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Just a question about oil getting burned: Do the additives get burned too with the oil at the same amount, or mostly just the oil burned? Because if I'm burning oil and constantly adding more, the amount of additives in the bike would certainly be much higher than what is normally standard.
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Feb 6, 2010 20:57
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Hay dudes, Can I take my old motorcycle oil to the motorcycle shop for them to dispose of?
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Feb 7, 2010 01:44
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Captain Apollo posted:Hay dudes, I take mine to the Autozone.
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Feb 7, 2010 01:59
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Jack the Smack posted:Just a question about oil getting burned: Do the additives get burned too with the oil They do, and end up as combustion chamber deposits. Hence the need for an occasional water torture or a seafoaming.
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Feb 7, 2010 02:26
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blugu64 posted:I take mine to the Autozone. Oh badass...! Do I need to bring it in a container or can I just bring the oil pan
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Feb 7, 2010 05:13
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Doctor Zero posted:I would expect that the engineers know best. My Honda's oil change interval is also strangely long, but then again so is my Jeep's. I think a lot of people are under the perception that more is better, if changing the oil at 3000 miles is what everyone says, surely doing every 1500 miles is better!? Seems somewhat wasteful. Hell I read in a magazine that some dude who works in a shop actually saves some of the synthetic oil that people dump when they change their oil after about 3000 miles and put it in his own car because it was still perfectly good oil. I think with modern engines and modern lubricants especially synthetics are incredibly clean and efficient these days. Hell a Porche 911 TURBO's oil change interval is 15k miles or one once every year with synthetic oil. Even the Honda F2 I bought has oil change intervals of 8k miles, thats pretty impressive for a bike made in 1993. If you think about it, synthetics were created for use in loving turbine engines and internal combustion engines don't reach nearly the same temperatures as those do. Then again I don't disaree completely with people who change their oil very often as it is still relatively inexpensive to do. It'd be interesting if someone bought 2 identical bikes and used the same exact oil in both only one was changed every 3k miles and the other every 8k. I'm sure these tests have been done with cars.
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Feb 7, 2010 06:05
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Captain Apollo posted:Oh badass...! I'd call up and ask if they accept old oil, but the one near me has a big tank in the back. I usually put it in an old 2 liter bottle.
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Feb 7, 2010 06:15
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infraboy posted:I think a lot of people are under the perception that more is better, if changing the oil at 3000 miles is what everyone says, surely doing every 1500 miles is better!? Seems somewhat wasteful. Hell I read in a magazine that some dude who works in a shop actually saves some of the synthetic oil that people dump when they change their oil after about 3000 miles and put it in his own car because it was still perfectly good oil. Don't forget that oil in a motorcycle is also shoved through the transmission, which is going to cause a fair bit of additional wear on it. There's an easy way to fix this though...just get a sample and send it off to blackstone. I plan on doing that with my sumo to make sure I'm ok at my normal intervals. Additionally, don't forget that there's a fair bit of additional oil in the sump of your typical car, it doesn't pass through the transmission, etc. Also, I'm fairly certain my F2 manual says 3k oil/filter changes, but I'll double check when I get home.
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Feb 7, 2010 07:09
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blugu64 posted:I'd call up and ask if they accept old oil, but the one near me has a big tank in the back. I usually put it in an old 2 liter bottle. And yeah, just spend the $40 bucks of whatever it is to have blackstone test your oil next time you change it. That'll let you know if you're changing it too often or if you can squeeze a few thou more out of it. I've been meaning to do it but every time I do my oil I keep forgetting 
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Feb 7, 2010 08:25
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Z3n posted:Don't forget that oil in a motorcycle is also shoved through the transmission, which is going to cause a fair bit of additional wear on it. My haynes manual says every 8k miles, valve adjustment/check every 16k.
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Feb 7, 2010 09:49
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Captain Apollo posted:Hay dudes, Get an old diesel truck and dump it in the gas tank, after filtering of course. I recycle my own oil.
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Feb 7, 2010 09:51
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I snapped two bolts on my inner engine cover and it's like $10 to get two of them shipped from bikebandit, so gently caress that. It's listed as "BOLT,6X25" and googling this seems to show a bolt that looks the same. Will any old 6x25 bolt work? What do those numbers mean?
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Feb 7, 2010 18:23
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The 6 is how wide the bolt itself is 6mm. The 25 is how long it is in mm. Probably any would work just as long as the head fits into your cases. I know most M6 bolts usually have a 10mm head on them so they may not fit into the holes in the case. You can always replace them with allen head bolts. They should fit anywhere. Also, I would try to get at least a grade 8 bolt so you don't have to worry about snapping it while tightening. Suzuki seems to be a fan of Grade 4 and I don't know how many times I've snapped a bolt that I was just snugging in, not even to the real tightening part yet. This may also have been due to dumbassedness on the part of POs though. EDIT: On the oil change interval deal, I change my oil when the bike starts shifting funny. The manual says 4k for changes and it seems to start shifting lovely between 3500 and 4500 so I guess they were pretty spot on.
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Feb 7, 2010 18:30
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hayden. posted:I snapped two bolts on my inner engine cover and it's like $10 to get two of them shipped from bikebandit, so gently caress that. It's listed as "BOLT,6X25" and googling this seems to show a bolt that looks the same. Will any old 6x25 bolt work? What do those numbers mean? They also need the correct size and spaced threads, and the same metallurgy.
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Feb 7, 2010 18:37
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Bugdrvr posted:The 6 is how wide the bolt itself is 6mm. The 25 is how long it is in mm. I assume higher grade means harder metal? They only snapped because I way over tightened them. Using higher grade just means that I'll strip the threads in the engine case rather than breaking the bolt, won't it? The heads stick out from the case, so head size doesn't matter.
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Feb 7, 2010 18:47
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A random powder coating question that is bicycle related, but I'll get a better answer here then the offroad bike thread. I'm looking to get my rim bands, forks, bars, cranks, and sprocket powder coated. Is there anything I should be looking for in a local powder coating shop for quality and prices, because I really have no idea what to be looking for. Also is there a good place that I could simply ship my parts too that is priced well and has a quick turn around time (a week or two). Since the bike parts are super light, MAYBE 5lbs combined at best, shipping it out to a company that could strip and coat them would probably be my best option for cheap pricing with good quality I assume. Any recommendations?
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Feb 7, 2010 19:41
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If there is a "Fastenal" store near you, try them. They have a good selection of fasteners. Be cautioned that they also have a selection of other things that you didn't know you needed until then and budget accordingly.
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Feb 7, 2010 19:53
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infraboy posted:I think a lot of people are under the perception that more is better, if changing the oil at 3000 miles is what everyone says, surely doing every 1500 miles is better!? Seems somewhat wasteful. Hell I read in a magazine that some dude who works in a shop actually saves some of the synthetic oil that people dump when they change their oil after about 3000 miles and put it in his own car because it was still perfectly good oil. I'm just saying if you don't feel comfortable for whatever reason to wait until 8k to change your oil, then doing it at 3k won't hurt anything. I'm not suggesting people should change their oil every 500 miles or something.
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Feb 8, 2010 16:31
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Just stopping by to learn more about motorcycles and decide what kind of first bike I want to save up for. How long has that link in the OP been broken? I want to learn more but http://www.biekwiki.com/index.php/First_bike has been down for at least 3 days  Any other recommended links?
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Feb 8, 2010 17:27
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Tsaren posted this in the bike recommendation thread. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html Should cover it better than the wiki. Maybe add it to the OP?
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Feb 8, 2010 17:52
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Doctor Zero posted:Tsaren posted this in the bike recommendation thread. http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html Fantastic! Gonna read this whole thing. Thanks!
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Feb 8, 2010 18:02
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Ehud posted:Fantastic! Gonna read this whole thing. Thanks! Oh hey, it's Ehud.  I thought that av looked familiar!  Have you already taken the MSF?
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Feb 8, 2010 18:05
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Doctor Zero posted:Oh hey, it's Ehud. Nope. Haven't even gotten that far yet  I'm just checking things out for the first time. My dad was a big motorcycle nut so I used to ride with him as a kid and I've had an affinity for this whole "world" ever since. It's just now become financially feasible for me to get serious about buying my first bike. I don't know anyone I can trust to help me get started, so I'm turning to you goons for good newbie resources.
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Feb 8, 2010 18:44
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Ehud posted:Nope. Haven't even gotten that far yet Bike goons give good advice. It worked for me. Just don't tell anyone if you are going to get a supersport as a first bike. 
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Feb 8, 2010 18:56
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Ehud posted:Nope. Haven't even gotten that far yet What sort of bikes are you attracted to? A lot of people come in and say "I want a motorcycle!", but that's walking into the library and saying you want a book. Do you have any specific preferences that could help us suggest something for you?
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Feb 8, 2010 19:44
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Z3n posted:What sort of bikes are you attracted to? A lot of people come in and say "I want a motorcycle!", but that's walking into the library and saying you want a book. Do you have any specific preferences that could help us suggest something for you? Based solely on appearance, I think the oldschool looking bikes are my favorite. The Triumph Bonneville and America look completely awesome to me. So to start out with I'd like something similar to that style. But for my first purchase, I'd like to spend a few thousand. Is that too much? Too little? I want to get something that I'll enjoy learning with that won't break my heart if I make some kind of stupid mistake. As far as what I plan on using it for - eventually it would be to take to work on nice days and drive around the city and up into the SC/NC mountains on the weekend.
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Feb 8, 2010 20:24
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Ehud posted:Based solely on appearance, I think the oldschool looking bikes are my favorite. The Triumph Bonneville and America look completely awesome to me. So to start out with I'd like something similar to that style. But for my first purchase, I'd like to spend a few thousand. Is that too much? Too little? I want to get something that I'll enjoy learning with that won't break my heart if I make some kind of stupid mistake. If you're looking for a cruiser type bike a Honda Shadow is a good place to start. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/1591566934.html , that price might be a little high, i'd talk him down to 2000$ at least. Most people here would probably recommend the Kawasaki ninja 250/500 or a Suzuki GS500, all of them can be had relatively cheap, figure around 2000-3000$ depending on mileage/condition. They are all just solid, easy to ride, and very fun bikes to have for a first one. I was a little intimidated from going to a 125CC at the MSF to a 500 but the Ninja/GS were still easy to ride and start on, plenty of power for the freeway, the ninja is a little more powerful because of it's liquid cooling/8valve design. But the GS is much simpler and a little easier to work on.
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Feb 8, 2010 20:40
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Ehud posted:Based solely on appearance, I think the oldschool looking bikes are my favorite. The Triumph Bonneville and America look completely awesome to me. So to start out with I'd like something similar to that style. But for my first purchase, I'd like to spend a few thousand. Is that too much? Too little? I want to get something that I'll enjoy learning with that won't break my heart if I make some kind of stupid mistake. I'd recommend buying a used GS500 or something like that until you can upgrade to a bonnie or a Kawasaki W650. Not so much because those bikes are too much for a new rider, but just because you'll be unhappy if you drop one. You could get an older UJM, too...something like a CB350-550...have you budgeted for training and gear yet?
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Feb 8, 2010 20:53
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infraboy posted:If you're looking for a cruiser type bike a Honda Shadow is a good place to start. I like the look of the Honda Shadow. I'll add that to my watch list, along with the Suzuki GS500. Is there anywhere other than Craigslist I should start looking to get an idea of the local market? Z3n posted:I'd recommend buying a used GS500 or something like that until you can upgrade to a bonnie or a Kawasaki W650. Not so much because those bikes are too much for a new rider, but just because you'll be unhappy if you drop one. I haven't looked into training and gear yet. Any numbers you can throw out there? I know I could spend a ton on gear alone, but what's a realistic expectation to get everything required to be safe?
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Feb 8, 2010 21:07
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Ehud posted:I haven't looked into training and gear yet. Any numbers you can throw out there? I know I could spend a ton on gear alone, but what's a realistic expectation to get everything required to be safe? Cover anything you don't want ground off in event of a crash (ie: everything). Costs vary widely depending on how much you bargain shop, but at least $500 - $1000 would be a safe number.
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Feb 8, 2010 21:28
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Ehud posted:I like the look of the Honda Shadow. I'll add that to my watch list, along with the Suzuki GS500. Is there anywhere other than Craigslist I should start looking to get an idea of the local market? You can check ebay, but it's really impossible to tell if bikes are actually selling or not based off of "winning" bids. I like craigslist and your local penny saver/car trader mags can sometimes have good deals in them too. quote:I haven't looked into training and gear yet. Any numbers you can throw out there? I know I could spend a ton on gear alone, but what's a realistic expectation to get everything required to be safe? Doc 0 is pretty much dead on. The ideal for gear is that you can get hit with a belt sander for ~3-5 seconds without it hurting you. 500$ is reasonable if you go used or get really good deals on cheap gear, 1k is more reasonable if you're valuing comfort and protection in equal measure. MSF costs depend on your state, and figure around 100-300$ a year for liability insurance.
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Feb 8, 2010 23:30
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Ehud posted:I like the look of the Honda Shadow. I'll add that to my watch list, along with the Suzuki GS500. Is there anywhere other than Craigslist I should start looking to get an idea of the local market? Look at spending at least 500 total, figure 100 at least for a decent helmet, 50-80 for gloves, around 150 on a leather jacket, personally I bought leather pants for about 140 and feel naked without them when riding, especially on the freeway, and at least 100 on boots. I got my stuff on https://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com they have some bangin deals, no sales tax at least here in CA, a lot of my stuff is from fieldsheer, they seem to make good quality but inexpensive gear.
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Feb 8, 2010 23:32
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Z3n posted:MSF costs depend on your state, and figure around 100-300$ a year for liability insurance. $100-300 a year for insurance? drat my area must hate motorcycles 'cause I was quoted at almost a thousand, plus the MSF which is $417...  gently caress yeah?
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Feb 9, 2010 00:08
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Sharp_angus posted:$100-300 a year for insurance? drat my area must hate motorcycles 'cause I was quoted at almost a thousand, plus the MSF which is $417... Try some different places for insurance. The online places I got quotes at were all very expensive - like $650-850 for a year. I ended up going through an all state agent locally for $400. That's full coverage on a new Kawasaki ER-6N.
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Feb 9, 2010 01:56
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Sharp_angus posted:$100-300 a year for insurance? drat my area must hate motorcycles 'cause I was quoted at almost a thousand, plus the MSF which is $417... Canada seems to be pretty bad on insurance no matter how you slice it. California seems to be pretty reasonable, I know there's some goons in other places in the US that get reamed pretty hard.
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Feb 9, 2010 02:02
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I got a speeding ticket, but then I took the driver's education class so I wouldn't get a point for it. But I went to renew my insurance and they're hiking my rates because of it. Does taking and completing the course not help my insurance rates, or is something wrong with their system that I have to go to the DMV about?
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Feb 9, 2010 02:04
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When I had two bikes it was a little over $400 for both of them for full coverage. Just the DRZ is like $218 (although they raised my rates due to recalculating poo poo this year boo).
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Feb 9, 2010 02:05
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Transmission question for ya'll. As a note, I don't have any service records for my bike. I need to replace a couple of gears, and to get to them i've got to get the second Gear taken off at a machine shop as it's pressed on there. My service manual tells me that the second gear can only be removed twice before the countershaft has to be replaced, as it will be deformed to the point that the gear will not stay in one spot. My question is, does the hydraulic pressing/removal leave any signs behind that it's been done? Would a mechanic upon seeing it, be able to say "Oh yeah, the gears have been pulled off before."? Or do I have to just try and see what happens? For the bare minimum liability insurance for my bike, Allstate wanted $122 a year. Farmers wanted well over $600. Shop around, it's crazy.
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Feb 9, 2010 02:13
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Jack the Smack posted:I got a speeding ticket, but then I took the driver's education class so I wouldn't get a point for it. But I went to renew my insurance and they're hiking my rates because of it. Does taking and completing the course not help my insurance rates, or is something wrong with their system that I have to go to the DMV about? If you can plead it down to a parking ticket then speeding doesn't show up on your DMV record. If it still shows as speeding on your record then they'll jack your prices up anyways.
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Feb 9, 2010 02:14
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Numinous posted:If you can plead it down to a parking ticket then speeding doesn't show up on your DMV record. If it still shows as speeding on your record then they'll jack your prices up anyways. So driving school doesn't actually do anything but waste my time?
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Feb 9, 2010 02:18
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