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I just cleaned the chain so that might very well be part of the issue. I've never heard that noise before but that pretty well describes. Also, the tank was pretty empty... Now I am noticing that its left cylinder clicks while idling... This is my first new bike and every little noise has me freaking out.
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Nov 8, 2009 23:51
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dietcokefiend posted:Welcome to the reason I sold my ZX600 So, I took the carb apart again-again..again.. and vigorously checked all the little pinholes and yadda yadda, and put it back together. VOILA! It started up, ran and (more importantly) idled great.. So I hopped on, in the dark, and took it out for a spin. Ran great, plenty of power, I would periodically clutch in to see if it was okay, the the revs dropped to idle every time. So I pull into the spot in front of my car with clutch in.. back it up to get it closer to the curb, and pull back forward. Get it into position, and the revs drop... drop.. drop.. and it stalls? I try to start it, and it just cranks, until I give it about half throttle, then it starts again.. and slowly dies. What sort of problem only happens after half an hour on the bike at varying speeds/throttles? What sort of hex has my bike acquired ALL FROM SITTING A WEEK TOO LONG WITHOUT MOVING. gently caress. 
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Nov 9, 2009 00:10
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Fantastipotamus posted:What sort of problem only happens after half an hour on the bike at varying speeds/throttles? Air leak and valve clearances should be next on your list.
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Nov 9, 2009 01:03
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What is the routing like on your fuel line? One time I had a fuel line juuuust kinked enough where as the bike warmed up and I took it out on the highway, it cutoff all power in the middle of rush hour traffic. Make sure it has nice broad curves to it.
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Nov 9, 2009 02:25
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Is your tank rusting out? The symptoms seem to be: Bike runs like poo poo. Clean carbs. Bike runs great for awhile, runs like poo poo. Clean carbs, bike runs great for awhile... Sounds like you've got poo poo that's getting introduced to your fuel system somehow, or you're getting lovely gas.
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Nov 9, 2009 03:22
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What's a good chain lube that CA would recommend? I just recently hit 300 miles on my motorcycle and would like to get any maintenance done, did the first oil change at 200 anything else I should do?
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Nov 9, 2009 06:41
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Cabledude posted:What's a good chain lube that CA would recommend? I just recently hit 300 miles on my motorcycle and would like to get any maintenance done, did the first oil change at 200 anything else I should do? I've personally been using Bel-Ray's Super Clean Chain Lube after cleaning the chain with kerosene. I used a Grunge Brush to clean the chain. In fact, I pretty much do what's on this page but with kerosene instead of WD-40. Bel-Ray's seems to protect the chain well enough and doesn't fling off. A problem with the lube, however, is that it catches dirt, so it's important to clean and lube every 150-300 miles. I recently bought some stuff from PJ1 as I moved and didn't see the Bel-Ray stuff at the new shop I went to. I haven't used it, yet, so I don't know how much I like it. Another option (I think Z3n uses it) is to just coat the chain in gear oil every few days. You wipe it on with a rag. A plus of this is that you don't have to clean before applying.
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Nov 9, 2009 07:03
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Uthor posted:Another option (I think Z3n uses it) is to just coat the chain in gear oil every few days. You wipe it on with a rag. A plus of this is that you don't have to clean before applying. It's actually best to apply one bead to each row of O-rings directly. Then you wipe off the excess. But yeah, no cleaning needed, but it does throw off a bit. It also makes sure that you hit every O-ring, so it reduces the chance of getting tight spots.
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Nov 9, 2009 15:57
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I did a valve clearance job on my Ninja 250 about a month ago, and succeeded in snapping off a rocker arm (I think it was already cracked, it was too easy to snap it off). After getting a rocker arm assembly in the mail a while later I got it installed along with a complete valve adjustment at a local shop. When I brought the Ninja back home I discovered that I had lost the radiator cap in the process of bringing it to the shop on a truck. It was loosely screwed on, and it must've bounced off. I got a new cap. Just got it in the mail and I'm back to the Ninja, all this work taking the span of about a month to be completed. Anyway, I had the original problem of fluctuating idle. That was why I did the valve adjustment myself in the first place. I just fired the Ninja up. It ran smoothly, and when I turned the choke off after a bit, it died. I started it up again and adjusted the choke to idle at around 3k rpm, warming up the engine, leaving the choke on. It reached the overheating range so I shut it off to let it cool off. A bit later I started it up again and turned off the choke, and the engine stayed alive, and I adjusted the idle screw to 2k. A moment later it fluctuated up to 3k, and hovered around there by -300 - + 300. I kept an eye on the radiator fan (which was plugged in) and it didn't activate itself and the engine went back to overheating range again. why does it do this? the valve adjustment has been done. What else is wrong? :-/ the walkin dude fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Nov 9, 2009 |
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Nov 9, 2009 21:25
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the walkin dude posted:overheating I doubt a valve adjustment would have anything to do with your bike overheating. If the radiator fan is plugged in, it could be the temperature sensor. This is mine on my Vulcan 500. I'm assuming it's something similar on a Ninja 250.  Click here for the full 1800x1350 image. The red circle indicates the sensor. It's at the bottom of the radiator facing the engine. It's underneath that rubber/plastic sheath, which slides right off. The sensor plugs into the harness a short way away (blue circle) near the horn. Make sure everything is plugged in properly. Warning: removing the sensor will result is coolant shooting everywhere. Otherwise, check your coolant level (if it's like the 500 cc engine, you need to drain the coolant to take off the valve cover) and oil level (I've overheated before due to lack of oil). You could try running the bike with a fan pointed at the radiator and seeing if that keeps the bike cool. Could be that the coolant isn't being pumped through the engine properly.
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Nov 9, 2009 22:47
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I asked the same question on a Ninja 250 forum, and someone replied with the suggestion of purging air from my radiator through running the engine with the radiator cap off. Since the radiator had been uncapped for quite a while, I'm hoping this is the solution. Apparently if there's air pockets in the radiator, the temperature sensor - fan connection wouldn't work. Trying that now...
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Nov 9, 2009 23:43
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dietcokefiend posted:What is the routing like on your fuel line? One time I had a fuel line juuuust kinked enough where as the bike warmed up and I took it out on the highway, it cutoff all power in the middle of rush hour traffic. Make sure it has nice broad curves to it. Z3n posted:Is your tank rusting out? I guess that's next on my list, too, when I pull the carb out a fourth time. The upside is I'm getting pretty good at it.. I can usually have it out in about 15 minutes. Getting it back in is a bit more difficult though.
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Nov 9, 2009 23:50
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Fantastipotamus posted:It's roughly 6" long, goes straight from the left side of the tank into the left side of the carb, and it's a pretty straight shot.. but I'll take a look again. Check your fuel filter and petcock as well. Sometimes corrosion in there can mess things up.
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Nov 9, 2009 23:58
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Amusingly, with my custom tank, I.. have no fuel filter? Kind of odd, now that I think about it. And in looking in my Clymer manual, it doesn't appear the KLR comes with one. Time to invest in one, methinks. I'll take a look at the petcock too.
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Nov 10, 2009 00:06
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Fantastipotamus posted:It's roughly 6" long, goes straight from the left side of the tank into the left side of the carb, and it's a pretty straight shot.. but I'll take a look again. Ok, well, the dirt is the problem. The real question is how is it getting into your float bowls? There should be no way for it to go from the airbox into the float bowls, it can only be coming from upstream. Gas goes out of the float bowls and there's basically no real way for dirt to flow back into them. Have you checked that the gas tank hasn't gotten filled with dirt somehow?
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Nov 10, 2009 01:47
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Z3n posted:Ok, well, the dirt is the problem. I felt like I did a good job cleaning both times, plenty of carb cleaner/compressed air/carb cleaner/compressed air.. but apparently I may not have done a good enough jobby. I suppose it doesn't take a huge amount of poo poo to cause issues in as fine an instrument as a carb.  Alright, so, reclean carb, clean air filter (including blowing the air intake tube out backwards), puling off the fuel valve/disassembling and cleaning. Ugh.. the first time was (somewhat) understandable, the second time was completely not, I just wasn't paying attention. Blech.
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Nov 10, 2009 02:04
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Fantastipotamus posted:Amusingly, with my custom tank, I.. have no fuel filter? Kind of odd, now that I think about it. And in looking in my Clymer manual, it doesn't appear the KLR comes with one. Time to invest in one, methinks. Yeah, not every bike has one. Not sure why.
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Nov 10, 2009 02:48
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A bike that runs well for 30 minutes then acts weird isn't symptomatic of a bike with a dirty carb. After it dies, when you let it sit for a while then try to run it again is it cured? Have you gone out and tried to run it since having the dying problem again? Honestly, it sounds more like you either ran out of gas, or your gas tank isn't venting well enough and you built up enough pressure to cut off gas flow.
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Nov 10, 2009 03:23
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n8r posted:A bike that runs well for 30 minutes then acts weird isn't symptomatic of a bike with a dirty carb. After it dies, when you let it sit for a while then try to run it again is it cured? Have you gone out and tried to run it since having the dying problem again? Honestly, it sounds more like you either ran out of gas, or your gas tank isn't venting well enough and you built up enough pressure to cut off gas flow. Well, I'd say the fact that he's finding dirt in the carb each time and each time he's cleaned the carbs he's dumped some dirt into the tank would explain it. 
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Nov 10, 2009 03:53
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n8r posted:A bike that runs well for 30 minutes then acts weird isn't symptomatic of a bike with a dirty carb. After it dies, when you let it sit for a while then try to run it again is it cured? Have you gone out and tried to run it since having the dying problem again? Honestly, it sounds more like you either ran out of gas, or your gas tank isn't venting well enough and you built up enough pressure to cut off gas flow.
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Nov 10, 2009 18:33
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Quick question, I left the starter button on yesterday on my Ninja 250 and when I came to it and put the ignition over to ON, there were no Neutral/etc lights coming on, just dead. I saw that the started button had been left on. Does this drain the battery? Does this mean I gotta get a battery tender (don't have one)?
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Nov 10, 2009 20:27
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the walkin dude posted:Quick question, I left the starter button on yesterday on my Ninja 250 and when I came to it and put the ignition over to ON, there were no Neutral/etc lights coming on, just dead. I saw that the started button had been left on. Does this drain the battery? Does this mean I gotta get a battery tender (don't have one)? You can jump it and just ride it for a bit. Don't jump it with the car running. A battery tender isn't a bad thing to have though.
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Nov 10, 2009 20:29
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Thanks. If I leave the starter button button on, this drains the battery even though ignition is set to OFF?
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Nov 10, 2009 20:43
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the walkin dude posted:Thanks. If I leave the starter button button on, this drains the battery even though ignition is set to OFF? You have to clarify what you mean. The starter button is what you hit to make the starter engage and start the motor. Leaving it on implies that you are standing by the bike for hours on end with your thumb on the switch, cranking the starter Are you talking about the kill switch? The big red switch next to the throttle that kills the engine? If so, just leave it on all the time and turn the bike on and off with the key.
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Nov 10, 2009 20:44
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Are you sure you didn't leave the ignition in Park or something that leaves your lights on? I've done that.
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Nov 10, 2009 20:50
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The kill switch is what I mean, haha. It was on, and it looks like the battery was depleted. I'll have to check again.
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Nov 10, 2009 21:49
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The kill switch being on shouldn't drain the batteries.
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Nov 10, 2009 22:04
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I just attempted to start the 250 with my car. My car has a lousy battery that dies after 5 minutes of leaving the headlights on, though. I put the key into "on" without starting the car, and tried to start up the bike. Nothing, zilch. I'll be asking a friend to come over and help with his truck's battery. Any advice? I followed these instructions http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_jump_start_your_bike_from_a_car
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Nov 10, 2009 22:08
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niethan posted:The kill switch being on shouldn't drain the batteries. Interesting - then why does the bike not start? No lights upon turning ignition to "ON", nothing.
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Nov 10, 2009 22:10
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As doctor zero said above, you might have left the key in the park position instead of the lock position, which keeps a small light going.
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Nov 10, 2009 22:12
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I left the key in the "OFF" position. I was trying to purge the radiator system of air pockets yesterday after a valve adjustment job, so I did a lot of running the engine and turning it on and off repeatedly. I parked the bike in "OFF," and came back to it not delivering electricity.
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Nov 10, 2009 22:17
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the walkin dude posted:I left the key in the "OFF" position. I was trying to purge the radiator system of air pockets yesterday after a valve adjustment job, so I did a lot of running the engine and turning it on and off repeatedly. I parked the bike in "OFF," and came back to it not delivering electricity. Well there you go. Starting a bike over and over and over will drain the battery very quickly.
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Nov 10, 2009 22:19
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the walkin dude posted:Interesting - then why does the bike not start? No lights upon turning ignition to "ON", nothing. Could be a minor short, or a bad battery. The kill switch doesnt control power to the bike at large, just to the coils. It serves one purpose in life and thats to stop the motor. Either way, leaving the kill switch in the run position wont drain your battery, as its not tied into it really. EDIT: How's your wiring? Pretty stock, or has someone hacked it together? If its the latter, then all bets are off, and your kill switch very well could be draining the battery. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Nov 10, 2009 |
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Nov 10, 2009 22:45
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Doctor Zero posted:Well there you go. Starting a bike over and over and over will drain the battery very quickly.
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Nov 10, 2009 22:53
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niethan posted:As doctor zero said above, you might have left the key in the park position instead of the lock position, which keeps a small light going. Even if this is the case, why doesn't it start when it's jumped? Jumping is going to effectively bypass a drained battery completely. Did you try wiggling the key around or checking to see if the connections on the bike are all secure?
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Nov 10, 2009 23:20
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Would push starting work when the battery is as hosed as it is? I know it does when the battery is strong enough to get the engine coughing at least, how is it when the battery is completely gone?
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Nov 10, 2009 23:29
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How hard is changing tires on a dual sport? Actually by how hard I mean what are the odds of me loving something up and dying? I don't want to pay to get them changed when I know it's a skill I need to have.
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Nov 11, 2009 00:43
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Allrighty, I'm back from trying to start the bike. My friend came over with a truck and he left the lights on and engine off while we connected its battery to the Ninja's. Tried immediately, with no results. Waited a bit, and tried again, still nothing. He looked at the main (i think) fuse and it looked fine. He's going to come back tomorrow with a multimeter and check the connections. What are the chances of it being a short? That seems to be the possibility, with the jumpstarting not being able to bypass a potentially dead battery... ?
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Nov 11, 2009 00:47
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^ So nothing at all is happening when you hit the starter button? ^niethan posted:Would push starting work when the battery is as hosed as it is? I know it does when the battery is strong enough to get the engine coughing at least, how is it when the battery is completely gone? Generally it won't work because there needs to be some kind of charge to get the motor moving up to 5-6k RPM. From there, the alternator can take over.
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Nov 11, 2009 01:39
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IAMKOREA posted:How hard is changing tires on a dual sport? Actually by how hard I mean what are the odds of me loving something up and dying? I don't want to pay to get them changed when I know it's a skill I need to have. its easy, but i would reccommend that you have a friend help you. also read this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717 Armacham fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 02:34
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