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Displacement makes torque. Carb helps top end.
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Jan 25, 2010 09:11
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KrazyKosher posted:
Are those just the stock ape hanger bars rotated forward? Dude...
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Jan 25, 2010 16:41
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bigbluetotoro posted:or buy a bigger one like a 14:12 and it will fit if it has the proper shim (plastic sleeve in the female part of the carb) I've heard that the Derbi shares a Tomos shim. Hey so it turns out my carburetor does have a big rear end crack on its fuel filter cover/input. Also it is missing a god drat gasket. So I will be purchasing a 14:12 when I have the money. What does shimming entail?
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Jan 26, 2010 02:16
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Senator Woofington posted:Hey so it turns out my carburetor does have a big rear end crack on its fuel filter cover/input. Also it is missing a god drat gasket. So I will be purchasing a 14:12 when I have the money. What does shimming entail? A shim is a thin piece of material used to make up a gap in clearance in something. Your carb will clamp onto the intake, which is a small pipe bolted on top of your engine. If you removed your carb, that's what you removed it from. To shim, you'd get a small bit of plastic and cut it to size, as the new carb is larger than the old intake. You may want to find an old innertube and cut that; rubber leaves less room for leaks if things are clamped down than thin plastic, and I don't even know where you'd buy something plastic to use; you do NOT want an intake leak. Alternatively, look into just buying a 14mm intake. Treats may have something.
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Jan 26, 2010 05:09
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ShaneB posted:Are those just the stock ape hanger bars rotated forward? Yeah. They didn't quite work out the way I hoped, so I'm getting some clubs.
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Jan 26, 2010 06:11
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clubmans are a bit severe. Don't make a bike that you don't like riding for the sake of looks. Some MTB bars are a good choice too. Or even drag bars.
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Jan 26, 2010 07:47
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It kind of looks silly to try to "cafe" out a non top-tank bike, no matter how you do it.
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Jan 26, 2010 14:05
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Also what does 12:12 mean versus 14:12. I get that one of those numbers is the size of the intake, but is it the diameter, the radius? What do these numbers mean!
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Jan 27, 2010 10:18
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I'm fairly sure it's diameter in mm. One number is at the choke opening. The other is throughout the rest of the carb.
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Jan 27, 2010 16:54
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I think that on a 14:12 it means the first number(14) is the opening where the air flows through the carb. and the second number (12) is the intake size of where it attaches to the intake. so if it has a 12 as the second number it should fit your bike.
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Jan 29, 2010 20:57
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Hey guys, hoping I can get some help with an electrical problem. I have a Tomos Sprint from 1993 that I got up and running. My current issue is this: when it's running the headlight comes on just fine (it does dim when the bike is idling, but I think that's typical). But as soon as I brake, the headlight cuts out. It comes back as soon as you release the brake, but obviously being plunged into darkness when stopping is not really a good thing. The problem is that I can't work out why it's happening. I have what I think is the wiring diagram from MA:  I admit that I have some trouble reading it, but I can't work out how closing the brake switch would open the headlight circuit. Am I missing something? The only other thing that I can think of is that the bulbs in there are wrong such that the headlight + running light + brake light are too high of a draw on the generator, so nothing lights up? My intuition says they should dim way down instead of cutting on and off as cleanly as they do, though.
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Feb 4, 2010 13:48
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Something is miswired somewhere. That diagram isnt going to tell you why its happening. What you need to do is plop down in front of your bike, and make sure that its wiring matches that diagram exactly. Someone along the line plugged something in where it doesnt belong, plugged something in backwards, or didnt connect something that should be connected. Once you get the bike wired like the diagram, things should be fine.
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Feb 4, 2010 15:37
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Alright. I have a multimeter so I should be able to just sit down and check the connections - I've checked some of them already, but I'll start from the top and check everything. I was trying to make sure it wasn't some sort of feature of the circuit itself; I know some bikes have their lights wired up so that they won't start if the brake light is out, although this would be a particularly terrible arrangement. I'll try and run through the wiring when I get home tonight. I do have one additional question, though. I can pretty much make sense of everything in the wiring, the lights and switches are pretty clear. Judging from the hookups, I think that the 'Electronic Box' is the coil that sits above the ignition assembly, and the 'AC Regular' is the wiring box on the far side of the bike from the ignition. But I'm not clear on what the two things in the upper right of the diagram are. Are those grounds to the chassis?
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Feb 4, 2010 16:21
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Does the brake light actually turn on when you hit the brakes? I'm guessing no. On the diagram the green wires come from the handbrake switches and go to the brake light. It sounds like there's a short somewhere in that wire. Edit: To explain: When you hit the brakes, the brake light is wired in parallel with the headlight. If the green wire grounds before it goes through the brake light, there's effectively no resistance in that branch of the circuit, and current through the headlight drops to pretty much zero. PapaLazarou fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Feb 5, 2010 |
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Feb 5, 2010 01:04
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Just jiggle the cord. I'm so sorry
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Feb 5, 2010 01:05
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Ashcans posted:But I'm not clear on what the two things in the upper right of the diagram are. Are those grounds to the chassis? Yeah, it looks like anything with those gray rectangles (AC Regulator, Generator, Electronic Box) has a chassis ground. The two in the upper right are O-connectors that a bolt goes through and screws into something on the frame.
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Feb 5, 2010 18:06
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 here's my Puch Maxi Newport II...got it thursday and am in love. it hits about 40 (came kitted).
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Feb 7, 2010 03:42
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heyleroy posted:
Is that a kitted za50 or is it a e50 they swapped on the newport? You have the 1.5 seat and rack, too, which means someone swapped that on from the Maxi Sport (just like I did - I love how that looks.)
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Feb 7, 2010 17:55
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this is my garelli that is being reworked for me by austin mopeds. i went to them last week looking for a top-tank and then this beauty showed up on CL a few days later, so they snatched it and are rebuilding it. i am super stoked to go for the first test ride on tuesday! any problems with 84 garellis that i should be aware of, aside from the notorious clutch issue? 
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Feb 7, 2010 21:51
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eggyolk posted:Does anyone know where to find decent instructions for putting together one of these chinese 66cc 2-stroke kits? I've been searching all over other motorized bike forums and have only found some poor PDFs with tiny exploded views. I'm mainly wondering about the wiring but would like some more direction before diving in. How is your bike doing? about the wiring - blue to blue black to black - the white wire can power lights - i have it running 2 led pods that ive retrofitted in to old housings.  this shows the engine powering a maglight bulb.  led pod.
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Feb 11, 2010 20:54
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ShaneB posted:Is that a kitted za50 or is it a e50 they swapped on the newport? You have the 1.5 seat and rack, too, which means someone swapped that on from the Maxi Sport (just like I did - I love how that looks.) I think it's an e50 because he mentioned swapping. It's one of the Latebirds old bikes...they're having a rally next month and I think I'm gonna go. https://www.latebirdsla.com if any of you want info. edit: it's a 65cc metrakit heyleroy fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Feb 24, 2010 |
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Feb 12, 2010 05:57
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 Click here for the full 800x600 image. Ok, so I think I'm finally finished. After I chopped and ground what I needed to, I completely took it apart, taking pictures and carefully labeling everything. I then went to work on all of the chrome with steel wool and various steel bristled bits until all of the rust was removed. Next, I did all of the body work and paint. I did eight coats in all. Two primer coats, four color coats and two clears. I sanded between each one. After all the paint had dried, I was really surprised by how easy everything was to put back together. I then followed this wiring diagram. I got rid of the old taillight and put on a smaller one on. Considering that was the first time I had ever done my own electrical work I was pretty surprised when it started on the first kick. I mailed in my registration, but its taken the DMV a month already just to cash my check, so who knows when I'll actually get my plate  .
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Feb 20, 2010 08:33
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looks great! very clean. the MC11s look awesome on that.
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Feb 26, 2010 03:02
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http://vimeo.com/9903078 latebirds invitational video for the rally on the 12th.
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Mar 4, 2010 19:02
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So.. from: to this:  Took me three hours. I am quite happy with it.
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Mar 4, 2010 20:33
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heyleroy posted:http://vimeo.com/9903078 I have never wanted to live in LA before, and only occasionally want a moped, but this very much makes me want both. (I have access to plenty of clever hipsters, though)
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Mar 5, 2010 00:24
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tomorrow i begin the rebuild of the 103 for this upcoming rally season.
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Mar 5, 2010 01:56
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My 103 has blown crank seals, I think.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:08
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Nerobro posted:My 103 has blown crank seals, I think. what makes you say that? airleak woes?
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Mar 5, 2010 02:51
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wont idle, won't run under 2-3000rpm. Runs like god if I can get it started. Screams up over 10,000rpm. Basicly, it runs well at high rpm, and open throttle. As soon as you shut the throttle it does dead lean, and it takes some time for it to recover when you open the throttle.
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Mar 5, 2010 03:26
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heyleroy posted:http://vimeo.com/9903078 I had to go find a Flash Video Downloader and save that - My favorite moments are the girl with the pug  and the look on the guys face at the 2 minute mark - reminds me of Topher Grace in That 70's Show.
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Mar 5, 2010 05:27
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Unreal Fantasy posted:tomorrow i begin the rebuild of the 103 for this upcoming rally season. Nice, thats a pretty serious carb, what kind is it? I like the chamber too.
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Mar 5, 2010 05:58
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Phat_Albert posted:Nice, thats a pretty serious carb, what kind is it? I like the chamber too. its a 24mm flatside mikuni, i believe your avatar has a pretty awesome version of it! which will go on a 80cc parmakit with a doppler pipe.
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Mar 5, 2010 11:28
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Nerobro posted:So.. from: Wow. How in the hell did you do that?
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Mar 5, 2010 18:08
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Nerobro posted:So.. from: So how is it?
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Mar 5, 2010 18:44
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Slow, comfy. It's not even broken in yet. I'm still fiddling with the carb settings. The straight pull brakes mean it stops FAST. the bike was never assembled without a sprocket or other motored bike accessories on it. I had to mill a spacer to make the exhaust fit right. But that was the only real kink.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:53
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Who'd you buy? BoyGoFast?
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Mar 5, 2010 21:12
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the is it a grubee slanthead? - i was running a RAW motor in my first setup, and i have to say the slant with the "speed" carb is night and day vs the raw. 
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Mar 6, 2010 09:23
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Jabs posted:I have no idea what that is, besides 'unspeakably awesome'. haha-yeah those are the homeys. it's going to be a total blast, i can't wait. off chance that anyone is going to be at the rally next weekend?
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Mar 7, 2010 07:16
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Yeah they really stepped it up with that video. who knows how many times I've watched it by now. radcam=awesome. its poo poo like this that really makes me dread the East coast. when I always laugh at the part where all three black helmet dudes look over.
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Mar 7, 2010 18:53
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