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bimmian posted:Canoe! That's beautiful, I hope your dad is some sort of professional woodman
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Feb 9, 2010 04:38
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no rain no gain posted:http://www.mcmaster.com/#perforated-metal/=5q1x63 Who would have thought there would be so many choices for perforated metal?
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Feb 9, 2010 08:34
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 Here's the amp circuit, using a slightly heavier speaker than I usually use. A 5 watt 8 ohm speaker, really keeps good bass notes.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:02
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nonentity posted:A 5 watt 8 ohm speaker, really keeps good bass notes. Per the little-gem website, to increase the quality of the low end, replacing the 220uF cap with something a little larger may be a good bet if you can fit it into your enclosure.  I stuffed mine into a speaker box from an old stereo.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:19
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jovial_cynic posted:Per the little-gem website, to increase the quality of the low end, replacing the 220uF cap with something a little larger may be a good bet if you can fit it into your enclosure. Awesome! That's exactly what I was wondering... how big can I go? I have a whole box of harvested capacitors, and some pretty large...
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Feb 9, 2010 16:55
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nonentity posted:Awesome! That's exactly what I was wondering... how big can I go? I'm not sure, really. But as long as you're working from a breadboard, you can just swap them in and out until the quality drops too low. Experiment and record, and let us all know! I'd throw one together, but all of my electronics gear is in storage, so I don't have access to any of my tools or componants. Boo.
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Feb 9, 2010 21:55
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nonentity posted:
from the looks of it I was making this exact circuit last night, while watching.... project runway.... Australia.
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Feb 10, 2010 17:54
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jovial_cynic posted:I'm not sure, really. But as long as you're working from a breadboard, you can just swap them in and out until the quality drops too low. Experiment and record, and let us all know! I found a 5700 uF Cap that really works well on this speaker... I think I'll run with that.
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Feb 10, 2010 18:10
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nonentity posted:I found a 5700 uF Cap that really works well on this speaker... I think I'll run with that. Do you notice a big difference between 5700uF and, for example, 1000uF? I just wonder if there's a practical limit, after which it doesn't really change anything with the tone or quality.
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Feb 10, 2010 21:19
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jovial_cynic posted:Do you notice a big difference between 5700uF and, for example, 1000uF? I just wonder if there's a practical limit, after which it doesn't really change anything with the tone or quality. I did try a 1000uF, and seemed to like the lower notes present in the 5700... I don't have one bigger on hand to try.
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Feb 10, 2010 23:22
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I'm no expert but I've built small headphones amps before and that looks like a coupling capacitor. It creates a high-pass filter to protect the speaker from DC offset. The size of the capacitor will determine the high-pass frequency F = 1/(2 * pi * C * R) where C is the capacitance and R is the resistance of your load. With a 220uF capacitor and an 8 ohm load it looks like the cut-off is at about 90Hz, and with a 5700uF capacitor it is at 3.5Hz. You could possibly omit the capacitor all together if the DC from the output is a few hundred millivolts or less (I'm guessing a speaker that size could handle that much DC offset).
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Feb 10, 2010 23:48
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Here is a relavent tutorial for anyone interested in this topic: http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/soundcard/sennheiser.htm
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Feb 11, 2010 01:10
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That testimonial at the end is great. 
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Feb 11, 2010 01:33
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He should have just had the capacitors standing straight up, then use a hole saw to make a pretty hole in the case, that is just big enough for the cap. In other news, you guys are making me get the itch to break out my soldering iron, haven't made a circuit in ages, unless you count striking arcs.
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Feb 11, 2010 01:39
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Jagtpanther's beautiful work has inspired me to post my own work in progress. I am building a layout in N scale that measures 48"x70". I put my table together using simple 2x4 framework and 3/4" plywood top with (I know it's overkill) 4x4 legs. I then laid a layer of 1" insulating foam and have used 2 layers of the same stuff for the elevated section. I will be using Smooth-It from Woodland Scenics to build up the incline and decline as well as some rock faces along the walls and some other minor rock formations then painting, most likely this weekend. Let me know what you think! Any feedback or ideas would be greatly appreciated. One thing I will be doing is putting a few "Day Out With Thomas" billboards by the station so that I can run a little Thomas the Tank Engine for my little boy. He loves that damned train. And yes, I am a big enough nerd to have a stack of D&D books applying pressure to the freshly glued foam. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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Feb 11, 2010 03:01
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What kind of glue is it that doesn't dissolve foam? I've always wondered what would be best for that.
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Feb 12, 2010 09:03
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JediHampster posted:
But what will you do with the ketchup?
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Feb 12, 2010 09:38
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It's going to be used as the blood to create a horrific railroad accident.
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Feb 12, 2010 09:46
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Woodland Scenics sells a type of glue made specifically for foam, and there are others like Elmer's school glue that are safe but I used Gorilla Glue and it worked fine. I have a bottle of the WS foam glue that I will use for the details and gluing down small bits. The kethup was leftover from lunch the other day. It has been thrown out. I do like the idea of a horrible train wreck scene though.
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Feb 12, 2010 16:00
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Don't limit you self to a standard trainwreck, there are are lots of other possibilities: 1. The train derailment that happened in the late 90's in Baltimore that took down an internet trunk line and crippled the East Cost's throughput was a fun one. (ISP's hookup with railroad companies to run lines alongside the track, because the land rights they have mean you don't have to contend with any local governments or property owners with respect to running cable.) 2. At railcar repair places, workmen have to lift the car off of the trucks and get under them to do work. 3. Catastrophic locomotive failure. 4. Railcar yard switching accidents, where some idiot actually tried to stop an out of control car. (It's happened, actually with in the past year I heard about this) 5. A train hits a bus full to the brim with BABBYS. One of these days I will get my model railroad set up. Probably... when someone who lives in this house keels over, and I get an extra room (I kid, I kid). Edit: Oh, I almost forgot this classic: 
AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Feb 12, 2010 |
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Feb 12, 2010 16:17
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dv6speed posted:Don't limit you self to a standard trainwreck, there are are lots of other possibilities: All good ideas (except the bus loaded with BABBYS...what the hell is wrong with you? j/k) and I do actually intend to build another layout with both a switching yard and maintenance area when I get more room. I was also thinking of having a crew working on burying a railcar beside the track. I have heard of companies burying cars that are destroyed and halfway dug in rather than trying to clean it all up. Don't know if it's true or not, but still amusing none the less.
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Feb 13, 2010 01:45
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Honestly you'd be more likely to see a scene where work men are using cutting torches and or air-carbon arc cutting equipment to rip the car to pieces for the purpose of scraping. In most cases, the railroad company will hire up a crane rigging and trucking company to lift out the damaged car to get rid of the car so they can run their trains. Then you'll hire people to cut it up so you can get rid of it. There was a case at the place I worked at a customer brought a car into us. When we gave them the estimated cost of repairs, they said gently caress you, and then we said well gently caress you too, we are keeping your car. Some of the parts were able to be salvaged, and my company would be able to install it other stuff and charge the customer for the part. The rest of it was cut up during a slow time and taken to the scrap yard literally 1 block away. (I had a hand in that one  )You also better hope the reason your car got hosed up wasn't because you didn't maintain it properly, else the railroad company will send your rear end a very large bill. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 02:07
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Seriously? That's awesome as hell! I was thinking about cutting up a railcar or two for a salvage operation but I cant find any little guys in N scale to set up the scene with. So far all I have in mind is a little town and an industrial yard with a factory and a loading area for my branch.
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Feb 13, 2010 04:48
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A coupe of years back, I picked up a DOD VGS50 effects board from someone in SA Mart. He wasn't sure if it worked, and I was willing to spend the $10 asking price to risk it. As it turned out, it just needed a new AC adapter. Also, the pedals were stomped on hard enough to crack the face of the board and trash the pedal mounts. Being the "fix-it-cheap" kind of person I am when it comes to things like this, I decided to tackle it the only way that makes sense to me. Sheet metal and switches. Before:  The effects were only accessible by spinning the wheel; pedals pretty much did nothing. After:  Yes, I literally took a piece of sheet metal, drilled holes for some switches, and then bolted it straight down onto the effects board. I had to pull the pedals off the board first, of course. Also, the buttons are mounted high on the plate intentionally. The plate is sloped, so if the buttons were mounted any lower, they'd actually dig into the circuit board below them.  Button close-up.  Here's a shot of the bypass wires; I just wired the new switches to the spot on the circuit board where the existing tactile switches are located. There is no significance to the red/black wire. That was the last of my red/black wire, so I had to scavenge the white/black wire from an old 6v AC adapter that I wasn't using anymore. And here's a video of me playing on my newly functional effects board with my electric violin. Nothing fancy; just throwing some sound out. And then my camera batteries died before I was done playing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3Un5dd3jP8 jovial_cynic fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Feb 13, 2010 |
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Feb 13, 2010 06:31
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Jagtpanther posted:.... Haven't been able to spend ages cleaning it up yet, but all the soldering is now finished - so it's down to burnishing and scraping it clean: 
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Feb 15, 2010 13:52
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Jagtpanther posted:Haven't been able to spend ages cleaning it up yet, but all the soldering is now finished - so it's down to burnishing and scraping it clean: Beautiful work! My little boy saw it and started yelling "its Thomas". I have made a little progress on my table. So far I have made some rock formations along the side of the track and the side of one of the raised areas as well as the ravine. I poured plaster to support the underside of the foam used for the incline and decline and then used wadded up paper and plaster cloth to cover it and make the rocky sides of the tracks. I also began painting. The table will be covered with a base coat of regular latex interior house paint. The color I picked is a Ralph Lauren River Rock textured paint in the Adirondack Bark color. It has some sandy grit material in the paint which will help me with my landscaping. The color is kinda dark but I have the Woodland Scenics earth tones color kit and will be going over the rocky parts with a white or other really light color then adding details and dry brushing the rest of the colors I want until I get the effect I'm looking for. Also, sorry for the crappy pics but my camera is kinda old. Suppose I should get a new one instead of blowing my money on trains...  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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Feb 16, 2010 19:04
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Ron Burgundy posted:This is the 'wall of sound'. I started collecting records when I was 15, so i've been going 8 years. These Ikea units don't handle 78's very well so they are elsewhere as are my rarities. Dope. I've been collecting for maybe 8 years too, kinda lost count. I run a lovely automatic toshiba sra100. Looooove your 35mm projector, makes me remember when I was a kid and my parents would check out a 35mm projector from the city library with films and watch them. Holy poo poo that was great. How much do those run and how hard would it be to get into it having pretty much no experience?
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Feb 17, 2010 03:41
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JediHampster posted:Beautiful work! Thanks very much - I think 7mm:ft/O-scale just might be a little too big though, I'm investigating opportunities in 4mm:ft/HO/OO/EM scale - the market is saturated with RTR trains though, so there's not much opportunity for kit building/etc. What era/locale are you building your layout for?
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Feb 17, 2010 11:44
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JediHampster posted:Beautiful work! My little boy saw it and started yelling "its Thomas". I have made a little progress on my table. So far I have made some rock formations along the side of the track and the side of one of the raised areas as well as the ravine. I poured plaster to support the underside of the foam used for the incline and decline and then used wadded up paper and plaster cloth to cover it and make the rocky sides of the tracks. I also began painting. The table will be covered with a base coat of regular latex interior house paint. The color I picked is a Ralph Lauren River Rock textured paint in the Adirondack Bark color. It has some sandy grit material in the paint which will help me with my landscaping. The color is kinda dark but I have the Woodland Scenics earth tones color kit and will be going over the rocky parts with a white or other really light color then adding details and dry brushing the rest of the colors I want until I get the effect I'm looking for. Also, sorry for the crappy pics but my camera is kinda old. Suppose I should get a new one instead of blowing my money on trains... Please stop posting. All I want to do right now is go out and spend 500$ on a train set and everything I need to build one of these. I'm 25 and have no kids yet. Why do I read this drat forum.
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Feb 17, 2010 15:04
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Jagtpanther posted:Thanks very much - I think 7mm:ft/O-scale just might be a little too big though, I'm investigating opportunities in 4mm:ft/HO/OO/EM scale - the market is saturated with RTR trains though, so there's not much opportunity for kit building/etc. You could always get a few models and kitbash em. I have found more than a few kitbashes that looked pretty damned alright, especially switchers. In HO scale you will have more opportunities than you will know what to do with, and even more if you decide to run a DCC layout. As for my layout- I'm going for a small town on a little plateau in a mountain area. There will be trees and ground cover everywhere. I used the Adirondack Bark color wanting to get kind of a red clay soil color like you would find in Tennessee or somewhere in the area. I'm thinking it may have been a little dark but that's ok. I can work with it lol. All my trains are modern (my girlfriend loves steam though and has an old 4-4-0 with some 34' overton passenger cars) and my engine lineup consists of 2 DD40AX Centennials, a SD70M, a SD70ACe, a GP 40 and a GP 38. All but the two GP engines are DCC but can run on my DC layout until I can take the plunge and spend a few hundred on a good DCC system.
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Feb 17, 2010 16:38
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I'm also planning on building another layout based on the Yamagata Shinkansen branch of the Tohoku Shinkansen for my Shinkansen 400 bullet train. That one will be a challenge and a fun project because instead of just having a table with an idea of the area and building it however I want, I'm going to try and get as many pics as I can for a more realistic and natural representation. I had the same plan in mind when I picked up a TGV until I realized that I just don't care about France. Edit: I also have pics of the engines (except the GPs). In order they are: Tsubasa Shinkansen 400, DD40AX Centennial, SD70M, and SD70ACe. All my engines have the same paint and color schemes as the pictures, but with different road numbers except the SD70ACe, that one has the road number UP1989 just like the pic. The significance of this engine with its unique paint scheme and having UP in its road number is that 1989 is the year that the Rio Grande railroad folded into the Union Pacific.  Click here for the full 1296x887 image.  Click here for the full 800x260 image.  Click here for the full 800x309 image.  Click here for the full 1191x480 image. JediHampster fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Feb 17, 2010 |
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Feb 17, 2010 17:30
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MarshallX posted:Please stop posting. All I want to do right now is go out and spend 500$ on a train set and everything I need to build one of these. I'm 25 and have no kids yet. Do it! I'm 27 with 2 kids and it's a great hobby to do by yourself, in a club, or to have for when you have kids. My little boy loves to help, especially when I let him tear stuff up for it or get dirty.
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Feb 17, 2010 18:05
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OK, someone needs to make a model railroad thread. <3 trains.
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Feb 17, 2010 18:39
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dv6speed posted:OK, someone needs to make a model railroad thread. <3 trains. I couldn't agree more! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3268679 Go post your own pics and stories! Out of 100,000 Goons I can't be the only one! JediHampster fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Feb 17, 2010 |
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Feb 17, 2010 19:28
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Inspired by the nixie tube thread I built an Arduino microcontroller! I etched the circuit board and populated it myself. It didn't save me any money over a manufactured Arduino, and cost me a whole bunch of time, but that's okay because I have a lot of that these days! I'll most likely be making into a nixie clock after I am one playing with it.
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Feb 18, 2010 05:08
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I built one of the "Weird Sound Generators" from MFOS. Real simple for a beginner like me. And just as promised it makes weird sounds. It is incredibly addicting!
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Feb 18, 2010 21:42
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therunningman posted:I built one of the "Weird Sound Generators" from MFOS. Real simple for a beginner like me. And just as promised it makes weird sounds. It is incredibly addicting! Did you buy just the pc board? How much did the whole thing set you back?
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Feb 19, 2010 07:14
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I just bought the PCB from MFOS for $15. I bought all the parts from Mouser. I had to buy everything new since I'm just starting. All in all with PCB, components, case, knobs and plugs it set me back about $80.
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Feb 19, 2010 17:15
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Not an Anthem posted:Dope. I've been collecting for maybe 8 years too, kinda lost count. I run a lovely automatic toshiba sra100. Looooove your 35mm projector, makes me remember when I was a kid and my parents would check out a 35mm projector from the city library with films and watch them. Holy poo poo that was great. How much do those run and how hard would it be to get into it having pretty much no experience? It's not a terribly hard thing to get into, this particular projector was a bit more expensive than they usually go for because it is so small, 35mm projectors are normally the size of a large refrigerator. They can be had very cheap or even free if you are in the right place at the right time. Ask old theatres if they have any old projectors for sale, check the classifieds and 35mm collector forums. Some good brands to look for are Simplex/RCA, Cinemeccanica and Philips/Norelco.
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Feb 20, 2010 04:58
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therunningman posted:I built one of the "Weird Sound Generators" from MFOS. Real simple for a beginner like me. And just as promised it makes weird sounds. It is incredibly addicting! I feel like I need one of these for no good reason.
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Feb 22, 2010 23:11
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