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Mark Larson posted:Firestone has a 35% off coupon right now and I'm considering getting a couple of new tires for my Miata. Are Bridgestone RE960 Pole Positions a good tire? Yes, Yes they are. My dad has them on his miata, I have them on my SHO. They're excellent for an all-weather tire - but unless you plan on driving your miata in snow, I'd suggest going for a high performance summer.
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Jan 28, 2010 01:38
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crutt posted:I got my hardtop today! off a 93 LE, some scratches but its gonna get re-painted or vinyled. I almost feel bad for how cheap I got it but that was the price they told me they wanted, and who am I to offer more? ($200)
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Jan 28, 2010 01:45
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Hog Obituary posted:Dear God, $200? You pretty much stole it from them. Is it OEM? Sure is! Sure looks kinda weird orange and red. It was off a 93 LE that the guy had wrecked, sat in the garage for 6 years, and is now mine! had to drive like 60 miles to pick it up.
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Jan 28, 2010 01:48
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bladernr posted:Fixed that for ya. And I agree that it's mostly a non-issue any more... and most of the people who own 90 - early 91's thought so too. Yes earlier 91s, but its a non issue if done properly. I've never actually seen a bad snout b6, even with the pre-Miata GTX engines that the Miata shortnose came from in the first place. It takes some pretty shoddy repair work and just bad practices to cause the problem. Its a combo of over/understorquing, corrosion, and just general poo poo workmanship.
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Jan 28, 2010 01:55
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So I drove through a puddle last night (burst water main), and shortly after the car died and would not start. At the time it happened the first thing I noticed were that my lights seemed to have gone out, then they came back. The car kind of spluttered a bit then came good, then a further 50m down the road it just lost power completely and I had to pull over. Had a look this morning and it seems I don't have a spark. All the fuses look fine. I don't think it would be water through the intake as the engine bay seemed pretty dry at the time, and the puddle was deepest on the driver's side (right hand drive). The whole right side of the car got wet, but the left side was dry. The heat symbol is on on the dash (cat? - I think this is a Japanese thing only), but no check engine light. I've tried shorting across GND-TEN in the diagnostic box, but I get no check engine light at all on the dash when I put the car into ignition. It sounds like I should get at least the CEL on for 4s or so? Any ideas? Car is an NA6 Eunos Roadster (Jap import), and bone stock. Edit: Apparently I don't have a CEL!?! But this looks promising. mattah fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 05:18
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Hello Miata Goons This weekend I will hopefully be picking up my first miata. I have a small garage and another daily driver so this will be a fun car that can handle some downtime. I have no immediate autox or track plans but those will always be a possibilty when this car is involved. I have 3 NAs that I will be considering, and I can honestly see myself ending up in any one of them. I'm going to post some info below, please weigh in on what you think. My mechanical skills/tools are mediocre but my original intent for this car was to have something fun to throw around and wrench/learn on that won't completely bankrupt me. I'm in the NE so winter time it won't see much duty. Ok, on to the fun part: Option 1 – '90 w/Hardtop, 156K Pros – Megasquirt, HD rollbar, Hardtop, cooling upgrades, solid maintenance, Nardi Wheel/MOMO hub, Kosei K1’s (whatever) Cons – No softop/rails, body is meh (paint, slight wheelwell rust & dents), 1.6, no LSD Target Price – 2800 – max 3200 (asking 3500) Option 2 – '91 BRG M Edition w/ Matching Hardtop, 53K! Pros – Read above!, Haven’t seen it but assume everything’s in great shape, all sorts of extra covers, walnut wheel/shiftnob, unf! Cons – 1.6, not sure if it’s SNC or not, too nice? Price, Maintenance ? (there may be records, don’t know yet. seller is an older woman, kinda mysterious) Target Price – 3700 – max 4000 (She's asking 5400 but I told her my budget and she said come see it anyway) Option 3 – '94 – 108K no hardtop Pros – Price, 1.8, Torsen (90% sure based on options), Good Maintenence records, excellent starter platform. Cons – it’s not BRG, windshield will need to be replaced by March, small tear in back window, body/paint not so hot, slight wheelwell rust. Target price 2250, max price 2500 (agreed upon) Plan is to see option 2 first, followed by options 1 and 3. Owners of 1&3 are young and knowlegble, no idea about option 2 owner besides the fact that her add was very well written but included no pictures. I feel like I can probabaly follow the used miata checklist and find some things to complain about on the garage queen BRG, but will she go for such a price drop? Not likey but worth a shot. Ok, which would you pursue the most? Edit VVVV: I'm 32 years old, this would be my 6th car- I can baby a car if it's worth it, just not my original intent when I started thinking about the miata - all 3 are looking good enough to consider, that's my problem. Bud fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 16:49
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I would have steered you away from the BRG if you were a college student because that car would have been destroyed throughout your college career. The first car looks good as a weekend driver and/or beater, and the third one sounds like it could be a fun project (if you wanted).
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Jan 28, 2010 17:42
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Option 1: You probably won't get him much lower at all than 3500. I wouldn't. Though if it's got "slight" wheel well rust, there's a good chance it's got bad rust unseen on the inside of the panels (assuming the drain holes are plugged, as they are on most NAs). Option 2: As a BRG Owner, I would definitely recommend this one... especially at low miles and a hard top. But I have a soft spot for the BRGs, so my opinion is certainly biased. NONE of the BRGs have the short-nose crank. They were all built toward the end of the model year run. Or at least, when doing the research on my own, I never found one that was made before the engine switchover. If it's in good shape, then with that mileage and including a hard top and all the covers (tonneau and boot), it's certainly worth 5400. mid 4K without the top... Option 3: Agree with Phone on this one... if you buy it, get glass coverage on your insurance, wait a month, and get them to replace it. It'll cost you a 50.00 deductible in most cases, and you get a new windshield. Same as Option 1 regarding rust... LOOK CAREFULLY. Of the three, the BRG seems the best shape, and I heart BRGs, so that would be my first choice, HOWEVER, I do agree with Phone that Option 3 sounds like a great starter platform, and there are far more aftermarket options for 1.8L motors than there are for the 1.6L motors.
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Jan 28, 2010 18:14
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Thanks guys, in all cases I feel the sellers are asking a fair price - it's up to me to bargain and having options as well as time only helps. To be honest I feel like #3 is the most sensible, but then again what is sensible about buying an unecessary 2nd car? About the glass, wouldn't I need a visual inspection prior to comprehensive coverage. I have gieco and IIRC when I changed the deductible on the comprehensive of my current car, they made me take to an authorized shop and they snapped a few photos and filled out a checklist. If that's the case, they would still honor a windshield replacement? I can always get on the phone and ask but that would tip my hand a bit. BTW: Option #1 seller is moving to Isreal soon and taking his DD mini with him, so he's a motivated seller. Edit2: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=363437 - some info on the BRG and a reason why there's no pics. Looks like my $3700 target was pretty close Bud fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 18:26
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Bud posted:About the glass, wouldn't I need a visual inspection prior to comprehensive coverage. I have gieco and IIRC when I changed the deductible on the comprehensive of my current car, they made me take to an authorized shop and they snapped a few photos and filled out a checklist. If that's the case, they would still honor a windshield replacement? I can always get on the phone and ask but that would tip my hand a bit. Yay Geico... I've only used Allstate, Farm Bureau and Nationwide and the only one that ever wanted pics for Comp was Allstate, and even then, all they did was ask me to take them myself and e-mail them to the agent. And yeah, reading that thread, 3700 may not be so bad, though she already turned down $3500, so who knows. After reading all that, I'd have to see it in person and then make an offer.
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Jan 28, 2010 21:37
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Shark teeth are so played out. Oh wai... Glad I got new tires last month. 
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Jan 29, 2010 23:07
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Previa_fun posted:Shark teeth are so played out. Oh wai... Baleen whale teeth
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Jan 30, 2010 09:39
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I got my Miata the other day! It's a 1990 5speed with 174k on the clock. It came with a stack of service documentation including a complete engine rebuild in 2001 for the crankshaft issue. New convertible top with glass window, not a hint of rust and really good paint. There's only a couple minor things, the driver side window has a 1/8" gap between it and the top seal. Also interior lights only work if you jiggle them around. I might have paid a little much for it at $1700. Anyway here are some pics! Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.
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Feb 2, 2010 02:35
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I guess I should mention that I actually bought a Miata. 1997 5sp with I think 95k on it. Here is how it currently sits. It could use some cosmetic love but it's mechanically sound.
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Feb 2, 2010 03:18
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I noticed FatCow's car seems to have a similar issue as mine... Anyone know how to fix the hood gap? On mine it seems that it sits higher right around the hinge, but if I push straight down on it, it'll line back up... I haven't figured out how (if any) to adjust it.
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Feb 2, 2010 03:44
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Amelios posted:I noticed FatCow's car seems to have a similar issue as mine... Anyone know how to fix the hood gap? On mine it seems that it sits higher right around the hinge, but if I push straight down on it, it'll line back up... I haven't figured out how (if any) to adjust it.
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Feb 2, 2010 03:50
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Blackdawgg posted:I got my Miata the other day! It's a 1990 5speed with 174k on the clock. It came with a stack of service documentation including a complete engine rebuild in 2001 for the crankshaft issue. What did they put in? A 91.5+ long block?
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Feb 2, 2010 04:29
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Ziploc posted:What did they put in? A 91.5+ long block? Not really sure I just have a parts invoice without much details about the specific parts. But it was done at a reputable Miata specialty place in Tampa. One can only assume and hope they just fixed the issue completely.
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Feb 2, 2010 04:58
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I took the wheels off my 2007 yesterday to see how bad the rotor rust was from it sitting on the lot 8+ months, but it wasn't bad, all surface rust. I did notice my car has Bilstein shocks, naaaiiiiicceeee.
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Feb 2, 2010 06:11
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Blackdawgg posted:the driver side window has a 1/8" gap between it and the top seal. Might be worth it to look at / replace the window regulator. It took me about 2 hours going by the online picture guide and being totally green at any sort of interior work.
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Feb 2, 2010 08:25
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Blackdawgg posted:I got my Miata the other day! It's a 1990 5speed with 174k on the clock. It came with a stack of service documentation including a complete engine rebuild in 2001 for the crankshaft issue. New convertible top with glass window, not a hint of rust and really good paint. There's only a couple minor things, the driver side window has a 1/8" gap between it and the top seal. Also interior lights only work if you jiggle them around. I might have paid a little much for it at $1700. Anyway here are some pics!  Anyway have fun with that cup holder, when you discover that actually using it makes it very awkward to shift. Mine is mainly used to hold my USB stick for my music (the connector is wired underneath the center console), receipts and tissues and crap.
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Feb 2, 2010 11:11
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kimbo305 posted:Might be worth it to look at / replace the window regulator. It took me about 2 hours going by the online picture guide and being totally green at any sort of interior work. Or cut the weatherstripping and fill it with foam since the rubber has probably collapsed. I think there's an article in the garage on miata.net about it.
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Feb 2, 2010 12:57
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PancakeTransmission posted:I've said this a lot but gently caress your american prices for thinking that under $2k is over paying!  .PancakeTransmission posted:Anyway have fun with that cup holder, when you discover that actually using it makes it very awkward to shift. Mine is mainly used to hold my USB stick for my music (the connector is wired underneath the center console), receipts and tissues and crap. Yeah I got one of these and it works great, you screw it to the passenger side of the center console and it flips out of the way when not in use. DreamOn13 posted:Or cut the weatherstripping and fill it with foam since the rubber has probably collapsed. I think there's an article in the garage on miata.net about it. I probably need to do this, if I brake when it's raining a few drops of water make it in from the top front corner of my windows. Luckily it doesn't rain here very often. ape fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Feb 2, 2010 |
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Feb 2, 2010 16:47
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ape posted:I probably need to do this, if I brake when it's raining a few drops of water make it in from the top front corner of my windows. Luckily it doesn't rain here very often. My 97 does this. gently caress If I know how to fix it. Windows meet the seals just fine. 
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Feb 2, 2010 18:01
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pacheco posted:I took the wheels off my 2007 yesterday to see how bad the rotor rust was from it sitting on the lot 8+ months, but it wasn't bad, all surface rust. Why would a car rust if it was just sitting in a parking lot anyway? Why are you parking a 2 year old car for 8 months?
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Feb 2, 2010 18:03
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I think he meant brake rotors, and they will flash rust if the car gets wet at all while sitting - even just a day, and I think he meant sitting at the dealer before he bought it.
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Feb 2, 2010 18:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think he meant brake rotors, and they will flash rust if the car gets wet at all while sitting - even just a day, and I think he meant sitting at the dealer before he bought it. The brake rust made my brakes squeal like crazy for the first two weeks I drove a car that had been sitting for a month or two. I was worried that my brakes would break.
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Feb 2, 2010 18:38
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Blackdawgg posted:Not really sure I just have a parts invoice without much details about the specific parts. But it was done at a reputable Miata specialty place in Tampa. One can only assume and hope they just fixed the issue completely. Given that you've got a rebuilt motor, this may not really apply, but at least from the factory, one way to tell was to look at the crank pulley. 8 holes = long-nose 4 holes (or was it 6) = short-nose
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Feb 2, 2010 19:11
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I just learned about the messed up cooling flow in the stock motor. It enters at the front of the motor at the bottom, goes up past the first cylinder and goes out the front again. what the gently caress. That sounds like a recipe for constant head gasket failures around the #4 cylinder and that's alarming. I'm taking my 99 to the track next month and other than exhaust+headers, the motor will be stock, including an old radiator that's turning brown on the top. Am I going to have cooling issues? I will leave the heater on as a precaution but I'm a bit worried. I'm thinking of running a 20/80 coolant/water mix + water wetter to help things out. I'm also seriously looking at the Mtuned cooling reroute. http://949racing.com/m-tunedmiatacoolantreroutesystem.aspx Since I'm going to have this car a while, proper cooling IMO is one of the keys to a long lasting motor. What are your thoughts? Does this cause a lot of problems in the Miata community?
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Feb 3, 2010 09:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think he meant brake rotors, and they will flash rust if the car gets wet at all while sitting - even just a day, and I think he meant sitting at the dealer before he bought it. n8r posted:Why would a car rust if it was just sitting in a parking lot anyway? Why are you parking a 2 year old car for 8 months? The car has rust on the actual hub, not on the contact surface, that disappears after driving for a bit. I purchased this car at the beginning of January, it had been sitting on the dealer's lot for 8 months or so. It has nothing wrong with it at all! I was just wondering if this amount of rust was normal. It looks close to this: http://tinypic.com/mbkgmr.jpg There isn't so much rust on the surface where the rotor touches the wheel, but there's more in the center, or the hub. I will take off the wheels soon and get an actual picture. Its all surface rust, a wire brush seems to take it off no problem.
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Feb 3, 2010 10:11
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aventari posted:I just learned about the messed up cooling flow in the stock motor. It enters at the front of the motor at the bottom, goes up past the first cylinder and goes out the front again. I'm curious about this as well. I'm replacing all my heater hoses and getting a new radiator, but I'm not planning on the reroute before I track the car this spring. The engine is stock, only suspension and chassis upgrades.
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Feb 3, 2010 13:42
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I'm not an expert, but I don't believe the cooling situation is as dire as you make it out to be. It's definitely non-ideal, but I think with a stock motor it's sufficient. I don't think you need to keep the heater on or fret about it at the track. That said, the coolant reroute will improve things and if you decide to do it, I hear the M-tuned one is the best choice.
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Feb 3, 2010 17:11
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With a stock motor, there's not much to worry about, but once you add on FI and you're tracking it, the coolant reroute is a good insurance plan to prevent detonation in CYL 4. You might want to do some reading over at miataturbo.net, there should be plenty of threads on the subject. Aventari, I'd just grab a CXracing or Mishimioto all-aluminum rad off ebay and call it a day in your situation, you have to replace it anyway, so you may as well get a nicer one for a couple more bucks.
destructo fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 17:59
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Bud posted:
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Feb 3, 2010 20:49
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^^Good deal! Did it come with a wideband for the MS? Get out your laptop and start tuning!
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Feb 3, 2010 21:05
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I know most of you miata goons aren't socal guys, but the miata challenge series started up again this past weekend. Anyone who can should come out, its a lot of fun and street class could use some competition. https://www.miatachallenge.com
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Feb 3, 2010 21:25
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The miata challenge is fun I ended up tied for fifth in street class and only went to 2 events. I probably will not make it out to any this year, due to lack of job and a leaky water pump.
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Feb 3, 2010 22:53
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How timely: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMmjaaSQP08
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Feb 3, 2010 23:02
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Holy crap! I like how he just sits there in a daze afterward. I'm sure my reaction would be somewhat similar. Did that car have a rollbar/cage?
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Feb 3, 2010 23:31
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Harddog Rollbar (probably Hardcore). He said that the rollbar split the hardtop in two.
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Feb 3, 2010 23:35
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