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Hog Obituary posted:wait, $10k USD for a '93 LE? That's seriously the market value? Depends on where it is, what time of the year, and what kind of shape it is, but yeah, there are people out there who will pay that much for a 93LE. I've even seen them pay that much for a 91BRG, which is less limited than the 93LE. I only paid $4400 for mine 
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Jan 20, 2010 17:59
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93LEs are pretty drat desireable. They fall into the bunch of 1.6s that have long nose cranks, have ridiculously rare wheels which are really light, and come with R package parts attached. They were also all numbered. I'd pay more for one. Quite a bit more. (Then I would drive the poo poo out of it.)
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Jan 20, 2010 19:33
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Oh, I didn't know they were that much more desirable than a '95M, which I think has a street value of $4k-$5k
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Jan 20, 2010 20:51
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I have a door speaker on my '99 that sounds blown half the time, and normal the rest of the time. It is apparently, wet.quote:Also, there is a known problem with the early ('99) Bose door speakers. They tend to get wet, and when they do, they start to buzz like blown Wal Mart specials. Your dealer will probably install a set of baffles to keep them dry if you complain, or you could order some baffles from a place like Crutchfield or a local car audio shop and put them in yourself. This will help, but some folks like to install some dynamat-like sound dampener in the door panels in addition to help keep the buzzing down further. Ideas? I wanted to replace the speaker because I thought it was blown, but it looks like I would have to get an aftermarket head unit as well as speaker, and bypass the lovely Bose amps.
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Jan 21, 2010 01:13
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I actually had both door speakers just sort of die over time; I tested the speakers hooked up to a separate source and they didn't work, and a spare speaker worked fine hooked up in place of the door ones. The speakers didn't look damaged except for rust in the metal areas around the cone. They gradually died, such that I didn't realize what was happening and had increased the bias towards the headrest speakers to compensate. I replaced them with a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007LJL8E/ref=wms_ohs_product (Kenwood KFC-C1739ie). They sound great; I'd have to recommend them to any Miata owner. For those interested, I also have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OSZA44/ref=wms_ohs_product (Boss Audio BASS600). It's attached to the carpeting behind the driver's seat using heavy-duty Velcro. It adds a lot to the system, although when the top is down it is of course difficult to hear anything. (It's worth it, though.  ) I have the Sub turned off for the Winter, however; I noticed that when the weather turned colder the Sub wasn't responding well, and I realized operating it in very cold temperatures could potentially damage it (the flexible components are less so in the cold.) I have a bad history with audio components, and am just realizing that operating them in freezing cold weather may have contributed to their failure.So, Weinertron, what kind of advice were you looking for? If your audio components are fine and the speaker just malfunctions when wet, then install the baffling and you're all set to go. Something like these would do: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT65/XTC-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-3-1-4-depth.html?tp=2809. If you're looking to upgrade your whole system, well I'd absolutely recommend the speakers above unless you want to install a whole component system. I'm sure some of the other guys in the thread can help to recommend the rest of the parts.
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Jan 21, 2010 04:35
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Atomizer posted:So, Weinertron, what kind of advice were you looking for? If your audio components are fine and the speaker just malfunctions when wet, then install the baffling and you're all set to go. Something like these would do: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_237XT65/XTC-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-3-1-4-depth.html?tp=2809. If you're looking to upgrade your whole system, well I'd absolutely recommend the speakers above unless you want to install a whole component system. I'm sure some of the other guys in the thread can help to recommend the rest of the parts. I'd really like to do the whole system, but I don't want to spend much money and don't want much better than stock. I'll only be doing the upgrade if the stock ones would cost more than $15 to fix. Thank you very much for showing me those parts!
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Jan 21, 2010 06:12
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Seconding the Kenwood KFC-C1739ie. I recently got some used for $35 on ebay to go with a Pioneer DEH-P5100UB ($102, also used from ebay). You don't need to drill any holes to install them. Apart from my doors rattling when the bass is too loud they sound fine.
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Jan 21, 2010 07:48
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Anyone seen or know anything about this ebay exhaust system? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p2759.l1259&item=360220949388&viewitem= looks like a racing beat rip off, but if it fits okay I'll buy it because the price is right.
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Jan 22, 2010 01:42
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aventari posted:Anyone seen or know anything about this ebay exhaust system? Looks expensive as hell for a muffler. I bought a full catback (although stock) for less than that.
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Jan 22, 2010 02:00
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I'm definitely interested in a cheap muffler. I don't give a poo poo about stainless or polished or stupid tips. Give me a mandrel bent system in mild steel with a straight through muffler and I'm happy. Can't find anything like that on my own for a 99 though. links?
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Jan 22, 2010 02:06
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Back when I thought my muffler was going bad (it was actually the cat) I was considering a Flowmaster 60 Series Delta Flow 2.25", #952462, for my NA. Not necessarily cheap, though. Link (http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3434) and bonus Youtube vid! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM7Pj__Oikw) Does anybody actually have one of these, and if so, how is it? As far as a cheap muffler goes, why not just go to a muffler shop (or your regular mechanic) and ask them?
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Jan 22, 2010 03:03
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Atomizer posted:Back when I thought my muffler was going bad (it was actually the cat) I was considering a Flowmaster 60 Series Delta Flow 2.25", #952462, for my NA. Not necessarily cheap, though. A simple muffler isn't the problem, I want the whole axle-back system with mandrel bends from the flange to the muffler and the exit piping. Plus the hangers. If I had easy access to a MIG welder again I'd just build it myself with a Magnaflow muffler (don't like Flowmasters myself) and some mandrel U-bends but I don't have access to one since my dad moved.
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Jan 22, 2010 03:27
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Hopefully I will soon be a member of the Miata army. Since my E30 got wrecked and insurance is giving me $1700 for it I've been trying to find a good Miata for no more than $2,000. The weird thing is I can't find any consistency with how people price these cars. Some times I find a 93 M Edition in good order for $2000 and other people want $4,000 for a beat rear end 1990. Any good tips on what to look for when I go to buy one? In my budget I'll probably be looking at a 1.6L and I've heard the early 90-91 models had an issue with their camshafts so I'm looking at a 92+.
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Jan 24, 2010 03:23
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90-91 had an issue with the crankshaft breaking its nose off when improperly removed to change the timing belt. Its almost a non-issue with proper work, and most trashed ones have died by now.
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Jan 24, 2010 04:37
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Baby Hitler posted:90-91 had an issue with the crankshaft breaking its nose off when improperly removed to change the timing belt. Its almost a non-issue with proper work, and most trashed ones have died by now. Ah crankshaft, that's what I meant. The problem is I don't know who worked on the cars prior and cars at this price don't come with much in the way of documentation. Luckily I've read that these cars don't have interference engines so I can take my time getting around to a belt & water pump change.
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Jan 24, 2010 04:45
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Blackdawgg posted:Ah crankshaft, that's what I meant. The problem is I don't know who worked on the cars prior and cars at this price don't come with much in the way of documentation. quote:Luckily I've read that these cars don't have interference engines so I can take my time getting around to a belt & water pump change. Also check for the CAS O-ring leak (is there signs of oil seeping at the back of the engine, possibly onto the heater hoses) and a really old radiator (green, brown, or translucent radiator plastic instead of black).
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Jan 24, 2010 06:15
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Baby Hitler posted:90- early 91 had an issue with the crankshaft breaking its nose off when improperly removed to change the timing belt. Its almost a non-issue with proper work, and most trashed ones have died by now. Fixed that for ya. And I agree that it's mostly a non-issue any more... and most of the people who own 90 - early 91's thought so too. The short-nose crank issue stopped being an issue about mid-way through 91. And even for the others, it's not an issue for quite a few early 1.6s out there, though I do agree with kimbo305 about documentation. Were I looking, I'd just look for a clean 91 and up. Checking the VIN sequence for 91s with and without the short-nose issue is easy. Anything in 91 that is 209446 or lower is short-nose, anything after that is long-nose. More Info Though as a caveat, I have to say that both my 91s are late-year, one B package and one BRG, though that's not because I was specifically looking for later model cars when I bought each of them. Also, that being said, depending on what the OP wants, I'd look more at 94-97 these days, as there are far more parts for 1.8L motors than there are 1.6L motors, if you're interested in go-fast parts. I've got two 1.6s and I'd like to find a good 1.8L NA to replace the B-package beater.
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Jan 25, 2010 19:20
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kimbo305 posted:Also check for the CAS O-ring leak (is there signs of oil seeping at the back of the engine, possibly onto the heater hoses) and a really old radiator (green, brown, or translucent radiator plastic instead of black). This got me good. Its amazing what that oil can do to a coolant hose. It was so perfectly placed there too!
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Jan 25, 2010 19:36
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Hey guys, I need some opinions on my '01. Over Christmas I got caught out in a winter storm and long story short I wound up doing a very impressive figure skating routine 3 times off the highway. Ever since when my engine is cold it hesitates around the 3-3500 RPM range. I suspect it's a fuel system problem or something mass airflow sensor related. My theory is all the car spinning in circles stirred up some poo poo in the gas tank and it's doing bad things. That or else it's mass airflow sensor related and just a coincidence that it started up after the winter storm. Either of these sound feasible to you guys? Basic problem: Cold engine - give it 1/3 to 1/2 throttle engine revs , hits 3,5000 or so RPMs and stops revving up, I give it a bit more gas and then it lunges like I matted the pedal to the floor. Has never done this, warm or cold in the last 9 or so years of car ownership so it's really bugging the poo poo out of me.
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Jan 25, 2010 19:56
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Ziploc posted:This got me good. Its amazing what that oil can do to a coolant hose. It was so perfectly placed there too! I had CAS seepage onto my heater hoses. Blew a fine mist of coolant everywhere when it went.
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Jan 25, 2010 19:57
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PadreScout posted:Hey guys, I need some opinions on my '01. Over Christmas I got caught out in a winter storm and long story short I wound up doing a very impressive figure skating routine 3 times off the highway. Ever since when my engine is cold it hesitates around the 3-3500 RPM range. I suspect it's a fuel system problem or something mass airflow sensor related. My theory is all the car spinning in circles stirred up some poo poo in the gas tank and it's doing bad things. That or else it's mass airflow sensor related and just a coincidence that it started up after the winter storm. No check engine light? If there is, I would get it read first. Other than that I would check on the maf sensor first. Unplug and plug it back in to see what that. Also reset the ecu to get that outta the way too. That problem sounds like when my camshaft position sensor started thermaling out on me, but the only thing is mine threw a code.
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Jan 25, 2010 20:01
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Frank Dux posted:No check engine light? If there is, I would get it read first. Other than that I would check on the maf sensor first. Unplug and plug it back in to see what that. Also reset the ecu to get that outta the way too. No, no lights, just lovely running. Ok, I'm gunna go out and try this.
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Jan 25, 2010 20:06
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Had the CEL come on for me this past Thursday. It threw one three months ago; it was an emissions-related code the mechanic described as the gas cap being pulled while my keys were in the ignition and a single misfire. I figured it was a similar code this time around, but before I took the car to pep-boys this Sunday, the CEL went off. I didn't think you could get that to happen on an NB without a scantool. In any case, I'm gonna clean the intake and get some standard sparkplug wires, as I'm right at the mileage where carbon buildup becomes a problem, and the wires are non-standard anyway. Anyone ever here of the NB's clearing CEL's on their own?
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Jan 25, 2010 20:50
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bladernr posted:Also, that being said, depending on what the OP wants, I'd look more at 94-97 these days, as there are far more parts for 1.8L motors than there are 1.6L motors, if you're interested in go-fast parts. I've got two 1.6s and I'd like to find a good 1.8L NA to replace the B-package beater. I'd like to find a 1.8L but I don't think I'll be able to find one in my budget within a reasonable time and in good condition. I think I'd rather have a nice 1.6L than a 1.8L that needs a new top or some work done to it. I'm not too worried about parts I've owned quite a few European beaters and even the most obtuse Miata part is still 100x easier and cheaper to get than BMW & Volvo stuff.
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Jan 25, 2010 22:48
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Yesterday I installed new springs, shocks and swaybars on my 99. I thought the Miata was a nice handling go-cart before, but now it's totally sweet. H&R Race springs, Bilstein Sports, Racing Beat front and rear sways with the front bracing kit. It took a friend and I about 6 hours and everything went straightforward except for a bolt that holds on the undertray was rusted and broke off. I got lucky in that of all the bolts we touched, that was the least important, it's not even that necessary. I was amazed when doing the shocks how little suspension travel the Miata actually has, it's crazy. I left the bumpstops alone on the rear and on the front I cut them down about an inch on the first rib. I didn't measure but it sits about an inch lower and looks sweet. The ride is hardly rougher at all, but it stays completely flat in the corners. A+++ would buy again Anyone want to buy stock '99 springs/shocks/swaybars with 69k miles? The stock shocks are in surprisingly good shape. I would guess they would last another 60k.
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Jan 25, 2010 23:07
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Blackdawgg posted:I'd like to find a 1.8L but I don't think I'll be able to find one in my budget within a reasonable time and in good condition. I think I'd rather have a nice 1.6L than a 1.8L that needs a new top or some work done to it. I'm not too worried about parts I've owned quite a few European beaters and even the most obtuse Miata part is still 100x easier and cheaper to get than BMW & Volvo stuff. What's your budget and where are you? And by parts, I didn't state that as well as I could have. I mean't that there are far more aftermarket parts, suspension, engine, fuel management, intake, etc, for the 1.8L motors from 94 - 05 than there are for the 4 years the 1.6L was available. Not so much repair parts, but upgrade parts... And honestly, there is VERY LITTLE price difference these days between any NA model, aside from the limited/special edition ones. Any of the regular package cars are mostly going to run in the same price range, give or take $1K or so. You should look more for the generation (NA, NB, NC) and then look for cars in that generation that fit your budget. I've seen plenty of 4 - 6 thousand dollar NBs mixed in with similarly priced NAs and a couple $10K+ NAs 91s as well. Pricing is really all over the board for the first generation cars, and really depends on A: shape, B: location, C: time of the year, D: what it's worth to you.
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Jan 25, 2010 23:12
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aventari posted:Yesterday I installed new springs, shocks and swaybars on my 99. I thought the Miata was a nice handling go-cart before, but now it's totally sweet. gently caress, I was thinking of going along this line too except maybe Bilstein HD's instead. Then I got a pretty good deal on a used set of Gaz coilovers in roughly the same spring rate. Now I'm debating selling one or the other... How's 325f/275r working out for you? And why didn't you cut the rear bumpstop? I thought that was where you needed more travel compared to fronts.
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Jan 26, 2010 00:40
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Ok, it won't be until mid-March at the earliest until I can remove the hardtop, but I'm already getting ready for it. This time, though, I'd like to store it in the garage on a hardtop rack/carrier. In the past it has been stored in a purpose-built ledge in the roof of the garage, but I've never been comfortable with it being there as it's always a challenge getting the top up & down from there, and even with padding the paint on the roof got a little scuffed. So, I'm curious as to what you guys do with your hardtops in the summer, what experience you have with the various carriers/racks out there, and any buying tips you may have regarding them. I read about people using hoists to hold the tops in their garages, and I'm wary of that idea for the same reason I don't like the current ledge: I don't want my top anywhere that it could fall, because I neither want to damage the top nor the vehicle below (or a family member, of course.) I also read about people creating their own hardtop racks from wood, and I'm actually interested in this. I've never attempted something like this before, but it sounds like a cool project. I'd just have to figure out the right dimensions & materials (especially regarding padding.) Beyond that, I was looking at racks like the following: http://www.gomiata.com/hardtopcarrier.html http://www.gomiata.com/hardtopcart.html I'd prefer something along the lines of the second link, since it holds the top upright and takes up the least amount of floor space. I'm just worried about the weight not being evenly distributed. I also think I could model a self-made cart off the photo, and make it for significantly less than the ~$240 it would cost to buy that new & ship it.
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Jan 26, 2010 02:23
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bladernr posted:What's your budget and where are you? My budget is around $2k and I'm in FL. I'd like to keep it around 1,500-1,800 so there's money available to fix any pressing needs. I've found several 1.6L cars that fit this in good condition with around 120-140k mileage. Sadly now that I have the insurance check they've all vanished. I don't know what I plan to do with upgrade parts. I'd like to get a roll bar, an actual roll bar not a ebay special. Maybe a cone filter because I'm a ricer like that and probably just replace the bushings with polyurethane ones. Any track days or autocrossing will be purely for fun and not competition. I also plan on a few road trips to fun roads like Tail of the Dragon. Other than that the car will just be a fun A-to-B car that I can park anywhere and rack up miles on.
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Jan 26, 2010 02:41
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Blackdawgg posted:My budget is around $2k and I'm in FL. I'd like to keep it around 1,500-1,800 so there's money available to fix any pressing needs. I've found several 1.6L cars that fit this in good condition with around 120-140k mileage. Sadly now that I have the insurance check they've all vanished. Yeah, they go fast, especially in your price range and in warm-weather states. Honestly, for $2K you're going to be looking for a while for something that isn't flogged to hell. If you can swing it, you can find some REAL nice ones in the 4-5K range usually, but they go fast under normal circumstances. My own experience: my B package cost 1800.00. I called the guy about 20 minutes after it showed up on CL in the Raleigh, NC area. I was caller number 5, and this was a pretty worn 91 w/ auto, bad paint and a top with a torn rear window. Most of the ones I've seen for sale in the Mid-Atlantic range, in good shape, start around $3K with most in the range I mentioned earlier. My second 91, the BRG was 4400, had 46K on the clock, new top and was in excellent shape save some minor digs and scratches, the typical painted dash nastiness and a torn driver seat. It was actually sold just before I came to see it, but the first buyer backed out, I was number 2 on the list. quote:I don't know what I plan to do with upgrade parts. I'd like to get a roll bar, an actual roll bar not a ebay special. Maybe a cone filter because I'm a ricer like that and probably just replace the bushings with polyurethane ones. Any track days or autocrossing will be purely for fun and not competition. I also plan on a few road trips to fun roads like Tail of the Dragon. Other than that the car will just be a fun A-to-B car that I can park anywhere and rack up miles on. Keep in mind that a roll bar, a good one, will cost you about a grand or so after you pay installation, though you can find some good ones used from race cars that are being stripped from time to time. Cone filters do you nothing. Read up on some better intakes, though realistically, all they do is make noise and don't do much for increased horsepower and such... if you REALLY want to have normally aspirated fun, look into ITBs. Also, you have until the last weekend of July. Miatas at the Gap. If you're from Florida, or never spent much time driving on mountain switchbacks, I'd suggest you go when there are others to hang out with and follow, and take it easy. I see a new wreck every time I go out there, 2 - 3 times a year. But it's a good time, and the beer swap is fun, as are the group drives around the Graham county area. Anyway, I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying one in the $2K range, but just know that to get one in that range and get it up to what you want, there's easily a chance that you'll spend an additional 1500 - 2500 to fix potential problems, unless you come across a real deal and get lucky and call in time
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Jan 26, 2010 03:50
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WTF, you need to come out when I goto the Gap. Are you still in the Raleigh area?
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Jan 26, 2010 03:55
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Phone posted:WTF, you need to come out when I goto the Gap. Are you still in the Raleigh area? Who, me? I go in July, and usually in the fall. Thinking about going in April, but we've also got a beach trip and a week at Fontana Village (I've got a timeshare out there) But yeah, I am still in the Raleigh area, well, out near Pittsboro, actually. I'd love to head out there with some others some time though... got some work to do first though... I need new tires, I'd like some shocks/springs.
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Jan 26, 2010 04:14
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bladernr posted:
I'm no stranger to a good mountain road I lived in the mountains in Germany for awhile but FL really sucks for any decent driving. Whatever mountain event my roommate and I plan going to we plan on hamming it up with a full 4-point harness, race suit with helmet and HANS device if only for the the funny looks the cops will give us as we go by at 20mph. Luckily I know some people at a race shop who can loan me these things.
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Jan 26, 2010 04:16
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Dragon's-Maw posted:gently caress, I was thinking of going along this line too except maybe Bilstein HD's instead. Then I got a pretty good deal on a used set of Gaz coilovers in roughly the same spring rate. Now I'm debating selling one or the other... The spring rate is great, it's really not that harsh on the street. I'm used to race springs and such in my Scirocco though so if you're sensitive to harsh rides it may not be for you. After installing everything, drifting around corners is a lot more controllable even with bald all-seasons and a hosed alignment. I didn't cut the rears because I didn't think about it until we'd already finished one rear strut. And then I did the front because I still have this FWD mindset that the front suspension does all the work and the rear kind of just hangs out there so it doesn't compress much anyway  Now that you mention it I'd like to cut the rear bumpstops as well, I should be able to jack the rear up and cut it with an exacto knife while it's on the car. I didn't go with coilovers because I'm more of a set-it-and-forget-it kind of person. Even if I got the coilovers with the best intentions of tuning them for the correct ride height and corner weight, I would probably just set them once where it looks good and get lazy and leave them there. I would definitely go with Bilstein sports though. Just from my experience with the sports in my VW's, they are really great shocks. Last forever and even though they're stiff it's never a jarring ride. What swaybars do you/are you running? edit: pics of suspension work for fun friend with front suspension + h&r's, bilsteins, RB sway  Click here for the full 1024x699 image. me putting tire back  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. aventari fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 04:17
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bladernr posted:Who, me? I go in July, and usually in the fall. Thinking about going in April, but we've also got a beach trip and a week at Fontana Village (I've got a timeshare out there) But yeah, I am still in the Raleigh area, well, out near Pittsboro, actually. I went in May and July last year. You at least need to attend some THSCC autocrosses.
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Jan 26, 2010 04:20
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I hang my hardtop by the rear latches from the ceiling. If you undo the philips screws on the chrome plate thingies you can easily string some wire or cable through the rear latches to hang it up. Ziploc fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 04:28
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Phone posted:I went in May and July last year. You at least need to attend some THSCC autocrosses. Yes, I do. I planned on going to two of them at Sanford last year, but both weekends I got hit with "Honey, we need to do this" or some sort of family gathering. I definitely want to do one though. I thought about taking the 91 auto to one with a cheap set of tires and just flogging the hell out of it, since it's a ~200K beater, but I have a very strong feeling that the 5-spd would be much more fun on an autocross track (or any track for that matter).
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Jan 26, 2010 18:49
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 So much work to do!
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Jan 27, 2010 19:10
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Firestone has a 35% off coupon right now and I'm considering getting a couple of new tires for my Miata. Are Bridgestone RE960 Pole Positions a good tire?
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Jan 27, 2010 19:23
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I got my hardtop today! off a 93 LE, some scratches but its gonna get re-painted or vinyled. I almost feel bad for how cheap I got it but that was the price they told me they wanted, and who am I to offer more? ($200)
crutt fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 01:10
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