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Watommi posted:When I ride for longer than, say, 45 minutes, I get back pain. Definitely try out new bars. And definitely try to adjust your general posture, it will really make you feel better about yourself and healthier overall. And for all those people with minor back pains and problems, do this:  I know it looks crazy, and it feels weird at first, but I credit this exercise with preventing me from suffering the fate of my entire family when it comes to back pain. Also, it really helped reduce fatigue on long rides.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:05
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Bob Morales posted:Weak ab muscles? Do situps and see if that helps. You might want to look into helibars or something. god you people are weird. I'm 6'6", I get pain in the same spot because tiny jackasses made your bike and made it too short. Depending on what you can get, handlebars positioned farther forward maybe by making a piece to extend the forks, or a seat designed for your butt to rest between where the 'normal' seat and the passenger seat would be on a angry little dwarf. I had to get a bike over 1000 ccs to find a cruiser that I could crank the bars over without hitting my knees. HAD TO HAD TO HAD TO. It wasn't an option. For instance, there's no such thing as handlebar extensions. had to.
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Jan 29, 2010 06:13
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:god you people are weird. Couldn't you just get custom bars made? Or bend them yourself?
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Jan 29, 2010 06:40
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Z3n posted:Couldn't you just get custom bars made? Or bend them yourself? HAD TO
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Jan 29, 2010 08:19
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:god you people are weird. What about risers?
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Jan 29, 2010 16:03
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:where the passenger seat would be on a angry little dwarf. I'm really having fun imagining an angry little dwarf with a passenger seat strapped to his back.
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Jan 29, 2010 16:46
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Doctor Zero posted:What about risers? It's rude to answer for others but I think "1000cc HAD TO HAD TO" is an appropriate answer here as well.
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Jan 29, 2010 17:40
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:HAD TO I've got this hilarious mental image of a guy pulling the OJ glove trick. "Look, salesperson, MY KNEES HIT. SHOW ME THE BIG BOY BIKES!" 
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Jan 29, 2010 17:58
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Ola posted:It's rude to answer for others but I think "1000cc HAD TO HAD TO" is an appropriate answer here as well. you get me, bro.
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Jan 29, 2010 19:07
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So last season was my first time riding, I bought a v-star 650 and had a great time. I put the bike down for the winter at the start of December. I parked the bike in my backyard, put it up on blocks, put stabil in the gas tank, disconnected the battery, then put the cover on. When i went to restart the bike today, my turn-signals on the left side of the bike flash really quickly, the back right light doesn't come on at all, and the front right light works normally. when I turn the signals on it makes a very loud clicking sound every time the lights flash on. When i first started up the bike I could smell something almost burning like melting plastic. I shut it off right away. I'm a bit of a newbie so I'm at a loss for what to do exactly. I thought that the bulb might be burned out, but would that cause the other signals to flash twice as fast like that? Any help here would be much appreciated cuz I would love to get back on the road asap!
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Jan 30, 2010 00:17
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Have you checked that mice and stuff haven't been living on your wiring?
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Jan 30, 2010 00:21
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Z3n posted:Have you checked that mice and stuff haven't been living on your wiring? Yeah I just went over it with a flashlight checking for anything wierd and it looks clean, just like it did when I left it.
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Jan 30, 2010 00:45
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Alright, you are correct in that the bulb being burned out will make it blink twice as fast, so replace that and you'll fix issue #1. Have you checked that you didn't get a plastic bag or anything stuck up against the exhaust that caused that burning smell?
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Jan 30, 2010 01:19
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Z3n posted:Alright, you are correct in that the bulb being burned out will make it blink twice as fast, so replace that and you'll fix issue #1. Have you checked that you didn't get a plastic bag or anything stuck up against the exhaust that caused that burning smell? Just got the signals working again, was a burned out light bulb. The smell however I am still not so sure about, I am going to run it for a bit and see if i can pinpoint a source or something. Thanks for your help Z3N you made my first newbie troubleshooting experience a little easier on me 
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Jan 30, 2010 01:35
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Cipher posted:Just got the signals working again, was a burned out light bulb. The smell however I am still not so sure about, I am going to run it for a bit and see if i can pinpoint a source or something. Ha, no problem. I'd also check the oil, coolant, and if you want to be really paranoid, the charging system.
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Jan 30, 2010 01:40
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Another bulb-related question here. Today, both my front and rear brake levers stopped illuminating the rear brake light. It's lit, it just won't go into "I'm braking" mode. Obviously another stupid wiring problem, but I couldn't see any issues upon first inspection. Anything I should check beyond the rear bulb wiring connector?
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Jan 30, 2010 01:46
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It's a dual filament bulb, so you can burn out the brighter filament. Do you have one light in the braking assembly or 2? Check the wires at the rear brake connector. You should have a ground, a 12v lead that is hot all the time, and one that goes hot when you pull the lever/push down on the rear brake. If it's going hot but the bulb isn't lighting, bad bulb. If it's not going hot, check the switches. Having them both fail at once is rare to the point of absurdity, so I'd be inclined to say you burned out your bulb. Could also be a broken connection somewhere from the switch to the rear connector too.
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Jan 30, 2010 01:53
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Z3n posted:It's a dual filament bulb, so you can burn out the brighter filament. Do you have one light in the braking assembly or 2? Going to have to wait til the morning to really look at it, but it's looking like the bulbs (two in the assembly) burned out. Kind of strange that they burned out at the same time though.
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Jan 30, 2010 02:13
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AncientTV posted:Going to have to wait til the morning to really look at it, but it's looking like the bulbs (two in the assembly) burned out. Kind of strange that they burned out at the same time though. One was probably burned out for a while, and you just didn't notice. Finally the other one went, and bam.
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Jan 30, 2010 04:23
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Ah, that would make sense  I forgot I hadn't replaced these when I got the bike.
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Jan 30, 2010 04:26
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AncientTV posted:Ah, that would make sense On the bright side, now you've truly got the bike of Theseus 
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Jan 30, 2010 04:29
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Z3n posted:On the bright side, now you've truly got the bike of Theseus The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > Cycle Asylum > What did you do to your ride today? Had to replace my VIN number today, IS THIS MY SECOND BIKE NOW?
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Jan 30, 2010 04:57
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I'm 6'3" and nothing feels better than being a giant person on a tiny sport bike.
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Jan 30, 2010 05:41
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the poo poo doesn't end with my bike. yesterday night I got home and fiddled around with it and left the contact on, now the battery is dead. no lights go on. should I go buy a trickle charger to get it running again?
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Jan 30, 2010 11:18
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Tried bump-starting it?
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Jan 30, 2010 12:14
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Tried bump-starting it? I had an accident and the front brake doesnt disengage, plus there's snow on the road. Probably I'll just try to find starter cables in town, it's something you need anyway
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Jan 30, 2010 12:19
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Ok, got the rotor puller for my hawk and went out to pull the rotr and noticed that the crank case has a crack. As far as i can tell there is no oil or anything that goes there. It just covers the rotor and stator. Is this going to be a problem or do I need to start looking for a replacement crank case? edit - not the crank case, but the cover for it. Shemp The Mighty fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jan 30, 2010 |
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Jan 30, 2010 15:33
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Well I bought some cheap starter cables, made a small tour and let it idle for 20 minutes. Now it's starting again, problem resolved. As for my front brakes: they still don't disengage fully, I can hear them scraping the discs when I ride. Never worked on brakes before, never taken them apart and I dont know where they engage exactly. So I can't tell where they are dragging
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Jan 30, 2010 16:54
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:Ok, got the rotor puller for my hawk and went out to pull the rotr and noticed that the crank case has a crack. As far as i can tell there is no oil or anything that goes there. It just covers the rotor and stator. Is this going to be a problem or do I need to start looking for a replacement crank case? Where is the crack? As long as it's not near the bolt and it doesn't leak oil it's probably not a big deal.
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Jan 30, 2010 18:39
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:Ok, got the rotor puller for my hawk and went out to pull the rotr and noticed that the crank case has a crack. As far as i can tell there is no oil or anything that goes there. It just covers the rotor and stator. Is this going to be a problem or do I need to start looking for a replacement crank case? Do you have a picture of it? I'd consider just smearing some JBWeld on it for additional security, but it's probably not an issue. Teus posted:Well I bought some cheap starter cables, made a small tour and let it idle for 20 minutes. Now it's starting again, problem resolved. Letting the bike idle for 20 minutes usually doesn't charge the battery, FYI. The bike needs to be ridden. Some brake drag is normal. If you take it out around the block a few times, do the rotors get hot at all? If yes, then you have a problem, if no, then it's just normal brake drag.
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Jan 30, 2010 18:53
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the crack is right through the center of the cover, right through the honda insignia. I think the jb weld is the way to go. nothing to lose, right?
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Jan 31, 2010 00:39
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Shempt_The_Mighty posted:the crack is right through the center of the cover, right through the honda insignia. I think the jb weld is the way to go. nothing to lose, right? It's not one of those where the insignia is seperate from the cover, is it?
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Jan 31, 2010 02:30
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Z3n posted:It's not one of those where the insignia is seperate from the cover, is it? nope. One piece.
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Jan 31, 2010 04:33
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Edit: This isn't the What you did to your bike thread! Sorry.
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Feb 1, 2010 05:33
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Is it a vacuum petcock? If it is, you'll be able to blow through it while it's on prime, but not while it's on reserve or on.
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Feb 1, 2010 05:35
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So I think I just hosed up. Hard. Yesterday I spent the all day taking apart, cleaning, and re-jetting (factory pro) my carbs on my 96 XJ600 Seca II. Now, it won't turn over. Barely a splutter. I think the culprit would be the float bowl height. I know I did absolutely everything to the letter, except when it came to the float bowls. I wasn't entirely sure how to measure them, and what images I could find on the web were painfully small and hard to see. I ended up tilting them until the float "bobbed", and then measuring from the upper edge of the float bowl up to the top most part of the float. Then I bent the float tangs until the bowl was sitting 6mm above the edge of the float bowl. Can someone, anyone, please tell me how to properly measure and adjust float height? My bike is my only mode of transportation and until I can get it running again, I'm taking the bus. Thanks. EDIT: I've also just read a little on fuel level height as well. How does one go about measuring that? And just for reference, here are the specs for the float and fuel levels: pre:---------------------------- FLOAT LEVELS ---------------------------- U.S. spec: (ALL year U.S. models)6.2~8.2 MM (0.24~0.32 in) ---------------------------- FUEL LEVELS ----------------------------- U.S. spec: (ALL U.S. models) 4~6 mm BELOW the float chamber line (marked on the outside of carbs) ari.gato fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Feb 1, 2010 |
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Feb 1, 2010 14:24
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ari.gato posted:I ended up tilting them until the float "bobbed", and then measuring from the upper edge of the float bowl up to the top most part of the float. Then I bent the float tangs until the bowl was sitting 6mm above the edge of the float bowl. Sounds like you did the float heights correctly. Either way, the floats would have to be insanely out of spec to get to the point where the bike wont even sputter. The fuel level can be measured by attaching a clear hose to the float drain nipple on the bottom of the float bowl, running the hose up the outside of the carb, and opening the float drain screw. The fuel will flow up the hose to the same point that the fuel level is inside the bowl. You then compare the level in the hose to the level marker on the outside of the carb. If the fuel level is below the line, your float height is too far away from the carb body. If the fuel level is above the line, your float height is too close to the body. If its within a few mm, you're probably good enough.
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Feb 1, 2010 15:57
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How long did you crank it? Are you getting fuel in the float bowls? Dumb question but...does it have a vacuum petcock and did you get that line back on?
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Feb 1, 2010 17:22
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Diagnosis time! This is for an '03 Katana 750. I took all the fairings and the tank off yesterday to see if there was anything obviously wrong. There wasn't, my feeling is that the problem lies in the carbs, but before I go about taking them apart I thought I would get CA's opinion. When I start the bike after it's been sitting for more than a few days, it is very hard to get started. Will die even on choke, etc. I got it to start by setting it to Prime for a bit. Once it does start, if I roll on the throttle too much at idle it will die. I have to gradually increase the throttle a bit at a time until I can crank the throttle all the way without the bike dying. Usually after I do that it runs fine when I actually go out for a ride. Obviously this isn't a huge issue but I figured that as long as it's winter and I can't ride most of the time I might as well have a look.
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Feb 1, 2010 17:28
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Classic lean symptoms. I'm guessing stemming from both the carb and the petcock? The fact that it runs better on prime is worrying. When the petcocks fail on the oil-cooled Suzukis they tend to fail in a way that makes the petcock always open, so I'm doubting it straight up failed. Is the vacuum line that runs from the carb manifold to the petcock good? If it has any leaks or anything that is keeping it from holding vacuum it will not let as much fuel through as it should. On the carb side of things, your pilot circuit is probably gummed up, and the carbs should have a good cleaning regardless. I would troubleshoot the carbs first, get the bike running good on the prime setting, then troubleshoot the petcock.
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Feb 1, 2010 17:49
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