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Armacham posted:its easy, but i would reccommend that you have a friend help you. also read this thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717 Ok this is going to sound really dumb but if I buy new tires, I need to buy new tubes of matching size right?
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Nov 11, 2009 03:03
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anyone know the names of some bikes that use 30mm cv carbs? thinking some day i might try swapping out these piece of poo poo dellortos on my guzzi.
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Nov 11, 2009 05:51
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IAMKOREA posted:Ok this is going to sound really dumb but if I buy new tires, I need to buy new tubes of matching size right? you can reuse innertubes, but i would rather have the piece of mind of having new ones. If you've never changed a tire before, there's a non trivial chance of busting one of the tubes putting it back in, so its good to have extra anyway. What kind of bike, what size of tires are you changing?
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Nov 11, 2009 06:37
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Armacham posted:you can reuse innertubes, but i would rather have the piece of mind of having new ones. Yamaha TW200. The reason I asked about the tubes is because the rear tire is so wide, I imagine it needs a special extra fat tube too or somethingt. I've ruined enough tubes changing bicycle tires that I will probably order extra just in case. Bridgestone TW31 Tube Type Front Tire BW (D.O.T. Approved) 130/80-18 Yamaha TW200 (OE Repl.) Bridgestone TW34 Tube Type Rear Tire BW (D.O.T. Approved) 180/80-14 Yamaha TW200 (OE Repl.) Also the rear tire has been flat for the last week and it's really making me sad, so I need new tubes for sure anyway. This tube would work for the rear right? http://www.amazon.com/180-80-14-TR4-TUBE-BRIDGESTONE/dp/B0024XCJS2 IAMKOREA fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 06:40
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IAMKOREA posted:Yamaha TW200. The reason I asked about the tubes is because the rear tire is so wide, I imagine it needs a special extra fat tube too or something. yeah tubes will cover a range of size, but remember to always get a smaller tube, than a larger one. For your front tire you will probably need a 120/90-18 or 4.25/ 4.50-18 in inches, and I believe the back tire will have a 180/80-14, which i dont think i've ever seen in non-metric anyway. The important thing will be to go slow and use lots of lube edit: yeah thats the right one. I would also get new rim strips, those are cheap insurance as well
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Nov 11, 2009 06:47
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Having decided to keep my bike for another year I'm going to do some upgrades this winter. One of the smaller tasks is changing my pads again. They only have 8000 km or so on them, bu the wet performance is unacceptable. Am I right in assuming that sintered pads perform best in the wet, at the expense of disk wear?
Ola fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 20:01
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Has there been a thread/discussion on the Brammo Enertia nerd-bike that I haven't seen? I'm curious about CA's opinion.
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Nov 12, 2009 00:38
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Batteries are years from being ready for any electric bikes to even be useful or cost competitive, and there is a new one every week. Who gives a poo poo about this PR campaign by X company about Y bike?
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Nov 12, 2009 00:55
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Dubs posted:Batteries are years from being ready for any electric bikes to even be useful or cost competitive, and there is a new one every week. Pretty much this. They're cool in very, very specialized situations, basically short races against small displacement engines where the instant on torque is an advantage, and they could theoretically be awesome short hop commuters that are charged daily, but the cost is so loving absurd that it's just not worth it.
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Nov 12, 2009 00:59
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I ask because they evidently just lowered the price by about 3 grand, and supposedly there's a tax incentive that makes it even cheaper. I'd imagine that a short commute in a city it could end up being relatively economical.
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Nov 12, 2009 01:03
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Hypnolobster posted:I ask because they evidently just lowered the price by about 3 grand, and supposedly there's a tax incentive that makes it even cheaper. I'd imagine that a short commute in a city it could end up being relatively economical. If you're concerned about being economical, a small displacement scooter will have a higher top speed and you'd have to spend to replace batteries long before the savings in gas mileage were made up for by the lower cost of electricity. Hell, a Ninja 250 would be a vastly superior ride.
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Nov 12, 2009 01:08
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The gas savings is decent chunk. I did some math a while ago, while in my previous job. The commute was 42 km round trip, easy enough for single charge on good batteries. Given our relatively cheap electricity and expensive gas, I'd charge the batteries over a hundred times for a single tank of gas. That tank of gas has 5 times more range, so it was 20 times cheaper. To actually pay it off (this was the homebuilt version) would take something like 2000 trips to work, not counting any tires/chains (counted those as equal) and no battery replacement. I quickly concluded that economy alone wasn't a good reason to go electric, the coolness factor and eco girl sex had to count for something too.
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Nov 12, 2009 02:20
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Ola posted:Am I right in assuming that sintered pads perform best in the wet, at the expense of disk wear? It will wear the rotor more than an organic pad would, but shouldn't be so bad that the rotor is ground to dust as you watch. A lot of new bikes are coming with metallic or sintered pads anyway. I personally don't care if the rotors wear down a little faster on my bike, when I come around a corner loaded two up with my wife on the back and there's a deer in my lane, I want the bike to loose speed as quickly and as safely as possible. http://www.sportbikesolutions.com/sintered_vs_organic.htm For what it's worth, I swapped from OEM Honda pads to EBC Double-H sintered on my ST1300, and the braking performance is much better (it hasn't rained yet, so no personal wet stopping to report on).
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Nov 12, 2009 15:01
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Good article, thanks. I think I'll hunt down some sintereds so I can A/B it. Also getting steel braided hoses this winter. My disks have quite a bit of rotational wise grooving, could that mae wet braking worse? It really is pretty harrowing when it's raining good, I have to ride the brakes once every minute or more to have full braking power available. Otherwise there's like two seconds of "oh gently caress nothing's happening!" before the water is rubbed off and it starts braking.
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Nov 12, 2009 15:12
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How bad is quite a bit?  If pads ever went metal on metal and chewed the rotor up I'd be concerned. Since drying them out (applying the brakes for a bit every few minutes) restores the ability to stop I'd wager it's being caused more by the pads themselves being wet.
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Nov 12, 2009 15:49
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I suppose there has been metal to metal at some point. They are at the thin end of the width limit and you feel blunt grooves if you run your finger over them. I suppose I should swap them but they cost so drat much.  Perhaps something will show up on ebay.
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Nov 12, 2009 16:01
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Ola posted:I suppose there has been metal to metal at some point. They are at the thin end of the width limit and you feel blunt grooves if you run your finger over them. I suppose I should swap them but they cost so drat much. I ran with heavily grooved rotors for a long time. I wouldn't recommend it, per se, but I never had any problems. It would take a little while for the brake pad to conform to the rotor itself, but once it did braking power was fine. I even did trackdays on rotors like that. I'd hunt ebay. If availability is better in the US and you need someone to reship something from here, I'm happy to help you out.
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Nov 12, 2009 18:27
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Z3n posted:I'd hunt ebay. If availability is better in the US and you need someone to reship something from here, I'm happy to help you out. Thanks man! For now I think I'll just get some sintered pads to see if it helps in the rain, and otherwise not worry too much. There's quite a few used rotors on ebay for $50 to $100 a pair, which is excellent. But in the pics they all look very similar to mine so I guess they aren't too bad. My bike budget this winter is on steel braided hoses, rear shock and race tech emulators in the front. Should be a good upgrade. 
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Nov 12, 2009 22:16
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Ola posted:Thanks man! For now I think I'll just get some sintered pads to see if it helps in the rain, and otherwise not worry too much. There's quite a few used rotors on ebay for $50 to $100 a pair, which is excellent. But in the pics they all look very similar to mine so I guess they aren't too bad. There's nothing quite like suspension upgrades to make an old bike feel like new. Suspension upgrades, replacing/lubing/adjusting cables and flushing brake fluid.
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Nov 12, 2009 23:37
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I might get some brake bleeding gear too. All I have not is a tube with a check valve at the end so the fluid can only flow one way. Or at least that's how it's supposed to behave. Are cans with a hand pump any good? I'd rather keep it cheap and non-electric since it's a once a year job, but I do have access to a compressor.
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Nov 13, 2009 00:49
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Ola posted:I might get some brake bleeding gear too. All I have not is a tube with a check valve at the end so the fluid can only flow one way. Or at least that's how it's supposed to behave. Are cans with a hand pump any good? I'd rather keep it cheap and non-electric since it's a once a year job, but I do have access to a compressor.
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Nov 13, 2009 01:14
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Ola posted:I might get some brake bleeding gear too. All I have not is a tube with a check valve at the end so the fluid can only flow one way. Or at least that's how it's supposed to behave. Are cans with a hand pump any good? I'd rather keep it cheap and non-electric since it's a once a year job, but I do have access to a compressor. I use what amounts to that setup. Secure it over the bleeder, squeeze the lever with the bleeder open, close bleeder, release lever, repeat until it's running clear with fresh fluid. It's cheap and easy.
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Nov 13, 2009 01:18
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But what about when you're replacing the hoses? Isn't it best to fill from below? (it sure is Ola's question time today!)
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Nov 13, 2009 01:33
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Ola posted:But what about when you're replacing the hoses? Isn't it best to fill from below? It's a little time consuming to get all the bubbles out, but there's nothing wrong with filling them from the reservoir.
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Nov 13, 2009 01:51
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Allrighty, I'll save my hard earned for tangible, useful things like alcohol and cigarettes. Thanks!
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Nov 13, 2009 02:02
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And titanium wind screen fasteners. You can literally shave entire GRAMS of weight from your bike for only 40 euros.
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Nov 13, 2009 02:11
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Right now I'm more concerned with my browser's search history having 13" rear shock in it.
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Nov 13, 2009 02:13
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Anyone know the flare width of a DID X-ring chain master rivet link?
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Nov 13, 2009 07:27
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dietcokefiend posted:Anyone know the flare width of a DID X-ring chain master rivet link? I don't know it specifically, but I just flared it to the width of the other side of the pin. It's fairly soft metal so you need to overdo it a lot before it cracks.
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Nov 13, 2009 14:32
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Ola posted:Right now I'm more concerned with my browser's search history having 13" rear shock in it. Nice... hahahahha
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Nov 13, 2009 15:16
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So, are there any downsides to sticking some Sta-Bil in the tank if I'm still going to be riding it off and on during the winter? Should I bother? Depending on the weather the gas may be in the tank anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks.
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Nov 13, 2009 16:18
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Doctor Zero posted:So, are there any downsides to sticking some Sta-Bil in the tank if I'm still going to be riding it off and on during the winter? Should I bother? Depending on the weather the gas may be in the tank anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks. Unless US gas has the shelf life of eggs, I wouldn't worry about 2-6 weeks. I don't think Sta-Bil affects performance in a noticable way, so if it's no bother you can always put some in.
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Nov 13, 2009 16:30
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Ola posted:Unless US gas has the shelf life of eggs, I wouldn't worry about 2-6 weeks. I don't think Sta-Bil affects performance in a noticable way, so if it's no bother you can always put some in. That's what I thought, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask.
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Nov 13, 2009 16:47
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Hypnolobster posted:Has there been a thread/discussion on the Brammo Enertia nerd-bike that I haven't seen? I'm curious about CA's opinion. I never understood electric bikes from the standpoint of recharging. On a normal bike, when the tank is empty, I spend 3 minutes at the pump, and I'm ready to go for hours. On an electric bike, I have to wait 8 hours to charge it, and i'm ready to go for a couple more hours. Unless you're riding it to work, charging it while you're there and riding home, its pointless.
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Nov 13, 2009 17:19
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From a global (at least western) point of view, the commute and the shopping takes a huge portion of the transportation energy cake. If your total commute is less than, say, 100 miles round trip, an electric car would work just fine. Given that scenario range is not an issue. However, battery replacement is an issue and purchase cost is a huge issue since it would likely be a second vehicle. Enviroment, economy or whatever, not many people want to be seen in this: An electric bike for weekend canyon carving or long range touring would be completely useless. A commuto-matic would be fine, an electric motocross bike stationed and chargeable in the offroad area you rode it would be awesome.
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Nov 13, 2009 17:31
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Phat_Albert posted:I never understood electric bikes from the standpoint of recharging. On a normal bike, when the tank is empty, I spend 3 minutes at the pump, and I'm ready to go for hours. If they treated the batteries like propane tanks for gas grills it might work - you pull out your battery, and hand it in and you get a charged one in exchange. But of course would require a critical mass of vehicles to make it economically feasible, but it won't get there unless you have an easy way to charge the vehicles and round and round and round.
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Nov 13, 2009 17:32
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To me it seems like chasing electric vehicles is a dead-end. We should be chasing hydrogen fuel cells or CNG or propane. All of which can be retrofitted on to existing internal combustion motors. The userbase is right here and has been since the early 1900's. Completely switching directions and going electric is hard enough, then we have to worry about the infrastructure and all that. It just seems like the path of by far the most resistance.
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Nov 13, 2009 17:37
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Phat_Albert posted:It just seems like the path of by far the most resistance. Ohm my.  The infrastructure for electrics is already there, although I've heard many people express doubts about the US power grid, particularly in CA. The motors are there and have been for years. The only issue is range, versatility, cost and in the end market demand. Fix the first three and the fourth will come around. Electric motors have so many advantages in simplicity and usability, it would be a shame not to give it a proper chance.
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Nov 13, 2009 17:53
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Doctor Zero posted:If they treated the batteries like propane tanks for gas grills it might work - you pull out your battery, and hand it in and you get a charged one in exchange. This guy has a good presentation about just that: http://www.ted.com/talks/lang/eng/shai_agassi_on_electric_cars.html Pretty much you drive up to a station, a robot reaches up and replaces your battery, and you drive away. The battery gets charged in the station and goes into the next car. I think they're planning on rolling this out in Israel (I could be wrong) in a year or two and in Hawaii a little bit after that. Small countries/states where you aren't really going to go for long trips. Oh, a Wikipedia link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Better_Place
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Nov 13, 2009 19:32
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Mildly retarded question: If you hit one of the reflectors on the road (like they have on the DY) while you're at a high lean angle, is there a large chance of the bike losing traction? Logic tells me "yes", but I'm not sure if it's one of those crazy things the bike can handle or not. I'm having problems with my lines for some reason. I think my brain is afraid of taking turns too tight because it feels like I'm going to run off the road. I'm looking all the way through turns too, shrug. Anyway I don't particularly want to run wide into a reflector and lowside into oncoming traffic, doesn't sound like my idea of a good time.
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Nov 13, 2009 22:17
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