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Z3n posted:Overflow/vent tubes.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 12:34 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 18:22 |
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79.GS850 - Airbox and battery box, hi temp paint needed? or normal poo poo
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 12:55 |
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Dubs posted:79.GS850 - Airbox and battery box, hi temp paint needed? or normal poo poo Normal poo poo. Hi temp paint is for really hi temp places. I painted my headers with hi temp, they turned out lovely. I also painted my flaky oil cooler with it. It didn't get hot enough to harden the paint so it's flaky again.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 13:36 |
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Speaking of paint. I need more yay/nays on this: Paint the rims flat black with red rim tape?
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 13:41 |
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I was thinking the same thing. yay, because its bright as all gently caress at night and bling. nay, because red and orange. helpful?
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 14:37 |
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My tank is red (if that's what you mean), it's just the camera couldn't do white balance if it was the see-saw caretaker on a Ku Klux Klan fun fair.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 15:47 |
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I don't like painted rims or rim tape, so I say Nay. But that's just me.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 19:23 |
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can you paint them black and have a thin line of tape? I always thought this looked sharp.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 19:30 |
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That's exactly the look I'm thinking about. If I don't go for that, I'll just clean them thoroughly with my chinese Dremel ripoff and possibly clearcoat them.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 19:41 |
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Rim tape is fairly cheap, I vote that you put some rim tape on it as it sits and see how it looks.
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# ? Jan 16, 2010 20:15 |
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So I've been e-mailing people from all around southern California about their V-Stroms. Here's what I've found so far, and if anyone has any input on what they think is the best deal, that'd be great! Keep in mind that money is pretty tight for me (I can afford a bike, but an extra $500 that I didn't have to spend would be quite nice). http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/1548591871.html 07 Wee-Strom with 8900 miles and minor mods, looks pretty much perfect. $4900 OBO. The guy seems pretty stand up and has e-mailed me lots of extra pics. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/1548685945.html 06 Wee-Strom with 12k miles and a handful of mods, basically stock. $4500 OBO. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/mcy/1546187186.html 06 V-Strom DL1000 with 17k miles, bone stock, tires may need replacing soon. But the extra power may be nice. $4900 OBO. Would require a long travel to get there. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/1555932860.html 04 Wee-Strom. High miles at 47,600, but it's also the cheapest at $3400 OBO. Asked him about maintenance, and he said "Valves have been checked a while back, but they should be checked in the near future. The front fork needs to be gone over, I have the seals and oil, but have not gotten around to doing it." Knowing that I'd like to keep it as inexpensive as possible, which one of these would be the best to go for? Would it be best to stretch for the more expensive ones?
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 02:14 |
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I'd go with the cheaper one, personally. That 1500$ is a lot of money, and the SV engine, if well cared for, will go forever. But I also don't have any problems working on the bikes, etc.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 02:47 |
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http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/1548685945.html http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/mcy/1548591871.html I would only bother with both of these.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 03:36 |
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Chill_Bebop posted:http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/1548685945.html Any particular reason? Lower miles/better general quality?
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 05:17 |
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Radbot posted:Any particular reason? Lower miles/better general quality? Lower miles, probably no little hidden issues, Less worn out, you can put more miles on it. Its true that owner maintenance has more importance than the mileage on a bike, but I still feel weird buying a 47k bike that has some little problems. I don't even know if you'd want a DL1000. Also if you are in San Diego you should add me to your friends list, I love the dual sports as well.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 19:24 |
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Z3n posted:Rim tape is fairly cheap, I vote that you put some rim tape on it as it sits and see how it looks. Yup, going to try that. Is it easy to remove? And if putting it on for good, do you need to clear coat?
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 19:39 |
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Ola posted:Yup, going to try that. Is it easy to remove? And if putting it on for good, do you need to clear coat? It's very easy to remove, and there's no need for clear coat over it. Chili makes some good points. I don't have a problem buying high mileage bikes, but I'd have to see it in person. If it looks clean and well kept, it's probably fine. If it looks crappy and gunky, like the guy is dumping it before it explodes, I'd run.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 22:29 |
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So I have an old 1988 rm125 that I'm fixing to ride and sell eventually. A while ago my dad and I were taking apart the clutch, and we accidentally broke one of the forks/posts on the clutch basket off. (No impact wrench at the time, plus the nut is backwards threaded, oops.) We ended up just putting it back together with the broken fork and it seemed to ride/shift fine. I was just wondering what kind of problems that could cause, if any.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:11 |
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Nihilanth posted:So I have an old 1988 rm125 that I'm fixing to ride and sell eventually. A while ago my dad and I were taking apart the clutch, and we accidentally broke one of the forks/posts on the clutch basket off. (No impact wrench at the time, plus the nut is backwards threaded, oops.) We ended up just putting it back together with the broken fork and it seemed to ride/shift fine. I was just wondering what kind of problems that could cause, if any. Premature clutch wear, you're not gonna mesh the plates together properly when it's missing a spring. Besides that it'll still run.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:16 |
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What would be a good method of cleaning off my exhaust pipes and muffler? The rainy weather riding really did a number on it and it looks like it was dunked in some sort of liquid poo poo mixture and then baked on. Also along those lines what is a good all-purpose cleaner I could spray on the front of the bike and around the frame to dissolve a lot of the road gunk I built up last season?
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:30 |
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We actually broke that inner clutch part too (hub, i think?) but I bought a replacement for that, So it's not missing a spring. It's one of these forks that it's running without. Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:31 |
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I'd imagine it's not exactly good for it, but it's probably not going to cause it to explode or anything.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:43 |
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Okay, cool. I looked at replacing it but it's a 100+ dollar part. I don't really think it's worth it for a bike that old. Especially if the broken one doesn't cause problems.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:48 |
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Nihilanth posted:Okay, cool. I looked at replacing it but it's a 100+ dollar part. I don't really think it's worth it for a bike that old. Especially if the broken one doesn't cause problems. I could see it stressing the clutch plates more and stuff, but if you're just gonna be abusing the bike until it goes, I wouldn't bother with it.
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# ? Jan 17, 2010 23:49 |
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dietcokefiend posted:What would be a good method of cleaning off my exhaust pipes and muffler? The rainy weather riding really did a number on it and it looks like it was dunked in some sort of liquid poo poo mixture and then baked on. Strangely, I had good luck with WD-40 getting dried and baked on road tar off my bike.
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 01:46 |
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Ola posted:Yup, going to try that. Is it easy to remove? And if putting it on for good, do you need to clear coat? You wont have to clear coat it on. It can come back off, but the stuff I've dealt with has been designed to stick and stick well, so its not coming off without some work. Thats what you want in rimtape though, which is good for if you're leaving it on forever, but bad for testing it.
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 16:05 |
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http://westcoastgpcycles.com/ Anyone have any experience with these dudes? All the online reviews I saw were pretty glowing, and they said they'd service my little 08 ex250j. I think I'm going to get some new tires, even though my current ones are not entirely worn out. Going to have them check out stuff like valves or whatever else I'm missing.
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 18:59 |
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soy posted:http://westcoastgpcycles.com/ They're right down the street from my apt. Locally / family owned shop. Very cool guys. Really good service.
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 19:44 |
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I took people's advice in this forum and went ahead and bought a CB350 repair manual. I'm going to try to get the bike running again myself. http://www.themotorbookstore.com/cb350.html To Do List: - Get bike running - Fix starter - Replace headlight with something that actually illuminates the road
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 20:19 |
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soy posted:http://westcoastgpcycles.com/ Personally, if you've got the time you'd save quite a bit of money to check the valves yourself, probably enough to pay for the tires. As far as tires go, I say gently caress'em and pay for people to mount them because that poo poo is just a PITA.
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 20:26 |
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blugu64 posted:Personally, if you've got the time you'd save quite a bit of money to check the valves yourself, probably enough to pay for the tires. As far as tires go, I say gently caress'em and pay for people to mount them because that poo poo is just a PITA. I'm mechanically retarded, and I want it done right. I don't have the time, and there's various other stuff I want checked out/done.. Considering the deal I got on the bike I'm fine with spending a fair amount to get it tuned all properly. I'll learn to do the maintenance stuff from my brother in law in a few weeks, once we get our little workshop put together (he rides bikes too, and is a good mechanic)
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 23:20 |
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soy posted:I'm mechanically retarded, and I want it done right. I don't have the time, and there's various other stuff I want checked out/done.. Considering the deal I got on the bike I'm fine with spending a fair amount to get it tuned all properly. I was going to say...I'm happy to look over the bike for you, considering you're somewhat local, but it looks like you've got it covered
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# ? Jan 18, 2010 23:31 |
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Broken-bolt extractor troubles Are the bolts on a Triumph just insanely hard to remove with a broken-screw extractor, or am I doing it wrong? The bolt that holds the little kicker piece on my shifter sheared off in a fall. So I whip out a hand drill and some basic black-oxide drill bits and try to drill a starter hole for my broken-screw extractor. Tons of armwork later, just a small divot. I go get a 12 lithium cordless drill and try again, no dice. I figure then the bits just aren't tough enough, so I go get a proper-size cobalt metal-drilling bit. Still making almost no progress even with the torque turned up, tried high and low speeds, etc. Yes, I've got the drill-bit turning clockwise, and when I try to use the screw extractor I turn it counter-clockwise (it's reverse threaded). What am I doing wrong preventing me from boring a nice deep priming hole into the bolt and then driving the extractor into it? Even with a good hammer stroke, I can't reliably get the extractor to dig into a divot that shallow. TapTheForwardAssist fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Jan 20, 2010 |
# ? Jan 19, 2010 22:48 |
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:and when I try to use the screw extractor I turn it clockwise (it's reverse threaded). turn it anticlockwise
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# ? Jan 19, 2010 23:25 |
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echomadman posted:turn it anticlockwise My bust, I meant counter-clockwise since it's reverse-threaded. I can get it to sort of stick in, but then the right-angle-grip starts to slip on it and it comes out. In any case, the fundamental problem is: is a 12v lithium hand-drill and a cobalt bit simply not enough to tunnel into a Triumph shifter bolt enough to extract it, or am I doing something wrong?
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# ? Jan 20, 2010 07:13 |
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Isn't it clockwise to remove something that is reverse threaded? Righty-loosey? EDIT: Ah. gotcha. Uthor fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Jan 20, 2010 |
# ? Jan 20, 2010 07:53 |
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Uthor posted:Isn't it clockwise to remove something that is reverse threaded? Righty-loosey? no he means that the extractor itself is reverse threaded so that it pulls out the bolt
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# ? Jan 20, 2010 07:59 |
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I already ordered a repair manual for my cb350, however, I thought I'd ask this question here anyway: My blinkers do not blink. When I turn one on, it just stays on like a headlight. What could be causing this, and how do I fix it?
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# ? Jan 20, 2010 16:29 |
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M.C. McMic posted:I already ordered a repair manual for my cb350, however, I thought I'd ask this question here anyway: Most likely one of the lamps are shot or the connectors are really corroded. Does the rear one light up too? Most old relays will only work when both lamps are good.
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# ? Jan 20, 2010 16:50 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 18:22 |
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Ola posted:Most likely one of the lamps are shot or the connectors are really corroded. Does the rear one light up too? Most old relays will only work when both lamps are good. Yeah, all the lights work. They just don't blink. I've actually been sitting at intersections doing it manually with my thumb. Haha.
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# ? Jan 20, 2010 19:15 |