engine mount?
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Nov 25, 2009 05:58
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I ordered the Cobb filter cleaning kit finally, and I'm trying to clean and re-oil this dumb thing. Somehow I got it in my head that the maintenance interval on this was 15,000 miles. Ooops. On the bright side, there was very little sand jammed into it, and no dust or anything on the inside of the MAF housing, so I guess it was still working just fine and also hadn't been subjected to any especially harsh conditions ever. It's almost dry, I think. I'm spinning and shaking it and no more water is coming out. I wish I had a compressor so I could just blow it dry quickly. Anyway, when it comes time to re-oil it, how do I know when enough is enough? I don't want to under-do it, but the instructions don't really give me any means of gauging what's sufficient. I certainly don't want to over-oil it and have to start all over, or gently caress up my MAF. [Edit] Oh, I get it. It's dyed so I don't have ask this question in the first place. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Nov 25, 2009 |
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Nov 25, 2009 20:22
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Figure I might as well post what Blackstone came back with on my used oil analysis. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, ran it for just under 4500 miles, 07 MS3.Blackstone posted:No problems showed up in the initial sample from the 2.3L engine in your Mazda. All wear read or below average for this type of engine, which is a good indication of normal wearing parts. Universal averages show typical wear levels after about ~5,000 miles oil use. The viscosity was light for a 5W/30, though this wasn't due to any significant fuel dilution, so it's not really a concern, especially since wear looks fine. No coolant was found. The TBN read 3.7, showing lots of active additive left. A reading of 1.0 or lower is too low. Try going to 7,000 miles next time. Fuel dilution was listed as less than 0.5%. Happy with the oil and the Mazda OEM filters!
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Nov 25, 2009 21:07
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That's good to see. I was figuring that the super-rich cold-start routine the computer uses to heat the engine up as fast as possible would result in some fuel washing past the rings, glad this isn't the case.
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Nov 25, 2009 21:20
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A lot of the jerks at the various Mazda forums have been parroting that fuel dilution is a huge problem and that these engines are super-rough on oil, but I guess that's just them desperately searching for absolution when their mistreated car starts running poorly. I've just been having the dealership do the generic service every 5,000 miles simply because it costs next to nothing and I get that nice receipt that I can put in a file cabinet and feel good about. Obviously, the oil is probably different and mine being a MS6 with a Cobb OTS tune isn't really the same as a 2007 MS3, but what you posted is heartening. I've been feeling a little guilty because of all the  about oil and these engines, and my oil gets pretty black and smells a little fuely near the end there.If I hand the guys at the dealership one of these test kits do you think they'd look at me funny? I'm trying to think of a way I could grab a few ounces of oil without draining it all and changing it myself. I'm really lazy and, ergh, I don't wanna.
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Nov 25, 2009 21:36
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Kynetx posted:That's good to see. I was figuring that the super-rich cold-start routine the computer uses to heat the engine up as fast as possible would result in some fuel washing past the rings, glad this isn't the case. Well, to be fair my driving habits may have something to do with it - the vast majority of my driving is my 25-mile one-way commute. Frosty- posted:If I hand the guys at the dealership one of these test kits do you think they'd look at me funny? I'm trying to think of a way I could grab a few ounces of oil without draining it all and changing it myself. I'm really lazy and, ergh, I don't wanna. If your dealership isn't staffed by assholes, I don't see why they would have an issue with it. Just make sure you have them get some oil from the middle of the drain - you don't want either the first stuff out of the pan, or the last. Also, at 4500 miles my oil was looking damned black as well. On a purely visual basis I would have figured it to be far worse than it actually was. I will probably need to add a little makeup oil to make a 7000 mile interval, I was about half a quart low over the course of 4500 miles. Speaking of dealers, I need to call mine again. Apparently Hertz thinks they didn't get paid for the Mazda5 rental I had in June while the MS3 was getting the rear wiring harness fixed under warranty, and they billed my card for it. Lame.
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Nov 25, 2009 22:59
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I wanna play too. I just got my first UOA back in email this morning. When I took the sample, I had 11,8xx on the odometer and had run oci at 1k miles, 4k, 7k and then timing wasn't good and slipped from every 3k to 4,3xx miles. At 7k, I switched from conventional to Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. This is what I got: Blackstone Labs posted:Yes indeed, we do have good news for you. This engine appears to be breaking-in normally at 11,818 miles. Copper, from brass and bronze parts, is the only metal that's lingering from wear-in of new parts. Sometimes it takes copper a long time (up to 40,000 miles) to settle down to average levels. Everything else is already normal. The rings (chrome) appear to have seated correctly and iron, from steel parts, was normal. Universal averages show typical wear for this type of engine after about 4200 miles on the oil. This is going to be a nice engine for you. Copper is at 53, average being 19, but he stated that. Fuel was less than .5. Anyone know what the SUS and cSt viscosity means? They were 55.9 and 9.03 respectively.
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Nov 26, 2009 05:05
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Frosty- posted:A lot of the jerks at the various Mazda forums have been parroting that fuel dilution is a huge problem and that these engines are super-rough on oil, but I guess that's just them desperately searching for absolution when their mistreated car starts running poorly eh, my UOA came back with pretty nasty fuel dilution
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Nov 26, 2009 07:04
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