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^^^ argh i'm going to need one of those very likely, i've never seen a 3 magnet one though, it might be superior if it's more durable than the 6 magnet one i've got. I got Bronto from Barf forums coming over tommorow with what I hope is a proper puller for my rotor, I just want to get that bastard off there. i'll take some pictures of the process if I can, it'll be interesting if we actually get if off and inspect the start clutch, the allen screws from backside are sheared I can imagine. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=45697.40 ^^^ I think I have something similar to this.
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Jan 23, 2010 10:13
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I too have a question about a gs500. So I'm manning up and finally finishing all the small things that need to be fixed on my '92 gs5000, one of which is replacing a leak(s) up near the valve cover gasket. Can you point me out which gaskets in the image below would be what I should collect? I'm thinking one of #2, 4 of #5, one of #9, and do I need #8?  I assume this is much harder than I think it is. Remove tank, get whatever cables there are out of the way, unscrew, remove crusty gaskets, put on new ones, re-screw? or is there something key I'm missing? Somewhat Related, I dont think I (or any PO, and the bike is over 33K miles) have ever adjusted valve clearances. Would you recommend I take a look at them? What tools would I need to adjust them if I did them?
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Jan 24, 2010 19:34
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What the hell is #8? Jesus, it's like someone accidentally put a dab of spraypaint on the microfiche. Bikebandit says it's an oil separator, it's cheap, I'd buy one just to have it. If you don't need it, shrug. In order to adjust the valves you're going to need some feeler gauges, and apparently a special tool plus shims. http://www.gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm I'm a little surprised that they use shims, but it is what it is. Here's a video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2015554469142545363 Z3n fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jan 24, 2010 |
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Jan 24, 2010 21:12
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So, on my new-to-me 2004 Wee-strom, the PO changed the oil religiously with some kinda fancy synthetic special motorcycle oil that's like $5/quart. Now, my philosophy with oil is "Whatever generic house-brand stuff is cheapest at the store". I've heard bad things about switching to dino oil from synthetic. Any opinions?
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Jan 24, 2010 21:20
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Tsaven Nava posted:So, on my new-to-me 2004 Wee-strom, the PO changed the oil religiously with some kinda fancy synthetic special motorcycle oil that's like $5/quart. Now, my philosophy with oil is "Whatever generic house-brand stuff is cheapest at the store". I always used Rotella 5w-40 in my CB750 and it seemed to hold up great, never had any issues with the clutch, and it was pretty cheap to buy by the gallon. I went with the full syn Rotella on the CBR though. Still cheap for a synthetic oil, I think I paid 14/gal for it. They came out with a new version that's actually JASO-MA certified, but it's about 20/gal so no cheaper than what your Wee's PO was buying.
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Jan 24, 2010 21:47
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Hughmoris posted:While applying some throttle it appears to run just fine. Its pretty loud and I'm thinking I might have a slight exhaust leak. I don't know the proper terminology for the parts but where the exhaust pipe exits the engine (the header?) the bracket there that holds the pipe flush to the engine is a little loose There is a nut that is missing on one side so one side of the bracket isn't flush to the engine. I don't know if that could cause the backfiring but I'm going to go to a parts store tomorrow and see if I can find a nut for it. Just to continue this. I got a nut to tighten down the exhaust bracket where the pipe meets the engine head. The constant popping when I engine break is now gone but it seems like I'm getting a single loud backfire now instead. It will backfire once every time I pull in the clutch to downshift. Any ideas?
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Jan 24, 2010 22:49
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Z3n posted:
Haha poo poo, that video is over a hour long. Looks simple enough, though. Thanks! Bikebandit is dicking me on shipping for these parts, I think I'm just going to pick them up locally.
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Jan 24, 2010 22:52
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ok, dumb question. I just ordered a rebuilt stator and a rotor puller for my 82 honda hawk. Is it hard to pull a rotor?
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Jan 25, 2010 01:41
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BotchedLobotomy posted:I assume this is much harder than I think it is. Remove tank, get whatever cables there are out of the way, unscrew, remove crusty gaskets, put on new ones, re-screw? or is there something key I'm missing? Nothing key that I can tell, but my Kazasaki 500 has a similar gasket to the #2 one. The manual says a small amount of RTV sealant should be placed at the corners of those semi-circle tabs. Like, a very, very thin film. I'm assuming you get a poor seal in those sharp corners and the RTV fills those tiny gaps in.
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Jan 25, 2010 02:31
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Tsaven Nava posted:So, on my new-to-me 2004 Wee-strom, the PO changed the oil religiously with some kinda fancy synthetic special motorcycle oil that's like $5/quart. Now, my philosophy with oil is "Whatever generic house-brand stuff is cheapest at the store". I'm of the opinion that oil is oil for streetbikes. However: Some bikes like some types of oil. If your bike shifts nicely, and then stops shifting nicely after you change the oil, it may be worth it to stick with the expensive stuff. For example, my SV went from delightful shifting (at 135k) to like rowing a box of rocks, after I switched to cheap oil. Then it fragged the transmission. So...yeah, I use rotella in the streetbikes, and motul in the trackbikes. I haven't had that bad shift feeling with Rotella, so I figure it's probably good. Shempt_The_Mighty posted:ok, dumb question. I just ordered a rebuilt stator and a rotor puller for my 82 honda hawk. Is it hard to pull a rotor? Ask infraboy!  It shouldn't be that bad. You don't need to pull the rotor to replace the stator though, unless you have some really oddball setup. The repair manual for the CB400 I worked on said you need the rotor puller but you don't. BotchedLobotomy posted:Haha poo poo, that video is over a hour long. Looks simple enough, though. Thanks! I've dealt with that a lot recently...exhaust gaskets for the 636 on bikebandit? 15$. At the dealership? 5$. What the gently caress? Plus the dealership always has stuff for me within 2-3 days. Whereas bikebandit is nuts, 7 days to fill the order and then another 7 to ship it to me.
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Jan 25, 2010 03:09
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Z3n posted:
this is a cb450t, so it should be similar. How did you get around pulling the rotor?
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Jan 25, 2010 03:18
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:this is a cb450t, so it should be similar. How did you get around pulling the rotor? On all the motorcycles I've worked on, the stator is attached to the stator cover. So you pull the cover off, and off comes the stator as well. There's bikes out there with different setups, but they're significantly less common. I made the mistake of trusting the manual rather than what made sense, got a bolt they said to use for a puller (it was the wrong size) and didn't need a puller after all.
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Jan 25, 2010 03:22
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Z3n posted:On all the motorcycles I've worked on, the stator is attached to the stator cover. So you pull the cover off, and off comes the stator as well. There's bikes out there with different setups, but they're significantly less common. I made the mistake of trusting the manual rather than what made sense, got a bolt they said to use for a puller (it was the wrong size) and didn't need a puller after all. yeah, I am reading the manual too. It does appear that I need a special tool to get to the stator itself though. Like in this diagram. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1982-honda-motorcycle-cb450t-hawk/o/m1970 not sure how i would get to the stator without taking off that cover on the assembly. Is that that stator cover? Shemp The Mighty fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Jan 25, 2010 |
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Jan 25, 2010 03:33
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crap....that did not show what i was talking about. It is the left crankcase cover slide.
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Jan 25, 2010 03:35
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:crap....that did not show what i was talking about. It is the left crankcase cover slide. It looks like you might actually need the puller...but if it's not your primary transportation, I'd at least pop the cover off and check it. Repair manuals, especially the non-factory ones, do occasionally get bad info in them.
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Jan 25, 2010 03:40
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Awesome. Thanks.
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Jan 25, 2010 03:45
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what happens if you crash a naked bike or a touring/racing bike you stripped from the fairings, you damage mechanics instead of mostly plastic? or do most people have a crash guard for that
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Jan 25, 2010 13:38
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Teus posted:what happens if you crash a naked bike or a touring/racing bike you stripped from the fairings, you damage mechanics instead of mostly plastic? or do most people have a crash guard for that Plastics don't provide a whole lot of protection in the first place.
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Jan 25, 2010 15:10
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Tsaven Nava posted:So, on my new-to-me 2004 Wee-strom, the PO changed the oil religiously with some kinda fancy synthetic special motorcycle oil that's like $5/quart. Now, my philosophy with oil is "Whatever generic house-brand stuff is cheapest at the store". As long as the oil you get is the proper weight motorcycle oil (or good for use in motorcycle engines) you should be good. I've been told the "once you use synthetic you have to keep using it" thing is just an urban legend.
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Jan 25, 2010 16:01
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Teus posted:what happens if you crash a naked bike or a touring/racing bike you stripped from the fairings, you damage mechanics instead of mostly plastic? or do most people have a crash guard for that Plastics offer little protection, and cost more. When I crashed my sv 1000 it totalled the bike because to replace all the plastics and tank cost a lot. Get some "frame sliders" for your bike, they kind of look ugly but they absolutely will save your bike at all speeds.
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Jan 25, 2010 18:03
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Teus posted:what happens if you crash a naked bike or a touring/racing bike you stripped from the fairings, you damage mechanics instead of mostly plastic? or do most people have a crash guard for that On a touring bike, crash bars, on a track/racebike, frame sliders, swingarm sliders, axle sliders, bar end sliders, and engine cover sliders. Ideally, the bike goes down and you can just pick it up and ride it back to the pits/keep racing. I'd consider running engine sliders on a touring bike that had exposed engine covers, as I've seen too many trips ended by a holed engine cover.
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Jan 25, 2010 18:42
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Jack the Smack posted:Plastics offer little protection, and cost more. When I crashed my sv 1000 it totalled the bike because to replace all the plastics and tank cost a lot. They actually didn't save my SV650 at under 30 mph. At least not according to the shop. It would actually be a good choice for someone planning to repair a salvage title since all it really needs is a shifter and a fork seal to be perfectly ridable.
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Jan 25, 2010 19:44
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Endless Mike posted:It would actually be a good choice for someone planning to repair a salvage title since all it really needs is a shifter and a fork seal to be perfectly ridable. oh reeaally...check your PMs 
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Jan 25, 2010 20:15
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Friend of mines gs450 had some metal shavings in the oil when he changed it. Also it has been sounding weird lately. What to do? Open it up and have a look?
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Jan 27, 2010 12:31
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No. Sell it quickly to some poor unsuspecting schmuck.
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Jan 27, 2010 13:08
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So I bought that 2006 V-Strom DL1000 I was looking at... wow. It's so much drat fun! I have been riding scooters forever, so this is my first real bike. All I can think about is riding it, it's making going to work really hard! I'll post pics and an update later in the "Show us your Ride" thread. Anyways, just wanted to make sure that it's OK if a bike clunks a bit into first gear. Mine does this, and it doesn't seem to be a big deal but just wanted to make sure.
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Jan 27, 2010 17:54
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niethan posted:Friend of mines gs450 had some metal shavings in the oil when he changed it. Also it has been sounding weird lately. What to do? Open it up and have a look? What sort of sounding weird? It's on it's way out though, regardless. Radbot posted:So I bought that 2006 V-Strom DL1000 I was looking at... wow. It's so much drat fun! I have been riding scooters forever, so this is my first real bike. All I can think about is riding it, it's making going to work really hard! I'll post pics and an update later in the "Show us your Ride" thread. Yes, clunk into first gear is normal. If it bugs you, make sure the RPMs are relatively low when you put it into first, and pump the clutch a couple of times before you pop it into gear, that'll even it out a bit. It'll be worse when it's cold, typically. Sometimes oil will change how it shifts too.
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Jan 27, 2010 18:02
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Radbot posted:So I bought that 2006 V-Strom DL1000 I was looking at... wow. It's so much drat fun! I have been riding scooters forever, so this is my first real bike. All I can think about is riding it, it's making going to work really hard! I'll post pics and an update later in the "Show us your Ride" thread. The 1000 does that. It helps if you preload the shifter a bit by wedging your boot under it before shifting. You might also check chain slack as mine gets more clunky as the chain stretches.
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Jan 27, 2010 22:36
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Z3n posted:What sort of sounding weird? It's on it's way out though, regardless.
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Jan 27, 2010 22:39
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niethan posted:Metallic knocking, dependent on the rpms. It's hosed. Could have dropped a valve, could have toasted a bearing.
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Jan 27, 2010 22:44
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When I ride for longer than, say, 45 minutes, I get back pain. It's kind of on the sides of my back, a little below the shoulder blades. By sides I mean it's not spinal pain or anything, and it's not lower back pain. I've only been riding a year and I've always had pain when riding for a while. If anyone else has experience with this problem, is it more likely to be a posture problem, ie slouching, or a handlebar height problem? I'm pushing 6'5" with sloppy posture whether standing or sitting, and ride a Triumph Scrambler.
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Jan 28, 2010 01:04
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Uhhh i've pretty much read the triumph boneville and scrambler aren't meant for people taller than 6'1". You need to just get a bigger framed bike.
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Jan 28, 2010 02:56
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quote:Friend of mines gs450 had some metal shavings in the oil when he changed it Did the shavings look like this?   One of his conrod bearings is probably hosed like mine was 
MrZig fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 03:09
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Watommi posted:When I ride for longer than, say, 45 minutes, I get back pain. It's kind of on the sides of my back, a little below the shoulder blades. By sides I mean it's not spinal pain or anything, and it's not lower back pain. I've only been riding a year and I've always had pain when riding for a while. If anyone else has experience with this problem, is it more likely to be a posture problem, ie slouching, or a handlebar height problem? I'm pushing 6'5" with sloppy posture whether standing or sitting, and ride a Triumph Scrambler. You could try changing bars to something with more rise, but fix your posture you slob. Suck your gut in and hold yourself up with your abs.
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Jan 28, 2010 03:22
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Watommi posted:When I ride for longer than, say, 45 minutes, I get back pain. It's kind of on the sides of my back, a little below the shoulder blades. By sides I mean it's not spinal pain or anything, and it's not lower back pain. I've only been riding a year and I've always had pain when riding for a while. If anyone else has experience with this problem, is it more likely to be a posture problem, ie slouching, or a handlebar height problem? I'm pushing 6'5" with sloppy posture whether standing or sitting, and ride a Triumph Scrambler. First, are you relaxing your back? Second, wider bars may help. Bars are pretty cheap, so if you don't like em, no biggy.
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Jan 28, 2010 07:02
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MrZig posted:Did the shavings look like this? It was much much less, like a teaspoon full max. Also your shavings look crumply and broken off, his had clean sharp edges.
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Jan 28, 2010 08:06
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I noticed that sometimes, but not all the time, when I shift from first to second it's pretty clunky (although the clunky shift to first gear has been explained... thanks guys!). What might be causing this? I'm pulling the clutch all the way in, why would it be clunking on the way to second? Maybe I'm not pulling up my foot fast/hard enough? Sorry for the dumb questions, I've got my MSF BRC scheduled
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Jan 28, 2010 08:07
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I find that happens if you shift too slow - the bike snaps into neutral, and then into 2nd. Get used to giving it a solid bump and it shouldn't do that.
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Jan 28, 2010 08:24
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Watommi posted:When I ride for longer than, say, 45 minutes, I get back pain. It's kind of on the sides of my back, a little below the shoulder blades. By sides I mean it's not spinal pain or anything, and it's not lower back pain. I've only been riding a year and I've always had pain when riding for a while. If anyone else has experience with this problem, is it more likely to be a posture problem, ie slouching, or a handlebar height problem? I'm pushing 6'5" with sloppy posture whether standing or sitting, and ride a Triumph Scrambler. Weak ab muscles? Do situps and see if that helps. You might want to look into helibars or something.
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Jan 28, 2010 14:35
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Radbot posted:I noticed that sometimes, but not all the time, when I shift from first to second it's pretty clunky (although the clunky shift to first gear has been explained... thanks guys!). What might be causing this? I'm pulling the clutch all the way in, why would it be clunking on the way to second? Maybe I'm not pulling up my foot fast/hard enough? Sorry for the dumb questions, I've got my MSF BRC scheduled Possibly. I think to myself "Shift with authority!" whenever I do that. You don't hurt the bike by applying more force when you shift. In fact, it's better for it because the dogs will engage more cleanly.
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Jan 28, 2010 16:12
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