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Jack the Smack posted:Dot4 has a boiling point of 300+ F. My engine rarely goes above 220. That's the coolant temp not the engine temp, and definitely not anywhere near the hottest temperature that some particular component of the engine or exhaust would see.
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Dec 1, 2009 04:34
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Bah the left front blinker on my bike isnt working... probably from the rain we had a few nights ago. Siigghh. And my rear break light isnt really working. The running light works, but doesnt get brighter (well... it does a lliittttttllee) when i pull the break lever guess i know what Im doing tomorrow. Any advice for working on electronics? I do not want to get shocked.
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Dec 1, 2009 04:55
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You won't get shocked anywhere on a motorcycle by electricity unless you are messing around with the spark plug leads while it's running. Even then you almost have to be trying. If it happened just after a rain storm I'd be looking into the housings for water. If not there, then the connectors running to the lights themselves. They could have water in them too. Also check your ground connections. Easiest way to do this would be to have a service manual handy to show you where they are but you can always follow the wires.
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Dec 1, 2009 06:13
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Z3n posted:
Ha ha ha oh jesus. I love this kind of stuff.
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Dec 1, 2009 08:06
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Bugdrvr posted:You won't get shocked anywhere on a motorcycle by electricity unless you are messing around with the spark plug leads while it's running. Even then you almost have to be trying. problem with wiring if you're not familiar with it is bayou's symptoms could mean a bad connection in a lot of different places. it's just a lot of things to check. wire connectors between the blinkers and the bike would be the first.
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Dec 1, 2009 08:21
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Z3n posted:Your prayers have been answered: Which render are you going to ride? I like the Medic Model. 
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Dec 1, 2009 14:49
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Ola posted:Ha ha ha oh jesus. I love this kind of stuff. Taken verbatum from the specs: quote:RESERVE No big deal guys, just...lean it over 45 degrees to the side while riding along when you run out of gas! Maybe the shapeshifting has something to do with it...  From his old posts: quote:It is not for poor folks to whom 20k is a lot of money. He later goes on a rant about how no one ever needs to go past 90mph and to do so or override the governer would void your warrenty and he would never want to look at or touch your motorcycle again. quote:On you slam against the “rich”, He's like Lassiez Faire and cycle asylum had a bastard baby. I'd forgotten how hilarious he was.
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Dec 1, 2009 17:38
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Yes, Japanese bikes certainly are junk after 30K miles. *ignores the mountains of 100K+ mile Japanese bikes out there*
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Dec 1, 2009 19:30
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Phat_Albert posted:Yes, Japanese bikes certainly are junk after 30K miles. Uh oh. I'm at -15k miles! What should I do??? 
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Dec 1, 2009 19:34
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Z3n posted:
It seems like a perfectly researched troll. It's also fun how he talks about his 3D renders' performance in the present. Any good technical reasoning behind the "double wishbone" swingarm?
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Dec 1, 2009 19:53
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A quick question for you all: What's your take on the more expensive new bike (but with great financing) vs. the less expensive used, private party bike (with much more difficult to obtain financing, or "put everything else onto the credit card" financing)? I'd like to get a dual sport, most preferably the Suzuki V-Strom 650 after doing some research thanks to posters in this thread. There are some great deals on used ones around, but I don't have the six thousand in cash right now (although I have good credit and a steady job). Or, I could get a new one for $8k or so and finance it... with all the new-bike niceties and warranty that entails, too. I know what most people will answer: get something you can afford. I know, I really should, and I'm seriously considering picking up an '01 KLR or something that's already depreciated to hell so it won't really matter when I sell it again... but then again, that's not the bike I truly want. What to do? edit: Last question... I'm in San Diego, and I've visited most of the motorcycle dealers around here, and most are staffed with complete shitheads. The only exception being, of course, BMW, which I can't afford (although they were cool as hell and obviously love to show off their stuff). Fun Bike Center wants full MSRP plus about $1100 for all their bullshit fees, etc. What's an acceptable price for a V-Strom 650 (2009) in SoCal right now? I've found it's pretty hard to compare because a bike in Michigan in December is obviously going to sell for less than one in San Diego at the same time. Radbot fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 20:15
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Radbot posted:A quick question for you all: What's your take on the more expensive new bike (but with great financing) vs. the less expensive used, private party bike (with much more difficult to obtain financing, or "put everything else onto the credit card" financing)? It sounds like you've already made up your mind and are looking for validation. Financing decisions are best made with your own financial situation in mind. Just remember that used bikes don't (generally) lose value the second you throw a leg over and fire it up. Another very important thing to consider is your riding skill and history. If you consider yourself any kind of new rider, it's just not a good idea to buy new because you stand a good chance of dropping your brand new shiny toy while you gain confidence. It's far more heartbreaking to drop a new bike than it is a used one. Also, and I could be wrong because I don't have a dualsport (yet), but if you intend to off-road at all, I'd think the chances of damaging a bike would increase dramatically. And there's that brand new virgin bike sitting under you... I dunno, man. Personally, I'd go used. Debt is debt, whether or not it's from a dealer or a credit card cash advance doesn't make that much of a difference ultimately.
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Dec 1, 2009 20:37
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As mentioned before, a KLR will depreciate like a loving rock. I'm not sure about V-stroms. Personally I'd keep saving and buy used when you can pay cash, especially when you're buying something that if taken off road will eventually be dropped, but ultimately it's your money and your decision.
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Dec 1, 2009 20:56
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Doctor Zero posted:Uh oh. I'm at -15k miles! What should I do??? Sell it before it dissolves into a pile of rust and final drive failures!  Ola posted:It seems like a perfectly researched troll. It's also fun how he talks about his 3D renders' performance in the present. Any good technical reasoning behind the "double wishbone" swingarm? I have no idea. Honestly, he's even more of a novel poster than I am, and he always posted in that weird style with the extra carriage returns. Dunno if he was dictating his posts or what. Radbot posted:A quick question for you all: What's your take on the more expensive new bike (but with great financing) vs. the less expensive used, private party bike (with much more difficult to obtain financing, or "put everything else onto the credit card" financing)? Well, again, this depends on your financial situation. If you can afford the bike, and get a good deal on financing (ie, 0% interest for 12 months or something) then there's no reason to wait and save. But if you've got 4k or so in hand, you should just buy an already farkled new one...it's worth it to travel to get a deal. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/1485545658.html http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/1475145195.html http://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/1480388369.html http://slo.craigslist.org/mcy/1486970499.html http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/mcy/1455112968.html http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mcy/1485308038.html http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mcy/1483034064.html All are options in the 3-4k range.
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Dec 1, 2009 20:56
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Wow, thanks Z3n... when you put it THAT way, it's kinda hard justifying a $7000-8000 purchase when I can get essentially the same thing for HALF. I think I'm just going to go that way. I hope there will be a few around once I save up; I can make it a nice little car trip up to Fontana with the missus!
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Dec 2, 2009 06:15
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Radbot posted:Wow, thanks Z3n... when you put it THAT way, it's kinda hard justifying a $7000-8000 purchase when I can get essentially the same thing for HALF. I think I'm just going to go that way. I hope there will be a few around once I save up; I can make it a nice little car trip up to Fontana with the missus! Friends of mine talk about the good feeling of putting a key in for the first time, turning a bike on, and putting that first tenth of a mile on...I can't see the enjoyment of it because I'm too busy seeing the -2000$ that happens to it's value once I turn the key.  But I do get some great deals on some awesome bikes 
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Dec 2, 2009 06:27
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Z3n posted:Friends of mine talk about the good feeling of putting a key in for the first time, turning a bike on, and putting that first tenth of a mile on...I can't see the enjoyment of it because I'm too busy seeing the -2000$ that happens to it's value once I turn the key. I just silently mock the previous owner while riding off on their bike.
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Dec 2, 2009 06:29
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Z3n posted:Your prayers have been answered: I realize that's just a render, but drat that is one ugly bike.
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Dec 2, 2009 08:35
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Forgive me if I don't sift through 134 pages. As I'm certain my question has already been asked. I've been riding for a few years now. my bike is an 06 CBR 1000. My question, When riding solo, is it acceptable to join up with a group that happens to be traveling on the same road as you? Or is that considered bad form, rude, or outright unsafe? I usually never ride in a group. I have a couple of close friends that I trust enough to ride with in formation. Typically, if I'm out solo, I'll keep my distance if I happen to be near a group of riders in formation. Mostly because I'm not familiar with the proper etiquette. But I also know that bikers tend to get more respect on the road when they ride together. So what's the polite, or generally acceptable thing to do?
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Dec 2, 2009 21:48
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I don't know any exact form, but I'll happily follow a group if I come across one heading in my direction. Usually at a slightly bigger distance than their spacing.
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Dec 2, 2009 22:20
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Ola posted:I don't know any exact form, but I'll happily follow a group if I come across one heading in my direction. Usually at a slightly bigger distance than their spacing. Yeah, this, pretty much. I try and stay polite and courteous, no telling what their skill level is like.
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Dec 2, 2009 22:29
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Ola posted:I don't know any exact form, but I'll happily follow a group if I come across one heading in my direction. Usually at a slightly bigger distance than their spacing. Ditto. I hate when a rider joins up too close to me (or passes me on my right, fuckers), but I usually just get in formation and stay 2-3 seconds back. I do this when I catch up to solo riders, too.
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Dec 3, 2009 01:51
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The Harley guys around here seem to love coming up next to me at a light and revving the piss out of their junk. I just sit there and let them get in front of me as I like to keep the danger in front of me soo I can avoid them easier when they do something dumb, and they always do something dumb.
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Dec 3, 2009 05:14
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I have a noobish question about my '09 Kawasaki Ninja 500r. This is my first winter with a motorcycle and it is just now starting to get cold overnight to where starting my motorcycle is starting to worry me. I live in an apartment complex so I have to park my motorcycle outside where it gets cold. Is it normal for most bikes to have to put the choke all the way on and usually have to try to start it couple times every morning? Also I seems I have to rev the bike for like 30 seconds before I'm confidant enough to where the bike won't stall when I try to ride off (to warm the engine). My motorcycle has about 2500 miles on it. ijii fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 05:23
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Depending on the current conditions it is perfectly normal to need to use the full choke. On my carbed ZX600 I usually found a good position for the choke to use during warmup. I would set it to full to start, once running it would rev up considerably and I would lower the choke until it idle around 4-5k. Then I would let the bike sit there for a few minutes while I did other prep (check lights, put my gloves on, etc) and see the temp needle start to rise. For the first few minutes/miles of riding you want to keep the choke on but gradually lower it until the engine is fully warmed up. It takes a while to get used to operating a manually-choked bike in the winter. Describe your process and maybe one of us could see if there is a missing step. Usually most people either dont use enough choke while starting or completely turn it off once they pull away.
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Dec 4, 2009 05:57
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Took bike into garage... left blinker totally worked. i was pleasantly surprised. lubed my chain and parked him back outside. That night I went for a ride to the gym... left blinker didnt work sometimes i really love how quirky my bike is. Sometimes I just don't get it.
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Dec 4, 2009 08:11
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dietcokefiend posted:Depending on the current conditions it is perfectly normal to need to use the full choke. On my carbed ZX600 I usually found a good position for the choke to use during warmup. I would set it to full to start, once running it would rev up considerably and I would lower the choke until it idle around 4-5k. Then I would let the bike sit there for a few minutes while I did other prep (check lights, put my gloves on, etc) and see the temp needle start to rise. It should also be noted that a valve adjustment and carburetor synchronization/idle mixture adjustment can improve cold idle dramatically. I did my Ninja 250 about a month and two weeks ago, and it went from having difficulty continuing to run when cold (or having a really fast idle with the choke on), to having no trouble at all starting without the choke in 40 degree weather. Consider doing at least the mixture adjustment, it should be an easy task (drilling out a plug and turning a screw) and will probably help a lot, as the bikes seem to come from the factory with the idle mixture set very lean to pass emissions.
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Dec 4, 2009 13:09
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ijii posted:I have a noobish question about my '09 Kawasaki Ninja 500r. This is my first winter with a motorcycle and it is just now starting to get cold overnight to where starting my motorcycle is starting to worry me. Don't rev your bike too much to warm it up. When an engine starts, the oil is sitting in the bottom of the sump and not all over your engine parts. The last thing you want to do is run it hard when the lubrication is sparse. Just start it with full choke, let it warm up for a couple minutes.
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Dec 4, 2009 16:40
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Radbot posted:A quick question for you all: What's your take on the more expensive new bike (but with great financing) vs. the less expensive used, private party bike (with much more difficult to obtain financing, or "put everything else onto the credit card" financing)? First Off, Fun Bike Center is a horrible establishment with an awful track record. Look up consumer reviews before you even think about giving any business your money. Second, there are tons of options on the private market. We live in a great city for riding, selling and owning motorcycles, and even if you cant find it here, we are right next to LA and the Inland Empire. I'd just look for something nice and used. Is this your first bike?
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Dec 4, 2009 21:09
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Alright, need some brainstorming from everyone, if you would. 1991 Suzuki GS500. Has problems staying in gear, as in it would randomly drop into neutral and take sevral up/downshifts to get it to engage again. I asked here a few months back, pretty much it came down to the transmission going south. I waffled on whether I should sell it or not until one day, bored and hopped up on the A-Team theme, I started tearing it down with the intention of swapping out the tranny. After a good long while, I just opened the crankcase today. Problem is though, the gears look great. I don't see any wear on them at all. Now, when I was tearing the thing down, the friction rings are much smoother than they should be(As in, they're toast and need replacing) and the plates themselves are warped. There was also an abundance of black, coarse material in the oil pan. Anyone have an idea of where I should look next? Is this JUST because of the clutch rings, and I didn't have to completely tear down the whole bike?
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Dec 5, 2009 01:37
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Chairon posted:Anyone have an idea of where I should look next? Is this JUST because of the clutch rings, and I didn't have to completely tear down the whole bike? Wait... You tore the entire engine and trans apart before pulling the clutch apart? Or am I just reading this wrong...?
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Dec 5, 2009 07:13
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No, I had the clutch out before tearing down everything else. I'm just second guessing myself, thinking that if this IS a clutch problem I could have avoided tearing the entire thing apart. I was convinced it was the gears, so when I saw the burned up clutch, it was just another problem to be fixed, not the cause of the main problem i'm having.
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Dec 5, 2009 07:43
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ahh, ok... I was gonna say, drat man I understand more now where you're coming from. I do think I would have done the clutch first. I'm kinda lazy, and a clutch is a lot easier and cheaper so I'd have replaced it, adjusted everything out, crossed my fingers and see how it turned out. Worst case you'd be tearing it all back down and would have a new clutch assembly anyway.
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Dec 5, 2009 08:27
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A clutch being out of adjustment can cause what you're describing. However, the gears on the transmission will always look good, what you need to check is the engagement dogs on the side of the gears. They shouldn't be rounded off at the edges at all. I can't tell from your iPhone picture, but it looks like some of the dogs could have wear on them. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Dec 6, 2009 |
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Dec 6, 2009 18:40
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Update on previous post about friend's 1981 Honda CX500C. I have pretty much confirmed that the problem with the bike is the clutch. If I put the bike in gear and hold the clutch in, it's still drat hard to move the bike, so the clutch is definitely not being disengaged fully. The problem is, there's no slack at all in the clutch cable and it looks like it's moving the arm thing on the clutch as far as it will go when the handle is pulled in. So, are these symptoms of a bad clutch? I would have assumed that a bad clutch would just slip a lot, not produce MORE friction and never fully disengage.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:10
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I would think if the steels or clutch plates are warped significantly that would cause it to drag. I've also seen cheap replacement clutch sets that had friction material bonded to the edges which caused disengagement problems.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:39
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Also, how old is the cable? Maybe it has stretched out?
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Dec 7, 2009 16:31
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Update on previous post about friend's 1981 Honda CX500C. I have pretty much confirmed that the problem with the bike is the clutch. If I put the bike in gear and hold the clutch in, it's still drat hard to move the bike, so the clutch is definitely not being disengaged fully. The problem is, there's no slack at all in the clutch cable and it looks like it's moving the arm thing on the clutch as far as it will go when the handle is pulled in. Are you pushing it around in gear and off with the clutch pulled in? Because you get a lot of drag on the clutch even then because it's a multiplate wet clutch. Is it "walking" when you've got it running and in gear with the clutch in, or just hard shifting?
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Dec 7, 2009 18:22
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Is there any reason I should consider a 1000cc V-Strom over a 650cc one? I've read that the extra power really isn't that noticeable, and that most of the difference has to do with top-end (100mph+). Wouldn't the insurance also be quite a bit more on a 1000cc?
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Dec 7, 2009 18:31
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| # ? May 21, 2024 20:32 |
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Radbot posted:Is there any reason I should consider a 1000cc V-Strom over a 650cc one? I've read that the extra power really isn't that noticeable, and that most of the difference has to do with top-end (100mph+). Wouldn't the insurance also be quite a bit more on a 1000cc? I wouldn't, personally. The 650 is lighter, will get better mileage, and is more than sufficient for anything legal. If you're planning on dirt roading it at all, it'll just add to the weight and difficulty of getting it around. Insurance could be more, the bike will be more expensive, there's just not enough there to make it worthwhile.
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Dec 7, 2009 18:33
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