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2ndclasscitizen posted:Buy it. And piss of that high mount pipe, they always, without fail, look so drat stupid on bikes that didn't have them stock. Why cant anyone make an aftermarket high mount that doesnt make the link pipe so obvious and goony. It just screams "THIS DOESNT BELONG HERE BUT I PUT IT HERE ANYWAY". They need to find a way to hide that thing somewhat.
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Dec 16, 2009 17:06
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Phat_Albert posted:Why cant anyone make an aftermarket high mount that doesnt make the link pipe so obvious and goony. It just screams "THIS DOESNT BELONG HERE BUT I PUT IT HERE ANYWAY". They need to find a way to hide that thing somewhat. The only decent ones I ever see are custom jobs with no mufflers. To look better/neater the pipe needs to run up behind the motor, like bikes with undertail pipes as standard have. It'd have to be a Racefit Growler and nothing else on that Crim.
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Dec 16, 2009 18:40
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I just got an old KLR and after putting the stock exhaust on, it rubs against the edge of the rear tire when the suspension is compressed. They're pretty big knobby tires. Is there some sort of spacer between the muffler and where it mounts on the bike or is the tire just too big? I'm looking at a parts diagram and I'm not seeing a spacer, so I'm guessing it's the tire.
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Dec 17, 2009 04:31
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buildmyrigdotcom posted:I just got an old KLR and after putting the stock exhaust on, it rubs against the edge of the rear tire when the suspension is compressed. They're pretty big knobby tires. Is there some sort of spacer between the muffler and where it mounts on the bike or is the tire just too big? I'm looking at a parts diagram and I'm not seeing a spacer, so I'm guessing it's the tire. There isn't. I had this exact problem on my 2nd-gen KLR. I ended up pushing the muffler out with some washers. Doublecheck your wheel alignment just to be on the safe side, though.
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Dec 17, 2009 08:20
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So... my Ninjette is broken down (wiring short or something somewhere). It's been down since the end of November. A friend of mine has a multimeter. He was planning on helping me find the short, but he had to leave in advance of the snow storm yesterday/today. So I couldn't do anything - the engine hasn't been started up since November. I plan on going out of state for the holidays very soon. Since I would resume working on the bike in January, what should I do to "winterize" the bike for now? Snow started coming down last week, and I'm in upstate NY. There's the dilemma of the outdoors - it's outside, under a cover. I read on the Ninja wiki that not starting up an engine on a basis would result in rust developing in the cylinders, and oil gunking up the system or something. My brake discs are rusting up a bit, should I attack them with steel wool before I leave? What are your recommendations on what I should do to my bike before I leave the state?
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Dec 20, 2009 03:25
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Ideally, you'd want to fill the tank with gas and Stabil, then run it for 15 minutes or so to get the Stabil in the carbs, but since you can't do that, try to get it full, at least. Leave the rotors alone since it's just surface rust and will wear away the first time you ride it again.
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Dec 20, 2009 03:48
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the walkin dude posted:So... my Ninjette is broken down (wiring short or something somewhere). It's been down since the end of November. I would do the tank fill and Stabil for sure. See if you can get at the float drains at the carbs as well and empty them. Rust in the tank and gunk in the carbs is where you run into problems with storing a bike.
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Dec 20, 2009 03:50
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Thanks, guys. I'm hoping the poor thing survives the winter.
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Dec 21, 2009 00:47
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Has anyone ever seen one of these in use? http://www.etrailer.com/p-RHMC1SV.htm I guess if you dont care about your tire, or you're only going a small distance it could be OK, but drat, I cant see this working well at all.
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Dec 21, 2009 01:21
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Phat_Albert posted:Has anyone ever seen one of these in use? for that price you might as well buy a versa haul if you're just pulling a dirt bike or something
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Dec 21, 2009 02:05
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Isn't that bad for the transmission, too, since the chain/belt/shaft is still turning it?
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Dec 21, 2009 02:21
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Endless Mike posted:Isn't that bad for the transmission, too, since the chain/belt/shaft is still turning it? It could contribute to bearing failure.
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Dec 21, 2009 02:26
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Endless Mike posted:Isn't that bad for the transmission, too, since the chain/belt/shaft is still turning it? It says specifically to remove the chain on that page. It also says belt/shaft drive are good for 55-65 mph. Not sure I believe that one.
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Dec 21, 2009 22:12
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dietcokefiend posted:I posted this in another thread, but looking at this bike more and more I am starting to love it. I can't see the posting because it was deleted so I don’t know what year it was, but I own a 06 ZX-10 with 13k miles, reliability has been fine so far with no major issues other than the required basic maintenance. the one thing I had to change sooner than I expected was my clutch at 10000 miles but I think it’s my own fault, I took it to the drag strip a few times and people have told my its typical to replace the clutches often when doing that. The bike has a very Jekyll and Hyde personality, it is perfectly happy to putter around town at 3500-4000rpm and is very tame under 5500-6000rpm (this puts your around 60mph in 1st). I like the aspect of not really having to shift in town, 95% of the time in the city I’m in 2nd gear. i get about 30mpg in the city The Mr. Hyde aspect of the bike comes out at anything above 6500-7k rpm, after that the power comes on very fast and will get you in trouble with the cops around here, 1st tops out at about 105mph with stock gearing, 6th gear top speed is 182mph indicated. i don't get to play in rpm range very often, its just too dangerous on the street and when i do i pick my spots very carefully. Highway riding is fine and the power doesn’t start to fall flat until about 150mph, you wont really notice 50lbs on the back. i ride 2up prety often and as far as power goes its almost unnoticable (handling is another story). For a lack of a better term the bike feels at "home" at around 95mph in 6th gear on the highway, it’s puttering along at 3500rpm at that speed so engine noise is minimal and everything just feels right. i usualy get about 40mpg on the highway. I can't really think of anything bad to say about the bike other than unless you have quite a bit of experience riding don't get one, i would probably have killed myself if i had bought it when i was 22-23 (i'm 32 now for reference). you need a lot of self control to not get yourself in trouble on one of these, and even then you still might. I've had a few close calls with the po-po and i almost fliped it over at the drag strip.
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Dec 22, 2009 00:15
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Not a motorcycle, but it's a two stroke with a carb, so I figure here's the best place to get help. Our snow blower doesn't want to run. I was clearing the driveway for a bit, and then it just up and stopped. It'll start for a couple of seconds if it is primed, but putter out quickly. If you keep pressing prime like a maniac, it'll run. I'm guessing there's a fueling issue somewhere because of that. It ran fine for the 5 minutes or so we ran it a few weeks back before the snow fell and I did get most of the driveway done before it shut off. What should I check?
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Dec 22, 2009 21:06
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Not sure if this has been asked before but something happened on my bike last night and again this morning that has me a little shaken. Last night riding home on the 10 west in LA, when I pulled back the throttle, my bike accelerated normally, but at a certain point my RPMs shot way up. Felt almost disconnected from the wheel, as if I was revving in neutral. I let off the throttle for a second and slowly cranked it back up and it didn't happen again. That happened again this morning. Also, this morning while making a quick start from a stop light, on the chain side of the bike I heard/felt a click, as if the chain missed the sprocket or something. Happens whenever I gun it from a standstill, if I slowly accelerate off the line it doesn't happen, but if I push hard, I hear (and to an extent feel) a "thunk" and then it engages. Any clues fellow goons?
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Dec 22, 2009 21:30
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Clutch plates? Have you adjusted your chain tension lately?
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Dec 22, 2009 21:33
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blugu64 posted:Clutch plates? Have you adjusted your chain tension lately? I have not. How would I go about doing that? Those two bolts on the very ends of the swingarm right? ari.gato fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Dec 22, 2009 |
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Dec 22, 2009 23:46
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Yep, that's what they're for. You should be able to find the recommended chain slack for your bike online (I don't know if this is universal thing, someone back me up). Take your measurements from the bottom run of the chain, midway between the front and rear sprockets. To do so, pull the chain up as high as it will go, make note of the very peak of its stretch, and then pull it down as low as it will go, again measuring the top of the chain. The distance between top and bottom stretch is your slack measurement. Like so. Also, if the chain is difficult to bring within these limits without ridiculous adjustment, you may need to replace it depending on how old it is and how much stress it's gone through with the knocking you mentioned. edit: Your sprockets may even be worn. AncientTV fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Dec 23, 2009 |
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Dec 23, 2009 01:03
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It's a good idea to check in multiple places, too, to make sure the chain is in okay shape.
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Dec 23, 2009 01:11
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Speaking of chains and sprockets and whatnot, has anyone here been torque-crazy enough to do a -1/+3 sprocket setup? I hadn't noticed what setup the PO had on my project bike thusfar, but as I was doing a final checkover the other day I happened to count the teeth. Is this thing going to be wheelie happy even though its an ex500?
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Dec 23, 2009 |
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Dec 23, 2009 01:19
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AncientTV posted:You should be able to find the recommended chain slack for your bike online (I don't know if this is universal thing, someone back me up). I bet most bikes are somewhat in the same range, but I'd look it up in your bikes service manual to be sure. Here's a fancy british chap explaining it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Div21GLJ2gk
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Dec 23, 2009 02:41
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blugu64 posted:I bet most bikes are somewhat in the same range, but I'd look it up in your bikes service manual to be sure.
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Dec 23, 2009 04:08
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ari.gato posted:I have not. How would I go about doing that? Those two bolts on the very ends of the swingarm right? Adjust your chain tension. Then fix your clutch, which is slipping.
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Dec 23, 2009 04:46
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How exactly does the sensor work that knows when the clutch is engaged when you start a bike? I have a 92 GS500 and it takes a particular black magic on holding the clutch in a certain way to start it. Is it something I can easily replace like a front brake light sensor or is it deeper in the bike? Its not a big deal, but if I ever wanted to sell it, it would be something I'd want to fix. (omg ur bike doesn't start hurr)
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Dec 23, 2009 17:34
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Zool posted:Adjust your chain tension. Then fix your clutch, which is slipping. How hard is it to replace a clutch on a bike? Is that something I should go to a pro for?
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Dec 23, 2009 18:15
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Was hanging out with a girl last weekend and she said her boyfriend had an "Apree-Ya" Have I been pronouncing "Uh-pril-E-Uh" wrong this whole time?
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Dec 23, 2009 19:27
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CSi-NA-EJ7 posted:Was hanging out with a girl last weekend and she said her boyfriend had an "Apree-Ya" Have I been pronouncing "Uh-pril-E-Uh" wrong this whole time? http://www.forvo.com/word/aprilia There's definitely an L in there. It's not exaggerated, but it's present. "Apree-ya" misses a bunch of the letters in the name.  ari.gato posted:How hard is it to replace a clutch on a bike? Is that something I should go to a pro for? Nah, clutches are easy on bikes. Remove the clutch cover, remove 4-8 clutch bolts, remove clutch basket cover, remove plates, put in new plates, and put the bolts back in and the cover back on and you're good. You could do it no problem. Just don't overtorque the clutch bolts, they only require around 10-15 foot pounds on most bikes. BotchedLobotomy posted:How exactly does the sensor work that knows when the clutch is engaged when you start a bike? I have a 92 GS500 and it takes a particular black magic on holding the clutch in a certain way to start it. Is it something I can easily replace like a front brake light sensor or is it deeper in the bike? If you look at the clutch perch, you'll see a 2 prong plug. If you jump (on the harness side) that with a piece of wire, it'll always think the clutch is in. So I'd try that first, see if it'll start consistently then, and if it does, then you can look at the actual switch, which is just a little black box with a rod on it that is pushed in by the clutch lever when you pull it in. It also sounds like your kickstand switch is failing, although I could be mistaken there. Usually if you've got the bike in neutral with the kickstand up, it'll start regardless of clutch position. AncientTV posted:Speaking of chains and sprockets and whatnot, has anyone here been torque-crazy enough to do a -1/+3 sprocket setup? I hadn't noticed what setup the PO had on my project bike thusfar, but as I was doing a final checkover the other day I happened to count the teeth. Is this thing going to be wheelie happy even though its an ex500? That's a pretty serious regear, and you may find that it's now capable of powerwheeling in first gear, but probably not. I wouldn't be too concerned about it, although it's going to tank your gas mileage.
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Dec 23, 2009 19:41
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Z3n posted:That's a pretty serious regear, and you may find that it's now capable of powerwheeling in first gear, but probably not. I wouldn't be too concerned about it, although it's going to tank your gas mileage. Fuuuuck. Is it going to throw off my speedo anymore than they usually are?
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Dec 23, 2009 19:55
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AncientTV posted:Fuuuuck. Is it going to throw off my speedo anymore than they usually are? Nah, your speedo reads off the front wheel. It's immune to sprocket changes! (Not front wheel swaps though  )
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Dec 23, 2009 19:57
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BotchedLobotomy posted:How exactly does the sensor work that knows when the clutch is engaged when you start a bike? I have a 92 GS500 and it takes a particular black magic on holding the clutch in a certain way to start it. Is it something I can easily replace like a front brake light sensor or is it deeper in the bike? Its a micro switch usually on the underside of clutch lever itself. When the clutch is pulled in, the switch closes, and the starter relay can engage. You can probably clean/replace the switch, or you can clip the wires and leave them (if its a normally open switch), or connect them (if its normally closed). Either way, its simple.
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Dec 23, 2009 20:53
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Z3n posted:It also sounds like your kickstand switch is failing, although I could be mistaken there. Usually if you've got the bike in neutral with the kickstand up, it'll start regardless of clutch position. I'm not too sure it's the kickstand switch failing, mine always has to have the clutch in to start, so I'd assume it's clutch switch related (I think?). I start mine in neutral with the kickstand down a lot of times, just so that it can warm up while I put on all my junk. Thanks for the info on the switch, I'm going to go take a look at it right now. 
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Dec 23, 2009 22:45
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I'm not too sure it's the kickstand switch failing, mine always has to have the clutch in to start, so I'd assume it's clutch switch related (I think?). I start mine in neutral with the kickstand down a lot of times, just so that it can warm up while I put on all my junk. Thanks for the info on the switch, I'm going to go take a look at it right now. Ahh, ok. Each bike is a little different with what combination of clutch in/kickstand/neutral it'll accept to start and run.
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Dec 23, 2009 22:52
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Most bikes require the clutch to be in so you dont hit the starter in gear with the stand up AKA after you stall it out.
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Dec 23, 2009 22:55
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Just bought front pads for my bike, time to swap 'em. Picked up EBCs since they're about 2 bucks cheaper than the stockers. Why are rear pads more expensive ($52) than fronts ($33)? Bike is a 2009 DR650SE.
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Dec 24, 2009 01:59
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Z3n posted:http://www.forvo.com/word/aprilia
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Dec 24, 2009 02:13
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Krakkles posted:Just bought front pads for my bike, time to swap 'em. Picked up EBCs since they're about 2 bucks cheaper than the stockers. Why are rear pads more expensive ($52) than fronts ($33)? Sometimes the rear pads are thicker than the front ones. I dunno if you're on one of those crazy bikes that has a bigger rear rotor than front one too...dirt bike front rotors can be pretty weedy. Fant, I figure I'm in America, I can butcher it by overpronouncing everything.
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Dec 24, 2009 02:44
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This is an awfully vague question, but what's the one brand of (seemingly magic) metal polish that comes in a tub? It's been recommended in the forum a thousand times, but stupid me forgot to bookmark it. Hopefully one of you will know what I'm blathering about.
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Dec 25, 2009 04:22
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Nevr Dull?? http://www.nevrdull.com/ Love the stuff.
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Dec 25, 2009 07:11
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I just needed some advice... Basically i have passed my CBT, with no intention on completing my full test. I want to buy a 125. And my requirements will be to get to and from my army base at weekends. So probably 40 miles each way. Would you advise getting a bike for this use ?
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Dec 25, 2009 22:23
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