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Jack the Smack posted:So driving school doesn't actually do anything but waste my time? In the long run, yes.
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Feb 9, 2010 02:22
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Jack the Smack posted:So driving school doesn't actually do anything but waste my time? It should have dropped your point, but your company may not determine things based off your points, but instead based off of what shows up on your record. Chairon posted:Transmission question for ya'll. As a note, I don't have any service records for my bike. I'd think that there would be a wear spec or it should visibly deform or not be able to fit securely, but I've never dealt with pressed on gears before. If no one else can answer, I can call my mechanic friend and ask him.
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Feb 9, 2010 03:49
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Jack the Smack posted:So driving school doesn't actually do anything but waste my time? Bingo.
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Feb 9, 2010 04:30
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So my dad's bike has some kind of mysterious electrical thing, and I don't know what the gently caress. It's a late model Kawi Vulcan 2000, 05 or 06 or so. At some point, it just stopped doing anything when you turn the ignition key. -No headlight, no dash lights, no indication that there is power getting to anything. -I've checked all the fuses, verified that the battery has a charge by running a 12v air pump off it, and there's definitely power getting as far as the main 30A fuse. I've unplugged and replugged all the electrical connections that are easy to get to. What's the next step? Checking the ignition switch somehow?
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Feb 9, 2010 04:31
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Z3n posted:
That'd be nice, but I don't want to trouble you with this. All else fails I can just bring it into a bike shop and ask them. Thanks though!
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Feb 9, 2010 04:32
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Nate Falls posted:So my dad's bike has some kind of mysterious electrical thing, and I don't know what the gently caress. Can you wiggle the key to get any life out of it? Do the parking lights work? Failing that, I'd try hot wiring the ignition, do you have a repair manual? Chairon, it's no big deal for me to call him...need to talk to him about some other stuff anyways 
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Feb 9, 2010 05:48
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Jack the Smack posted:So driving school doesn't actually do anything but waste my time? Why would your insurance company care whether you did driving school? You got done for speeding, so they're going to see you as a bigger risk regardless of any action you took to avoid getting points on your license.
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Feb 9, 2010 07:41
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Why would your insurance company care whether you did driving school? You got done for speeding, so they're going to see you as a bigger risk regardless of any action you took to avoid getting points on your license. Driving a motorcycle with only liability should not hike my insurance as much as it does. ($1400 a year) Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 09:17 on Feb 9, 2010 |
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Feb 9, 2010 08:18
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Jack the Smack posted:Driving a motorcycle with only liability should not hike my insurance as much as it does. ($1400 a year) I'm in Australia so I'm not down with the insurance system over there, what does "only liability" entail?
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Feb 9, 2010 12:54
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Z3n posted:Can you wiggle the key to get any life out of it? Do the parking lights work? Failing that, I'd try hot wiring the ignition, do you have a repair manual? I can't get poo poo. No parking lights or signals. He told me that before it went totally dead, there were a few times he had to wiggle it to get some life out of it. I guess it's time to invest in a repair manual.
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Feb 9, 2010 15:10
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Nate Falls posted:I can't get poo poo. No parking lights or signals. He told me that before it went totally dead, there were a few times he had to wiggle it to get some life out of it. Thats always a good idea. It also sounds like it could be the Ignition switch itself, a bad contact or loose wire somewhere. Z3n posted:Chairon, it's no big deal for me to call him...need to talk to him about some other stuff anyways Well that would be totally awesome then. I'll owe ya one.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:30
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I'm in Australia so I'm not down with the insurance system over there, what does "only liability" entail? His 'auto' insurance policy doesn't cover him. If he is found at fault in an accident his company will pay for the other vehicle/people, but not for him. Health insurance would be a separate policy, I hope he has it. I have a friend with no health insurance, but great accident coverage on his auto policy. So if he crashes a motorcycle he gets health care, if he gets cancer he gets hosed.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:34
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EDIT: ^^^^^^^^  Here4DaGangBang posted:I'm in Australia so I'm not down with the insurance system over there, what does "only liability" entail?
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Feb 9, 2010 16:36
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Jack the Smack posted:Driving a motorcycle with only liability should not hike my insurance as much as it does. ($1400 a year) Have you shopped around? But...you are in basically the highest risk category on a supersport 1000, so that's doing you no favors.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:57
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Z3n posted:Have you shopped around? But...you are in basically the highest risk category on a supersport 1000, so that's doing you no favors. Still...he must either be young or have a shitload of tickets or something because that is super-high. What bike and how old Jack?
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Feb 9, 2010 17:11
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When I got a ticket in Texas and took the driving school it didn't raise my rates at all. And that was when I was 18. 
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Feb 9, 2010 17:48
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Z3n posted:Have you shopped around? But...you are in basically the highest risk category on a supersport 1000, so that's doing you no favors. Yes, shop around as much as you can. There was a HUGE difference in prices I was given. I went from pretty crappy liability only coverage on a CB750F that was around 160/year, let that lapse because the bike completely poo poo out on me. I got a buell 1125r last year and saw anywhere from ~1200/year to $358/year for GREAT coverage with state farm. 250/500k liability, un/under insured, $250 deductible for collision and 100 for comp, all with a 1mil umbrella that covers my car and truck as well. Granted, I'm 26 and my record is clean at this point (couple speeding tickets but they're over 5 years old) so that helps a ton. When I ditched the buell for the CBR my insurance went up a whopping 25 bucks. I called around again for kicks and had quotes over 1600 bucks on that one. It's completely nuts. Hit every insurance company you can, there's got to be a better rate out there for you.
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Feb 9, 2010 17:52
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If you belong to the AMA, you get a 10% discount on insurance (through nationwide, I think). Just tossing that out there. EDIT: Also, if you join the AMA and set-up automatic yearly renewals you get roadside assistance that covers anything you drive for free. Great deal.
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Feb 9, 2010 17:58
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Oakey posted:Still...he must either be young or have a shitload of tickets or something because that is super-high. What bike and how old Jack? SV 1000 05. It's the exact same cost as a CBR 1000 2008 too. 20yrs. I got one speeding, and also my accident which I posted about in April was logged on my record. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 9, 2010 |
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Feb 9, 2010 18:00
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Jack the Smack posted:I got a speeding ticket, but then I took the driver's education class so I wouldn't get a point for it. But I went to renew my insurance and they're hiking my rates because of it. Does taking and completing the course not help my insurance rates, or is something wrong with their system that I have to go to the DMV about? Insurance: We paid around $425 for the year for both the R1100RS and the Yamaha XS400 through a subsidiary of Farmers. 25k/50k Liability (collision, our fault, pays for their property damaged by us. We picked this limit in case we t-bone a new Mercedes who turned left in front of us, and we get a bad deal on the officer who writes the report while we're being airlifted from the crash scene.) 50k/100k Medical Payments (collision, our fault, pays for medical bills of the injured. c.f. above for why.) 25k/50k Un/Underinsured (collision, their fault, pays for our property damaged if they have no insurance, or less insurance than we have.) I'm pretty sure we got Collision and Comprehensive, too, so the bikes would be paid for if we crashed them on our own, or if they were stolen. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Feb 9, 2010 |
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Feb 9, 2010 18:37
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Jack the Smack posted:SV 1000 05. It's the exact same cost as a CBR 1000 2008 too. 20yrs. I got one speeding, and also my accident which I posted about in April was logged on my record. Haha, oh god you are boned, a literbike at 20. Sorry man. Like people said, call around, but you're probably going to be paying a lot. Try State Farm, that's what I use. I have a literbike too and it's only about 500/year but I'm older and have a totally clean record.
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Feb 9, 2010 19:00
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Oakey posted:Haha, oh god you are boned, a literbike at 20. Sorry man. Like people said, call around, but you're probably going to be paying a lot. Try State Farm, that's what I use. I have a literbike too and it's only about 500/year but I'm older and have a totally clean record. I have progressive insurance and it's about 350-360/ year for liability with both a GS500 and the F2, Also I have the equivalent of 5 points on my license Also it's about 9$ a year for roadside assistance from them, i've used it once it's very easy and simple.
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Feb 9, 2010 20:11
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Jack the Smack posted:Driving a motorcycle with only liability should not hike my insurance as much as it does. ($1400 a year) Ok, so after reading the other replies about liability insurance it is more or less what I expected it would be - of course they're going to jack your rates if you get a ticket. Them having to pay out money is based on whether or not you gently caress up and injure people/ruin their poo poo, so any traffic infringement is going to make you look like a worse risk to them, no?
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Feb 10, 2010 01:55
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Yeah, basically any moving violation shows them that you are irresponsible and a possible risk to them. I pay about $250 every six months for liability with uninsured/underinsured coverage about as high as it can go through State Farm. It's kinda high but I live in San Diego where everyone runs into everything all the time so I wasn't expecting miracles. My biggest worry was getting hit by someone with the state minimum of 15k liability or no insurance at all and being stuck in the hospital for weeks with no one to pay for it hence the high coverage.
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Feb 10, 2010 05:37
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I decided before I got my bike I would get a fully comprehensive riders policy, no matter what I bought. It's not cheap but it's worth it for the peace of mind. Once I hit 25 it dropped to pretty reasonable levels.
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Feb 10, 2010 16:45
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ReelBigLizard posted:I decided before I got my bike I would get a fully comprehensive riders policy, no matter what I bought. It's not cheap but it's worth it for the peace of mind. Once I hit 25 it dropped to pretty reasonable levels. Yeah that price I posted above for State Farm was pretty much the everything and the kitchen sink insurance. Don't like to have to worry about my bike being stolen, hit, health care costs, etc.
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Feb 10, 2010 17:02
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All this talk about insurance rates and tickets make me think I should figure out a way to mount my V1 on the bike... Anyone have experience mounting a radar detector on a sportbike? There's not a whole lot of real estate to work with on the bars. I have a tankbag coming soon, I'm going to try to see if it'll work worth a poo poo in the map pocket. At least that way it would be easily to take with me off the bike.
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Feb 10, 2010 17:14
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I too have been interested in radar, or actually laser detectors. It would be nice with a remote mounted sensor and remote mounted warning light so you could hide the main body somewhere for maximum stealth.
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Feb 10, 2010 17:26
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needknees posted:All this talk about insurance rates and tickets make me think I should figure out a way to mount my V1 on the bike... I know a number of guys who have used RAM or similar mounts to mount them looking through (or above) the windshield. If I was going to do it, I'd get one of those "remote" setups, and mount it into the dash or right above the dash, and hide the detector under the headlight. Wire it into a power distro block on a relay that turns it on and off when the bike is on or off, and you're good to go.
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Feb 10, 2010 17:28
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The problem with the remote setups is everyone I've seen is absurdly expensive. You're talking in the neighborhood of 1500-2000 bucks  . It doesn't really make any sense to me, since it's all pretty much the same poo poo, just with the sensors separated from the main unit. There's also the issue of if you stuff the sensor somewhere where it's hidden on the bike the effectiveness of detecting radar (not laser, since that's usually aimed at your headlight/front plate or in this case front of the bike) -- radar is picked up better by having the sensor centrally located and as high as possible.So basically, you're kinda hosed on a bike. I have looked at the RAM mounts, and it seems like a reasonable solution. Basically I'm going to have to go with something that either goes into the steer tube or I have seen a semi-custom mount that replaces the top cover of the factory steering dampener. The main issue to me with something like that is security -- I'm not too keen on leaving a $400+ radar detector just stuck on the bike in plain view. Whatever setup I end up with it needs to be easily removable.
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Feb 10, 2010 17:54
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So I adjusted my chain when I put my rear tire back on and the chain slack seemed fine for a bit. I walked out the other day and the end caps on the swingarm were moving freely and the chain was too tight. It seems like the caps are designed to prevent the chain from becoming too loose, but doesn't do anything to prevent it from getting too tight. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? Wheel is on at the right torque. edit: maybe I have this backwards oh god im so bad at this hayden. fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Feb 11, 2010 |
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Feb 11, 2010 05:18
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Are you missing a spacer? The chain will try and pull the wheel forward, so the chain tensioner should stop it from doing that. I'm not familiar with the KLR setup for tensioner, got a pic?
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Feb 11, 2010 05:57
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Z3n posted:Are you missing a spacer? http://www.freewebs.com/daddyjoe/red%20cap%20on%20chain%20adjuster.JPG Don't know about the spacer, but I don't think so. How you explained it is how it works, I think. I guess I just suck at getting it right, it's one of my least favorite parts of having a chain.
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Feb 11, 2010 06:40
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needknees posted:I have looked at the RAM mounts, and it seems like a reasonable solution. Basically I'm going to have to go with something that either goes into the steer tube or I have seen a semi-custom mount that replaces the top cover of the factory steering dampener. The main issue to me with something like that is security -- I'm not too keen on leaving a $400+ radar detector just stuck on the bike in plain view. Whatever setup I end up with it needs to be easily removable. Ram mounts take 20seconds to remove and unplug. They've got sticker shock but well worth it.
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Feb 11, 2010 06:52
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hayden. posted:So I adjusted my chain when I put my rear tire back on and the chain slack seemed fine for a bit. I walked out the other day and the end caps on the swingarm were moving freely and the chain was too tight. It seems like the caps are designed to prevent the chain from becoming too loose, but doesn't do anything to prevent it from getting too tight. this should only happen if you didn't torque the axle down enough
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Feb 11, 2010 06:58
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Armacham posted:this should only happen if you didn't torque the axle down enough Yup. Either that or you didn't tighten the adjusters down enough. What torque spec did you tighten it down to and are you sure you have all of the spacers?
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Feb 11, 2010 07:12
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Z3n posted:Yup. Either that or you didn't tighten the adjusters down enough. What torque spec did you tighten it down to and are you sure you have all of the spacers? tightening the adjusters, tightens the chain on the KLR, to loosen, you back them off and then wang on the axle/tire with a mallet to push it forward. torque on the axle nut should be about 70 ftlbs i've actually LOST the entire adjuster assembly before riding dirt, but there were no problems luckily because I had the axle good and tight. Armacham fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Feb 11, 2010 |
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Feb 11, 2010 07:23
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Armacham posted:this should only happen if you didn't torque the axle down enough Pretty sure I got it right, using a torque wrench. I'll just be more careful when I go adjust it again tomorrow. Thanks guys. I'll double check the spacers tomorrow too
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Feb 11, 2010 07:32
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Armacham posted:i've actually LOST the entire adjuster assembly before riding dirt, but there were no problems luckily because I had the axle good and tight. I've done this too when not tightening it enough 
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Feb 11, 2010 07:33
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hayden. posted:I've done this too when not tightening it enough yeah i immediately went out and bought nylon locking nuts
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Feb 11, 2010 07:43
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