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I get very little engine braking on my bike since it revs so drat low under normal operation (and has a lot of torque). It's kind of annoying, actually because I typically have to downshift or hit the brakes when following another bike and they start engine braking. And it's a Honda so I get no engine breaking. 
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Nov 17, 2009 15:59
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| # ? May 15, 2024 07:48 |
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PlasticSun posted:Both Riding Solo to the Top of the World and One Crazy Ride by dirttrackprodcutions.com are incredible. Also see "The Long Way Round" and "Long Way Down" by Ewan McGregor. Books and documentaries. Or were you thinking more fiction stuff?
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Nov 18, 2009 04:06
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PlasticSun posted:
first one is okay, nice pictures at least, but he exaggerates a lot. I love the Lois Pryce books... I'm waiting to borrow the 4th book after my gf is done reading it
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Nov 18, 2009 04:12
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Jesus christ the forecast keeps getting worse and worse. Low 40's in Cincinnati and rain wed to friday on the 10 day forecast so far. Low 30's in Milwaukee and rain wed to friday on the 10 day forecast so far. I really starting to have doubts about a Thanksgiving road trip 
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Nov 18, 2009 18:32
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Here's a question caused by a stupid operator, How the hell do you remove a stripped to hell Allen Bolt?
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Nov 20, 2009 03:15
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Cabledude posted:Here's a question caused by a stupid operator, I think someone sacrificed a Torx bit, hammering it into the stripped bolt head and that worked pretty well (as long as you don't mind losing that bit).
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Nov 20, 2009 04:24
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What does it mean when you have a front sprocket that has lots of shiny wear on one side and looks untouched on the other? Usually something like that in the rear would mean a misaligned rear wheel, but on the front?
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Nov 20, 2009 05:28
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Missing a spacer?
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Nov 20, 2009 05:40
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Skier posted:Missing a spacer? Not on the front, that was original. Rear has all 3 (well 4) spacers.
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Nov 20, 2009 05:54
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dietcokefiend posted:Not on the front, that was original. Rear has all 3 (well 4) spacers. Rear axle alignments probably a bit off. That'd be my guess.
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Nov 20, 2009 06:03
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Z3n posted:Rear axle alignments probably a bit off. That'd be my guess. But wouldnt it show as wear on the rear sprocket?
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Nov 20, 2009 06:05
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dietcokefiend posted:But wouldnt it show as wear on the rear sprocket? If the sprocket is cocked a little sideways, it's still going to wear both sides as it goes. The rear is wearing normally but the front isn't? You're running the stock sprockets, right? Can you see any visual misallignment?
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Nov 20, 2009 06:10
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Z3n posted:If the sprocket is cocked a little sideways, it's still going to wear both sides as it goes. The rear is wearing normally but the front isn't? You're running the stock sprockets, right? Can you see any visual misalignment? These are the original sprockets to the bike. All OE from the factory with 15k on them. The rear sprocket looks perfect, no side wear, only shiny on the inner swoop of each tooth. The front sprocket though looks like the chain was riding to one side all the time. Side facing engine  Side facing street 
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Nov 20, 2009 06:24
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Well looking at the rubber damper glued to each side of the sprocket, I think the alignment was wacky for a while. If you look at the side that is worn facing up, the grooved section of the rubber is closer to the teeth, where on the bottom there is a bit of a gap. Once the thing started on the side the rubber didn't let the chain leave and kept it rubbing the sprocket.
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Nov 20, 2009 06:45
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Right, so I'm trying to remove the AC generator rotor from my bike (1991 GS500) as part of an ongoing project to completely tear down this bike and then promptly not put it back together. I've been trying to get it out with a slide hammer but the drat thing will not budge. Any ideas as what to try next? I don't have the cash on me to buy the special tool from Suzuki, so thats out. Another forum says a gear puller might work. Edit: Hey guys, guess who just pulled out the threads! Looks like Gear puller or bust now! Surprise! Another edit!: I got it off with a Gear puller but it seems I broke a few magnets off. Hooray! I doubt i'd be able to glue them back on there. I'd probably be best off trying to find a parts bike at this point. Chairon fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 22, 2009 |
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Nov 21, 2009 21:14
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Well, whatever the issue was with my KLR carb last time seemed to fix itself. As I was prepping to yank the carb again yesterday, I decided to give it a start, just to see what happens (realistically, whats the worst that could have happened? it could have still not run right?), and with the choke on, it start quickly and rev'd up to 3k (which is where it sits when choked out). After a few minutes warming up, i backed off the choke, and the idle settled down to where it should be. Huh.. so I hopped on and went for a ride, still skeptical at this point though, because this is where it all goes wrong, typically. It was running just a smidge lean (popping on decel lightly, and only under 3k rpm), so I pulled off on the side to adjust my idle mixture screw, and while i sat there fumbling with my would be adjustment tool (a straightened out picture hanger), it started to slowly work down towards stalling again.. so I basically turned the idle screw up a little, which seemed to work, and headed home. Got home, richened the mixture just a touch, dropped the idle screw down just a bit, and headed back out.. and it ran great. Man, carbs are made entirely of voodoo and pixie tears. Could the fact that I was running Sta-bil in the tank (and probably more than was necessary - like 6 gallons worth for 4 gallons or so) have affected the way it behaves at idle? That specific 'dying at idle' problem only occurred after I started running the tank with the Sta-bil in it.
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Nov 22, 2009 15:36
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So in my ongoing cafe racer project, I just installed a new 4-into-1 exhaust system on my 96 xj600, replacing the two 2-into-1 pipes. Didn't realize there was no baffle so the thing is LOUD. Going to build one and install soon. What I have noticed though, is that I seem to be getting a bit of backfire now that I installed the new full system. Is this normal? What should I look to adjust to keep it from backfiring?
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Nov 24, 2009 20:17
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It's normal. You can richen the mixture slightly if it'll make you feel better, but almost every bike I've modded/with an aftermarket pipe will pop on decel. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Nov 25, 2009 01:36
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Z3n posted:It's normal. You can richen the mixture slightly if it'll make you feel better, but almost every bike I've modded/with an aftermarket pipe will pop on decel. I wouldn't worry about it. Okay cool. I wasn't sure if that backfire/popping would do some damage to the engine. Thank you.
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Nov 25, 2009 02:38
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There's a perfect condition Z1000 for $2700 near me. 13k miles and a few tasteful aftermarket parts. The ad looks completely legit but that seems like such a low price for what is a pretty awesome bike. There's another for sale with a dent or two for $3000. Why are these awesome bikes so cheap?
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Nov 25, 2009 18:08
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:There's a perfect condition Z1000 for $2700 near me. 13k miles and a few tasteful aftermarket parts. The ad looks completely legit but that seems like such a low price for what is a pretty awesome bike. There's another for sale with a dent or two for $3000. Why are these awesome bikes so cheap? Bikes don't sell very well in the fall? That's one possibility. Without knowing more information (year, area, etc.) It's hard to answer that question.
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Nov 25, 2009 18:25
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:There's a perfect condition Z1000 for $2700 near me. 13k miles and a few tasteful aftermarket parts. The ad looks completely legit but that seems like such a low price for what is a pretty awesome bike. There's another for sale with a dent or two for $3000. Why are these awesome bikes so cheap? Salvage title? They're just not very popular bikes. G/f has one, she loves it, I think it's an awesome and very underrated bike. Excellent first literbike.
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Nov 25, 2009 18:34
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Brits and other Euro guys! wemoto.com have launched a new(ish) website and are offering 25% discount this weekend. If you've shopped there before you should have received an email with a voucher code. I'm going to take the opportunity to get myself some steel braided brake hoses and some odds and ends. Quick question before I hit submit, is tapered bearings in the triple tree a worthwhile upgrade? I don't know what's in there and I don't think it's worn but there's an odd feeling to the steering at low speed which I've never been able to put my finger on. I'll be upgrading the suspension later on, but should I order the (slightly expensive) tapered bearings as well? It will probably be a serious bitch to replace. doublepost from chatting thread due to time constrains and being an attention whore
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Nov 28, 2009 15:43
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I wouldn't bother, personally. Unless the bearing races were all hosed up, in which case you may as well go for it. But if you're not planning on pounding out the races, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Nov 28, 2009 18:31
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Ok, this happened twice recently. A few days ago and then again today. I was traveling at high speeds and when I put down the brakes, slowing down quickly to a stop, the engine shuts down. I'm forced to coast to a stop, pull over, and start it back up. It starts up again without a problem. What's the issue with that? This is a Ninja 500 with no problems otherwise. I know it's in need of spark plug replacement soon.
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Nov 30, 2009 18:32
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Can someone tell me what the deal is with motorcycle financing? It seems like, if there's no promotions going on, you basically are paying what amount to credit card default interest rates. I could literally pay for my entire bike on a credit card, not have to worry about a credit pull, and have a lower interest rate to boot. Has anyone ever tried doing that?
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Nov 30, 2009 19:13
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Radbot posted:Can someone tell me what the deal is with motorcycle financing? It seems like, if there's no promotions going on, you basically are paying what amount to credit card default interest rates. I could literally pay for my entire bike on a credit card, not have to worry about a credit pull, and have a lower interest rate to boot. Has anyone ever tried doing that? Sure, why not. Although I usually just write a credit card check for the cash and then buy the bike with cash, since my CC companies were always giving really low rates for cash advances.
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Nov 30, 2009 19:15
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When I bought my Kawasaki, the "financing" was essentially buying the bike on a Kawasaki credit card. I just did it that way because I could pay for half the bike when I bought it and I had a CD maturing two months later for the other half, so I only payed about $50 in interest.
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Nov 30, 2009 19:52
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I just bought a 1980 Honda CB 650C, and it needs a new gas tank(current tank is patched). Any ideas on where to get it besides eBay? There's a local parts guy who has one for $100, but I don't know what shape it's in yet.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:03
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My friend just got an '81 CX500C off a local seller. I test rode it and it rode fine around the neighborhood around 30mph. He just told me today that at higher speeds, it won't want to shift. As he pulls the clutch in and attempts to shift, the shifter peg vibrates and won't go into gear until he slows down. I told him that hopefully his clutch cable could just need adjusting, as it might not be fully disengaging the clutch. It's also a longshot, but I thought that maybe if the PO didn't put wet-clutch friendly oil in the bike, it might gently caress things up. Am I way off base here, should he expect to be replacing his clutch?
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Nov 30, 2009 22:27
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Is it vibrating because its grinding? If so, hope that its the clutch, you dont really want to split the cases and toss new gears in it.
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Nov 30, 2009 22:48
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Phat_Albert posted:Is it vibrating because its grinding? If so, hope that its the clutch, you don't really want to split the cases and toss new gears in it. I'm in the middle of doing just that right now! It can be a bit of a bitch, yes.
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Dec 1, 2009 00:58
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Chairon posted:I'm in the middle of doing just that right now! It can be a bit of a bitch, yes. How much slack before the clutch lever starts getting resistance? If you've got more than a couple of mm of slack before it starts to pull the cable, the clutch will never really disengage completely, leading to the problems you describe. Let's not talk about hydraulic clutches, either. 
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Dec 1, 2009 01:27
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Z3n posted:Let's not talk about hydraulic clutches, either. I personally cannot wait until the throttle is hydraulic too.
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Dec 1, 2009 01:35
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Jack the Smack posted:I personally cannot wait until the throttle is hydraulic too. Hydraulics are used for brakes and clutches as a force multiplier...
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Dec 1, 2009 01:45
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UserNotFound posted:Hydraulics are used for brakes and clutches as a force multiplier... Exactly. Edit: I'm thinking more of multiplying the force by a decimal. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 01:49
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Jack the Smack posted:I personally cannot wait until the throttle is hydraulic too. You're right, I can't wait until the fluid gets hot and boils and then I can't get on the throttle smoothly because the engagement point changes every time I roll in or out of the throttle. First person to put a hydraulic throttle on a bike is getting shot.
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Dec 1, 2009 02:10
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Not that this fits in this thread at all but I can't wait until bikes can alter their seating ergos and stance on the fly. Sport mode? Check, pegs back and up, handlebars down. Touring? Check, pegs down and forward, handlebars up.
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Dec 1, 2009 02:21
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Z3n posted:You're right, I can't wait until the fluid gets hot and boils and then I can't get on the throttle smoothly because the engagement point changes every time I roll in or out of the throttle. Dot4 has a boiling point of 300+ F. My engine rarely goes above 220.
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Dec 1, 2009 02:22
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| # ? May 15, 2024 07:48 |
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Not that this fits in this thread at all but I can't wait until bikes can alter their seating ergos and stance on the fly. Sport mode? Check, pegs back and up, handlebars down. Touring? Check, pegs down and forward, handlebars up. Your prayers have been answered: http://erikbrinkman.com/rbike/Home.html This guy is nuts. He found another forum I'm on 2 years ago and after a long, long arguement, he said that I could come down to the motorcycle show and take it for a test ride. Still waiting for that test ride, Erik. Still waiting. Expect I'll be waiting a long time. Dude's nuts, probably independently wealthy, and just...crazy. The forum posts that he made aren't searchable because the mod figured it's just a crazy scheme to drum up publicity on the internet, but if there's interest, I could cross post some of the better ones.  Jack...your exhausts/etc get a lot hotter than 220 degrees, and that can cause a nice amount of heat soak into lines that run around the engine. And I'm not sure on this, b ut I don't think it needs to reach boiling point to start to get imprecise. I know that the ZZR1200 clutch fluid definitely isn't boiling, but it's still a bitch to modulate when the engagement point changes every 10 seconds. Could also be the MC, but honestly, that's just not something I want to ever deal with. Throttle fade?
Z3n fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 04:07
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