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hayden. posted:So I got new fuses hoping it'd make my KLR turn back on but no luck. You shouldn't. There's all sorts of minerals and poo poo in regular water that might screw your battery up. It won't blow up in your face of anything if you don't, but you might reduce its life. At the very least, run it through a Britta a bunch of times.
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Feb 26, 2010 05:33
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hayden. posted:So I got new fuses hoping it'd make my KLR turn back on but no luck. Check your power regulator and since you're doing that have a look at your stator. Had my regulator die because my stator was all gummed up and putting strain on the whole system.
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Feb 26, 2010 16:53
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In case it got lost, does anyone know a trick to getting plastic grips off? Just break it apart with a screwdriver? They're cheap, and I don't care if they're destroyed. Also, windshields... I have a '79 GS750. I love it, but wind on the highway is brutal. I want to be able to take it further on the highway than I have. How much of a difference will a windshield make, and is there a big difference when considering size? Do I need one made specifically for my bike, or are UJM windshields generic enough?
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Feb 26, 2010 21:10
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orthod0ks posted:In case it got lost, does anyone know a trick to getting plastic grips off? Just break it apart with a screwdriver? They're cheap, and I don't care if they're destroyed. The throttle grip should slide right off after you unhook it. The left one - just cut it off with a box cutter.
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Feb 26, 2010 21:14
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orthod0ks posted:In case it got lost, does anyone know a trick to getting plastic grips off? Just break it apart with a screwdriver? They're cheap, and I don't care if they're destroyed. There are tons and tons of generic / universal ones on the aftermarket, in any shape, size, tone and mounting config. Here's a place to start: http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-fairings-windscreens/ Now, if you want to be completely sheltered you're going to need a pretty big one or at least one with some aerodynamic trickery that directs the airflow over you. On most upright bikes with windscreens I've tried, all it does is take the airflow that would otherwise be distributed over you body and concentrate it on your helmet, creating instant epilepsy. Another thing is solid leather gear. When I'm in my textiles, the wind can flap me around a bit, but in leathers I'm more planted. That's why cows never complain about wind pressure after all.
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Feb 26, 2010 21:39
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Ola posted:There are tons and tons of generic / universal ones on the aftermarket, in any shape, size, tone and mounting config. Here's a place to start: http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-fairings-windscreens/ So I guess I should just suck it up... do fly screens do anything at all, or just look awesome?
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Feb 26, 2010 22:57
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Apart from catching flies, not much. Some claim they do though, I guess they can help direct the airflow slightly and the result of that might be more comfortable. Imagine how awesome it would be with just one hour in a wind tunnel with a few adjustable screens to try out. I tried a BMW K1200GT once, or maybe it was on the R1200RT, anyway it had an adjustable windscreen. In the top position it would buzz my helmet, in the bottom position the turbulence would push on my helmet from On the autobahn I was comfortable up to about 90 mph, over that I really missed some plexiglas to tuck in behind. Ola fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Feb 26, 2010 |
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Feb 26, 2010 23:30
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I find myself not noticing windshields (or the lack thereof) at all up until around 50mph. Beyond that, it's a mixed bag, if the bike is upright I like the wind directed from my shoulders up, if the bike is more aggressive, then windblast on my chest can be good.
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Feb 26, 2010 23:34
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Ola posted:Apart from catching flies, not much. Some claim they do though, I guess they can help direct the airflow slightly and the result of that might be more comfortable. Interesting. I'll have to spend some more time on it. I haven't logged much highway time at all. A buddy has an old Yamaha with a windshield. I'll see if I can take his for a ride and see how I like it. Thanks for the advice guys. On a separate note, when I put the bike away, I put staybil in the tank and put the battery on a trickle charger. When I take it out, what maintenance should I do before I ride again? It snowed again today, so I'm getting ahead of myself, but I am jonesin to get back on.
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Feb 26, 2010 23:45
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A shot of lube on squeaky parts and the chain. And perhaps an oil change if your previous oil had plenty of miles on it.
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Feb 26, 2010 23:54
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Ola posted:A shot of lube on squeaky parts and the chain. And perhaps an oil change if your previous oil had plenty of miles on it. Cool. I haven't done any maintenance on it myself, but I'd like to start. The oil is pretty fresh. The chain looked a little loose to me, but I don't really know what it should look like. How do I tell if it needs to be replaced, and is this basic enough for a beginner to attempt?
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Feb 27, 2010 00:04
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shipwrek posted:Check your power regulator and since you're doing that have a look at your stator. Had my regulator die because my stator was all gummed up and putting strain on the whole system. Would either of these prevent it turning on at all? I replaced the battery with a brand new one (apparently for nothing) and both fuses today and still nothing. (background: jump started from running car like a retard with no luck) edit: fuses are supposed to be 10A and 20A, I replaced both with a 30A because i was told higher is fine, just not lower edit2: there isn't a pos/neg on fuses is there? hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Feb 27, 2010 |
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Feb 27, 2010 02:58
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hayden. posted:Would either of these prevent it turning on at all? Neither higher nor lower is fine. Put the right fuse in there. Lower will blow before it should, possibly under normal load. Higher will possibly allow damage to whatever device the fuse is supposed to protect. However, if you're just looking to get the bike 'working' you should be fine with the 30A temporarily. There is not a pos/neg on fuses. What are the symptoms? Does the instrument cluster work? Headlight? Everything but the engine? Does your bike have a circuit breaker?
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Feb 27, 2010 03:33
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hayden. posted:Would either of these prevent it turning on at all? Charging, yes; starting/running, no. hayden. posted:edit: fuses are supposed to be 10A and 20A, I replaced both with a 30A because i was told higher is fine, just not lower No, higher-than-stock-rated fuses won't protect the circuit. The wiring/switches become the weak link and will melt before the fuse blows. hayden. posted:edit2: there isn't a pos/neg on fuses is there? No. I'm thinking either the ignition switch or the wiring to it is toast. Got a multimeter and a manual? E: The 20A fuse was the main...are the terminals in the fuseholder intact? Corroded? Dagen H fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Feb 27, 2010 |
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Feb 27, 2010 03:33
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The terminals in the fuse holder are kind of crusty and brown looking. 30A fuses are just temps, but I realized that it had a 30A fuse in there to begin with when I jump started it so it's possible it hosed something up. Symptoms are that no light anywhere comes on. Bump starting didn't work either but I'm not exactly a pro at that, so don't read too much into it. I'm gonna be so pissed if it's something expensive. I hate this loving bike. Even prior to this I was just trying to get it working so I could sell the drat thing. I've spent more in parts on this than the bike originally cost and I've yet to even ride it more than 20 miles in the 4 months I've owned it. no multimeter and no manual and gently caress i just want to throw this thing in a ditch sorry to throw a tantrum but seriously gently caress me edit: i have an extra ignition switch (where the key goes in), should i throw it in and see if that fixes it? hayden. fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Feb 27, 2010 |
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Feb 27, 2010 04:04
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Stop. Deep breath. Okay? Okay. Start by cleaning the fuseholder terminals and make sure they're secure on the fuse. See what happens. Sure, you can try the spare switch. There's a white wire that runs battery + --> fuse --> ignition switch; visually inspect it for damage. Wiring schematic: http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR650-color-wiring-diagram.gif
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Feb 27, 2010 04:29
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Fuse connectors are actually cleaner than I remembered and weren't bad. Wire looked fine where I was able to see it. I took the battery out again to let it charge overnight and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the help even if I'm being childish.
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Feb 27, 2010 04:58
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S'alright. Sometimes you get frustrated, and that's the time to step away from the bike, do something else. Come back later with fresh eyes, and you can see stuff you simply missed because you've been staring at the drat bike for too loving long.
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Feb 27, 2010 05:04
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hayden. posted:Would either of these prevent it turning on at all? On my bike I got absolutely nothing when the regulator died. It was running one minute, died, then nothing. No lights, horn, indicators, not a sausage. Don't get frustrated as Z3n says; just step away and come back in a better frame of mind.
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Feb 27, 2010 06:06
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So I guess I need a multimeter? Then I start poking it at wires to see where the bad link is? http://www.amazon.com/Palm-Size-Handheld-Digital-Multimeter-DT830B/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1267285359&sr=1-4 Will this work?
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Feb 27, 2010 16:42
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hayden. posted:So I guess I need a multimeter? Then I start poking it at wires to see where the bad link is? Yeah, diagnosing electrical problems without a multimeter is like going spelunking without a light.
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Feb 27, 2010 16:42
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hayden. posted:So I guess I need a multimeter? Then I start poking it at wires to see where the bad link is? It will, but you can get a multimeter at any home improvement store, Sears, Radio Shack, etc. They are cheap these days everywhere.
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Feb 27, 2010 18:28
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I just ordered some decals from downat70 and was wondering if anyone has experience with them. I got them in today before I finished painting my tank and having never put them on, I'm not sure what the best technique would be. Is it a dumb idea to put them on before I put my clear coat top layer on so that the stickers would have a tiny layer of protection? Or should I just stick them on after I'm done painting.
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Feb 27, 2010 23:10
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What would cause a cylinder to fire eradically when it's cold? For example, this is my starting procedure on my 1980 GS400: Prime carbs, choke on, no throttle, hit starter. Bang it starts up instantly and ildes up to about 1500, then in a matter of seconds slows down to under 800 RPM and stalls. I start it up again and it rises up to 1500, drops down and does the same thing. The right exhaust is a lot colder than the left. Applying throttle changes the engine note dramatically, but doesn't really raise the RPM unless I'm really careful with it. If I push and pull the choke in a bit when it's idling, sometimes I can hear the right cylinder catch and it'll rev right up, then it'll come back down again. The pilot screws are both 100% clean, and I've experimented with the positions. Right now they're 2/2.5 turns out. The carbs were synced to the best I could with pulling a plug each and setting the idle to be even, and I sprayed the crap out of the choke tubes and pilot circuits with carb cleaner. Once it's warm it runs like a champ. I can only think that it's either got an air leak in the right which is making it run really lean, or the choke circuit is still gunky and it needs a dip. I'm not missing something obvious am I?
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Feb 27, 2010 23:24
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MrZig posted:Prime carbs, choke on, no throttle, hit starter. Bang it starts up instantly and ildes up to about 1500, then in a matter of seconds slows down to under 800 RPM and stalls. I start it up again and it rises up to 1500, drops down and does the same thing. The right exhaust is a lot colder than the left. Applying throttle changes the engine note dramatically, but doesn't really raise the RPM unless I'm really careful with it. This makes me think it's not firing on that cylinder very well. Are you getting spark?
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Feb 28, 2010 00:07
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Whiteboy posted:I just ordered some decals from downat70 and was wondering if anyone has experience with them. I got them in today before I finished painting my tank and having never put them on, I'm not sure what the best technique would be. Is it a dumb idea to put them on before I put my clear coat top layer on so that the stickers would have a tiny layer of protection? Or should I just stick them on after I'm done painting. If they are clear coat safe, I'd put them on before clearing. Hopefully you haven't touched the decal surface with bare hands.
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Feb 28, 2010 00:25
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Doctor Zero posted:This makes me think it's not firing on that cylinder very well. Are you getting spark? Brilliant blue spark out of both coils. If I modulate the throttle enough, I can hear when it 'catches' and then it takes off. Definitely not firing well when cold.
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Feb 28, 2010 00:59
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MrZig posted:Brilliant blue spark out of both coils. If I modulate the throttle enough, I can hear when it 'catches' and then it takes off. Definitely not firing well when cold. my old bandit 250 used to drop a cylinder in the cold/wet because the ht leads insulation had broken down and condensation on it allowed the spark to ground out instead of firing the plug. at higher rpm/warmer temps it worked fine.
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Feb 28, 2010 01:46
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This Bandit 400 of mine is giving me fits. This is not nearly the first bike I've resurrected from the dead, but it is the most frustrating so far. This thing refuses to run properly. I'll start it up and it will idle for a few seconds perfectly normal then die. After that, no amount of cranking will get the sumbitch to fire again. You have to leave it alone for a few hours and then go back to it (this happened last night on a date, not so cool getting a ride home from said date with helmet in hand and dumb look on face). If however you do get it to start sometimes it runs perfectly for a little then will lose a cylinder. Maybe #1, maybe #2 or #4. Why? Who knows. The plugs look ok, the leads are sparking if unplugged from the dead cylinder when it's running. What the christ. The carbs are clean and the idle screws are 1.5 turns out on each. Plugs look ok, if a bit dark though I've only ridden it maybe 10 miles since I bought it. Fuel is fresh though I do have an inline filter on it right now just to see if the tank is dirty (so far the filter has nothing in it). Can't think of what else to add to this. I really don't know what is the deal with this little bastard. I had an easier time getting my CB350 running after it had been sitting since 1983. Or my '68 Triumph that had the float bowls eaten away from the stale gas sitting for so long. This thing has me stumped. I've dicked around with it a little every weekend but haven't put a ton of effort into it. After riding it around the block I've come to the conclusion that my long legs and ape arms are not going to work well with a bike designed for the Japanese market. I was planning on getting it running well then selling it in the spring. So far it's been thwarting my efforts. Both of my bikes are being pains this week. I was out of town for a week and a half and the battery poo poo out on my GS too. After getting back from a week in the frozen Northeast all I want to do is go for a ride dammit!
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Feb 28, 2010 02:01
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I've noticed on my Hornet that when I let the clutch out in neutral, I can feel and hear what I presume is stuff spinning in the gearbox. Is this normal? Also, I can sometimes hear a tinking noise under acceleration, haven't figured out what that is yet, whether it's the bike itself or stuff being thrown off the rear tyre and hitting underneath the seat. I hope it's not detonation? Bike manual says it only needs 91 RON, so I just use regular unleaded.
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Feb 28, 2010 05:35
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Stuff will spin around in the trans when you let the clutch out even in neutral. That's pretty normal. The noise you hear could be detonation. Try a tank of higher octane next time and see if it goes away. My bike will ping sometimes when it gets hot out.
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Feb 28, 2010 07:09
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Bugdrvr posted:This Bandit 400 of mine is giving me fits. This is not nearly the first bike I've resurrected from the dead, but it is the most frustrating so far. Sounds like an electrical issue. I hate throwing parts at poo poo, but are ECUs available? Intermittant cutouts are a bitch. Have you checked the wiring harness? Maybe an intermittent short? Do you have fresh gas in it?
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Feb 28, 2010 07:12
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The fuel is fresh, maybe two weeks old. I bought the tank off of ebay and it was bone dry when I got it. The swapping of ECU dealies is a good idea. I might try swapping the ICM with my GS. I noticed a while ago they look identical, the part numbers are only a few off and the plugs are exactly the same as well as the wiring colors. I'm guessing it should either run or blow something up. I'll update tomorrow if I survive the test ride...
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Feb 28, 2010 07:28
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Oh yeah...random again, but have you bench tested that the carbs aren't leaking? Also, what's the coil -> wire arrangment? Could one of your coils be failing? Can you swap the coils around and see if the problem moves cylinders? I'd try that before I tried swapping ECUs.
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Feb 28, 2010 08:07
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Bugdrvr posted:This Bandit 400 of mine is giving me fits. This is not nearly the first bike I've resurrected from the dead, but it is the most frustrating so far. I have a vague memory of reading something about this back when I was looking into Bandit 400s years ago. I can't remember where or what I read but I'll try to google-fu it. I think there's something to do with the carbs on that bike but I can't think what it is. edit- can't find it, internet wayback machine for bandit alley doesn't find it either. If memory serves (and it usually doesn't) I vaguely recall something about the carbs being very tiny on the 400, small bowls or something, and fuel leaks into them?? somehow from somewhere?? But I don't know if this relates to your problems. Always helpful, as usual 
Finger Prince fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Feb 28, 2010 |
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Feb 28, 2010 10:33
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the electrolytic capacitors on the b400 ecus are known to fail, its tricky but they can be replaced, is yours a vvt(red engine top) model or a normal one? I have an ecu from a vvt lying around if you want it. i may also be able to find a gsxr400 ecu which should drop in. Also the orings on the pilot screws in the carbs tend to go, and they are really hard to find these days.
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Feb 28, 2010 13:58
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Thanks for the advice, this give me something more to think about. The floats in these carbs also have some sort of crossover tube that goes...somewhere. I can't remember right now. I bet if the o rings are leaking then maybe extra fuel is going places it shouldn't. I'll have to investigate that further. The rings did look like they were in pretty good shape when I had them open, plus I always massage a bit of high vac grease into them as it is super chemical resistant and makes the o rings pliable again. The caps dying in the ECU is definitely another good idea. I had to replace all of the caps in the cluster of my GS as all of the farads must have escaped causing my tach needle to hang at 2500 then shoot up to whatever. I'll pull it apart today and see if they look like they've been leaking. If they are, there's a cool electronics component store nearby that I like to visit anyway. I doubt new ones would cost more than a few bucks. Unfortunately I have the non VVT engine. I was all excited to poke around the VVT stuff when I was doing the valve adjustment but when I pulled the cover it was just cams and rockers in there.
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Feb 28, 2010 18:18
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Busted a fork seal on the SMC  It's not pissing out fluid but it seems to have a fairly steady weep. Worst part is the dealer can't fit me in until friday and they'll charge me £~100 for the pleasure (about $170 US). I'm pretty much set on doing it myself now; I have a basic but well thought out tool kit (I'm a technician by trade). There's a couple of awesome how-tos on youtube for my style of forks. I have another problem, the dealer only has one fork seal. My experience as a technician and service engineer tells me to replace both at the same time, so they are not mismatched in any way. Is it going to be a problem if I only service one fork?
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Feb 28, 2010 18:55
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It's not ideal but it'll be fine. Fork seals are there to keep oil in, as long as they're doing that they're ok.
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Feb 28, 2010 20:28
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ReelBigLizard posted:Busted a fork seal on the SMC If it's leaking because it's old, yeah i'd replace both. I really wouldn't see a problem if the other one was just fine though, it would be one of those "Well, since i'm here..." deals, I think. I've got my own question though! Is there a special way of cleaning the top of the Combustion chamber, where the valves are? I used Seafoam and a Brass brush on the pistons, would that work here as well or would I risk scratching something? Is there another cleaner besides Seafoam that would work? 
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Feb 28, 2010 20:31
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