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Shlomo Palestein posted:My next door neighbor took one look at my tarspots and said WD40 would do the trick; oddly, miata.net recommends the same thing. Haven't tried it yet though, so it might be an old wives' tale.
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Nov 9, 2009 04:45
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My local club asked me to do the year end video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_2UOj2OsPs I'm in there a few times too.
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Nov 9, 2009 07:26
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Shlomo Palestein posted:My next door neighbor took one look at my tarspots and said WD40 would do the trick; oddly, miata.net recommends the same thing. Haven't tried it yet though, so it might be an old wives' tale. I'll give it a shot after this rain lets up. Just finished up the timing belt/water pump yesterday. Made me remember why I jumped from an MR2 to a Miata. I was only on my back for 20 minutes tops for that whole job.
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Nov 9, 2009 10:54
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Schwack posted:I'll give it a shot after this rain lets up. Just finished up the timing belt/water pump yesterday. Made me remember why I jumped from an MR2 to a Miata. I was only on my back for 20 minutes tops for that whole job. What were you on your back for - jacking it up, or the swaybar? I managed to do mine completely from up top thanks to ramps and a socket / breaker combo set that can clear the NB's swaybar and get the crank bolt out.
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Nov 9, 2009 13:11
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Ziploc posted:My local club asked me to do the year end video. Are you the goofy guy with the glasses in the HJC helmet?
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Nov 9, 2009 13:41
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A5H posted:Did you attend a mazda on track day recently by the way wild58? Nope, I have been to Donnington a few times (I like the large run off there as im not a fantastic driver on track). Why, have you been?
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Nov 9, 2009 14:02
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willd58 posted:Nope, I have been to Donnington a few times (I like the large run off there as im not a fantastic driver on track). Why, have you been? Yeah I attended, I thought I may have met you because there was a dude there on white TE37s with a supercharger and I noticed you'd been talking earlier in the thread about the same thing. I didn't think there would be many black mx5s in the UK on white TE37s was all 
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Nov 9, 2009 17:34
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Phone posted:Are you the goofy guy with the glasses in the HJC helmet? You mean the gray M2R helmet? Yea that was me. Car #102. I didn't know I did anything in that vid to make me look goofy though. I hope you liked the ending. I attempted to end with a bang.
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Nov 9, 2009 19:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:What were you on your back for - jacking it up, or the swaybar? I managed to do mine completely from up top thanks to ramps and a socket / breaker combo set that can clear the NB's swaybar and get the crank bolt out. Just the swaybar, and two of the radiator fan bolts which I didnt actually need to take off. The swaybar had to come off so we could get an impact gun on the crank pulley bolt.
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Nov 9, 2009 20:22
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Oh, yeah, no way you'll get an impact on it without pulling the swaybar. I'll stick with the Harbor Freight 3/8" drive breaker + Craftsman 21mm 3/8" socket, it's the only combo I could find that would clear.
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Nov 9, 2009 22:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh, yeah, no way you'll get an impact on it without pulling the swaybar. I'll stick with the Harbor Freight 3/8" drive breaker + Craftsman 21mm 3/8" socket, it's the only combo I could find that would clear. Yeah I railed on that motherfucker with a breaker bar and a 4 foot piece of pipe and it wouldnt budge. One cheap harbor Freight Impact Gun and 5 minutes later had that thing off and movin on. Our biggest problem was that we didnt mark the old belt up and had to reset the cam gears from zero. Seems nobody has any detailed instructions for doing that, but nailed it on the first try.
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Nov 9, 2009 23:14
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That part actually wasn't bad. I tried to do the whole use two crescent wrenches and a clamp to hold the cams in place but I lost my position at one point; the cam gears are marked well enough that it really isn't an issue, as long as you know which marks should line up where. The only thing that really caught me out was the fact that the crank trigger disc is dished ever so slightly, and will fit backwards - which will make the crank sensor not work, and thus no spark.
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Nov 10, 2009 04:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:That part actually wasn't bad. I tried to do the whole use two crescent wrenches and a clamp to hold the cams in place but I lost my position at one point; the cam gears are marked well enough that it really isn't an issue, as long as you know which marks should line up where. Yeah, we just agonized over it for a bit because we weren't 100% sure of how the cam gears were supposed to go back onto the cams, since it gives you three different options. Ended up just going with the way that made the most sense and turning the engine over more than the usual 2 times to make sure nothing bound up and everything worked out for the best. Also, any reason why people pull the crank pulley off using the four 12mm(10?) instead of just busting off the 21mm bolt and pulling the pulley and timing belt retaining disc all at once?
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Nov 10, 2009 08:23
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drat these cars for looking fast. I just got a ticket for 60 in a 35 by some rear end in a top hat cop. The funny thing is, I'd just turned on the road and had only traveled a block when he pulled me over. I tried explaining that it is physically impossible for me to accelerate that fast (on a cold engine no less) but he was having none of it.
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Nov 10, 2009 18:44
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revmoo posted:drat these cars for looking fast. I just got a ticket for 60 in a 35 by some rear end in a top hat cop. The funny thing is, I'd just turned on the road and had only traveled a block when he pulled me over. I tried explaining that it is physically impossible for me to accelerate that fast (on a cold engine no less) but he was having none of it. contest that poo poo immediately, the gently caress did he do, eyeball your speed and write you a ticket for 25 over?
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Nov 10, 2009 19:18
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It was all kinds of hosed up, he didn't know the speed limit of the zone we were in, didn't have his math right on the ticket. I'm waiting on a call back from his Sergeant and I've already sent the ticket over to my lawyer. I have no doubt my lawyer will get it thrown out (he used to be a judge in this town for about half a century). The problem is just that I now have to waste hundreds of dollars and my time for something I didn't even do! It's pretty clear that his radar unit was malfunctioning, that or he just felt like being a dick. No way to tell really. Really frustrating, as I wasn't out hot-rodding the thing, just trying to get my girl to school and me to work. It would be different if I was out in the country tearing rear end around the hills.
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Nov 10, 2009 19:24
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Some guy, a mechanic, just came by my office to ask if I want to sell my Miata. I WAS thinking about selling in the next year or two. 93 Miata, black/tan, ~130K mi, runs great, everything stock 08723 area code (NJ) Was totalled late 2007, but wasn't required to go get a salvage title - does this mean it's clear? Needs new ragtop, tires, clearcoat, alignment Clutch just done this summer Hardtop in good condition KBB is telling me $2200 for fair condition and won't estimate poor condition, Edmunds says $800 for rough cond but allotted me only $47 for the hardtop (lol). Am I crazy to think I can get $1800 out of this guy? I would take less but I have nothing saved to help get myself into a new daily driver.
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Nov 11, 2009 21:25
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lionskull posted:Some guy, a mechanic, just came by my office to ask if I want to sell my Miata. I WAS thinking about selling in the next year or two. The hard top alone is worth 800 or so. In my area at least, that car would go for 3500 at least. Don't base a miata's value off KBB, look at some classified for some of them in your area to get a realistic idea.
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Nov 11, 2009 21:34
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I have always been under the impression that if you are not planning to sell a car, but someone ad-hoc inquires if you will sell it, then you can justify asking more than fair value for it.
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Nov 11, 2009 21:40
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DreamOn13, thank you. Do you mind disclosing where you live? I'm wondering if you live in a warmer locale. Here we have almost 6 months of Miata-unfriendly weather. It's why I'm seriously considering this offer, as the Miata is my daily and I'm a bit sick driving like granma and still being somewhat unsafe. pp, thanks, that makes me feel better. Autotrader definitely has some higher numbers on similar cars. I assume they were never deemed totaled as mine has been, though. I'll have to decide now if I want to call and ask for $3K or make him verbalize the first number at this point.
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Nov 11, 2009 22:27
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Tell him $4000 and its his, otherwise its not for sale. If he takes it, then awesome, you got a good wad of cash. If he doesn't take it, you still have your miata.
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Nov 11, 2009 22:40
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lionskull posted:DreamOn13, thank you. Do you mind disclosing where you live? I'm wondering if you live in a warmer locale. Here we have almost 6 months of Miata-unfriendly weather. It's why I'm seriously considering this offer, as the Miata is my daily and I'm a bit sick driving like granma and still being somewhat unsafe. I'm in Cincinnati, Ohio. Not the best weather or the worst. If you're worried about snow driving, another set of steel wheels and some winter tires would fix that problem. Altogether it would set you back less than $500 (snow tires in miata size are cheap as hell) and you'd be much safer.
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Nov 12, 2009 22:15
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I popped a pinhole leak on the heater return line for my '91. I am planing on just buying the entire hose replacement kit from Rosenthal Mazda, but I wanted to see how likely it was that the others would start to develop issues. I do not want to spend the money if it is an unusual occurrence. VVV Right, but my question is if it is worth it to replace the other hoses too. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Nov 13, 2009 |
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Nov 13, 2009 17:26
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The heater hose at the back of the head is notorious for failing because it gets oil leaked on it from the CAS (leaky o-ring)
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Nov 13, 2009 18:42
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Tai-Pan posted:I popped a pinhole leak on the heater return line for my '91. I am planing on just buying the entire hose replacement kit from Rosenthal Mazda, but I wanted to see how likely it was that the others would start to develop issues. I do not want to spend the money if it is an unusual occurrence. One of my heater hoses blew a few months back (thanks to a leaking CAS seal) and I decided to replace both. You may save a little cash by only replacing the faulty one, but I think it is definitely worth it replace both especially if they are originals. Unexpectantly blowing a coolant line in the middle of nowhere is very bad and is not something I would want to risk just to save $15, luckily it happened to me when I was pulling in my driveway. Leaking coolant in that area can also contaminate the clutch disc, there's another reason to do both. Mariana Horchata fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Nov 14, 2009 |
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Nov 14, 2009 01:43
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Nov 14, 2009 02:10
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I like my Miatas with a tiny waist, and big rear end.
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Nov 14, 2009 03:12
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Get rid of the retarded hood that would look better (not good, mind you) on a C3 Corvette and you have yourself a nice bodykit.
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Nov 14, 2009 05:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Get rid of the retarded hood that would look better (not good, mind you) on a C3 Corvette and you have yourself a nice bodykit. Am I alone in liking powerdome hoods? 
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Nov 14, 2009 08:32
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KelvereseAysen posted:Am I alone in liking powerdome hoods? They work on very few cars. The Miata is not one of them.
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Nov 14, 2009 15:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:They work on very few cars. The Miata is not one of them. The stock minor bulge on the hood isn't a powerdome? Also, according to my Miata book, the M2 1006 had a 3.0L V6 in it, so they probably needed that dome.
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Nov 14, 2009 21:05
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 And so it begins. Too tired to post a project thread right now.
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Nov 17, 2009 06:51
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You are such a loving tease.
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Nov 17, 2009 07:16
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Nice airplane you got there.
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Nov 17, 2009 07:24
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What up Harbor Freight jacks buddy 
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Nov 17, 2009 07:33
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Goddammit post a project thread
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Nov 17, 2009 15:44
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destructo posted:What up Harbor Freight jacks buddy I've got 'em too, and the build quality is so poor; there's a gob of weld on mine keeping the actual jack from getting further into the pyramid. I'm sure they'll hold the car up fine (if I file down that weld so the pyramid is usable), but geez.
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Nov 17, 2009 17:43
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I just picked up my 99 white Miata last night and it's awesome so far. It's stock except for a Hard Dog roll bar. Cosmetically it's really good, but does need some work to bring it up to par. Alignment, tires, oil change, new coolant, brake/clutch bleed, clean/lube power windows. The timing belt is original and though the guy said in California the timing belt interval is 105k miles, I'll be changing it soon. Is it true that it's 105k miles? After that I'll be upgrading it and would like some help.. First things will be suspension, new wheels/tires, exhaust and intake. Suspension: What is a decent suspension setup for < $1000? I usually go with some decent lowering springs and a set of Bilstein Sports or something but there are so many options for this car I'd like to know what to look at. Even cheap coilovers would be fine for my purposes I think. How good are the stock swaybars? Wheels: I'm looking at these Enkeis: http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/21-1049.html Is there anything in a similar size that cheaper and just as light? Exhaust/Intake: I found these exhausts on Ebay that look like a good deal. Anyone heard of their build quality? I'm aware that it will not be great, but I have access to a welder and grinder and everything to make it fit right if needed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volt...sQ5fAccessories Whats a decent intake? What's a decent cheap header? I'm looking to lose the pre-cat. Thanks--sorry about the noob questions
aventari fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 19:24
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Suspension: Call Shakih @ Fat Cat Motorsports, this is your best bet for your budget par none. Wheels: Enkeis look nice. 949 Racing 6UL's are wider and cheaper. A ridiculous amount of people run them (me included), top notch wheels. http://949racing.com/15x8wheels-clickhere.aspx Intake: The Randall cowl intake is the only one that makes decent power, but seriously there's no point unless you just want some intake sound. Just pick up an AEM dryflow and call it a day otherwise. If you actually want power spend $1.8k and get a cheap turbo kit from BEGI. Exhaust: That looks like typical ebay garbage but who knows how it actually is.
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Nov 17, 2009 19:29
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aventari posted:Wheels:
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Nov 17, 2009 19:30
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