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I know I asked this 3 days ago but I think it got lost in the noise: If I were to update my clutch (which I've felt slipping a little), can I get away with the friction plates andthe springs, or do I need to add the clutch plates to that list as well? Not to be impatient, but can anyone help?
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Feb 23, 2010 18:21
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ari.gato posted:I know I asked this 3 days ago but I think it got lost in the noise: Must have missed that one. Is the clutch adjusted correctly? There should be some slack in the bar before it starts to engage. You can get away with just doing frictions, but you won't know until you get into the bike and can examine the steels. I'd just do the full bit, you're already in the bike, it's not that expensive to buy a full clutch kit.
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Feb 23, 2010 18:28
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Besides that rattle from when my roommate dropped it, the clutch seems fine. Awhile back I really had the throttle open on the highway, it seemed to slip just a little. Might have been the oil tho because since I switched to a better quality, it hasn't slipped. I'm just curious as my bike has 40k+ miles on it and I'm trying to keep her going for awhile. Speaking of which, in my hunt to replace my rotors, I stumbled across this gem on eBay. Should I stay away?
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Feb 23, 2010 18:43
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Uh, I'd let someone else find out if those are good or not first.
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Feb 23, 2010 18:55
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ari.gato posted:Besides that rattle from when my roommate dropped it, the clutch seems fine. Awhile back I really had the throttle open on the highway, it seemed to slip just a little. Might have been the oil tho because since I switched to a better quality, it hasn't slipped. I'm just curious as my bike has 40k+ miles on it and I'm trying to keep her going for awhile. I've been immensely curious about the chinese import stuff, but not curious enough to run it on my own bike. I'd love to torture test them though...
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Feb 23, 2010 20:22
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I'm moving from Indiana to San Francisco this summer and would like to have everything in line as far as my motorcycle goes. I have a 2003 SV650 with a slipon and fender eliminator. What do I need to know about registration, laws, etc.? Is it crazy of me to think I could get by with just the bike living in the city? Anything I need to know?
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Feb 23, 2010 21:35
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Moved to the gear thread.
elsanto fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 23, 2010 |
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Feb 23, 2010 21:49
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waptang posted:I'm moving from Indiana to San Francisco this summer and would like to have everything in line as far as my motorcycle goes. I have a 2003 SV650 with a slipon and fender eliminator. What do I need to know about registration, laws, etc.? Is it crazy of me to think I could get by with just the bike living in the city? Anything I need to know? I've lived in the Bay Area for two years with just a bike. Don't be one of those people who "need" a car despite living in a city with one of the best public transit systems and best riding weather in the country. The rest of us will make fun of you behind your back. If your bike is from out of state we've got weird rules on the amount of miles a bike needs to have before it can be brought in and registered. I'd make sure all that stuff is ok before hand, or be prepared to leave your bike running with the back wheel off the ground for a few days to bump up the mileage.
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Feb 23, 2010 22:11
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listen, that's all well and good, but ask yourself a serious question: do you want to save money by shopping at costco or sam's club? Because if you do...
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Feb 23, 2010 22:24
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Because if you do... 
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Feb 23, 2010 22:28
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pr0zac posted:I've lived in the Bay Area for two years with just a bike. Don't be one of those people who "need" a car despite living in a city with one of the best public transit systems and best riding weather in the country. The rest of us will make fun of you behind your back. 7500 miles for bikes/cars, but there's an exception if you're changing your residency.
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Feb 23, 2010 23:04
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:do you want to save money by shopping at costco or sam's club? Because if you do... This is one thing I love about my ST1300. 35 litre pannier x 2 52 litre GIVI topbox People are genuinely surprised at how much stuff I can bring home from the store. Pick up a good set of saddlebags and/or a trunk and you can easily get a good bit of shopping back home safely. Of course, you'll never be able to stuff as much as you could into a car's trunk, but that's just another excuse to go ride. Check out twistedthrottle.com, they have a pretty good selection of stuff that's specific for your bike, and Newenough.com always has good prices on universal luggage.
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Feb 23, 2010 23:14
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Cool, I'll see what I can do infront of my place then, I'm pretty sure I can find a carpark or two around as well for anything bigger. I've got a mate who rides who lives an hour or two up the coast that has a garage / space to use so I'm sure I could use that for anything that takes any longer.
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Feb 23, 2010 23:23
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:listen, that's all well and good, but ask yourself a serious question: Best Online Grocery Delivery in San Fran
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Feb 24, 2010 02:19
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I've got a 95 Honda CBR 600 F3. I recently swapped in a 97 motor with half the mileage. Everything bolted right up and the bike fires up after a couple of cranks, even in reasonably chilly weather (~40F). I replaced the rubber (boots?) between the carbs and the motor since the old ones were dry rotted and it seemed necessary. I also cleaned the carbs, and I've got a sync tool in the mail. With choke on full, it starts and revs just fine, eventually settling into a steady idle. About 30 seconds in, it starts to get a bit hesitant and refuses to rev beyond 2-3000rpm. It seems to make a "wheezing" or "sucking" sound, stuttering when I apply throttle. My question is: Does this sound like a simple carb syncing issue? Did I not clean the carbs as well as I assumed? Or is there more to it?
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Feb 24, 2010 05:36
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blugu64 posted:best part about the KLR 650 stratotanker, you get to bring the beer AND the extra gas
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Feb 24, 2010 08:05
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Aargh posted:How do people go about doing work on your bikes when you don't have a garage? For example I live in a townhouse in inner city Sydney, I park on the street and do not have rear lane access to my backyard. If I want to get the bike into the backyard I'd have to attempt to get it through the front gate, up the stairs (only one or two) to the front door, then wheel it through the house to the backyard. Do I just find a friend who has space I could use (none come to mind as they all live in the inner city too) or just go to a local park and set up shop in the carpark, or just pay someone else to do it? Shoot me a PM, I'm in Newtown as well and have a basement carpark you can service it in.
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Feb 24, 2010 08:56
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TheLarson posted:With choke on full, it starts and revs just fine, eventually settling into a steady idle. About 30 seconds in, it starts to get a bit hesitant and refuses to rev beyond 2-3000rpm. It seems to make a "wheezing" or "sucking" sound, stuttering when I apply throttle. Spray WD-40 on the boots while you're trying to rev it to see if there's any improvement. Failing that, check the air line on your gas tank to make sure it's not plugged.
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Feb 24, 2010 13:29
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is it delivered by fairies? also what's the point of spending money to save money on bulk purchases?
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Feb 24, 2010 22:30
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so the white brothers exhaust on my girlfriends KLX 400r is leaking right where the muffle meets the header. I figure I'll take off the muffler and run some hi temp copper/silicone gasket stuff to fix the leak. Problem is I can't get the slip on to slip OFF. Is there some sort of trick to it that I'm missing? Doesn't have any springs or clamps where the can meets the pipe it appears to be held on solely by the mount and by the gasket.
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Feb 24, 2010 22:33
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:is it delivered by fairies? In a prior post, Pr0zac posted:I've lived in the Bay Area for two years with just a bike. Don't be one of those people who "need" a car despite living in a city with one of the best public transit systems and best riding weather in the country. The rest of us will make fun of you behind your back. Taking a ZipCar to Sam's Club for 2 hours, once a month, and take the bike and/or bicycle and/or bus and/or cable car and/or BART everywhere else, because you live in a city with one of the best public transit systems and best riding weather in the country. $24.16/mo, all inclusive. Versus: Owning a beater car, so you can drive it to Sam's Club once a month, and still take the bike and/or bicycle and/or bus and/or cable car and/or BART everywhere else, because you live in a city with one of the best public transit systems and best riding weather in the country. $130.66/mo for insurance (US average) + gas + maintenance (don't forget to add more $$ because your car sits idle 29 days/mo.) + parking and/or an annual neighborhood parking permit, if you don't get that for free with your housing (*not* a given). Don't forget that if your car is parked on the street and doesn't move for 36 hours in California, your neighbors can call and have it ticketed or towed. If you're shopping at Sam's Club to save money on big purchases, and you can't pocket at least $25/mo. in savings, then you're *certainly* not going to be saving the $130+/mo. that owning a car specifically for that purpose will cost you. If I lived in the center of one of the dense MegaMetros (S.F., Boston, NYC, Inside the Beltway, etc.) you bet your rear end I'd sell my car. Hell, when I lived in rural Oregon I sold my car because I was walking to work, and walking to the store every couple of days, rather than making one great big trip less often. If I lived in San Francisco, I'd just have to break down and buy a Supermoto, though. Have. To. The whole place is like one big urban OHV park.
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Feb 24, 2010 22:52
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If the Chinese can move house with 5 children on a Honda Cub, you can strap 30 lbs of ramen noodles to your SV
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Feb 24, 2010 22:53
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Ola posted:If the Chinese can move house with 5 children on a Honda Cub, you can strap 30 lbs of ramen noodles to your SV the chinese can survive the attrition from these habits.
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Feb 24, 2010 23:12
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Seriously, before the gf came along with her driving patterns I was already mostly carless and would have been completely so soon. The bike, Zipcar/Igo, and public transit would have been fine. This is also in Chicago, where unless you're even nuttier than me you can't ride for 4 months out of the year. It's really not a big deal to do.
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Feb 24, 2010 23:55
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I need to replace my grips. The ones on it now are plastic, rather than rubber. Is there a trick to getting these off? All instructions I've found are for rubber.
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Feb 25, 2010 03:24
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Oakey posted:Seriously, before the gf came along with her driving patterns I was already mostly carless and would have been completely so soon. The bike, Zipcar/Igo, and public transit would have been fine. This is also in Chicago, where unless you're even nuttier than me you can't ride for 4 months out of the year. It's really not a big deal to do. do I come off like someone who goes to costco? I was using it as an example of what not to do. Nobody needs 40 muffins. nobody.
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Feb 25, 2010 03:37
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Does anybody have any recommendations for a wheel balancing/truing stand? I will have to learn how true wheels, and some of these cheaper stands (like the harbor freight model) don't really make sense to me, as to how they work or have enough pieces included to get the job done.
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Feb 25, 2010 05:50
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 Biek problem Backstory: While deployed I had a friend watch my bike and start it every so often to keep it lubed up and whatnot. Well one day it didn't start and he had to jump it. Problem is, he did it straight from his running car instead of letting the motorcycle battery sip off the cars battery. Symptom: Bike will not turn over without charging battery off trickle charger. Electronics act funny. Does the startup procedures such as lighting all lights and needle pegging. Has a rough idle and eventually just shuts off if left to run. Bike: 2007 Sv650 Nekkid
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Feb 25, 2010 09:36
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He nuked the battery. Get a new one.
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Feb 25, 2010 13:55
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I was hoping it was that and not the ECU
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Feb 25, 2010 14:07
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:do I come off like someone who goes to costco? I was using it as an example of what not to do.
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Feb 25, 2010 17:45
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djfooboo posted:
Start with new battery, go from there. Low battery will gently caress things up and cause no end of weird symptoms, and a motorcycle doesn't charge from just running a little bit in the garage, the RPMs need to be up.
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Feb 25, 2010 17:47
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Oil Question! I have a 2003 Suzuki VZ800. Its service manual (and dipstick) calls for 10W40. I have a quantity of Honda four-stroke 10W30 on hand. How much will it gently caress my bike up to use this lighter weight oil?
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Feb 25, 2010 19:14
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It'll be fine. Typically you go with heavier weights in hotter temps and lighter weights in colder temps.
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Feb 25, 2010 19:20
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I recently purchased a Hotbodies undertail kit and apparently it doesn't come with a plate light, hooray for reading product descriptions. I'd like to drill and mount a light on the undertail kit before I install it and was thinking of a white LED. Does anyone have any recommendations on a light and resistor? Are the light and resistor something I can pick up at Radio Shack? I was hoping to install the LED on the same wires as the current stock plate light. Is this possible or is there a better solution? I'd like it to be something I can pick up in town and not order something online.
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Feb 25, 2010 22:24
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Z3n posted:Start with new battery, go from there. Low battery will gently caress things up and cause no end of weird symptoms, and a motorcycle doesn't charge from just running a little bit in the garage, the RPMs need to be up. this is the weird thing about my bike... it does. The voltmeter shows 14.2 (or 14.7, something like that) at idle. I mean there's no reason why it shouldn't, but I always thought bike manufacturers just couldn't be arsed. Italian electrics 
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Feb 25, 2010 23:50
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Linedance posted:this is the weird thing about my bike... it does. The voltmeter shows 14.2 (or 14.7, something like that) at idle. I mean there's no reason why it shouldn't, but I always thought bike manufacturers just couldn't be arsed. Italian electrics It actually depends on the bike. Some have alternators that will allow them to charge at idle, some have powerful enough charging systems to charge at idle, but they tend to be the exception. I know that the SV won't charge at idle, though, so that's why I said that 
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Feb 25, 2010 23:52
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How hard is it to change brake pads on a bike? I've got an 81 Honda CB750 C and the repair manual for it, but when I was looking through it, it seemed somewhat complicated. Also, how do I know what kind of pads to get?
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Feb 26, 2010 05:07
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Mr Yuck posted:How hard is it to change brake pads on a bike? I've got an 81 Honda CB750 C and the repair manual for it, but when I was looking through it, it seemed somewhat complicated. Also, how do I know what kind of pads to get? its usally not that hard. If you have the caliper off I would take the opportunity to grease the pins if it uses a floating caliper. for finding the brake pads that ft, http://www.bikebandit.com/ is a good starting point
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Feb 26, 2010 05:13
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So I got new fuses hoping it'd make my KLR turn back on but no luck. I realized I couldn't actually see any fluid level in my battery. I don't really know how these non-sealed batteries work. Supposedly I fill them up with non-distilled water? Is it okay to use regular and replace with distilled later? edit: It turns out the fluid level was just so high I couldn't see any slosh around, also it says to fill it with acid. So I guess a better question now is: no lights will come on at all, what all should I check besides battery and fuses? hayden. fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Feb 26, 2010 |
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Feb 26, 2010 05:29
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