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Since the CB750 is going to take more time/money then I thought and I really, really, really, want to get back on two wheels... I saw an ad on Craigslist for a 1980 Honda Express. I talked to the guy, who said it was all there except for a piston, head, seat and light. I go there to check it out and it's a lot rougher then he said (missing both tanks, lever assemblies, etc.) so I bail. My girl dragged me go see New Moon (don't) so I dragged her over the local bone yard to see if they have mopeds/moped bits. It takes a minute of talking to one of the dissemblers to explain what I'm looking for, and after a minute he volunteers that they have a bike with pedals back in the Yamaha section. A chappy? gently caress no. It's a (nearly) complete Jawa 207. It's missing a seat and an alternator cap. $50 to get it in my trunk. My gods what have I gotten myself into?
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Nov 28, 2009 04:01
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 19:01 |
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Ahahahaha you're me like two years ago. The CB's a DOHC bike, too, isn't it? Is your attic filled with ancient bicycles? As my doppelganger, would you mind paying my student loans? What is this "alternator cap" you speak of on the Jawa? It's not the thyristor, I hope. Is it the coil?
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Nov 28, 2009 05:57
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Ahahahaha you're me like two years ago. The CB's a DOHC bike, too, isn't it? Is your attic filled with ancient bicycles? As my doppelganger, would you mind paying my student loans? Yep. '82 Nighthawk 750. I just found out a couple of my buddies have access to a machine shop so I might get that somewhere soon. Because whatever Honda built their fasteners out of is soft enough to strip if you bring a screwdriver near it, but hard enough to break a got damned extractor when you try to tap it in... And my laundry room has a few dead mountain bikes, most of a beach cruiser, and an 80cc PRC thumper that doesn't actually fit in anything. The "alternator cap" is the little circular chunk of plastic that covers what the shop manual I looked at calls the alternator. It goes on the right hand side of the bike, right behind the cylinder case. I'm hoping it's an actual alternator and not a Thyristor. I'm under the impression that the Thyristor is a Jawa thing and my bike is a re-branded Babbeta. Looking at the exploded diagram everything is there, except the plastic cover. Don't even talk to me about student loans. I'm going to go mortgage my future next week because I'm sick and tired of going under the bus for someone eles' dream.
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Nov 28, 2009 06:11
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Oh, that plastic thing. I'm not even sure how important that is in the grand scheme of things; there's no oil under there. Since it exists (but is broken), you might just get away with supergluing it. I think it just keeps water out of the housing and electrical stuff. Mine's held with a thin piece of metal; if you can get yours secured by way of small bungie cord or something, you might be able to get away with it. Did your Jawa have a decompression lever? I've got a few 207 engines lying around (one of which is actually salvagable, top-end wise), and only one had a decomp setup.
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Nov 28, 2009 12:42
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Oh, that plastic thing. I'm not even sure how important that is in the grand scheme of things; there's no oil under there. Since it exists (but is broken), you might just get away with supergluing it. I think it just keeps water out of the housing and electrical stuff. Mine's held with a thin piece of metal; if you can get yours secured by way of small bungie cord or somefthing, you might be able to get away with it. The little cat dish thing is completely gone on my bike.I'm just worried that one of those windings it covers is going to ground itself into my ankle. Which would probably hurt like the dickens. It does have a decompression lever. The bike is surprisingly complete. I'm sure once I start tearing into this bad boy I'm going to find all sorts of stuff that is missing, not salvageable, too Czechoslovakian to work, etc. But until then I remain cautiously optimistic. Were the engines between the 206s/207s/210s actually different? From what I've read the difference between the 206/207 was the addition of a rear suspension, and the 207/210 was a two speed. If I see an engine from a 210 or 206 will it fit my 207?
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Nov 28, 2009 17:46
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The 207 and 210 engines were completely different, although the electrical components, carb, and exhaust are interchangeable. I had a top tank 210, and you can tell the engines are just totally different builds. I'm sure some things may be interchangeable internally (rings/piston are likely the same), but they're otherwise not compatible. The engine mounts are not compatible, though I sold the 210 with some mounts cut from a Manet Korado, which was a 210 frame with a Puch engine. If you're incredibly bored, that may be a route to follow, but you'd honestly be better off just buying a Puch at that point.
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Nov 28, 2009 21:47
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I just purchased a stock 1980 Puch Newport II that is in great shape. It’s totally stock, and I’d like to make it a big quicker with more low-end power and a better ability to go uphill with my 195lb self on it. What are the best first steps to take? It seems like a kit would require upgrading the intake/carb/exhaust and rejetting, anyway, and I can’t afford all that at once. What do I need to get in order to put a new intake and exhaust and keep the air/fuel working correctly? I’ve read good things about the Proma GP exhaust, but besides that I’m kind of clueless about what’s good for the ZA50. Based on what I know so far, it sounds like a Bing carb in the 15-18mm range, intake that works with that, and a new pipe would work? Do I get an assortment of jets and see what works? I'm kind of clueless about small engines. Thanks for any help.
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Nov 29, 2009 23:09
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Everything you describe means you need a 70cc cylinder. That's the first thing to do regardless. Pipes, intakes, carbs, all help high rpm use.
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Nov 30, 2009 23:52
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Nerobro posted:Everything you describe means you need a 70cc cylinder. That's the first thing to do regardless. Pipes, intakes, carbs, all help high rpm use. Yes, but 70cc cylinder requires the purchase of intake/exhaust/new, bigger carb/jets AND the kit, putting me $270 or so back if I get the "why think?" kit from Treats.... an intake, exhaust, and either a new carb or a rejetted stock carb is a cheaper first step that I can easily add onto with a kit later, correct? I simply don't have the ability to double what I already paid on the Puch, and doing it in steps is far more doable for me. Aren't some pipes and such good for lower-end pull? Specifically the Proma GP?
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Dec 1, 2009 00:49
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nobody actually makes a low end pipe. yeah, some of them work better than others. But no, they aren't desgined for it. And you'll likely still get better low end torque with the stock exhaust. Why does a cylinder need a new intake, exhaust, and carb? I just swapped cylinders on my bike.
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Dec 1, 2009 03:21
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Nerobro posted:nobody actually makes a low end pipe. yeah, some of them work better than others. But no, they aren't desgined for it. And you'll likely still get better low end torque with the stock exhaust. I assumed you would need more air, more fuel, and a better exhaust to handle the increased displacement. Perhaps this was wrong! I'm still learning. In the world of easy fixes/tweaking, I spent some quality time with the Puch tonight. Tightened up some levers, tweaked the barrel adjusters (which are far out enough to make me know I need to replace the brake lines eventually), fixed some wiring that had been split in a fall that sheared a bunch of the wires and been poorly repaired, etc. The big thing, though, was fixing what I think was four-stroking at WOT. The carb had been replaced with one quite different than stock, the 1/15/46A (the 15 referring to the mm) (82 jet) [the stock is 1/12/321 (12mm) with a 50 jet, according to mopedwiki]. What I imagine to be a fairly significant difference between the two was causing bogging at high speeds/WOT, which supposedly is caused by running rich. I drilled about 6 1/4" holes in the stock airbox in the circle of the main air inlet and took it for a spin. I can now run WOT with no four-stroking! Wooooo It's the little things.
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Dec 1, 2009 04:59
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ShaneB posted:Yes, but 70cc cylinder requires the purchase of intake/exhaust/new, bigger carb/jets AND the kit, putting me $270 or so back if I get the "why think?" kit from Treats.... an intake, exhaust, and either a new carb or a rejetted stock carb is a cheaper first step that I can easily add onto with a kit later, correct? I simply don't have the ability to double what I already paid on the Puch, and doing it in steps is far more doable for me. It wouldn't be as fun but you can just start grabbing the stuff you need and not putting the stuff on the bike until you get everything.
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Dec 1, 2009 05:00
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Shlomo Palestein posted:The 207 and 210 engines were completely different, although the electrical components, carb, and exhaust are interchangeable. I had a top tank 210, and you can tell the engines are just totally different builds. I'm sure some things may be interchangeable internally (rings/piston are likely the same), but they're otherwise not compatible. The engine mounts are not compatible, though I sold the 210 with some mounts cut from a Manet Korado, which was a 210 frame with a Puch engine. If you're incredibly bored, that may be a route to follow, but you'd honestly be better off just buying a Puch at that point. Okay, you're the person who would probably know this. A Jawa X30 has the same engine as a 207 right?
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Dec 2, 2009 06:11
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Gr3y posted:Okay, you're the person who would probably know this. A Jawa X30 has the same engine as a 207 right? As far as I know, the X20/25/30 models were just 207's by a different name. The number following the X is the top speed, which was acheived by gear ratio. I do not believe they used different carbs or restrictors, so the only difference between them all should be the rear sprocket, essentially.
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Dec 2, 2009 13:44
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I need some help adjusting my throttle cable... I have a 1/15/46A bing carb on my recently purchased Puch Newport II. I am currently attempting to get everything adjusted correctly, but am having issues with the throttle cable and idle. I was reading up and I saw how the idle settings can have an impact on the low-end power of a bike, so I started attempting to adjust the idle based on the guides and videos I saw on the MA wiki. However, I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere. I'm not sure if the throttle cable is adjusting at all when I turn that knurled nub where the throttle cable connects to the carb. The black cable is able to pull out of the adjustment piece, even. If I adjust the idle screw it certainly starts drastically affecting the idle, but the throttle cable isn't seeming to do anything. The cable appears to not function 100% smoothly at the grip. If I go to WOT and let go, the cable doesn't pull all the way out, and stays maybe 1/4" into the grip. Is this normal, or should it be snapping back all the way to the base of the grip? I read on one carb adjusting guide that you should adjust the knurl until you can see the throttle slide begin to move, and then stop. Then begin adjusting the idle screw. However, when the bike is off the choke slide is all the way down, blocking the intake on the carb, and I can't see in to view the throttle slide. Is this normal, or is the choke slide incorrectly connected inside my carb? Am I supposed to view the throttle slide movement from the intake manifold side? Am I supposed to not view inside at all, and simply go by the idle after the bike is warm? I've been trying to fix the throttle (NOT the idle) with the bike off. I know I have to adjust the idle with the bike warm. I'd like to make sure the throttle cable and connection to the carb is adjusted correctly, because only then can I be sure the idle is adjusted correctly. I haven't found ANYTHING, not even in the puch service manual, about how to adjust the throttle cable besides instructions to turn the knurled bit near the carb. However, I'm not sure if there are more things I need to fix, like the connection to the grip throttle...
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Dec 9, 2009 05:56
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Sounds like your throttle cable is a little long. Nothing to worry about. so long as the slide inthe carb opens and closes all the way, you're golden. Okey, "I" am having a probem. I have a 12:14 carb on my Pug. It will start, if I pedal the hell out of the bike. I can keep the rpms "fairly" low, but it will not idle. However it does rev to the moon if I open the throttle. I am about ready to throw the stock carb back on, because it used to idle with that on there.
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Dec 9, 2009 06:23
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Is it the kind with only a main jet, or does it have both a main and pilot?
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Dec 9, 2009 23:37
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Does anyone know where to find decent instructions for putting together one of these chinese 66cc 2-stroke kits? I've been searching all over other motorized bike forums and have only found some poor PDFs with tiny exploded views. I'm mainly wondering about the wiring but would like some more direction before diving in. Should probably add, my kit didn't come with any instructions. 
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Dec 10, 2009 03:36
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Just one jet. the main jet.
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Dec 11, 2009 20:54
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Too rich at idle? Can you drop the needle down at all?
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Dec 11, 2009 20:58
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no needle. it's a flat slide with a brass tube that has two holes in it.
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Dec 11, 2009 22:06
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lol wow, not sure what to tell you on that one.
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Dec 11, 2009 23:35
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me either. I think I'm going to go with the PHBG I have hanging around. three adjustable circuits is a lot better than one.
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Dec 13, 2009 06:15
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Hey, so, finally getting around to replacing the chain on my Targa, is there any diagram I can look at to see what the gently caress I need to do or is it as easy as it seems?
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Dec 14, 2009 20:13
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Caldwell Fagg posted:Hey, so, finally getting around to replacing the chain on my Targa, is there any diagram I can look at to see what the gently caress I need to do or is it as easy as it seems? The drive-chain? You find the master link, disconnect it, remove the chain. Assembly is opposite of disassembly. Now, if you DON'T have a master link, prepare for the "fun" of using a chain-breaker tool. Mwuahahahahahahaha
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Dec 14, 2009 20:31
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 All the parts are in place on my moped now. Still not running sadly, maybe in January. e: Except for the drive train, I've yet to mount that.
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Dec 21, 2009 00:47
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That looks great. News on my front: living in an apartment sucks. I got hit with that huge snowstorm on the east and my moped was out in the parking lot (I literally have no where else to put it). It got snowed in. I tried to pull it out from teh snow, and somehow the exhaust ripped off. I honestly have absolutely no idea how it happened, but it did. Fahuck.
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Dec 21, 2009 00:53
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eggyolk posted:All the parts are in place on my moped now. Still not running sadly, maybe in January. Before you celebrate, make sure you have a rear brake on that thing. And fix the tubes, with the nipples like that you're going to tear a tube, and that will flat FAST. Also, your rims are rusty, and check spoke tension. :-)
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Dec 21, 2009 05:48
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Oh man I want me a Sachs Madass. Any of you fellas have one and can provide any input? I'd be using it to commute in the LA/Hollywood area to and from school. Any suggestions? My other option is to try and find a supermoto or something.
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Dec 21, 2009 12:33
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ceebee posted:Oh man I want me a Sachs Madass. Any of you fellas have one and can provide any input? I'd be using it to commute in the LA/Hollywood area to and from school. Any suggestions? My other option is to try and find a supermoto or something. Guy who lived beneath my apartment had one and liked it alright. The 50cc got up to 40 degoverned.
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Dec 22, 2009 03:59
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Ha my most recent order from Treats (which was made just prior to X-mas) contained a few extra gaskets, some fuel filters (I ordered one), and a cassette tape of Nirvana's In Utero. Merry Christmas indeed!
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Dec 28, 2009 22:27
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i never get fun stuff from treats like that, i feel so left out. hah.
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Dec 29, 2009 18:04
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It would probably make you feel better to know I'm a repeat offender -- I mean customer -- at treats. I'm probably in the G club at this point. I bought the stupid moped for $300.
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Dec 29, 2009 18:31
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Mopeds seem to be running a little high, especially for winter, in the DC area (too many young people, plus VA's "50cc and below is just a bike" rule?). However, there's a Tomos Targa for $450 about an hour north in a small town, and a Tomos Sprint for $500 (probably negotiable) about an hour south in the sticks. Both look really clean, and are claimed to be 95% good (except for a flat tire on the Targa). Is it remotely feasible to transport a moped with a Toyota Corolla, or would I definitely need a buddy with a truck to go pick up either? I had considered trying to fit a Honda PA50 in my Corolla back in Austin before deciding it was a bad idea and getting the seller agree to drive it 15m to my house instead. Can I, I dunno, scooch the seats forward, lay down a tarp in back, remove a wheel, or whatever? Or just do a partial disassembly of the whole vehicle and stow it? Anyone transported a moped in a small sedan?
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Dec 30, 2009 03:42
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I tried like hell to fit my pa50II in my car at the time (cavalier) and it almost fit. If I had the tools to remove the wheels, it would have fit fine, albeit a little awkward to shove in there.
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Dec 30, 2009 03:44
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My focus has carried three mopeds. But it's the hatchback.
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Dec 30, 2009 07:27
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Yep, I've had my RV90 and a Puch moped in the back of my focus (hatchback as well). You can doo eeeeet
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Dec 30, 2009 16:36
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If I put the back seats down, I can fit my Puch in my midsize sedan. I have to take off the bars though. I don't have to remove the seat anymore now that it's chopped. Right now I'm impatiently waiting on an air filter and exhaust pipe from treats.
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Jan 2, 2010 22:15
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I put a motor on a bicycle two nights ago. I got to ride it yesterday. To make the motor fit, I had to make a spacer to tip the exhaust out of the way. Sadly, the biggest drill bit i had wasn't big enough to make the exhaust hole the proper size. This is actually useful. The port in the cylinder is rectangle, the port in the exhaust is round. I can use my spacer to make it flow properly. time to break out the dremel tonight. And now i'm pondering stacking up a couple base gaskets to raise the ports. I built it up on a schwinn landmark bike. It's a nice bike, really solid parts, good components throughout.
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Jan 3, 2010 01:48
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| # ? Jun 8, 2024 19:01 |
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Nerobro posted:I put a motor on a bicycle two nights ago. I got to ride it yesterday. To make the motor fit, I had to make a spacer to tip the exhaust out of the way. Sadly, the biggest drill bit i had wasn't big enough to make the exhaust hole the proper size. It'd be cool to see pics of this, I've always thought this would be a fun project. It's realistically probably easier and as cost effective to go electric and get a hub motor, though.
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Jan 3, 2010 05:00
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