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Blaster of Justice posted:OK, I'll play along. What bike do you sport, Oneoldman? Its a 1982 KZ750 CSR.
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Oct 26, 2009 14:13
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This is something I've been thinking about for a bit now, but maybe it deserves its own thread. It's come up in the almost crash thread, I've read about several local riders who were killed doing this in Wisconsin, and it was something that came to mind when Nero mentioned a curvy street (one of the few) local to him when I came to get the pig for the relay. I really do not understand the appeal of fast street riding, railin' da twistiez, whatever. It seems to me that you could be a MotoGP racer, and if you come around a tight turn and there's a car on the wrong side, you are a bug on their windshield. How is that fun? You have no control whatsoever about that. I am planning on starting on the track next year, which I do understand the appeal of. That seems a much safer environment for pushing your riding skills.
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Oct 26, 2009 15:54
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MrKatharsis posted:Geico wanted $3000 a year from me when I got my sportbike. The next worst estimate was $2200, and I ended up paying $800. The whole insurance thing is massively screwy. I ended up with progressive a few years ago on my CB750. They were BY FAR the cheapest. State Farm wanted to completely rape me, AmFam wasn't much better, and Geico was fairly close to progressive but they still had them beat. When I picked up my 1125 two weekends ago I didn't really shop around, I just wanted to get covered so I could go ride. I ended up with very low limits (50/100k) and extremely high deductables on comp and it was around 570/yr. When I finally had some time to check around I was completely floored by what I found. With the same limits and dropping down to a 250 deductable on comp AND collision Geico was around 530/yr. I immediately called progressive to see if they could match it -- they could not. For the same coverage I was quoted through Geico Progressive wanted over 1400/yr  Out of curiosity I called state farm. With the same limits I have on my car, 250/500k un/under and bodily injury, and 250 deductables they were $320 per year!!! It was 12 bucks more to drop comp down to a 100 deductable so I went with that. This huge differential is pretty goddamn flabbergasting. I guess I don't care though, I have great coverage and am paying over 200 less than I was originally going to do. The only downside to State Farm is their insurance doesn't cover much gear -- basically only your helmet. I need to contact my agent again to see if there's some additional coverage I can get to have the rest of my gear covered. Long post short: CHECK EVERYONE. You may be surprised with what you find.
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Oct 26, 2009 16:41
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Oakey posted:This is something I've been thinking about for a bit now, but maybe it deserves its own thread. It's come up in the almost crash thread, I've read about several local riders who were killed doing this in Wisconsin, and it was something that came to mind when Nero mentioned a curvy street (one of the few) local to him when I came to get the pig for the relay. The track is great, but it is also expensive as hell. A trackday will easily run you 100-300$ in entry fees, plus you tear up tires a lot faster on the really abrasive surface, you get limited time, you have to get to and from the track somehow, etc. People seem to have difficulty understanding that street riding and track riding use 2 completely different skillsets...they're similar in that in both cases you lean a motorcycle to go around corners, but in terms of the way that you approach the corner, they are very different. If street riders can accept and understand that street riding is about riding the compromise of speed and safety, then you can have a great time on the street, going faster in the faster places and slower in the slower places. In my book, street riding isn't about pushing your limits, it's about having fun. Track riding is where the limits are pushed. Of course, I say this knowing that as a newer rider, I spent a lot of time pushing my limits on the street. It was only after a fair bit of track riding, where I started to go faster on the track than could be conceivable on the street, that I started to understand the differences in what you should be trying to get out of each area of riding. I can have quite a bit of fun at a 60-80% pace of my maximum comfort level. That's the pace I run on the street, where the overall limits are lower, and that's also the pace I'll run at the track when I'm on a friend's bike.
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Oct 26, 2009 17:26
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Oakey posted:This is something I've been thinking about for a bit now, but maybe it deserves its own thread. It's come up in the almost crash thread, I've read about several local riders who were killed doing this in Wisconsin, and it was something that came to mind when Nero mentioned a curvy street (one of the few) local to him when I came to get the pig for the relay. I'm not understanding the point you're trying to make. Is it "What's the appeal of going way to fast on the street?" or is it "What happens if a stupid car crosses over into your lane?" Cause the latter is a problem no matter how fast you're going. I mean sure, if you aren't driving like an idiot you have more time to react. If it's the former then, it's just that throwing a bike through twisties really is a fuckton of fun. If you're going to ride at an unsafe speed, then you should understand that you're putting yourself and others at risk. Unfortunately a lot of people don't understand this.
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Oct 26, 2009 18:13
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Well I found a Virago locally for $1100. It is all done up nicely (will try to find the pics but they on my home computer) It is super sweet looking and I am totally in love with the bike. It is in flat black, has that really flat low seat, bobbed rear fender, its just the sexiest bike I ever saw. Here are the problems though... 1. It has new handlebars on it (which look super sweet) but the clutch cable is now too long. The guy will give me the old handlebars though and the clutch "should" work fine. 2. Dead battery. When I go to look at the bike, the guy says he will have the battery charged so he can start the bike up for me. Is there anything I should look for and does this sound like a bad deal? I'm pretty sure you guys are going to need pics to decide though...
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Oct 26, 2009 18:18
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Death of Chivalry posted:Well I found a Virago locally for $1100. It is all done up nicely (will try to find the pics but they on my home computer) It is super sweet looking and I am totally in love with the bike. It is in flat black, has that really flat low seat, bobbed rear fender, its just the sexiest bike I ever saw. For that price it better look like a million bux. Clutch problems are easy, but custom cables are a pain in the rear end to get and cost between 35-50 bux. A battery is 100 dollars and should be knocked off the price. I wouldn't pay more than 700 dollars unless I was SURE the problems listed are the actual problems and the only problems IF it looks BEAUTIFUL.
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Oct 26, 2009 18:37
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Death of Chivalry posted:Well I found a Virago locally for $1100. It is all done up nicely (will try to find the pics but they on my home computer) It is super sweet looking and I am totally in love with the bike. It is in flat black, has that really flat low seat, bobbed rear fender, its just the sexiest bike I ever saw. VTNewb's got the long and short of it, but why doesn't the clutch work with the longer cable? The length of the cable should have no effect on the clutch.
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Oct 26, 2009 18:43
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This is a response to both of you, if it's really that much fun I guess I can see that. I have predicted and avoided enough accidents, and seen enough stupid drivers, that I think being worried about that would suck all of the fun out of riding a more interesting road for me. Maybe it has to do with what you get used to, but by now I am used to being able to see what's coming at me the vast majority of the time, and in traffic I work at avoiding situations where I can't see cars coming from the side, making turns in front of me, etc. How did you get used to that? Is it just accepting 'Oh well, someone does that and I am screwed' since there's no way to react if a car is in the wrong lane and you're coming around a blind turn?
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Oct 26, 2009 18:52
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Does anyone else feel like the MSF course is way too easy? The test, mainly... Some of the people in my class should NOT have passed, the way they swerve and did their u-turns was just... Really bad. I'm not even sure I have passed, I definitely didn't demonstrate the skills at a high enough speed. I really wish they forced you to practice each skill 100 times and make the class several weekends, I'd pay for it.
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Oct 26, 2009 19:11
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soy posted:Does anyone else feel like the MSF course is way too easy? The test, mainly... Some of the people in my class should NOT have passed, the way they swerve and did their u-turns was just... Really bad. I'd hate to see the US automotive testing system become like Europe. The tests were enough to simply get on the road and drive 10mph below the speed limit and practice on your own.
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Oct 26, 2009 19:12
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Oakey posted:This is a response to both of you, if it's really that much fun I guess I can see that. I have predicted and avoided enough accidents, and seen enough stupid drivers, that I think being worried about that would suck all of the fun out of riding a more interesting road for me. What you're talking about is actually a good thing, and a skill that a lot of motorcyclists don't develop for a long time, namely: Learning to go fast in the fast sections and slow in the slow sections. You're not comfortable going fast because you're not in a place where you should be going fast. This is why places like Deals Gap and other isolated highways are so popular...there are no cross streets, traffic tends towards 2 lanes (one each way) with good visibility through the corners, plus a bunch of corners. As to the coming around a corner and finding a car in your lane, I've had that happen a few times. The key to avoiding it is staying within your skill limit, so that you're prepared to compensate for all the other idiots out there. If you're hauling rear end peg dragging around a corner and a car shows up on your line and you have to lean more to avoid it, you are hosed. If you come through a corner going fast but you still have a healthy reserve, when that car comes around the corner, you lean a little harder, push a little closer to the limit, and avoid the car. There's a road called 236 in Santa Cruz that runs through Big Basin. For the most part, it's got no center lane, is roughly a car and a half wide, and I absolutely loved it on my 929. I had a few encounters with cars going straight up the middle and the thing that kept me safe were a couple of techniques. First: Maximize your sightlines. That means no turning in early, ever, especially in left hand corners. You stay wide and away from the DY in left handers, and hug up against the right side of the corner in rights. Staying as far from the DY maximizes your safety cushion. Second: Always be prepared to stand it up or turn it tighter if someone or something is in your lane or on your line. Keeping those 2 things in mind helped me avoid a number of head on accidents with SUVs driven by crazed retards. Once I was setting up for a left hander at the far right side of the road, and someone tore rear end around the (blind) corner and the only reason I didn't go head on with them is because I was already on the outside line. With a combined closing speed of around 50mph and under 20 feet of visual distance, there would have been no way to react in time. soy posted:Does anyone else feel like the MSF course is way too easy? The test, mainly... Some of the people in my class should NOT have passed, the way they swerve and did their u-turns was just... Really bad. How do you define "really bad"? The most important thing to safe riding isn't your riding, it's your judgment. If you're relying on your skills to get you out of trouble, you will eventually get to the point where your skills cannot save you from the situation that you get into. If you have superior judgment, you can avoid those situations entirely. The most important thing that the MSF teaches isn't U-turns or swerves or anything else...it's SEE. You can train someone until they're astoundingly good riders, but if they don't have the judgment to make good decisions about where they use those skills, then they'll end up dead regardless. The worst thing I ever did for my personal safety was going to the track for the first time. I learned to ride fast, but it was only thanks to the older, more experienced friends that I also slowed down on the street as a result. Training teaches you how to ride, but judgment is was keeps you safe. Unfortunately, there's no good training on how to build someone's judgment, it's something that's almost entirely learned out in the real world. MSF starts people down that path, but doesn't have the time or ability to finish it, nor do I even know if it's really possible to get people to learn it any way but on their own. You can tell them how to approach a given situation, but helping them make that leap from how to approach a given situation to how to approach a more general situation is difficult at best. Z3n fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 26, 2009 |
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Oct 26, 2009 19:31
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Orange Someone posted:Hmm, now to work out which CB400 it is. None of those are late enough, and the closest is the CB400 CB-1, which was the previous model. Common enough problem, seeing as the bike is an import from Japan. We are in the UK, and that's a US website, but if I know what part I'm looking for, it's going to help loads.
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Oct 26, 2009 21:37
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Oakey posted:This is something I've been thinking about for a bit now, but maybe it deserves its own thread. It's come up in the almost crash thread, I've read about several local riders who were killed doing this in Wisconsin, and it was something that came to mind when Nero mentioned a curvy street (one of the few) local to him when I came to get the pig for the relay. I agree in principle, there are loads and loads of motorcycle riders who think the only fay to ride is as fast as possible on as few wheels as possible. I was at a BMW test ride day and a man in his mid 40s was talking about his recent trip to Europe. All he could talk about was how fast he had gone. When my turn on the R1200S was up, he sent me off with "ride fast". What a dick. Anyway, riding fast and pushing your skill are pretty big variables. On one of my favorite local routes I can get the good feeling of riding fast without breaking the speed limit, other places I can be 50% over the limit without the same amount of fun. As for pushing my skill, I still have a long way to go before I have some serious skill so it doesn't take that much to push it anyway. I've scraped a peg three or four times, all in places where I could see all the way through the corner. I don't really gun it in the straights much, that's no big deal anyway. Carving a perfect line is the mystical cliché I'm after and I need a bit of speed to make it feel all groovy and zen-like. But very rarely do I need to break the speed limit to feel that. Now for the hypocrisy bit: I break the speed limit pretty much every time I go ride. Sometimes, in those straights I rarely gun it in, I gun it and go fast enough to be sent to prison. I don't feel like I'm putting myself or anyone else at risk, but not many speeders do. Maybe some day I'll have to eat my words, either guilty of manslaughter or playing a sad song on my angel harp. Or both. I like to think I've gotten the most of my triple digit desires out of my system and I certainly don't speed with a passenger or in dense traffic. But hanging off the sides and tugging on the handlebars on a curvy, snaky piece of road ... never giving up that.
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Oct 26, 2009 22:32
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OrangeFurious posted:I've read some of the horror stories about heat-wrap causing the pipes to degrade. The logic tends to be that the wrap keeps the pipe hotter which puts more wear on the metal. I just bought a roll of black heat wrap cause I liked the look. Maybe not so great an idea for my bike now? I figure in LA, there isn't much rain or moisture to really worry about. Should be okay. Now I'm unsure.
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Oct 27, 2009 00:10
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ari.gato posted:I just bought a roll of black heat wrap cause I liked the look. Maybe not so great an idea for my bike now? I figure in LA, there isn't much rain or moisture to really worry about. Should be okay. Now I'm unsure. I wouldn't worry about it. And I cannot, for the life of me, give up street riding. I know it's more dangerous than racing, but I still can't help but love it.
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Oct 27, 2009 00:22
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Z3n posted:I wouldn't worry about it. Awesome. Also, if my chain seems a little loose, should I tighten up the adjusters on the swing arm, or buy a new chain? Sprocket seems great, no bent teeth or anything, but the chain feels kinda loose.
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Oct 27, 2009 00:32
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ari.gato posted:Awesome. Also, if my chain seems a little loose, should I tighten up the adjusters on the swing arm, or buy a new chain? Sprocket seems great, no bent teeth or anything, but the chain feels kinda loose. You're
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Oct 27, 2009 00:39
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Z3n posted:You're Awesome. Just checked it out and couldn't pull it off the sprocket at all. Looks like it's chain adjusting time tonight. WOoo
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Oct 27, 2009 00:51
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ari.gato posted:Awesome. Just checked it out and couldn't pull it off the sprocket at all. Looks like it's chain adjusting time tonight. WOoo Now is also a good time to clean it (if needed) and lube it.
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Oct 27, 2009 01:06
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Z3n posted:Now is also a good time to clean it (if needed) and lube it. Definitely doing that tonight as well. Doing the whole kit and caboodle over the next week. Just disassembled the front calipers and cleaned them in and out, bled the brakes, changed the pads, and cleaned the rotors yesterday. My bike will be transforming over the next week. 
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Oct 27, 2009 01:24
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Nerobro posted:You're not talking sense. Your crankcase most definitely does not need to come off. my apologies... i have a 1991 kawasaki zephyr 750 i dont mean i need to clean the cog, i meant the area around the cog because im assuming its dirty as poo poo in there. anyway for suspension work deos that mean new springs, new shocks entirely, or just changing rings and fluid? and how do i check if my brake fluid is savvy? do i just top it off or do i need a bleed kit? i dont know much history on the bike so i dont want to miss anything... also i opened my gas tank the other day and saw what i think was water droplets directly below the gas cap, and i couldnt tell but maybe a little rust... do i need a new gascap?
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Oct 27, 2009 06:04
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r!de the short bus posted:my apologies... i have a 1991 kawasaki zephyr 750 I'm restoring an old bike now too (she's finally road worthy, yay) and a great piece of advice that my mechanic friend gave me was to install a fuel filter (if you haven't already). They cost like $3 are inline so they're easy as hell to install and will help a lot especially if you have a rusty tank. If your tank is in really bad shape though, you might need to clean and re-liner it. The kit is ~$50 and is very easy to deal with. Takes like 2 days though.
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Oct 27, 2009 06:51
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r!de the short bus posted:and how do i check if my brake fluid is savvy? do i just top it off or do i need a bleed kit? oneoldman posted:I'm restoring an old bike now too (she's finally road worthy, yay) and a great piece of advice that my mechanic friend gave me was to install a fuel filter (if you haven't already). They cost like $3 are inline so they're easy as hell to install and will help a lot especially if you have a rusty tank. If your tank is in really bad shape though, you might need to clean and re-liner it. The kit is ~$50 and is very easy to deal with. Takes like 2 days though.
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Oct 27, 2009 13:21
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r!de the short bus posted:and how do i check if my brake fluid is savvy? do i just top it off or do i need a bleed kit? i dont know much history on the bike so i dont want to miss anything... also i opened my gas tank the other day and saw what i think was water droplets directly below the gas cap, and i couldnt tell but maybe a little rust... do i need a new gascap? Brake fluid should look like vegetable oil, not tea. If it looks like tea, you need to change it. The good news is that it's very easy to bleed the brakes on a bike.
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Oct 27, 2009 15:59
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ari.gato posted:I recently came into a V&H 4-into-1 exhaust system for my bike. It's got surface rust (but no rusted through spots), some scratches, and it's missing a couple of springs that connect the can to the midpipe. I would like to get the rust off, refinish it, paint the can a matte black, find a place to buy those springs, then wrap it in exhaust wrap. I'm not exactly sure what the process would be and I'd appreciate any help on the matter. In case someone else hasn't mentioned it already, please don't wrap your headers. they will rust out quicker. I recommend sending them to a ceramic coating specalist, like Jet-Hot - which will not only reject heat back into the exhaust stream, which means cooler temps under the cowl, it will protect the pipe against the elements. Jet-Hot does have a nice flat black or glossy coat. You're looking for exhaust retention springs, be advised there's also a hook-tool that you use to install them with. Motion Pro makes the tool, and a lot of dealership motorcycles/Cycle Gear sells them as well. Dealership/Cycle Gear on online Dennis Kirk may be able to hook you up with some spare springs, or calling up Vance and Hines direct may get you some spares.
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Oct 27, 2009 17:32
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R-Type II posted:In case someone else hasn't mentioned it already, please don't wrap your headers. they will rust out quicker. I recommend sending them to a ceramic coating specalist, like Jet-Hot - which will not only reject heat back into the exhaust stream, which means cooler temps under the cowl, it will protect the pipe against the elements. Jet-Hot does have a nice flat black or glossy coat. Thanks for the info. I've done some homework on the wrapping of pipes and honestly, I don't think it'll be a prob. It rains 2 days out of the year here in LA (not an exact figure)...maybe three. It's warm, dry and I ride year round. I'm not worried about moisture sinking into the wrap and degrading the pipes. Plus I just finished refurbishing the whole exhaust system (pics soon in my project thread). I sanded and polished the rust off, then used a rust cleaning solution, sand and steel wooled it again, then cleaned it, then high temp paint coated it. The can and the pipes look pretty brand new. I'm not wrapping them for the heat savings, more because I like the look. Weighing it all up, I don't think my pipes will be much worse for wear if I do. As for the retention springs, I actually just used a small piece of wood for a cantilever and a pair of pliers. Got them right off. I still need to buy 2 new ones for the midpipe to muffler connections tho. Calling up V&H directly is a good idea.
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Oct 27, 2009 19:55
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oneoldman posted:I'm restoring an old bike now too (she's finally road worthy, yay) and a great piece of advice that my mechanic friend gave me was to install a fuel filter (if you haven't already). They cost like $3 are inline so they're easy as hell to install and will help a lot especially if you have a rusty tank. If your tank is in really bad shape though, you might need to clean and re-liner it. The kit is ~$50 and is very easy to deal with. Takes like 2 days though. i figured the fuel filter was as important as and air filter or oil filter, so one was installed already. do you mean replace it, or is this part not factory? and the rust deosnt seem to gnarly, maybe eventually i will look for that kit!
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Oct 27, 2009 20:09
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I let my 1990 Radian sit for a couple months without starting or riding it, and now it runs pretty rough, whereas it used to run really smoothly. The carbs were cleaned and adjusted a year or so ago. Should I run some carb cleaner through it, or will it clear up on it's own if I open it up some?
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Oct 27, 2009 20:38
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How old is the petrol?
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Oct 27, 2009 20:39
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So I puttered around on my new to me 82 GS450L this weekend, and now I am putting together a list of things that need to be done, but since I don't have a feel for motorcycles well enough to be sure which one of multiple possible issues I am having, I'm hoping you guys can point me down the right path, so I don't just spend forever chasing down the wrong problems. 1. Almost no friction zone, clutch cable rubber housing/tubing is a little worn through at places, clutch is really heavy to pull, and kind of notchy while releasing. I'm thinking I'll pull the cable out to check for damage, lube if none is apparent, replace if any is found. Does it sound like just a cable, or more like an actual clutch problem to you guys? If it is an actual clutch problem, how hard are they to work on, looking around the internet, every article makes it look easy, but they're also written by actual mechanics. 2. Squeaky front brake. After a few times around the block, the front brake started squeaking like a bicycle does when a rim touches a brake for a split second. Squeaks getting closer upon acceleration. Since I have no experience with motorcycles, I'm pretty much up in the air here, obviously something is rubbing, no idea what is most likely. 3. Even after being given time to warm up with the choke on, it gets real low when idling, and often just konks out if I don't rev it a little occasionally. Throttle feels a bit loose as well, I can twist it a good bit before it starts to really feed the engine. Guy I bought it from mentioned syncing the carbs, would out of sync carbs be a likely culprit, and how hard is syncing them for someone brand new to motorcycle maintainance? Preferably, I'd like to do all of these and any other fixes myself, but I do have time constraints, since I can only access the bike and tools on weekends right now till I get it registered, plates for it, and find parking close to where I live. Could a newb hunker down all Saturday and Sunday and bang these kinks out, or am I gonna need to form a plan to get workspace and tools closer to where I live?
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Oct 27, 2009 21:25
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First of all...I'd just replace the clutch cable. It's easy to do and weird issues can happen the cables start binding up. The squeeky front brake is probably just the pad squeeking against the piston, but check the thickness on the pads (not the backing plate, but the actual pad itself), you may need new pads. It sounds like your carbs are either mildly clogged or in need of a sync. I'd run some seafoam through the tank and see if it clears up, otherwise it'd be time to make a carb sync tool and have a go at it. You could hunker down on saturday and sunday and easily take care of all of these things, although the carb sync would take the longest. Personally, I'd replace the clutch cable, and apply non-squeek to the back of the pads or replace them as needed, and run some seafoam through the tank and see if it'll pick up after that. Watommi, sounds like mildly clogged carbs there too. Give seafoam a shot and go from there. Flushing the gas is a good idea too, or if it's low, just filling it up with new gas is often enough to make it run decent.
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Oct 27, 2009 21:29
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PestiferousTrollop posted:So I puttered around on my new to me 82 GS450L this weekend, and now I am putting together a list of things that need to be done, but since I don't have a feel for motorcycles well enough to be sure which one of multiple possible issues I am having, I'm hoping you guys can point me down the right path, so I don't just spend forever chasing down the wrong problems. 1. Cable is the most likely culprit. Your plan is sound. 2. Could be a sticky caliper piston. Your pad is maybe not disengaging the whole way and rubbing against the disc. I'm thinking maybe you have a two piston system and one isn't disengaging. Try taking it apart and inspecting the pads and pistons. If the pistons in the caliper look all rusty and crappy you may have to get a caliper rebuild kit (or a new caliper). If you're lucky, it's just a little stuck, and you can put a chunk of wood and a C clamp on it and force the piston back in to unstick it. Well, I guess if you're really, really lucky, the PO didn't put the pads back on right, one is rubbing, and if you redo it, it will stop. 3. Try adjusting your idle (after the bike is warm!) and see if that helps.
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Oct 27, 2009 21:34
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Replace the clutch cable, it's not a bicycle, the cable can not be separated from the housing. It's $15. and you should keep a spare around. If the clutch is still funny after that, we can look at other culprits. Most likely, the piston in your brake caliper is sticking. First check to see how much pad you have left. If that looks ok, just ride it for a little while, It may go away. If it does not, check and make sure all the springs and anti rattle pads are in place on your brake caliper. Or... just replace the pad. Nothing you've mentioned indicates there's anything wrong with the carb sync. Unless someone messed with the sync, it's not likely the carb sync. Carbs don't "just go out of sync." Especially on broken in motors. You have slack in the throttle. there's an adjuster just under the right side control housing that will let you take up that slack. The low idle while warmed up could be that hte idle is set to low. (turn up the idle adjuster 1/2 turn after the motor is warm) or it could be a bad float valve. When the motor gets rich, the rpms drop and it will start to chug.
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Oct 27, 2009 22:03
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Thanks guys, feeling more confident I can have the bike running really well pretty soon now.Nerobro posted:Nothing you've mentioned indicates there's anything wrong with the carb sync. Unless someone messed with the sync, it's not likely the carb sync. Carbs don't "just go out of sync." Especially on broken in motors. My bad, I have no experience with carbs, so I assumed that being mechanical devices with higher tolerances, and plenty of the use under their belt, it was perfectly possible for them to just slowly work their way out of sync. I'm also really excited about finally having a transport straight forward and accessible enough that I can tinker myself and learn on. So I probably jumped to conclusions about what I should do that are a bit much. One last question for now. The previous owner put some of the most ugly decals I have ever seen on the tank. I started to peel one off a little but stopped since the paint was very discolored underneath. Do you guys think there is any chance of removing these god damned things without messing up the paint on the tank? If not, how difficult is it to do a good home paint job of say a matte dark blue? The appearance of the bike is kinda important to me, so I'm not sure I'd want to try my hand at paint jobs unless I am pretty confident.
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Oct 27, 2009 23:06
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PestiferousTrollop posted:One last question for now. The previous owner put some of the most ugly decals I have ever seen on the tank. I started to peel one off a little but stopped since the paint was very discolored underneath. Do you guys think there is any chance of removing these god damned things without messing up the paint on the tank? If not, how difficult is it to do a good home paint job of say a matte dark blue? The appearance of the bike is kinda important to me, so I'm not sure I'd want to try my hand at paint jobs unless I am pretty confident. Home paint jobs aren't as difficult as they may seem, especially with a bike. If you want to do it proper, I'd suggest first sanding down your existing parts to get the old paint off. Make sure it's nice and smooth. Apply coats of primer first in multiple light coats to build up a base. Once that sets and dries, repeat with the paint can. Even, multiple, light coats until you build up the finish you want. After that you can get yourself a matte clearcoat that will seal the paint well and not leave a glossy finish. Done.
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Oct 27, 2009 23:40
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r!de the short bus posted:i figured the fuel filter was as important as and air filter or oil filter, so one was installed already. do you mean replace it, or is this part not factory? and the rust deosnt seem to gnarly, maybe eventually i will look for that kit! I don't know, if they are factory installed, but if you just got the bike, replacing the filter should only take 2min and three bucks so its probably best to do so. Just make sure you line up the flow direction arrow on your filter with the direction the gas needs to be going in. All you should really need is 2 zip ties, and a screwdriver+pliers to tighten said zipties (prevents leaks and the filter popping off from vibrations while riding.
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Oct 28, 2009 07:48
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echomadman posted:maybe too late now but any modern honda on will do, the one for the fireblade works as a mate of mine has both bikes and swapped the blade regulator to his superfour It's not too late, we took the R/R back to the shop we bought it from and they replaced it for free. Replaced the chain riveter for free as well. We actually bought a new battery though, there was a reason for paying for it at the time. Turns out the R/R we're using is from a CBR 600. Spent the weekend tracing wiring looms and freaking that we weren't finding anything wrong. Gave up, threw the new battery and R/R in and he rode to work on Monday, fretting all the way. Had an electrician friend of ours come round monday evening, he thinks that the chain we use to secure the bikes had shorted the battery terminals under the seat (there's no battery cover, there's meant to be but it's missing on this bike). So that's some good news.
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Oct 28, 2009 12:00
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Orange Someone posted:It's not too late, we took the R/R back to the shop we bought it from and they replaced it for free. Replaced the chain riveter for free as well. We actually bought a new battery though, there was a reason for paying for it at the time. Turns out the R/R we're using is from a CBR 600. It's easy enough to check if the bike's charging system is working right, just turn the bike on, rev it to roughly 1/3rd of total RPM, and check the voltage at the battery. It should be around 14v, if you're getting significantly more or less, there's a problem.
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Oct 28, 2009 17:34
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So I'm thinking of converting my current bike (CBR600RR) for track day duty next season. I've been playing with spreadsheets and I was thinking of the following bits for it as a minimum: Bodywork (Woodcraft Armorbodies) Race clip-ons (Woodcraft-CFM) Engine covers (Woodcraft-CFM) Frame sliders (Woodcraft-CFM) Racing rearsets (Woodcraft-CFM) Toe guard (Woodcraft-CFM) Pads and Lines It sounds good, but I'm starting to have doubts that my bike is too new (08) and pretty for it and that I should just see if I can run across a good used track bike. I've been wanting to do it for a few years now and I've been figuring 'hey, I have the perfect bike for that' plus I've been wanting a more comfortable street bike. Maybe I should just be responsible and use my savings for a house 
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Oct 29, 2009 04:58
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