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Also the 1000cc doesn't have an ABS option.
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Dec 7, 2009 19:49
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Radbot posted:Is there any reason I should consider a 1000cc V-Strom over a 650cc one? I've read that the extra power really isn't that noticeable, and that most of the difference has to do with top-end (100mph+). Wouldn't the insurance also be quite a bit more on a 1000cc? Like Z3n said, the 650 is probably more than enough bike. The only thing I'd add to his comment is this: if you plan to ride two up a lot, how big/heavy are you, and, how big/heavy is your passenger?
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Dec 7, 2009 21:02
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Z3n posted:Are you pushing it around in gear and off with the clutch pulled in? Because you get a lot of drag on the clutch even then because it's a multiplate wet clutch. When I push it in gear with clutch pulled in, the bike has a ridiculous amount of resistance and you can not move it faster than a baby's crawl - there's no way you could bump start it, even downhill, for example. When I push it with the clutch out in neutral, it feels just like any other bike I've walked in neutral - no real resistance. I did not notice any movement with the bike if the clutch was pulled in and it was in gear and running. I rode the bike for about 10 minutes and it felt really sluggish, as well. It hesitated a lot, which I'm guessing is due to slightly dirty carbs/jets, but even when I gunned it in 2nd it never really felt like the bike got in its power band. My 1982 CM250C, by comparison, felt much faster. Also, the clutch catches really late. I have to almost completely let the clutch out from a stop before I can get the bike moving, and I have to let it slip a bit even then. FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 22:23
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Also, the clutch catches really late. I have to almost completely let the clutch out from a stop before I can get the bike moving, and I have to let it slip a bit even then. Sounds like it might be the cable then. Take the clutch handle apart, grab the cable with vice grips and pull it as far as you can. See if it rolls easier like that.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:26
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Noob question here: Today is the first real day of rain and heavy winds and it's coming down pretty hard. Is this going to be hazardous to my Ninja 250 if I leave it parked in the driveway sans cover? Parking in the garage would be unfeasible for reasons I won't get into and there isn't much cover except for the rear patio.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:47
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Cablekid posted:Noob question here: Today is the first real day of rain and heavy winds and it's coming down pretty hard. Is this going to be hazardous to my Ninja 250 if I leave it parked in the driveway sans cover? Parking in the garage would be unfeasible for reasons I won't get into and there isn't much cover except for the rear patio. As long as it doesn't blow over, it'll be fine. You may want to put it somewhere sheltered from the winds (and not in the dirt where the sidestand will sink in).
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Dec 7, 2009 23:50
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:When I push it in gear with clutch pulled in, the bike has a ridiculous amount of resistance and you can not move it faster than a baby's crawl - there's no way you could bump start it, even downhill, for example. The behavior with the clutch when it's cold is pretty normal. Again, multiplate wet clutch tends to have a lot of resistance. It sounds like the bike has problems besides the shifting. It's hard to say exactly what. If you've taken all of the slack out of the cable, the clutch will engage very late in it's travel, so that's pretty normal too, and points at it probably not being the clutch. Usually when people have problems shifting bikes, it's because they're pulling in the clutch lever but it's not actually disengaging the clutch plates. Then you are essentially shifting clutchless. You've got the opposite problem, it engages almost immediately. That means shifting shouldn't be problematic.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:52
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I'm going to change my own spark plugs for the first time when I get round to it, is there anything I need to be careful of? Do they need to done up particularly tight?
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Dec 7, 2009 23:54
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2ndclasscitizen posted:is there anything I need to be careful of? Make sure there's no sand or other grap around the plug which can fall into the cylinder when you take out the plug. I usually give mine a decent blast of compressed air before removing plugs but it has an annoying habit of picking up small bits of stone just on the lip near the plug. So I lift the plug out real carefully and use a screwdriver with a dab of grease at the end to pick out the grime. 2ndclasscitizen posted:Do they need to done up particularly tight? No, it's quite easy to ruin those threads and you will cry blood if you do. I think the rule of thumb is finger tight, then 1/4 turn. But do some googling to see what is said about your bike specifically.
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Dec 7, 2009 23:59
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2ndclasscitizen posted:I'm going to change my own spark plugs for the first time when I get round to it, is there anything I need to be careful of? Do they need to done up particularly tight? What you do is you thread them in by hand as to not cross thread them. Then once you feel them bottom you take them down an additional 1/4th to 2/3rds turn, to crush the crush washer. The exact amount will be printed on the side of the spark plug box. I usually err on the looser side. Obviously, you don't do that if you're reusing plugs. They should be snug but not torqued down super hard. You don't want to strip out the heads, after all. Also, you may need to use a standard deepset socket to get down to the plugs on a modern I4. They're really recessed into the head due to the dohc config of modern bikes. I can't get a spark plug wrench into most of them, so I just use a standard 17?mm socket and then a magnet to get the plug out. Depending on the design of the bike, you'll also probably have to drop the socket down the hole and then attach the short extension and then attach the rachet. Ola's advice about dirt is good, I didn't even think of that.
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Dec 8, 2009 00:02
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What's the difference between a spark plug wrench and a normal socket? I'm pretty sure I've got a 17mm socket (might have to get a 1/4inch extension though, only have an extension for my awesome dinky $15 3/8 socket set), but don't think I've got a spark plug one.
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Dec 8, 2009 00:15
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2ndclasscitizen posted:What's the difference between a spark plug wrench and a normal socket? I'm pretty sure I've got a 17mm socket (might have to get a 1/4inch extension though, only have an extension for my awesome dinky $15 3/8 socket set), but don't think I've got a spark plug one. It's got a rubber plug in it that's supposed to capture the end of the plug to help pull it out. Nothing special. It is usually a fair bit wider to fit that rubber piece though, and it's also a deepset socket. Any deepset will work. I'm not sure what size it needs to be, 17 is just what i thought it was for my bike (NGK plugs) off the top of my head.
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Dec 8, 2009 00:16
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Hmmm, might have to venture to the hardware store after buying plugs. Or venture into the untamed retard wilderness of Gixxer.com.
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Dec 8, 2009 00:27
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I can't get the plug out of my KLR without a plug wrench. My socket isn't long enough to make it all the way down on the plug to be able to turn it. I just have a 3/8" drive socket set though.
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Dec 8, 2009 02:02
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Pretty sure most MC plugs are 18mm. All of the ones in my bikes have been.
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Dec 8, 2009 03:05
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If you can get one in the right size, I really like these: You should be able to get at just about any plug, and they have a much better feel for tightening the plugs than a normal socket wrench does. Also they're like $5.
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Dec 8, 2009 04:12
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BlueBayou posted:Took bike into garage... left blinker totally worked. i was pleasantly surprised. lubed my chain and parked him back outside. That night I went for a ride to the gym... left blinker didnt work
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Dec 8, 2009 05:33
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sounds like it's time to find the bad wiring the PO did when they cafed(?) that bike.
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Dec 8, 2009 05:39
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She probably just needs to add more smoke to the wiring.
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Dec 8, 2009 06:09
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I have a pretty big hole in my exhaust that came about from my chain slicing into it (long story). I've fixed the issue causing the hole so now I want to get the pipe fixed. I know nothing of welding, or fixing exhausts. The section of pipe thats cut is titanium and a new one would run like $400+ (obscure brand). Would you guys recommend I take it to a welder, or a pipe shop or something and see if they can patch it up?
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Dec 8, 2009 16:19
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Yeah, that would be my first stop, get a few prices. Why replace when you can repair? They also make exhaust tape that you just wrap around it then ride it, and it seals up. It's only a temporary fix, though.
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Dec 8, 2009 23:30
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Chairon posted:Yeah, that would be my first stop, get a few prices. Why replace when you can repair? They also make exhaust tape that you just wrap around it then ride it, and it seals up. It's only a temporary fix, though. Is this different than header wrap? Details?
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Dec 9, 2009 00:43
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Chairon posted:Yeah, that would be my first stop, get a few prices. Why replace when you can repair? They also make exhaust tape that you just wrap around it then ride it, and it seals up. It's only a temporary fix, though. Yes, I too want more details. I have two pin sized holes and really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for new pipes.
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Dec 9, 2009 01:18
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I used this that I saw at Kragens. All you do is unroll it, wrap it nice and tight around the hole, then once the exhaust pipe heats up I guess it seals somehow. I've had mine on there for a few months now and it's still on. Of course I only put 50 miles on it but hey 
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Dec 9, 2009 01:47
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I've got a 2004 GS500 I noticed this morning when filling up and attempting to reset the trip distance gauge on the odometer that the little dial thingy has either broken off or unscrewed itself (see attached picture) is this something that can be fixed easily or am I going to have to hunt around for a while to find something that would fix it (short of replacing the whole gauge cluster).
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Dec 14, 2009 01:38
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Aargh posted:I've got a 2004 GS500 I noticed this morning when filling up and attempting to reset the trip distance gauge on the odometer that the little dial thingy has either broken off or unscrewed itself (see attached picture) is this something that can be fixed easily or am I going to have to hunt around for a while to find something that would fix it (short of replacing the whole gauge cluster). Checked on my '91, it's just a little screw and a knob. Bikebandit has a schematic up for your year though, You want numbers 2 and 3. I guess it would be kind of a bitch if the screw snapped off, but I doubt it unless you've dropped it. Should just be a five minutes job.
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Dec 14, 2009 02:21
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Chairon posted:Checked on my '91, it's just a little screw and a knob. Bikebandit has a schematic up for your year though, You want numbers 2 and 3. I guess it would be kind of a bitch if the screw snapped off, but I doubt it unless you've dropped it. Should just be a five minutes job. Yeah I haven't dropped it at all and from looking in it seemed as though there was a threaded (female) brass part in there which I assume is what it screws into.
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Dec 14, 2009 02:31
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I posted this in another thread, but looking at this bike more and more I am starting to love it.  http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1491391358.html Does the ZX-10R have any known reliability problems? How does it rate in tooting around town and doing highway work? Any ideas on gas mileage? Looking for something a bit faster than the SV but still usable on the highway. Most of the roads around here can see 100-130 safely with the looooong smooth roads and light traffic with entrances only every 2-3 miles. The SV starts to fall flat at 90-100. I also want something that has more power when ~50lbs of gear is added to the back. For shits and giggles I did an insurance check and it is actually not that bad to insure. Much cheaper than most of the 600s and 1000s I was looking at.
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Dec 14, 2009 07:39
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Ok so I know this is a long shot but... Should I sell my BMW F650 once I get my new to me R100GSPD or will there be enough of a difference for me to warrant keeping both bikes? I'm kind of leaning towards selling the F650, but I'm not sure the R100 will give me as much of a sporty ride. Background info: I live on an island with a mere 100 miles of roads, only 75 of which are paved. Those sections that are paved though are worthy of a WRC stage and I feel I have just scratched the surface of what is possible on them. Is there a cheap bike out there that I could get to scratch my twisty/cornering itch while still allowing me to use my new GS to its full potential or should I wait and see how the GS fills this role? Edit: here are some typical stretches of road here. First one is part of the longer stretch, second one is a video I took from my crash bar mounted video camera on the F650. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqrIRWQtM5s http://www.youtube.com/user/N183CS#p/a/u/1/1o6Y6cEZ8Sc N183CS fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Dec 14, 2009 |
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Dec 14, 2009 07:51
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I think you should see how your GS does. If it doesn't satisfy you then spend winter putting hop-up parts on it and adjusting the suspension until it feels sufficiently sporty. Look here for inspiration: http://www.hpn.de/english/motorraeder.html Frankly, any standard 650 single is going to be far from sporty and I don't think you'll miss it after you start riding the GS. Sure, it'll be heavier, but work on your turn-in skills and the extra power will reward. If the GS isn't enough, find a bike with a superior power to weight, or insanity to weight ratio. The F650 ain't it, and it's not going to be cheap either. May as well put the money in the GS I think. Also consider asking the GSpot collective at advrider.com. If you're bored in winter, contemplate the following: http://www.bmwmoa.org/images/gallery/Hubert_7.jpg Studs + sidecar = good times. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Dec 15, 2009 |
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Dec 15, 2009 05:19
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MotoMind posted:
Exhibit K http://www.ktm690duke.com/
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Dec 15, 2009 05:45
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N183CS posted:Is there a cheap bike out there that I could get to scratch my twisty/cornering itch Ninja 250
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Dec 15, 2009 05:50
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Zool posted:Exhibit K http://www.ktm690duke.com/ "Standard" was shorthand for "antiquated 80s technology" 650 single. KTMs and such are naturally quite inspiring.
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Dec 15, 2009 06:12
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Sell the F650, if your not satisfied with the sportiness of the GS, you probably will be at least for a while.... I bet there are some plated dirt bikes for sale on that island; get one, and a set of 17" wheels to mount sticky street tires on.
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Dec 15, 2009 06:36
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I have a sort of related question. When you have two sets of rims for offroad/street tires, do you swap over the brake discs? Having two sets of disks seems expensive and perhaps the pads would need rebedding every time you swapped.
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Dec 15, 2009 13:19
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Ola posted:I have a sort of related question. When you have two sets of rims for offroad/street tires, do you swap over the brake discs? Having two sets of disks seems expensive and perhaps the pads would need rebedding every time you swapped. If you have the money you can upgrade to street disc and hub...at risk of dinging your 97987^50mm front disc off-road.
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Dec 15, 2009 15:27
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dietcokefiend posted:I posted this in another thread, but looking at this bike more and more I am starting to love it. My friend bought an '05 ZX-10 new and it has been perfectly reliable for 35,000 miles. He upgraded from an SV-1000 and he says the Ninja is a shitload faster. If you're planning on doing 100-130 regularly, prepare to start shelling out for new tires every few months.
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Dec 15, 2009 20:32
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Tearing apart the SV right now and curious if I would be able to wash the components under the fairings without damaging anything. The last trip I went on got what appears to be sand over everything and it looks terrible. With the fairings off would it hurt the wiring, relays, or ECU if I sprayed all the stuff wet, used a brush to suds it up, and then spray it clean again?
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Dec 16, 2009 05:25
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Shouldnt hurt anything, just dont use much pressure.
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Dec 16, 2009 05:28
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dietcokefiend posted:I posted this in another thread, but looking at this bike more and more I am starting to love it. That model is utterly batshit insane, and yet still capable of being perfectly civil. A Kawasaki basically. Buy it. And piss of that high mount pipe, they always, without fail, look so drat stupid on bikes that didn't have them stock.
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Dec 16, 2009 17:02
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