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Moonie posted:I just needed some advice... 40 miles on what? Back roads? Superslab?
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Dec 25, 2009 22:57
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Doctor Zero posted:40 miles on what? Back roads? Superslab? Probably 3/4 superslab and the rest being back roads.
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Dec 25, 2009 23:06
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Ninja 250 or another fancy 250 that you guys get that we don't. Depending on the grades of the road and speedlimit on the super slab, and general driving patters of the area a 125 might be too small)
blugu64 fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Dec 26, 2009 |
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Dec 26, 2009 00:55
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Phat_Albert posted:Nevr Dull?? YES! I'm surprised that worked, thanks a bunch.
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Dec 26, 2009 00:57
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Dec 26, 2009 01:31
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Wow, Take side streets and enjoy the side streets. 14.6hp limit, that's less then even the CBR125RR has isn't it?
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Dec 26, 2009 01:36
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First off I'd like to state for the record that I got my butt whooped through corners by a girl riding a Ninja 250. This was up a hill and me on the 700. Yes, I suck. Trackdays, here I come. Anyway, I'm going to be buying a new tank for my recently acquired Bandit 400 since the one that it has now is rusted through in several places besides having a big dent in it. Besides being nearly impossible to find in good condition due to them only having been imported for two years, these tanks are apparently made of generic tin foil and rust with a fervor that makes 70's Fiats jealous. The last one of these bikes I looked at had been stored properly with a full tank of fuel so the drat thing rusted through ON TOP instead of the bottom. It's ridiculous. I am wondering if I should just go ahead and POR 15 it as a preventative measure or just leave it be and hope for the best.
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Dec 26, 2009 04:03
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Have you tried the usual haunts for Bandit parts? Namely: http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php and http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?action=forum Those guys usually have a surprising amount of stuff sitting around. I'm surprised you're seeing so many rusty Bandit tanks. The two previous owners of my Bandit were pretty clueless, and I'd be really amazed if they did anything to winterize it, but my tank is still sparkly clean. Either way, if you want to de-rust it, the best route is to do the electrolysis method(http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm, http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/, http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm), as it actually replaces the rust with metal, so you dont thin out the tank walls. Then either POR-15 it or RED Kote it.
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Dec 26, 2009 19:00
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I just tried to register an account with Maximum Suzuki and it won't accept any Gmail or Hotmail addresses. I signed up for a free GMX mail account and it won't accept that one either. How do you register? Need to .gov email for them to trust you?
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Dec 26, 2009 19:44
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Bugdrvr posted:I just tried to register an account with Maximum Suzuki and it won't accept any Gmail or Hotmail addresses. I signed up for a free GMX mail account and it won't accept that one either. How do you register? Need to .gov email for them to trust you?
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Dec 26, 2009 20:05
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an actual frog fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jun 24, 2020 |
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Dec 26, 2009 22:15
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Moonie posted:I just needed some advice... I wouldn't get a bike for that, your army buddies are going to call you a pussy for riding a scooter.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:59
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I started a valve check on the SV today. I only got to do the rear cylinder, but that brought up a quick question for you guys; the valves on the rear cylinder are all at the tight end of spec, but still in the correct range. (For example, .203 feeler fit snugly, allowable range .20 - .30) I'm planning on taking the SV to at least 4 trackdays this season. Would you guys go ahead and swap the shims out to get the valves back in the middle of the range, or leave it?
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Dec 27, 2009 04:08
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TheUltimateCool posted:I started a valve check on the SV today. I only got to do the rear cylinder, but that brought up a quick question for you guys; the valves on the rear cylinder are all at the tight end of spec, but still in the correct range. (For example, .203 feeler fit snugly, allowable range .20 - .30) Could you shove the bigger size feeler in there? If you could, if it was a .203 "loose", I wouldn't worry about it. Technically, you're in spec there. Is it good practice to change them when they're at the tight end of the spec? Absolutely. But will it kill the bike to run it like that? No. After all, you are still in spec. If I had the shims on hand, I'd change them out, if I didn't, I'd just run it and check it at the end of the next season. I tore my SV down at the start of a track season and then at the end, and there was zero change in my valves...3k miles of track only riding. Also, as valves only tighten over time, not loosen, the best policy is to move them as loosely in the spec as you can. If you go a little over, it's not the end of the world, it's going to rob a little power as the valves are not staying open as long, but it's not going to hurt the bike in any way. Given the choice between adjusting them to say, .27 and .32, I'll go to .32 to extend the adjustment interval. The other option here is to just button it up, order a shim kit, and check them in 6k or so. They'll be tight, you can adjust them, and that's that.
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Dec 27, 2009 05:23
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I've been searching for a GSXR intake cam for the Bandit for a while now, and I cant ever seem to find one. I found a guy selling one for $45, which is a pretty good deal. However, the markings on it worry me, but I dont have much experience with cams in general, so I turn to the asylum. Are these too marred up? Are the markings and wiping issues?    Would you put these in your bike?
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Dec 28, 2009 05:59
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I'm not really familiar with these cams in particular, but if that were a cam out of a Honda car I would say it's fine and has about 10k miles on it. Most newer stuff doesn't have the nice shiney even wear that you're used to seeing. Maybe it's cheaper machining or something.
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Dec 28, 2009 06:14
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Those cams look pretty gross in comparison to all the KLR, XT, and KLX cams I've seen. On the other hand, it's pretty odd that the oil channel in the cam cap left a gray groove on the bearing surface; perhaps the cam material is naturally more grayish. That puts this firmly in the land of I'm not sure what to make of it. Maybe Bugdrvr is right. I will say though, they don't look totally shot, as in dead, oil-starved, or square. If they're more than 50% cheaper and you're cheap, I'd consider buying them and doing a plastigauge clearance check on the bearing surfaces when installing: http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/ MotoMind fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Dec 28, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 06:26
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I'm a little weirded out by the wear on there as well, but barring someone with more experience (gnomad?) saying otherwise, I'd feel ok tossing them in my bike.
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Dec 28, 2009 08:20
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I don't recall pulling a cam from a known good engine that looked like that one does. It may just be the way they are. I don't see any bluing or signs of heat damage, which would show up rather quickly if there was an oiling failure. It could be that the oil didn't get changed on a regular basis and we're seeing some light sludging/coking. You could compare it to your present cam, see what it looks like, unless you don't want to pull it until you have the gixxer cam in hand. Can't say I'd blame you. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Dec 28, 2009 |
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Dec 28, 2009 09:36
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yeah i dunno. the cam on my 50+ year old ~100k mile bmw looked cleaner than that.
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Dec 28, 2009 13:28
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I have an 82 honda hawk 450, and I am having an electrical problem somewhere. The battery works fine, and the bike will crank great, I am just getting no spark. None. I replaced the plugs, the wires are good, I have tracked down, cleaned, and reconnected all the electrical connections...and nothing. Not one iota of spark. I bought it for $400, and the guy I bought it from said his "alcoholic mechanic" thought that the "igniter coil in the stator" had gone bad, but I am not seeing anything like that in the wiring diagram or visually. I haven't completely pulled the flywheel yet because it is a pain in the rear end and I do not have the flywheel puller. I think it may be the coil, but it seems to test good with my multimeter. Fuses are all good. Anyone else have any idea what I can check before I start ripping the guts out of this thing?
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Dec 28, 2009 14:57
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Kill switch? (Don't mean to be a smartass, but we've all seen this movie before.)
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Dec 28, 2009 15:01
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would the kill switch let it crank but keep it from getting spark to the spark plugs? This is my first bike, btw. Not trying to be a smartass either...I just do not know.
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Dec 28, 2009 15:20
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Nah, with the kill switch on nothing happens. At least on all the bikes I've known.
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Dec 28, 2009 15:39
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On an '82? Sure. The key switch shuts off the main power, the kill switch just cuts the ignition. With key on/kill off, you'll have lights and starter, just no spark.
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Dec 28, 2009 19:56
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i will check it out. Thanks!
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Dec 28, 2009 21:31
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Here's a question from someone with no clue! The stock bar grips on my KLR650 are far too thin for my hands, so I cramp fairly quickly. Where should I be looking for a large-diameter grip for dudes who palm basketballs?
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Dec 28, 2009 23:44
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:I have an 82 honda hawk 450, and I am having an electrical problem somewhere. The battery works fine, and the bike will crank great, I am just getting no spark. None. I replaced the plugs, the wires are good, I have tracked down, cleaned, and reconnected all the electrical connections...and nothing. Not one iota of spark. I bought it for $400, and the guy I bought it from said his "alcoholic mechanic" thought that the "igniter coil in the stator" had gone bad, but I am not seeing anything like that in the wiring diagram or visually. I haven't completely pulled the flywheel yet because it is a pain in the rear end and I do not have the flywheel puller. I think it may be the coil, but it seems to test good with my multimeter. Fuses are all good. Anyone else have any idea what I can check before I start ripping the guts out of this thing? If it's not the kill switch, usually bikes pick up sparks off of what essentially is a hall effect sensor. If that dies you won't get spark. That's probably what he was refering to by the "igniter coil in the stator" going bad. It's not really a coil and it's not in the stator, but it is affixed to the crank, and it does control sparking. It should be a little black box that picks up either off of the flywheel or off of the timing rotor.
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Dec 29, 2009 02:35
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I just got a bike, I haven't registered it yet. Do I need to get a license before I can get it registered? I'm in FL.
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Dec 29, 2009 06:59
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colas posted:I just got a bike, I haven't registered it yet. Do I need to get a license before I can get it registered? I'm in FL. sup fellow Floridian rider Don't take this as gospel, but it shouldn't be an issue. You're better off trying to register it now than waiting to get your license and doing it, because you can incur fees from not transferring over a title in a timely manner. edit: I paid late fees. They are not fun.
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Dec 29, 2009 07:27
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Here in Virginia, at least, registration and licensing have nothing to do with each other. You do need insurance to get registered. It's probably not too different down there.
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Dec 29, 2009 13:20
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Endless Mike posted:Here in Virginia, at least, registration and licensing have nothing to do with each other. You do need insurance to get registered. It's probably not too different down there. I've been told that you don't need insurance here unless you don't wear a helmet.
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Dec 29, 2009 16:49
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colas posted:I've been told that you don't need insurance here unless you don't wear a helmet. you've been told incorrect information, unfortunately. http://home.ama-cycle.org/amaccess/laws/result.asp?state=fl quote:State Insurance Requirements: They were probably thinking of the helmet law, which exempts Florida riders over 21 if they have a minimum of 10,000 in medical insurance.
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Dec 29, 2009 17:12
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Raven457 posted:Thanks!
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Dec 29, 2009 17:18
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Due to a combination of factors (huge change in work schedule, minor crash which sheered off some parts and left me a bit bike-shy, paperwork hangup that froze my registration, personal drama, etc) I have had my Triumph Bonneville parked for about 3 months now. I finally got my poo poo together and got my registration cleaned up, got the spare parts, and am ready to go. But before I try and fire this up and get riding, what steps must be taken? There are the obvious things like fill up tires, lube chain, probably tighten chain. And I'm prepared for the battery possibly having lost charge from idleness. An oil change seems a good call as well, fresh filters. That aside, anything huge I'm missing? I'm just worried I'll do something dumb that any reasonable person should have known better than to do. Any likelihood the carbs have gone gunky from being still? I'm used to moped carbs that varnish up and junk, not sure how similar bikes are. Also a bit edgy because the Triumph seems so much more finicky than the Honda CB I had before it, so just want to be sure it's not going to suddenly stall out in traffic because of whatever result of sitting parked. Am I overthinking it, or are there some good dire warnings?
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Dec 30, 2009 04:00
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Z3n posted:If it's not the kill switch, usually bikes pick up sparks off of what essentially is a hall effect sensor. If that dies you won't get spark. That's probably what he was refering to by the "igniter coil in the stator" going bad. It's not really a coil and it's not in the stator, but it is affixed to the crank, and it does control sparking. It should be a little black box that picks up either off of the flywheel or off of the timing rotor. yup. that appears to be the culprit. drat. Salvage yards, here I come!
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Dec 30, 2009 22:31
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OneOverZero posted:Here's a question from someone with no clue! The stock bar grips on my KLR650 are far too thin for my hands, so I cramp fairly quickly. Where should I be looking for a large-diameter grip for dudes who palm basketballs? I'd try grip puppies first, they're cheap, unless you are godzilla sized.
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Dec 31, 2009 00:27
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Electrical question time!!!! On my RV90 that has the Honda CT90 motor in it, the rectifier is a 4-pole unit that can be replaced by this rectifier from Radio Shack, which has 4 terminals. As you can see in the following image, the RV90 uses a 2-terminal rectifier:  What, if any Radio Shack rectifier would work to replace this? How about this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591 I really dont know enough about rectifiers and how they work to know what will and wont work in this application. Nerobro, I'm looking at you....
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Dec 31, 2009 03:02
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:Due to a combination of factors (huge change in work schedule, minor crash which sheered off some parts and left me a bit bike-shy, paperwork hangup that froze my registration, personal drama, etc) I have had my Triumph Bonneville parked for about 3 months now. I'd say drain the old gas out and put in some new gas along with some Techron concentrate or Seafoam. Also, check the battery voltage with a multimeter, and put it on a charger if it's below 12-13 volts. Then, spray a bit of starting fluid in the airbox and try to turn it over. If you're lucky, it should catch pretty quickly on the ether and continue running on the fresh gas. If that fails, try, try again. As a last resort, you might have to pull the carbs and clean the crap out of them.
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Dec 31, 2009 04:26
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sectoidman posted:I'd say drain the old gas out and put in some new gas along with some Techron concentrate or Seafoam. Also, check the battery voltage with a multimeter, and put it on a charger if it's below 12-13 volts. Then, spray a bit of starting fluid in the airbox and try to turn it over. If you're lucky, it should catch pretty quickly on the ether and continue running on the fresh gas. If that fails, try, try again. As a last resort, you might have to pull the carbs and clean the crap out of them. Jesus Christ. It's a loving 3 month parking. He should be fine on his fairly new Boneville just topping the gas up, lubing the chain and checking tire pressure. Way to overreact. He might have to push-start it, and take a good long ride, and that should be it.
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Dec 31, 2009 15:08
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