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Guinness posted:So yeah, people who claim to get near/above 30 are either the most passive drivers ever, only drive on rural highways with 50mph speed limits (and stick to it), or are plain lying.
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Nov 20, 2009 07:36
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Tactical Bonnet posted:what sort of mileage do you guys see out of your miatas? I seem to only be getting about 20-22 out of mine on average. I was just about to ask this sort of question. Mazda's site says their current Miata gets: 22/28, while a Civic gets 26 / 34 The NC Miata is 500 pounds lighter, and the engine is slightly larger, but that's still a large difference. Is it suspension setup, drivetrain loss, or gearing?
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Nov 20, 2009 18:00
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Coffee Jones posted:I was just about to ask this sort of question. The engine in a Miata is tuned more for performance than the civic's engine; as somebody mentioned earlier, Mazda engines run rich. That means extra fuel consumption.
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Nov 20, 2009 18:13
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I deliver in my 94 and get about 26-27 with 95% city, 5% highway. This is not romping on it too much. With the A/C on it's 22mpg regardless of what I do. That said freeway with A/C on but headlights down I'll hit mid 30s mpg at about 80mph. I've yet to hit over 29mpg freeway with the lights up... I've done almost 40mpg for 360 miles from Flagstaff to Tucson, AZ by not going on I-10/I-17.
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Nov 20, 2009 18:13
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Lyesh posted:The engine in a Miata is tuned more for performance than the civic's engine; as somebody mentioned earlier, Mazda engines run rich. That means extra fuel consumption. It's partially the gearing. After a certain RPM on most cars the ECU will go open-loop. With the Miata's gearing, you're in that range most of the time.
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Nov 20, 2009 18:14
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I've only had mine (2009 GT) for ~1600 miles, but - I got about 33mpg on my one trip from DC to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I tend to get around 28 with normal driving. Mine seems to get better mileage with higher octane fuel, is this possible or only a coincidence? televiper fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Nov 20, 2009 |
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Nov 20, 2009 19:10
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Guinness posted:P.S., if you are trying to drive with fuel efficiency in mind, shift just below 4000 RPMs. That's about the point where the ECU goes into open loop and starts dumping fuel into the engine. Mazdas already tend to run rich, and that just makes it even worse. Sucks that 4000 RPM in 5th is more or less 80mph on the dot. televiper posted:Mine seems to get better mileage with higher octane fuel, is this possible or only a coincidence? edit: you have an NC, nevermind. destructo fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Nov 20, 2009 |
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Nov 20, 2009 19:29
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televiper posted:Mine seems to get better mileage with higher octane fuel, is this possible or only a coincidence?
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Nov 20, 2009 19:32
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destructo posted:FYI open loop does not come on at a static 4000rpm, it still depends on load. I believe your wrong.
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Nov 20, 2009 20:46
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From AZ to CO I got no less than 29 and strangely got my best mileage going over mountain passes, 31 and change. 93LE retarded low mileage.
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Nov 20, 2009 22:38
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destructo posted:FYI open loop does not come on at a static 4000rpm, it still depends on load. Ziploc posted:I believe your wrong. I'm with Ziploc, everything I've seen seems to indicate that it is a pretty much static threshold. However, if you've got some info to the contrary, I always like being proven wrong. (I'm really only talking about the NA/NB, as that's what I know about. It would not surprise me at all if the NC has smarter/more dynamic fuel maps) Guinness fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Nov 21, 2009 |
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Nov 21, 2009 02:46
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/1471159491.html If I drive up there and this thing is in decent shape (I have to repaint it regardless) how would I tell if its worth the money? I'm really agonizing over finding a replacement top here because we're in the middle of a fuckton of rain right now and no amount of duct tape can keep my car from flooding nearly every night. I honestly wish a shitload of physical pain on whoever slashed my top because clearly they werent out to steal anything, just causing damage.
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Nov 21, 2009 03:02
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Everything that I've heard about non-OEM tops is that they really blow rear end.
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Nov 21, 2009 03:13
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Phone posted:Everything that I've heard about non-OEM tops is that they really blow rear end. If I get pictures of this top how would I tell if it is a Mazda top? Also, this popped up the other day and is about 9 hours away. How much should I consider offering on this thing? http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show
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Nov 21, 2009 03:25
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9 hours is a bit of a drive, but offer 650-700, and if he declines that, offer 850 firm.
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Nov 21, 2009 03:52
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I'm going to look at this car tomorrow, anything particular I need to look at on 1990s? Going to ask when the timing belt was changed because it will be due at 120k assuming it was changed when it was suppose to be, otherwise could I use it as a bargaining chip or should I run from a miata that didn't have a timing belt done on time? Does the price seem high for this car? I'm bringing the used miata buyer's guide checklist from miata.net with me to run down. http://stlouis.craigslist.org/ctd/1453388883.html
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Nov 21, 2009 07:09
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Guinness posted:I'm with Ziploc, everything I've seen seems to indicate that it is a pretty much static threshold. However, if you've got some info to the contrary, I always like being proven wrong. If what hes saying is that closed loop can occur BELOW 4,00rpm due to load and throttle position then he is correct. As far as above 4,000rpm I believe it's always closed loop. And NCs use wideband sensors for O2 readings. I don't think wideband systems use closed/open loop scenarios. Schwack posted:If I get pictures of this top how would I tell if it is a Mazda top? This should help a bit: http://www.miata.net/garage/hardtop/ There are basically two types of OEM hard top. One has extra insulation and defrost and the other earlier ones do not. That one appears to have a tint on the window. Russian Bear posted:I'm going to look at this car tomorrow, anything particular I need to look at on 1990s? Going to ask when the timing belt was changed because it will be due at 120k assuming it was changed when it was suppose to be, otherwise could I use it as a bargaining chip or should I run from a miata that didn't have a timing belt done on time? Does the price seem high for this car? Miatas are non-interference. So if it snaps your only going to need a timing belt job if that happens. But in all likelyhood if that happens your stranded and will need a tow. Miatas routinely go over the recommended service interval for the belts. The top doesn't look original. Make sure the fitting is tight. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Nov 21, 2009 |
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Nov 21, 2009 08:27
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Ziploc posted:If what hes saying is that closed loop can occur BELOW 4,00rpm due to load and throttle position then he is correct. As far as above 4,000rpm I believe it's always closed loop. How serious is the crank shaft issue in 1990s? Google says less than 1% of all cars were affected. Anyone here had experience with this?
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Nov 21, 2009 09:12
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Russian Bear posted:How serious is the crank shaft issue in 1990s? Google says less than 1% of all cars were affected. Anyone here had experience with this? http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html Read that. 90-91.5 all had short noses.
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Nov 21, 2009 09:20
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Went and drove the car today. 1990, 105k miles was owned by a 60 year old lawyer(allegedly) no records, clean carfax. I'm told it's been garaged all its life(it is being garaged now) and it looks that way to me. The paint is very good, a couple of places(where it's not really noticeable) it's starting to chip away but other than that it's good. So going down the list, here's what I made note of: Front/rear underneath: There is surface rust on the springs, the right rear has been replaced at some point looks newish. I read that I should expect more than usual cabin noise in a miata, but when I started it up you could really hear the exhaust and i'm not sure if it's a good noise or just how loud the car is suppose to be. Gut says it sounds like there's a hole somewhere in the exhaust. Also, when I idled for a few minutes top up, windows down I could smell a little exhaust. I'm not sure if it's coming from outside or not. Tires/wheels/brakes: Tires look great, even wear, plenty of tread left. Break pads have just been replaced there's lots of pad left. Rotors look good. There's a bit of a scuff on one of the tires on the rim(scuffed on a curb maybe). Trunk: First thing, the battery is not the Panasonic original. It's a duralast(i assume lead acid battery). If I do buy this car, should I replace it with a panasonic one? I didn't see any leaks or rust in the trunk. Interior: Things look nice. The guy is replaced the center console plastic because it was cracked at the bottom(OEM part). No apparent stains, scratches or hard wear. (soft)Top: Guy says it's original. There's a repaired tear(?) on the right side of the top on the seam where the support bar is(about 8 inches long). Other than that it looks good. How do I tell if it's a mazda part just to double check? On the inside it looks like there's some discoloration. Under the bonnet: Looks clean, oil just changed, brake fluid looks good. No cracks in the drive belt or hoses. No corrosion damage on anything. I tested the clutch on my test drive, still feels ok even though the guy said the clutch hasn't been changed(that he knows of). He wants $3950 for the car, but he wasn't expecting to sell it till next spring, asked me what I'd pay for it and I told him i'll think about it and get back to him. Also planning on calling a dealership to see how much it would cost to have an inspection done. Edit: any miata savvy stl goons here? I'll buy lunch for taking a look at the car. Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Nov 21, 2009 |
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Nov 21, 2009 20:21
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Russian Bear posted:Under the bonnet: I think one thing I read about the short nose crank is that if it's about to go, you can grab the crank pulley and feel noticeable side to side play with it. Did you look toward the rear around the cam cover or on the CAS to see if there was any oil leaking out? Or if there was oil stains on the hoses back there? Those might be signs that the CAS O-ring hasn't been replaced. Oh, NE people, if anyone is looking for what seems to be an insane deal, check out: http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/1476064320.html I'm gonna meet with the dude Monday but it might be too late.
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Nov 21, 2009 20:55
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I bet he'd take somewhere between 3-3.5k for it.
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Nov 21, 2009 20:56
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kimbo305 posted:insane deal, check out: Holy crap that's cheap...AND it has a hard top? Makes me feel dumb for paying 4k for one of these. 
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Nov 21, 2009 22:36
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Russian Bear posted:(soft)Top: Did you take pictures? I only suggested that it wasn't original was because the rear window didn't look like it was the factory shape. Where did you let it idle? Was it cold? Miata's run pretty rich on cold starts.
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Nov 21, 2009 23:09
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kimbo305 posted:I think one thing I read about the short nose crank is that if it's about to go, you can grab the crank pulley and feel noticeable side to side play with it. "Needs Some Rust Repair to Pass Inspection" bothers me a little; implies that there's nasty unibody rust that needs to be repaired and might not end up with the car driving straight anymore.
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Nov 22, 2009 00:19
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Lyesh posted:"Needs Some Rust Repair to Pass Inspection" bothers me a little; implies that there's nasty unibody rust that needs to be repaired and might not end up with the car driving straight anymore. If it totally conked, you could recoup some, if not all of the cost by selling the hardtop (OEM according to seller) and parting out the car. Though that's still a hassle and not as fun as a running Miata.
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Nov 22, 2009 00:28
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kimbo305 posted:If it totally conked, you could recoup some, if not all of the cost by selling the hardtop (OEM according to seller) and parting out the car. Though that's still a hassle and not as fun as a running Miata. Oh, most definitely. I'm just trying to figure out how that car ended up at that price.
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Nov 22, 2009 00:37
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Russian Bear posted:
Yes, it's a lead-acid battery. I have a duralast battery in my trunk and it hooked right up to the original drain hoses. Does the little sticker on top say 8AMU1R? It should. It should also be an 8 year battery from autozone, if you care about that.
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Nov 22, 2009 08:07
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http://www.globalnetspace.com/miata/
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Nov 23, 2009 01:03
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So, XMas gift to myself is to put a sound system into the miata because it has some horrid Kenwood CD player in it now and the (probably) factory paper speakers. I already have an Alpine MRP-F250 amp (~90W RMS X 2) to use for it and will probably pair it with this headunit here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17355_JVC+KD-HDR20.html Only question: What component speakers should I get? Will 6.75"s fit or do I need to stick to 6.5"s? Since I'm not installing a subwoofer for obvious reasons I'd prefer to get the largest woofer that will fit... For now for a 6.5" I'm thinking these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9109_Polk+Audio+db6501+.html Thanks guys 
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Nov 23, 2009 07:32
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This price seems a little high for this car. I was emailing with the guy and he said the car started mis firing, he is going to change spark plugs and wires to see if it fixes the issue. He asked me to post pone the test drive till he can do that. How much is fair price to offer assuming i like it? I think around 4k? http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/1466257702.html Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Nov 23, 2009 |
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Nov 23, 2009 09:17
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I'm going to have a final look at an NB series 1 tomorrow with a mechanic friend of mine. If all goes well I should be a proud owner by the end of the week.  I've had an RACQ inspection done, and the only troubling things mentioned on the report are: "Oil wetness - clean and rectify source" I assume this would be typical of a car this age? "roof latches faulty.Do not lock in place". I didn't notice this before - I'll look at it tomorrow. "Non standard exhaust manifold fitted" - This won't affect anything (apart from my insurance premiums) right? it's done 170,000km and he wants AUD 10,800 for it. Does it sound ok? Are there any major pitfalls I'm missing?
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Nov 24, 2009 10:31
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Granite Octopus posted:"roof latches faulty.Do not lock in place". I didn't notice this before - I'll look at it tomorrow. It's probably the safety button for the latches. They wear out and get to the point where you don't need to press them any more and can undo the latches without pressing the safety button. Picture of the exhaust manifold?
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Nov 24, 2009 18:47
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Found this in the GBS comic megathread. :iamafag:
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Nov 24, 2009 22:31
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I'm sorry, I didn't notice when sports cars became a dying trend 
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Nov 24, 2009 22:46
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it's a fake no a-pillar window
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Nov 24, 2009 23:02
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So after having three people at three intersections whip out in front of me while I was cruising at 45mph and honking my adorable little meep-meeeeeeeeep horn, I have begun to consider some sort of noise upgrade to reach stupid old women in mercedes SUVs. Seriously. Three different Mercedes SUVs pulled out in front of me with so little room that I no longer question how well those duralast gold pads I put on work. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Nov 25, 2009 07:03
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Tactical Bonnet posted:So after having three people at three intersections whip out in front of me while I was cruising at 45mph and honking my adorable little meep-meeeeeeeeep horn, I have begun to consider some sort of noise upgrade to reach stupid old women in mercedes SUVs. Seriously. Three different Mercedes SUVs pulled out in front of me with so little room that I no longer question how well those duralast gold pads I put on work. Train horn? Foghorn? Police siren?
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Nov 25, 2009 07:51
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Yes that's the general idea, I was just curious about recommendations for specific train whistles or semi air horns. I'd love to unload a train whistle at the next person.
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Nov 25, 2009 08:02
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Yes that's the general idea, I was just curious about recommendations for specific train whistles or semi air horns. I'd love to unload a train whistle at the next person.
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Nov 25, 2009 08:30
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