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I already asked this question in the "what did you do to your bike?" thread, but here it is: on my Ninja 500R rust spots have recently appeared on the exhaust pipes. How do I battle them?
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Mar 5, 2010 00:11
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| # ? May 16, 2024 02:13 |
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Bah, I safety wired my dirtbikes grips with a friends help but I don't think I want to do it to my street bike. I caved and picked up some grip glue earlier today anyway.
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Mar 5, 2010 00:21
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the walkin dude posted:I already asked this question in the "what did you do to your bike?" thread, but here it is: on my Ninja 500R rust spots have recently appeared on the exhaust pipes. How do I battle them? Do you have a pic of the affected area?
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Mar 5, 2010 00:56
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hayden. posted:Time for the KLR 650 problem of the week: I had the same issue.. It ran fine under 1/4th and above throttle, anything less and it'd die, which includes when you clutch in at a stoplight. Good times. You'll want to take the carb out and clean it out a bit.
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Mar 5, 2010 01:16
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It's not uncommon for grips to have safety wire channels in them.
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Mar 5, 2010 01:38
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Fantastipotamus posted:Sounds like a problem I had with my KLR, where the carb idle/low speed circuit was clogged. Had it been sitting for a while so the gas might have gone bad? Thanks for the help. It had bad gas when I first got it, and though it's fresher now, I guess some of the bad gas gummed up the carb.
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Mar 5, 2010 02:03
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n8r posted:On a street bike where you aren't hanging onto the bars and going WOT all the time Speak for yourself
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Mar 5, 2010 02:31
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hayden. posted:Thanks for the help. It had bad gas when I first got it, and though it's fresher now, I guess some of the bad gas gummed up the carb.
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Mar 5, 2010 03:47
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Tipped posted:So something odd is happening with the beemer. When I ride in the cold the turn signal kill switch stops working. Every other button works on the bike. I'm having a very similar problem with my Shadow. I think it's a problem with the turn signal switch itself. Not sure how similar the setup is to your beemer though. I haven't found the time to pull open the switch yet, so I can't really say exactly what the problem is.
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Mar 5, 2010 04:02
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My bike has been sitting in my garage for a good 3 months now. Do I need to drain the fuel and put fresh fuel in before riding it, or will it be okay to go? How long before gasoline goes bad?
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Mar 5, 2010 17:35
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M.C. McMic posted:My bike has been sitting in my garage for a good 3 months now. Do I need to drain the fuel and put fresh fuel in before riding it, or will it be okay to go? How long before gasoline goes bad? Probably a good call. May need the carbs cleaned too, but you may as well give it a shot with fresh gas first.
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Mar 5, 2010 18:00
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Unless the gas sold in your area is really ridiculously bad, just go ride it. It's gas, not milk.
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Mar 5, 2010 18:32
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M.C. McMic posted:My bike has been sitting in my garage for a good 3 months now. Do I need to drain the fuel and put fresh fuel in before riding it, or will it be okay to go? How long before gasoline goes bad? 3 months isn't too bad. You'll probably be fine. If you didn't put Sta-bil in it, the damage (if any) is already done, though. Carbs won't like it much since that gas has been sitting in them turning to varnish. EFI will probably be fine (I think - someone can correct me if I'm wrong). If the bike continues to run rough after you ride it a while, you can dump some Seafoam in it. If it doesn't run poorly, don't sweat it - just use Sta-bil next time it might sit for a while.
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Mar 5, 2010 18:49
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Doctor Zero posted:If the bike continues to run rough after you ride it a while, you can dump some Seafoam in it. If it doesn't run poorly, don't sweat it - just use Sta-bil next time it might sit for a while. 1) It's a personal preference. Most posters seemed to initially pick one or the other based on recommendations from people they knew, like we all know Doctor Zero. 2) I didn't find anyone who went in with scientific method and an open mind and *tried* the other product, then said, "It didn't work, I had to dump the gas and get fresh. gently caress Product X, I'm going back to Product Y!" Mostly I heard "Old habits are hard to break, so I'll stick with what I know." (curiously, it doesn't seem to matter which product the poster was using, they were reluctant to try 'the other one'.) That said, for me, since they both clear the "doing what they're supposed to do" bar, I don't care which one is better. Buying one can of Seafoam and using it for double duty as a cleaner and stabilizer is cheaper than buying a can of each. Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 19:22
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I like Seafoam purely for the multitasking abilities. Jabs is right, why spend extra money on two things when one can do both?
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Mar 5, 2010 19:29
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Also Seafoam has a totally sweet, completely unrelated to its use, name.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:36
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Jabs posted:That said, for me, since they both clear the "doing what they're supposed to do" bar, I don't care which one is better. Buying one can of Seafoam and using it for double duty as a cleaner and stabilizer is cheaper than buying a can of each. Huh. I didn't know this. I was using both because I had used Sta-bil in gas cans in for boats and stuff we don't use that much. I just knew about Seafoam from these threads. You can be sure I'll just stick to Seafoam from now on(I swear that poo poo is miracle juice!) (read the can? Pfffff.) 
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Mar 5, 2010 19:38
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Doctor Zero posted:Huh. I didn't know this. I was using both because I had used Sta-bil in gas cans in for boats and stuff we don't use that much. I just knew about Seafoam from these threads.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:50
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pr0zac posted:Also Seafoam has a totally sweet, completely unrelated to its use, name. Wait, I thought it was developed to be used on marine engines that are out in the middle of the ocean. The idea being this magic stuff would clear out the engine on your submarine in the middle of the Atlantic without a rebuild.
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Mar 5, 2010 21:32
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So I got pictures of my Ninja 500R's rusty exhaust pipe (both pipes of the dual-exhaust system are like that), along with my exhaust cans. Someone asked for a picture, does anyone have advice on fighting the rust?  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Mar 5, 2010 22:22
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Yank it off, scrub the crap out of it, flat black heat paint + heat wrap = badass
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Mar 5, 2010 22:23
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heat wrap = rust
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Mar 6, 2010 00:15
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Heat wrap only looks good in a very small few applications. Putting it on your 500 ninja is just going to look goony as hell. Clean the pipes and paint them up.
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Mar 6, 2010 00:19
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So the riding in Anchorage sucks during the winter, and every spring I really start getting the bug. I have a Maui vacation coming up in a couple weeks and renting a bike while I'm down there is a big priority. I'm a fairly experienced sport bike rider, but the only place on the island that supposedly rented Ducati and Buell bikes appears to have closed down recently. I've reserved a Sportster 883 from a Harley outfit, but it's been seven years since I've been on a cruiser and that was only while tooling around a parking lot during my MSF class. Anybody have any tips for making the quick sport bike to cruiser transition? Obviously I won't be riding as aggressively as I would on my Speed Triple and will be taking it easy until I feel comfortable. What I'm mainly concerned about is the difference in posture and the braking/turning capabilities causing me trouble on those windy roads and in the towns. Also, if anyone has every ridden in Maui and has any trip or route suggestions that would be cool. 
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Mar 6, 2010 00:23
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Paddyo posted:Also, if anyone has every ridden in Maui and has any trip or route suggestions that would be cool. There's only one answer to this: the road to Hana. Or just take a day and ride around the entire island. Even in a rental car it's fun!
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Mar 6, 2010 00:51
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I think the biggest difference is that it's harder to hide your erection on a cruiser. When you approach a turn you aren't sure about, lean forward over the bike, as if it were a sport bike. Be careful about trying to stand to shift your weight, or for any other reason, because you'll have to pull on the handlebars to do it. If you have to stop, full engage the rear brake, then engage the front brake, smoothly, to transfer weight forward, and ease up on the rear brake, as you continue braking. Don't downshift in a rainstorm on a hill in the dark by a truck. If a black cat gets caught in your carbs, rub witchhazel on the seat.
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Mar 6, 2010 00:52
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Spiffness posted:Yank it off, scrub the crap out of it, flat black heat paint + heat wrap = badass This. I did this with my exhaust system. I bought one all rusty and broken for $100. sanded the rust off, cleaned it, put a high temp flat black on it, cured it, then heat wrapped it, then silicon sprayed the wrap. I don't think you'll have rust problems if you do it that way.
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Mar 6, 2010 01:16
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the walkin dude posted:So I got pictures of my Ninja 500R's rusty exhaust pipe (both pipes of the dual-exhaust system are like that), along with my exhaust cans. Someone asked for a picture, does anyone have advice on fighting the rust? For the pipe itself, I'd just sand then paint. But for the can, you might try some oil with the finest Steel wool you can find. Just real, real gentle. It's what I did to remove some rust from my gun so it might not work, but it's an idea. Moved from the talky thread: So I bought my Second Motorcycle. The guy next to where I work was getting rid of it for $60 and I grabbed it. It came with Most of an engine, 2 broken radiators, a broken carb featuring a visit from Miss Black Widow and some...Bits and pieces! Question is, what is it? It's a Dirtbike, water cooled, Kickstart, Single cylinder, drum brakes front and rear, either 125 or 250cc and has a Plastic fuel tank. I'm not sure if it's Four or two stroke either.  I am in for so much fun with this thing. Edit: Pretty sure it's a YZ125. It might be a 250 but I doubt it, the piston seems kinda small for it. And it's from 1986 or earlier, from the pictures Yamaha went to a Disk brake in the front in 1987. So cool! Chairon fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Mar 6, 2010 |
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Mar 6, 2010 03:56
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niethan posted:actively try to kill you  Jack the Smack posted:There are tons Ducatis. Are you trying to ask how riding a sport bike, super bike, or hyper sport would be like on city streets? Thanks for the replies. Again, this is not for me. I'm not suicidal enough to ride a Superbike (hell, it was a bit unsettling just sitting on one in the showroom when I went to Waco the other day -- I didn't realize from pictures how horizontal you are on a big sportbike*). Though there was an adorable little cafe-racer Ducati that I could actually climb onto without hiring a team of sherpas ... (apparently a SportClassic, though it had a different seat/tail than I've been able to find on their website.) Maybe for the midlife crisis after I've been on a Bonnie for a couple decades. Edit: *Using the generic term because the Speed Triple and the few literbikes I've seen up-close all seem to be of a similar size as the 1098. Except the Hayabusa, which looks a lot lower -- I guess that explains the aero advantage. Also, that dealership in Waco sold Triumph (the reason we stopped there, InediblePenguin wants a Scrambler as soon as she takes the MSF) and Victory as well as Ducati. Rather odd lineup, those three. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 6, 2010 |
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Mar 6, 2010 04:01
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Is there any chance of me getting my hands on a Honda FTR223 in the US?
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Mar 6, 2010 04:51
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dwoloz posted:Is there any chance of me getting my hands on a Honda FTR223 in the US? Nope. Maybe if you found someone in Japan willing to send it to a piece at a time. Try to import the whole bike and customs will sieze it. I'm not 100% sure the send it back a piece at a time ploy will work these days.
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Mar 6, 2010 05:21
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Spiffness posted:Yank it off, scrub the crap out of it, flat black heat paint + heat wrap = badass Phat_Albert posted:Clean the pipes and paint them up. Chairon posted:For the pipe itself, I'd just sand then paint. ari.gato posted:This. I did this with my exhaust system. I bought one all rusty and broken for $100. sanded the rust off, cleaned it, put a high temp flat black on it, cured it, then heat wrapped it, then silicon sprayed the wrap. I don't think you'll have rust problems if you do it that way. Mine isn't as rusty as the walkin dude's, but I was going to tackle painting it this spring. Any tips on what paint to use? I wasn't thinking of wrapping it, so do I need a clear coat on it? I saw a site that sold exhaust paint and it recommended a clear coat. Would it be okay to cure it on the bike (run the bike until the exhaust gets hot)? Also, the chrome that's left will sand off, right? Also, I have a small hole on each tube. I was thinking of finding something like this to patch it up. Should it go on before or after the paint?
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Mar 6, 2010 06:32
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Alright I still can't find the problem. My gas warning light is stuck on, on my 2003 gsxr 600 and I can't figure out why. When I took off the gas tank my dad tested the sensor inside and it worked fine. When I turned on the bike to check the gauges it wasn't lit. But when I plug everything back in the light pops back on. I have checked the gauges (I have two, both light up), the gas is full, the sensor inside the tank was working when we tested it and nothing seems to be wrong. Is there a wire that could of shorted out somewhere or anything like that? Edit: The books says to locate some resistors to check. I can't for the life of me find those either. Whiteboy fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Mar 6, 2010 |
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Mar 6, 2010 07:14
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dwoloz posted:Is there any chance of me getting my hands on a Honda FTR223 in the US? Ask yourself two questions: 1) Is the bike in question quirky or different? 2) Is the bike in question a Harley look-alike or a sportbike over 599cc? If the answers are yes, and no, then we dont get it here.
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Mar 6, 2010 07:19
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Phat_Albert posted:Ask yourself two questions: 1) Is the bike in question quirky or different? 2) Is the bike in question a Harley look-alike or a sportbike over 599cc? TW 200
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Mar 6, 2010 07:37
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Thats basically the one exception to the rule.
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Mar 6, 2010 08:04
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Thanks for y'all's replies - I'll be taking the exhaust system off, sanding it down and laying down heat-resistant paint. I'll try Chairon's idea. It should last until next winter, right? ari.gato posted:This. I did this with my exhaust system. I bought one all rusty and broken for $100. sanded the rust off, cleaned it, put a high temp flat black on it, cured it, then heat wrapped it, then silicon sprayed the wrap. I don't think you'll have rust problems if you do it that way. What is involved in curing? Also, would I be better off getting 2 new exhaust cans? Is my attempt to fight rust on my cans futile and would only doom me to eternal scrubbage?
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Mar 6, 2010 08:19
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Phat_Albert posted:Thats basically the one exception to the rule. DN 01
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Mar 6, 2010 08:39
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Phat_Albert posted:Ask yourself two questions: 1) Is the bike in question quirky or different? 2) Is the bike in question a Harley look-alike or a sportbike over 599cc? hayden. posted:DN 01 DN 01 is a scooter.
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Mar 6, 2010 09:57
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the walkin dude posted:Thanks for y'all's replies - I'll be taking the exhaust system off, sanding it down and laying down heat-resistant paint. I'll try Chairon's idea. It should last until next winter, right? Curing(In this instance) is just heating then cooling. You would get it all painted, hook it up, get it up to temp and leave it there, nice and hot for a bit, let it cool down, do it again and repeat this for whatever the paint says. It's an important step, without it the paint would start flaking off.
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Mar 6, 2010 17:08
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