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For any goons in the Cincinnati area, this just popped up on craigslist: http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/1492125554.html Red 1990 with hard top. Looks to be in decent shape, $1500. If I had the space, I would have already called about it. If it were black, I would have been on my way to see it and buy it, to resell the car minus the hard top for about the same price.
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Dec 2, 2009 23:57
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| # ? May 14, 2024 07:34 |
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Yeah I think mine was coming from a small hole (you can just see it in the centre of that pic) which leads up underneath the parcel shelf. I think water couldn't get down the drain tube so was filling up underneath the parcel shelf and running out of that hole I poured water all over the boot and the tail lights and it was all good, and that small hole had wetness around it, so that's still my hypothesis 
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Dec 3, 2009 02:43
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My original softtop is looking pretty rough. I was looking on Miata.net's classified board and found this; http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show about 4 hours away. Same color as my car and as far as I can tell, same year (1999). He's asking $1200, thoughts? I'm gonna need a new top either way.
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Dec 4, 2009 16:43
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velocityJE posted:My original softtop is looking pretty rough. I was looking on Miata.net's classified board and found this; http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cl...prevaction=show about 4 hours away. Same color as my car and as far as I can tell, same year (1999). He's asking $1200, thoughts? I'm gonna need a new top either way. $1200 is high average price for these. I have the same car as you (color and all), and I waited out and got a silver hardtop from a '94 (with rear defrost, headliner, etc) for $600 in MA in the fall of 2008. Granted, mine is a bit scuffy on top (nothing a bit of buffing won't eventually fix), but it's otherwise flawless. You're in hardtop season now, and they're always in high-demand, so this may be about as good as it gets in your area. Nonetheless, if you CAN survive without it, it'd be best to wait it out. Also, I got a softtop with frame (as my car's top came to me with duct-taped speedholes) for $600 as well. It takes a few hours to figure out how to remove it, but it's MUCH better getting it with frame than pulling a new one on your old frame.
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Dec 4, 2009 20:35
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DreamOn13 posted:I did it to only the bottom of the seat, and now it's really uncomfortable to sit in for over half an hour. It didn't really lower me that much, either. Taking some foam out of the back would maybe help with the comfort, but otherwise it didn't really work well for me. Are you mounting them straight to the floor? I have Forza's in my miata on the mazda rails, and I sit pretty much at stock height. I also can't move it back as much (but I don't need to since the seat is thinner) because the wings hit the body where the frankenbolt for the boot cover is.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:44
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Tactical Bonnet posted:drip drip. Rain rail. The water doesn't get into the rail, so it leaks onto the shelf behind the seats under the carpet, and then it has about 78192379802374 holes through which to leak into the trunk. Replace rain rail, enjoy life.
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Dec 5, 2009 01:33
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Yeah I've thought about that. How hard is it to replace the rain rail? Do you have to take the whole top off?
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Dec 5, 2009 06:23
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mafoose posted:Are you mounting them straight to the floor? Yep. I don't think I really have any other options to get under that roll bar. Do the seats fit in the car pretty well though? Do you have an NA? Seems like some say they're too wide, some say they're fine.
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Dec 5, 2009 15:39
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Shlomo Palestein posted:$1200 is high average price for these. I have the same car as you (color and all), ...You're in hardtop season now, and they're always in high-demand, so this may be about as good as it gets in your area. Nonetheless, if you CAN survive without it, it'd be best to wait it out. Yeah, I have a 2000 LS, and I've been looking at hard tops for a while now. But they're not cheap, and it's so easy to reach up and put the top down if it's nice out on a random winter day. I think I'd miss that more than anything I'd gain by having a hard top on the car.
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Dec 6, 2009 03:52
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Lusso posted:Yeah, I have a 2000 LS, and I've been looking at hard tops for a while now. But they're not cheap, and it's so easy to reach up and put the top down if it's nice out on a random winter day. I think I'd miss that more than anything I'd gain by having a hard top on the car. Bear in mind his soft top is about to bite it, by his description. I was in the same boat, and if I hadn't gotten the hardtop when I did, I'd almost certainly have been replacing a soaked/moldy interior last spring. I just got lucky and found a hardtop cheap; if I found a soft-on-frame for $600 before, I'd have bought that instead, but things sort of worked in reverse.
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Dec 6, 2009 15:09
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Bear in mind his soft top is about to bite it, by his description. I was in the same boat, and if I hadn't gotten the hardtop when I did, I'd almost certainly have been replacing a soaked/moldy interior last spring. I just got lucky and found a hardtop cheap; if I found a soft-on-frame for $600 before, I'd have bought that instead, but things sort of worked in reverse. Yeah, mine kind of is on it's last legs. It's not completely terrible and I've patched a couple small holes and while it'll probably last the winter I do need something fairly soon. The fact I wouldn't have to get it repainted is appealing as well.
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Dec 7, 2009 00:49
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While certainly not cheap, but cheaper than a hard top, I was able to replace my factory soft top (14 years old at the time) with a brand new Robbins soft top with a zipperless glass window for around $900. I bought the top myself from Moss Motors (IIRC) for around $430 with some 15% off coupon, and then had it installed at the best convertible specialty shop in town for around another $450. You could install it yourself, but it's a pain in the rear end and to me it was worth the peace of mind to know it was done by the best in the business. The quality is just as good, if not better, than the OEM soft top in my opinion, plus the zipperless glass windows is a HUGE improvement over the acrylic window. The new top has gone through 2 relatively harsh winters without any problems or leaks or anything, and I have full confidence it will make it through many more. I don't care about the cabin noise (honestly, I kind of prefer being able to hear everything), and preserving the convenience of just being able to drop the top on the odd nice winter day for a brisk top-down adventure is great. Plus if your car is a "rare" color like mine (Merlot Mica), it saves you the enormous hassle of finding a matching hard top or having to get a hardtop resprayed. In a nutshell, a good soft top will stand up just fine to rain and snow while costing quite a bit less than a hard top.
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Dec 7, 2009 02:44
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I have had no problems with the vinyl top on either my 90 or my 08, except the z-fold design on the NC makes it a little more difficult to put down when it's chilly. Cold shifting has been kind of whack with the 6-speed, I may investigate a different fluid or something.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:30
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Guinness posted:While certainly not cheap, but cheaper than a hard top, I was able to replace my factory soft top (14 years old at the time) with a brand new Robbins soft top with a zipperless glass window for around $900. I bought the top myself from Moss Motors (IIRC) for around $430 with some 15% off coupon, and then had it installed at the best convertible specialty shop in town for around another $450. You could install it yourself, but it's a pain in the rear end and to me it was worth the peace of mind to know it was done by the best in the business. The quality is just as good, if not better, than the OEM soft top in my opinion, plus the zipperless glass windows is a HUGE improvement over the acrylic window. The new top has gone through 2 relatively harsh winters without any problems or leaks or anything, and I have full confidence it will make it through many more.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:35
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velocityJE posted:eh, 300 dollars difference + the hard top makes the car look a bit sportier, i think i'll spring for it. Plus your hard top can never be slashed. Having your top slashed sucks. Especially when it happens twice. In the winter. Soft tops are gay.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:44
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Are Eibach sportlines a bad idea on a daily driver NC? I'm thinking about buying a set to improve handling and remove the wheel gap, but don't want to end up killing my back in the process. No idea what to expect in terms of ride quality, so I'm looking for info from people who have experience with aftermarket springs. edit #1: gently caress it, I've wanted to do this for years and my GF's friend will put them in at a low price. Where should I order them from? edit #2: AutoAnything has them for $219 with free shipping, and has 5 stars from 2000 ratings on Google Shopping. edit #3: I think I just answered my own question and was mostly looking for validation on something I've wanted to do for a while. It was this or a core i5/mb/ram or a SSD. I'd use the latter two more, but this has been on the list for longer. edit: #4: I'm going to order them today if someone can confirm that what I linked to will work in my car, (2006 model) that it's a reputable place to order from etc. (Which I should already be able to infer from the google ratings and the fact that it lets you select model and 2006 miata is one of them) Just tell me to buy the drat springs. Thanks. edit #5: Ordered. Dominoes fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 19:24
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gah. nevermind
Coffee Jones fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 20:30
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So, how much could I expect to spend turbocharging a 1.8? Disregarding junk ebay/chinese kits, what would a fairly common or low-end setup run me?
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Dec 8, 2009 05:41
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BEGi (bellengineering.net) has some low end setups that use Chinese turbos (which they seem to be content with) for $1500. My car has one of their older "stage 2" kits with a Garrett GT2554. They seem to run about $3500 nowadays. That doesn't factor in the BS cost of all the little knickknacks or tools you have to buy though. The BEGi kits are almost entirely complete with hardware and such though. Part of what you're paying for is ease of installation. You can also go the DIY route and source the turbo and all the odds and ends yourself. Even then, it's still worthwhile to get the manifold and downpipe from BEGi or Flying Miata. For fuel management on the cheap, MegaSquirt is your best bet really. You can get one prebuilt (MegaSquirt Plug N Play) for $800 or maybe Baby Hitler can build you one for cheap.
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Dec 8, 2009 06:08
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DreamOn13 posted:Yep. I don't think I really have any other options to get under that roll bar. Do the seats fit in the car pretty well though? Do you have an NA? Seems like some say they're too wide, some say they're fine. They fit on the stock rails like I stated and work really good til the last 2-3inches. In the last bit they would fit fine if the rails would offset the seat towards the trans tunnel, but if you do that you wouldn't be able to slide it forward enough to bolt it down in the back (at least easily). I have a 94 and with the Miata rails attached it dented my crashpad slightly. I also had to mount a little strip of metal (1/8 mild steel) to be able to bolt up the belt receiver as it is mounted to the seats on the 1.8s. .JPG) You can see that bit by the end that hits if I try to go back further.
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Dec 8, 2009 08:40
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Hog Obituary posted:For fuel management on the cheap, MegaSquirt is your best bet really. You can get one prebuilt (MegaSquirt Plug N Play) for $800 or maybe Baby Hitler can build you one for cheap.
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Dec 8, 2009 09:58
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How about supercharging, as it relates to the miata? As far as I understand it, turbocharging produces spikes of power at high RPMs while superchargering is a general increase in hp across all RPMs, is one better than the other for miatas? From what I've seen turbos are more popular for some reason, what is the difference in cost/performance between the two?
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Dec 8, 2009 15:52
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I think the main issue of adding a supercharger to a Miata is that while they do add power relatively equally through the rev range, a stock Miata has very little down low power anyway - and adding something to nothing still doesn't result in much. It's a light enough car that's geared aggressively enough that low-end grunt, though it is lacking, is not really a concern. A turbo will let you make more power more easily on the high end of the rev range, where any Miata getting flogged should be spending the majority of its time. On top of that, a reasonably sized turbo on a properly configured car will not have any serious lag or sudden power delivery issues. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Dec 8, 2009 |
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Dec 8, 2009 16:16
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Ok, so if I went with a kit like this: http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?cPath=140_141&products_id=243 are there any additional costs that I need to consider outside of tools/expertise, or is the kit pretty complete?
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Dec 8, 2009 16:46
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MSPNP.
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Dec 8, 2009 17:23
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The kit is mostly complete with hardware and hose clamps and whatnot. It just doesn't have a wideband O2 sensor which means you'll be tuning by feel mostly. This is acceptable with the FMU, but if you go to better engine management you'll want a wideband. I think you can get an Innovate LC1 for like $200 or so. Also yes, MSPNP is a much better fueling option. If you go that route you'll need to add the cost of injectors too. FWIW, I wouldn't call you stupid for purchasing a BEGI-S kit.
Hog Obituary fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Dec 8, 2009 |
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Dec 8, 2009 17:27
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I would love to turbocharge my Miata, but I'd need to keep it OBD-II kosher and as far as I can tell that adds a considerable bit of expense to the whole shebang...which means I'd probably either buy a '90-'95, or just get something else.
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Dec 8, 2009 17:38
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Dominoes posted:Are Eibach sportlines a bad idea on a daily driver NC? I'm thinking about buying a set to improve handling and remove the wheel gap, but don't want to end up killing my back in the process. No idea what to expect in terms of ride quality, so I'm looking for info from people who have experience with aftermarket springs.
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Dec 8, 2009 17:39
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Ok, so MSPNP is just regarded as a better management system than what comes packaged with the kit? Also, after doing some reading, it looks like the MSPNP is something I can play with before even going to turbo, which appeals to me. How much of a benefit does it add to a normal NA engine? It's like 700 bucks, is it really worth it if you're not going to turbo the engine soon, or additionally, is it 700 bucks better than what you'd get with the begi kit?
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Dec 8, 2009 17:40
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The Third Man posted:How much of a benefit does it add to a normal NA engine? It's like 700 bucks, is it really worth it if you're not going to turbo the engine soon, or additionally, is it 700 bucks better than what you'd get with the begi kit? The $700 doesn't come with a wideband sensor, does it? Setting up MS would get you well grounded in engine power and management theory, which would make you that much more comfortable with tuning the turbo kit. I can't remember which, but I think an 08 issue of Grassroots Motorsports documents installing a BEGI 1.6 kit; would be worth your reading if you're thinking of doing it yourself. I would budget some hours of a shop's time for them to do that for you, plus tuning time if you want them to tune it for you.
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Dec 8, 2009 17:58
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This is all down the road a ways, but if it gets me some good experience then I would call it more than worth it. For reference, this is what I was looking at: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtpnp-mm9495-for-the-199495-mazda-miata-manual-tranny-p-166.html It's mostly gibberish to me at this point.
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Dec 8, 2009 18:02
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Hog Obituary posted:tuning by feel mostly. or, in layman's terms, blowing up an engine every couple of months. If you don't have the car professionally tuned, a wideband is a absolute 100% must have, no questions asked. You can DIY a "basic" kit for around $3000-3500, including a new clutch, aluminum radiator, gauges, etc.
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Dec 8, 2009 18:08
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Eh, it'll let you tune the stock engine and muck around with timing and fueling. I don't know how much more power there really is to be had on the stock engine. Also, if you're so inclined you can save money (at the cost of time) and build your own MS. You'll probably learn a lot about engine management in the process too. The only thing is that MS is not CARB legal and you probably won't be able to pass the emissions functional test because your check engine light and diagnostic connector won't work.
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Dec 8, 2009 18:10
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 Miata success.
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Dec 8, 2009 23:10
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The Third Man posted:How about supercharging, as it relates to the miata? As far as I understand it, turbocharging produces spikes of power at high RPMs while superchargering is a general increase in hp across all RPMs, is one better than the other for miatas? From what I've seen turbos are more popular for some reason, what is the difference in cost/performance between the two? That said the Rotrex is loving awesome. You can toss one in three hours. Matlock posted:
destructo fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 01:41
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Matlock posted:
gently caress yes Ohio.
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Dec 9, 2009 02:07
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I prefer the "top down strapped to the bar behind the seats" method, but I was only hauling a cart, not a carcass.
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Dec 9, 2009 02:30
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mafoose posted:Thanks for the pic. What are you referring to when you say "crashpad"? I just picked up a couple Forza seats actually and will mount them to the floor. Hopefully it all works out and I'm well under the roll bar.
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Dec 9, 2009 04:40
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destructo posted:There is a good reason why the supercharger section on miataturbo.net is essentially a running joke. If you're not going to buy a Rotrex, don't bother. The Rotrex looks kind of neat, but it's still $3700. The power claims on the Rotrex look really similar to that of a $2000 BEGI-S turbo kit. Or only $1500 if you get the Chinacharger-based kit instead of a Garrett. Plus there's tons of room to grow with an entry-level BEGI kit if you get addicted to boostu. Are there actually sensible reasons to go with the Rotrex kit for almost twice the price? Quick and simple install is nice and all, but it's not like the BEGI kits require a rocket scientist.
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Dec 9, 2009 04:52
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| # ? May 14, 2024 07:34 |
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I wouldn't have the slighest issue buying a pre-supercharged Miata, but its high price/hp compared to the BEGI Chinacharger or even some amalgamation of the Greddy kit and eBay parts makes it less attractive. The steady torque might be attractive to certain buyers. Some people want set-it and forget-it stuff, and even with a GT2554R, theres a small amount of lag.
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Dec 9, 2009 05:05
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